Lowering on mag ride

[s5joe]

I have seen a few posts about having the mag ride re calibrated after fitting lowering springs i do have vcds or is it a dealer job

 

[DJAlix]

I have seen a few posts about having the mag ride re calibrated after fitting lowering springs i do have vcds or is it a dealer job

Cannot be done via VCDS and alike. I offer this service if you can visit me in North London.

 

[8YARWY]

Cannot be done via VCDS and alike. I offer this service if you can visit me in North London.

I can Highly recommend Alex.

Such a helpful guy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[s5joe]

Cannot be done via VCDS and alike. I offer this service if you can visit me in North London.

I would say yer but i am in Liverpool is it a must

 

[DJAlix]

I would say yer but i am in Liverpool is it a must

I have customers travel from all over Europe. Have an Italian RS3 in at the moment

Is it a must? No, that’s up to you and how much you like your “boobs” or “moobs” shaking while driving If they are shaking too much, if you have lost difference between drive select modes, if you are experiencing pogo’ing in the rear or if you track your car then you need to get the calibration done as the amount of power supplied to your dampers is calculated based on your vehicles resting hight, which has now been massively offset some 15 to 25mm. A discrepancy of 3 to 5mm is enough to throw the system out. A number of safety systems also use this measurement as their reference point, nothing that will make your vehicle dangerous to drive tho. An example would be when on track, measurements are continual and with a large offset the vehicle will think its gonna come off its dampers and throttle back the engine to compensate etc etc.

 

[Speedychuck]

I’ve been looking at this myself. There’s a long thread somewhere where Djalix is investigating it... resulting in a bit of a row with someone with more front than Blackpool!

I was going to lower mine and then remove springs for servicing or warranty work. Was hoping I could change coding with vcds but sadly not, so not sure I will lower now.

Out of curiosity djAlix (not that I’m trying to do you out of any work) how are the height measurements taken? Is it the same as the older system on the a4 with a lever/arm on the suspension? Maybe if someone made adjustable length rods for the linkage, you could return the readings to the factory level after lowering to maintain the same damper performance.

of course, your way is the correct and best way to do it. Just from an engineering perspective it seems another solution. To me, downside would be it would put the headlight aim out- most of these lowering kits seem to lower more at the front than the rear, so tricking the car into actually thinking it’s level would end up with the headlights pointing downwards.

Interesting concept perhaps. Maybe they should sell modified arms with lowering springs?

 

[DJAlix]

I’ve been looking at this myself. There’s a long thread somewhere where Djalix is investigating it... resulting in a bit of a row with someone with more front than Blackpool!

I was going to lower mine and then remove springs for servicing or warranty work. Was hoping I could change coding with vcds but sadly not, so not sure I will lower now.

Out of curiosity djAlix (not that I’m trying to do you out of any work) how are the height measurements taken? Is it the same as the older system on the a4 with a lever/arm on the suspension? Maybe if someone made adjustable length rods for the linkage, you could return the readings to the factory level after lowering to maintain the same damper performance.

of course, your way is the correct and best way to do it. Just from an engineering perspective it seems another solution. To me, downside would be it would put the headlight aim out- most of these lowering kits seem to lower more at the front than the rear, so tricking the car into actually thinking it’s level would end up with the headlights pointing downwards.

Interesting concept perhaps. Maybe they should sell modified arms with lowering springs?

That was actually a different discussion, that particular “self entitled” gentleman wanted to remove his magride rather than recalibrate it, which is massively different.

While the vehicles magride control module poles the related sensors for live measurements etc, all the calculations are based on a fixed calibration figure produced by the calibration. No mechanical solution can adapt this function.

calibration measurement method has been stated before:

Centre cap diameter / 2 + distance top of centre cap to edge of wheel arch

 

[123Quattro]

@DJAlix: Is this calibration a software fix, or a mater or some mechanical adjustments? Is there any way this can be done by an individual at home?

 

[DJAlix]

@DJAlix: Is this calibration a software fix, or a mater or some mechanical adjustments? Is there any way this can be done by an individual at home?

This is a software based calibration which can only be completed by the genuine / official VW group service tool.

 

[123Quattro]

Thanks for the clarification

 

[Speedychuck]

That was actually a different discussion, that particular “self entitled” gentleman wanted to remove his magride rather than recalibrate it, which is massively different.

While the vehicles magride control module poles the related sensors for live measurements etc, all the calculations are based on a fixed calibration figure produced by the calibration. No mechanical solution can adapt this function.

calibration measurement method has been stated before:

Centre cap diameter / 2 + distance top of centre cap to edge of wheel arch

I understand that mag ride settings are all calculations from given sensors, but let me explain further and see what you think.

let’s say the standard setting of the car is 315mm from the centre of the wheel to the top of the arch. You lower the car, and the car then sees a reading of 295mm. So you fit an adjustable length rod to the height sensor and adjust the sensor back to 315mm where it originally was. The car has a new zero and adjusts damping accordingly.

you’ve basically recalibrated the sensor physically instead of electronically.

Of course it depends on what other systems are affected... But in theory, I see no reason why this wouldn’t have the same affect as recalibration electronically.

 

[DJAlix]

I understand that mag ride settings are all calculations from given sensors, but let me explain further and see what you think.

let’s say the standard setting of the car is 315mm from the centre of the wheel to the top of the arch. You lower the car, and the car then sees a reading of 295mm. So you fit an adjustable length rod to the height sensor and adjust the sensor back to 315mm where it originally was. The car has a new zero and adjusts damping accordingly.

you’ve basically recalibrated the sensor physically instead of electronically.

Of course it depends on what other systems are affected... But in theory, I see no reason why this wouldn’t have the same affect as recalibration electronically.

Could work I guess but.... holy over-engineering batman! Just visit someone like myself and get it done correctly and without the weeks of math. fabrication and testing.

One possible issue with the above could be that the level sensors only have x-amount of play / movement and off-setting them would restrict their total possible range.... maybe.... Each to their own but I cannot see why anyone would want to go to these lengths as Audi asks around £120.00, most 3rd parties £85.00 and myself £65.00 for the procedure.

 

[Speedychuck]

The biggest negative for me is Audi voiding my warranty for the suspension because I’ve lowered the car. If I could have come up with a solution which was easily reversible, it would Mean I could switch back.

I take your point though, your way is certainly the right way to go about it. In reality the sensor position would be more likely to meet its limit by not adjusting the rods though. Lowering the car will move it further toward its end stop. Adjusting the rod would keep the sensor in its original position