having already done the big turbo, my thirst for more torque and flexibility continues - BIG CAPACITY to add to the BIG TURBO
there is lots of disinformation about 1.8t tuning out there so i have been doing lots of research.
here is the basic info where your engine starts from:
blocks - all the transverse 1.8t blocks (06B engine) are basically the same - the different engine numbers have slightly different studs on them for turbo and non-turbo versions but are the same strength despite rumours to the contrary.
rods - some earlier engines use 20mm wrist pins on the conrods - these are probably stronger than the later 19mm pinned ones and are good for about 360-380 lb/ft
later 19mm rods are reliable for 350-360 lb/ft
cranks - 210 and 225 hp engines appear to use a forged crank and this is probably good for as much torque as you can get out of an engine using this stroke crank.
other 1.8t engines seem to have a cast crank but again this seems to be OK for at least 350lb/ft so the big turbo can go on any stock 1.8t upto about 350lb/ft or 360-370hp
heads - some early heads (not 210 or 225 and pre-vvt) have larger inlet ports - this is better for top end breathing and big hp numbers but loses low down torque and drivability - the castings are interchangable so you can put a large port head on any block and add the vvt cams from a 210 or 225 engine - this will give you more top end hp but a lot less torque (maybe 15lb/ft) off boost at the bottom end.
valve - the standard valves seem to be safe to about 7000 to 7200rpm generally- there have been reports of dropped valves with prolonged revving (ie track racing) above 7000rpm and are quite likely to break above 8000rpm anyway
there is lots of disinformation about 1.8t tuning out there so i have been doing lots of research.
here is the basic info where your engine starts from:
blocks - all the transverse 1.8t blocks (06B engine) are basically the same - the different engine numbers have slightly different studs on them for turbo and non-turbo versions but are the same strength despite rumours to the contrary.
rods - some earlier engines use 20mm wrist pins on the conrods - these are probably stronger than the later 19mm pinned ones and are good for about 360-380 lb/ft
later 19mm rods are reliable for 350-360 lb/ft
cranks - 210 and 225 hp engines appear to use a forged crank and this is probably good for as much torque as you can get out of an engine using this stroke crank.
other 1.8t engines seem to have a cast crank but again this seems to be OK for at least 350lb/ft so the big turbo can go on any stock 1.8t upto about 350lb/ft or 360-370hp
heads - some early heads (not 210 or 225 and pre-vvt) have larger inlet ports - this is better for top end breathing and big hp numbers but loses low down torque and drivability - the castings are interchangable so you can put a large port head on any block and add the vvt cams from a 210 or 225 engine - this will give you more top end hp but a lot less torque (maybe 15lb/ft) off boost at the bottom end.
valve - the standard valves seem to be safe to about 7000 to 7200rpm generally- there have been reports of dropped valves with prolonged revving (ie track racing) above 7000rpm and are quite likely to break above 8000rpm anyway
