Karls 3.0 TDI build thread

Capa has a cp1 fuel pump which has a gear pump located behind it for feed pressure. Installing another in line pump is not required to be honest. Stock cp1 is good enough with rail pressure drop for around 800nm (385hp).
Chee
 
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I did find that the extra pump stopped the fuel rail pressure dropping as much as it does when hitting high 300bhp numbers. As you say you can work around it but I figured it was better to try and maintain the fuel rail pressure resulting in reduced injection duration and hopefully better atomisation .
 
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I did find that the extra pump stopped the fuel rail pressure dropping as much as it does when hitting high 300bhp numbers. As you say you can work around it but I figured it was better to try and maintain the fuel rail pressure resulting in reduced injection duration and hopefully better atomisation .
Thanks for all the help,
Car is booked in for the 11th September with Rick so will give me chance to do a few bits and a service. My goal it 370-380 750nm if I hit those numbers I’m hoping I’m happy but obviously comes down to the way she feels, at them moment she’s meant to 300bhp and she’s ok. Since adding the turbo boot comes in later but pulls much stronger to redline. So hoping a the map can bring it back in earlier
 
Hi Karl, massive thanks again, fuel pump install went smoothly which is nice. Found I can get to the MAP sensor easy by removing with wheel and going in that way, was easier than removing the head light. Car is in at Ricks in the morning, nervous but looking forward to it.
Thanks again!
 
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This is from a previous post.

Manual diesels not so good 0-60 as you can't do 60 in second as you can in most petrols so you need 2 gear changes but I would say it's some where in the low 5's 5.3 -5.4s if you get it right. Car isn't a lightweight it does weigh 1800Kg. A car with a DSG box would be a little quicker but I am not sure how it would handle 720Nm of torque.

Hi
I watched a video on You Tube Darkside Developements A5 3.0 with a DSG 400 plus BHP and 600 NM and it developed a crack in the bell housing.
Enjoying your Thread.
 
I know what you are saying Chris but 330bhp out of a 2.0 TDI engine is 165bhp / litre which would be the same as me trying to squeeze 495bhp out of mine. We are not quite in the same league there.
If I get mine to around 360-370bhp that only works out to less than 125bhp /litre which would be 250bhp in a 2.0 TDI . There are plenty of cars running that much power quite comfortably and reliably.
I think as the Americans say there is no replacement for displacement.
As for the transmission side of things I went for the B8 A4 because of the dual clutch arrangement on the 3.0 TDI. With effectively two 228mm clutch plates at 750Nm thats only 375Nm on each clutch.There are many A4 / A5 3.0 TDI's in Europe running 750Nm 370-400 bhp with no issues and thats on the standard LUK clutch. I haven't seen any car that has anything other than the standard clutch, they don't make an upgraded item.
The limit for this engine is pretty much around 400bhp because thats all the standard fuel system will provide. And to get that requires WMI as well.I hope to keep this car for several years and I certainly don't want to be spending a lot on it rebuilding the engine.
EGT temps with a hybrid on my car will probably be the same or possibly lower than they are at the moment with the improvement in flow from the turbine, PCP will be higher but I won't be having to advance the injection timing a whole load to try and get enough fuel in to make the power.

Karl.

Re - the DRLS blogged earlier up there.
Around the same time as you were experimenting.I did the same and the crisp clean white light transforms the look of the lamps.
So then I searched around for indicator lamps. Despite one nice chinese chap fitting PH24W bases to a set of his 80w (16 x 5w) amber cree LEDs, I dont think that they appeared quite as bright as the original incandescent bulbs. However without having a mixed pair fitted (for side-by-side comparison) you wouldnt really tell. Mine came via Aliexpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...-80w-High-Power-Cree-Vehicles/2045524647.html
So.....! they didnt look as bright as a std 21w but alone difficult to tell. LEDs will only get better with time. Now its 2021, If anyone has bought and tested a newer PH24WY amber LED and found it to be as bright as a Std 21w incandescent bulb, then please post a link.
 
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If it helps, it seems that despite a significant reduction in supply current (around 2/3 less in my case) the monitoring system has not given a warning. Nor did it warn when I replaced the indicators with LEDs too.
I can report further, that over the past 5-6 years I've now had LED DRLs, Indicators, and aftermkt HID Dipped beam: I have had around 10 spurious "bulb out" warnings, most for the DRLs, acouple for the HID. These all reset on the next power cycle with the ign key and have not occurred significantly enough to be classed as a nuisance. I'd say that for DRLs running only 1/3 of the original power consumption, the current is close to the trigger threshold. Would be absolutely fab if someone clever knew how to code a reduced (rather than deleted) bulb out threshold)!!!

Next job for me is to improve the dome light switch. Mine is either has very dirty contacts or its a poor design for use with LEDs as my LEDs are very sensitive to the slightest touch of the switch and can often appear flickery or dull, indicating poor contact and a voltage drop.
 
I have used yellowstuff before and although better than redstuff they won't be good enough on the track. They seem to be OK in lighter cars but heavier barges, this is around 1800Kg, I don't think they work so well. How heavy is your Fiat ? .Yellowstuff also makes loads of dust where as Redstuff is great.
I know it's a pain swapping pads but I really don't think you can get a good track pad that is also really good on the road. There is just too much of a difference in what they need to do.
These are the discs I will be using. I have looked at other options and either they are a lot more expensive or basically just souped up standard rotors.

View attachment 85667

Brake discs have arrived. Look nice, hopefully they will work as well as they look :) . They are handed so need to make sure I fit them to the right side of the car :) .
DSC_1729_zpssbg4unh8.jpg~original


DSC_1717_zpsrpnxw4bj.jpg~original


DSC_1727_zpsjqtwbnic.jpg~original


Modified my £8.50 Ebay fog light grills, Quite impressed with the quality.
Before
DSC_1719_zpssxkb2rid.jpg~original


After
DSC_1720_zpsmkwzspl8.jpg~original


Hopefully finish of the brake cooling mods and fit the discs and calipers at the weekend as long as it doesn't rain.
Q1 - Disks were how much? ..and from where? Will look further on in this thread if already posted (Taken me 2 days to read this far!!)
Q2 Have you looked on Aliexpress for the RS style Fog grills? I think they set my car off really nice, plus - you can drill and file out as many of the hexagons as you need to achieve. Believe I've also seen some RS style ones that are all Hex mesh too. Worth the month or 3 wait for the price.
 
I can report further, that over the past 5-6 years I've now had LED DRLs, Indicators, and aftermkt HID Dipped beam: I have had around 10 spurious "bulb out" warnings, most for the DRLs, acouple for the HID. These all reset on the next power cycle with the ign key and have not occurred significantly enough to be classed as a nuisance. I'd say that for DRLs running only 1/3 of the original power consumption, the current is close to the trigger threshold. Would be absolutely fab if someone clever knew how to code a reduced (rather than deleted) bulb out threshold)!!!

Next job for me is to improve the dome light switch. Mine is either has very dirty contacts or its a poor design for use with LEDs as my LEDs are very sensitive to the slightest touch of the switch and can often appear flickery or dull, indicating poor contact and a voltage drop.
Some of the LED replacement bulbs are not such good quality. I would suspect that the light switch itself is not faulty, If you fitted the original bulbs back in then you would probably find they worked fine.
 
Q1 - Disks were how much? ..and from where? Will look further on in this thread if already posted (Taken me 2 days to read this far!!)
Q2 Have you looked on Aliexpress for the RS style Fog grills? I think they set my car off really nice, plus - you can drill and file out as many of the hexagons as you need to achieve. Believe I've also seen some RS style ones that are all Hex mesh too. Worth the month or 3 wait for the price.
The brake discs were from ECS, an American tuning company, I bought mine from Awesome GTI who import ECS stuff. Last time I saw them for sale they were a silly price anyway something like £600 for a pair, I paid a lot less than that when I bought mine.


I made my own fog light grilles with some mesh and some £8.50 Ebay fog light grilles.
 
Some of the LED replacement bulbs are not such good quality. I would suspect that the light switch itself is not faulty, If you fitted the original bulbs back in then you would probably find they worked fine.
The regular incandescent festoons, having tungsten filaments possess such a slow thermal response to a dirty switch/current fluctuation that you would never see flicker. The LEDs however, are full off/on in under 20ms. That's why the fault becomes noticeable, but only when reading with the switch selected to on.
With the LEDs on the test bench and a good connection all is good.
I shall clean up the contacts (may apply an elect contact lube) and try to increase the tension. Otherwise, I may fit a micro-switch for the rocker to push when selected to permanently on.
I've also found it frustrating to find an inexpensive LED for the map lights that are: (a) bright enough, (b) a good colour match, (c) cast the beam wide enough so as to create an even light with no shadows, i.e. avoiding looking like an amateur bodge. -------Any inexpensive (sub £4) suggestions gratefully received-------
 
I've just sat here and read this entire thread non-stop for the last couple of hours.

What a journey!

No questions from me, just thanks for sharing this as it continues to answer so many questions to this day.
 
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