Knocks From Front Suspension + Burst CV Boot.

[mystic.bertie]

Guys i picked up a 2008 A4 yesterday that needs a little tlc. I knew about the knocks from the front suspension when you go over a drain or shallow hole in the road, it appears to be coming from both sides at the moment.

Would i be right in think this has nothing to do with the front right outer cv boot being burst? I drove the car slowly in both directions on full lock but i dont get and knocking to make me think there is an issue with the cv joint.

What's the best way to test all the suspension bushes and ball joints to try and find the problem. I need to do this in the residents car park, i have a trolley jack, stands and wheel ramps.

 

[spartacus68]

Probably upper control arms. You'll need to release the pinch bolt on the strut. Plenty videos on this so be warned. You'll need a new pinch bolt too. This time of year isn't great if I'm honest, but needs must. Remember and torque the arms with the car on its wheels, not when it's lifted or you'll stress the rubber bushes. Another place to check is the C link to the ARB. A pry bar will highlight any movement. Also check rubber bushes for cracks.

Parts wise, Lemforder or Meyle HD. Avoid EBay unless you want to do the same job again 6 months.

On the CV joint, assuming it's not bone dry or contaminated, then repack with grease and fit a genuine Audi CV boot. I used to buy GKN parts, but they were failing prematurely. Not sure who makes them for Audi?

 

[mystic.bertie]

Probably upper control arms. You'll need to release the pinch bolt on the strut. Plenty videos on this so be warned. You'll need a new pinch bolt too. This time of year isn't great if I'm honest, but needs must. Remember and torque the arms with the car on its wheels, not when it's lifted or you'll stress the rubber bushes. Another place to check is the C link to the ARB. A pry bar will highlight any movement. Also check rubber bushes for cracks.

Parts wise, Lemforder or Meyle HD. Avoid EBay unless you want to do the same job again 6 months.

On the CV joint, assuming it's not bone dry or contaminated, then repack with grease and fit a genuine Audi CV boot. I used to buy GKN parts, but they were failing prematurely. Not sure who makes them for Audi?

Many thanks for your reply. I jacked the front of the car up at each side and wiggled the wheel top and bottom then left to right, its tricky to see movement on the top arms but nothing was obvious. Is it possible to test the top arms without the wheels dangling?

Same with the c- link is it possible to check this without the wheels dangling. The bushes on the link dont look great but its tricky to test it with the suspension hanging.

I agree i always try and buy better quality parts and thanks for the tip.

Ok cheers on the cv boot ill get to it very soon as the boot will be a lot cheaper than the cv joint too.

 

[spartacus68]

What's the mileage and the history?

It's difficult sometimes to spot the weak points. Upper control arms need to be shot to get them to clunk moving the road wheel at a 10 to 2 position. You could take it to a garage and get them to put it on shaker plates. Failing that, just replace the ARB links given they are relatively inexpensive. At the very worst it will tighten things up front, then road test again.

 

[mystic.bertie]

What's the mileage and the history?

It's difficult sometimes to spot the weak points. Upper control arms need to be shot to get them to clunk moving the road wheel at a 10 to 2 position. You could take it to a garage and get them to put it on shaker plates. Failing that, just replace the ARB links given they are relatively inexpensive. At the very worst it will tighten things up front, then road test again.

Many Thanks for your reply. It 146k and has a good service history but there is a few years missing though. The previous owner bought it from a car dealer 5 months ago, they mot'd it 5 months ago too, it failed on the points below however. It has done 10k in those 5 months.

• Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn front arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn front arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn rear arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn rear arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))

However there is no record of what they did to rectify the issues.

I will take a closer look at the ARB links, i will drive it onto my ramps and see if i can check things any better from underneath the car. AS you say its maybe worth just replacing these anyway. If i dont get anywhere i will see if the garage can diagnose the problem.

 

[spartacus 68]

Interesting. If it failed rather than an MOT advisory on it, then what did they fit? Either the other parts are going or the revised parts are stressing them? 10 months is nothing.

The N/S and O/S is a bit ambiguous, top arms, lower arms?

Without details I'd be inclined to look towards a full front end refresh. Meyle HD is good for 4 years. Lemforder is OE as far as I'm aware. Fit and forget and all that. I did my B5 V6 quattro at 120k and see its just passed 200k since I sold it.

 

[mystic.bertie]

Interesting. If it failed rather than an MOT advisory on it, then what did they fit? Either the other parts are going or the revised parts are stressing them? 10 months is nothing.

The N/S and O/S is a bit ambiguous, top arms, lower arms?

Without details I'd be inclined to look towards a full front end refresh. Meyle HD is good for 4 years. Lemforder is OE as far as I'm aware. Fit and forget and all that. I did my B5 V6 quattro at 120k and see its just passed 200k since I sold it.

Yes i thought that too they are not specific enough so its hard to assume what was replaced. I might call the car dealer to see if they can tell me what was replaced for the mot as it was only August when it was done. If i can find out i could then rule out certain components.

I agree a front end refresh would be great for a car with this many miles however i dont have a lot of money spare so right now finding the culprit is key. Im not sure how long i will keep the car either so i dont want to spend too much on it.

Yes through all my research in the past Lemforder is OE parts and i make sure i buy that brand.

I will get the car up on ramps and see what i parts i can test for play.

 

[audiwaterpump]

The previous owner bought it from a car dealer 5 months ago, they mot'd it 5 months ago too, it failed on the points below however. .

If they sold it after 5 months, that would seem to indicate they got-rid-quick.

 

[mystic.bertie]

If they sold it after 5 months, that would seem to indicate they got-rid-quick.

Yeah i was very suspicious about that. The young man told me his insurance was too high so he was selling it to buy something cheaper. I dont usually go for cars with low ownership but i have not been having much luck finding a car, a job came up and i needed a car asap. After driving the car i knew it needed some tlc but it drove fine and i the only issue was the knocking suspension. The timing belt has been done and so has the clutch. There has not been any nasty surprises in the 4 days i have had it. The rear view mirror fell off but thats an easy cheap fix.

so either he was telling the truth or he was put off by the knocking suspension and wanted rid.

 

[mystic.bertie]

Interesting. If it failed rather than an MOT advisory on it, then what did they fit? Either the other parts are going or the revised parts are stressing them? 10 months is nothing.

The N/S and O/S is a bit ambiguous, top arms, lower arms?

Without details I'd be inclined to look towards a full front end refresh. Meyle HD is good for 4 years. Lemforder is OE as far as I'm aware. Fit and forget and all that. I did my B5 V6 quattro at 120k and see its just passed 200k since I sold it.

I did a bit of phoning around today but i could not get any more info on what work was done for the mot.

Do you know where is a cheap to buy a genuine Audi cv boot kit, the dealer want over 50 quid whew.

 

[spartacus68]

How quickly do you need it?

Autodoc is very good, but hit or a miss in terms of how long it takes. SKF, Febi, etc. Hard to believe main dealer can charge £50! I used a Laser boot installation tool to replace the CV boot on my daughter's Fiat 500 for the MOT last year. Couldn't get the damn CV joint off, so if it's not contaminated it's worth it.

 

[mystic.bertie]

How quickly do you need it?

Autodoc is very good, but hit or a miss in terms of how long it takes. SKF, Febi, etc. Hard to believe main dealer can charge £50! I used a Laser boot installation tool to replace the CV boot on my daughter's Fiat 500 for the MOT last year. Couldn't get the damn CV joint off, so if it's not contaminated it's worth it.

Yeah im also hoping that includes vat, it had the boot, grease, 2 clips and a new bolt for the axle. I will see what available for Febi or SKF as long as i can get it in the next few days.

I got some pics and vids of the lower suspension but ill post it when i have more time. cheers bud

 

[spartacus68]

Yeah im also hoping that includes vat, it had the boot, grease, 2 clips and a new bolt for the axle. I will see what available for Febi or SKF as long as i can get it in the next few days.

If you need it quick then don't order it from Autodoc. I ordered rear FAG bearing hubs on Jan 18 for my Polo and they're still not here. I think they are on a barge on the Rhine!

 

[mystic.bertie]

If you need it quick then don't order it from Autodoc. I ordered rear FAG bearing hubs on Jan 18 for my Polo and they're still not here. I think they are on a barge on the Rhine!

Yeah i heard that they were having issues so i will avoid them for sure. I hope you get your parts real soon.

 

[mystic.bertie]

Hey there i got some pics as im wondering if the bushes on the front lower control arms look like the problem.

From what i can see the front lower arm ball joint has been replaced on both sides as the rubber looks fresh but that's an assumption based on the mot report and the rubber condition. ALso the rear lower arm bushes look fresh too so i think they have been replaced both sides.

 

[Audiforlife]

Best bet would be to visually look at them and get someone to shake the wheel. Also get a pry bar in there and check for movement

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

 

[mystic.bertie]

Best bet would be to visually look at them and get someone to shake the wheel. Also get a pry bar in there and check for movement
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Ok mate thanks for your advice, not easy with all this snow lying about. I tried to pinpoint the fault, rooting around under the wheel arch and levering the bottom of the disc brake with a lever. It sounds and feels like the noise is coming from the upper arms but i be sure, i need to do as you said and try this task with another person. I will get back to you.