Karls 3.0 TDI build thread

Chaps, what's been modified on the intake to give the dump valve type noise?
 
Your exhaust Sounds great Karl

My idle sound like it's a cammed up v8.

Emmo, both Karl and my self have a 3 inch intake pipe from the turbo to the air box with no noise resonator in it.

This is the one I made up.
 

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Bought some brake fittings to delete the pressure limiter on the clutch. This is two females and a male screwed together.
DSC_2357_zpsdzosdnwh.jpg~original



Looking at the existing pipe I don't think there is much scope to pull any back as one fitting wouldn't be long enough to bridge the gap I put two female joiners onto a male joiner. However I am not sure that will work 100% as brake fittings rely on the softer brake pipe being squashed to make a good seal.
This is steel on steel and although they are tapered externally and internally I wasn't happy so tightened them as much as I could and then welded them up.There won't be as much pressure in the system as a brake system but I would only like to do this once.
So there no way it's going to leak now and with a dab of silver hammerite it looks to be a little longer than the existing item so hopefully fits fine. Will hopefully fit this tomorrow , weather permitting.
DSC_2358_zpsxnualjla.jpg~original
 
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Well changed this over last Monday Afternoon. A big thank you to @PenttisHSR for mentioning this.
A bit of a ball ache to get at as it's located under the brake servo and getting at it is a bit fiddly but after removing the aluminium bulkhead heat shield it's a lot more accessible. I would recommend an 11mm brake spanner just to make sure you don't round the nuts off.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Br...hash=item211f522920:m:mu8UiZ582v_t0npEYMS6nFg

DSC_2361_zpsbo2dphit.jpg~original

Fairly easy to bleed the clutch, used a Gunson brake bleed kit with 20PSI in. Plenty of fluid came out of the clutch slave when I undid the bleed nipple. It's plastic on the clutch slave cylinder so don't get carried away.
The clutch slave is fortunately easy to get at after removing the transmission plastic undertray.

The part removed is a pressure damper I believe and has a diaphragm in which reduces any pressure pulses passed back from the clutch and would make the pedal action smoother. To me the pedal feels quite similar to before, possibly you can feel the biting point a bit better . And most definitely the changes are better. Trying to get a quick change 2nd to 3rd has always been a hit and miss affair, Now no problems. up and down the box easily.
You can see on the part removed it's straight through.

DSC_2363_zpsdor8fqll.jpg~original



I am not sure you could just use one brake couple to join the two pipe ends. There really isn't any give in the pipes and you may end up braking the clutch master cylinder as it's only plastic.
 
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Small mod in anticipation of the hybrid and a remap. Looking around at several of the more powerful 3.0 TDI cars with the hybrids they have fitted larger intake pipes.
The standard one I think is good for 240bhp but with potentially 50% more power that will probably be having an effect.

The intake pipe is 78mm stainless, and instead of tapering down to 57mm and then feeding into the silencer at the front of the turbo where the crankcase breather is. I have used a 45 degree silicon reducer to go from 78mm to 57mm this makes the transition from the large pipe a lot more gradual and I can now hear a bit of induction roar as well.
The original intake silencer fitted to the car



How it looks with the reducer on the end of the pipe



The stainless pipe with the crankcase vent pipe welded on



How it looks fitted



Decided to paint it black and try and make it look as OE as possible



Karl.
Hey Karl

Could you tell me the radius of the 78 mm stainless pipe? You would really help me :)

Thank you alot!
 
Really wanted to do this mod on mine. Just had a look tho and the intake pipe seams to have some sort of sensor bonded to it? Do I just cut this off the pipe and secure somewhere else or is it needed?

Thanks


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Yes the DPF pressure sensor is mounted on the pipe. It is just secured with a single screw. I just unscrewed the sensor and tie wrapped it to the intake pipe. you can't see it when the engine cover is in place.
 
Ah right great stuff will have to get the parts ordered. I have just had the DPF gutted and a rolling road map done will this affect anything if I do the mod?

Thanks


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Your exhaust Sounds great Karl

My idle sound like it's a cammed up v8.

Emmo, both Karl and my self have a 3 inch intake pipe from the turbo to the air box with no noise resonator in it.

This is the one I made up.


Where can I buy one!?
 
hello, what size is the inlet and outlet of the standard intercooler?
 
Hey Karl,

Many thanks for the excellent tutorial regarding how to replace the sad yellow DRLs.
I work in IT, and I not ashamed to admit that I am mechanically challenged, :) but with your help there even I could get it sorted.

Mine looks like a new and happy little car now. Good stuff.
 
Looks good, Before I replaced the bulbs with LED's I used to have the DRL's off, as you say the standard bulbs are fairly lame when compared to most of the newer cars with LED's.
 
Hi mate. I followed your led mod for day light but i often get error even when the bulbs working perfectly. Is there coding for this retrofit. I also have led reverse light but quick search i got coding right.

Thank you

Res

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Mine reports a bulb out very occasionally in the summer when it's hot and the car has been running for a few hours. I chose the highest power LED bulbs I could to try and avoid having to fit any resistors. I don't know if there is coding for the front DRL's as there is for the reversing lights to stop them reporting faults.
 
Hi Karl, changed the transmission fluid this week, I was quite glad I remembered that you also had the sub frame cross support in the way of the drain, I couldn't quite remember if it was okay to remove or not so quickly googled karl's build thread transmission fluid. This thread just keeps giving and giving. Thanks again.

Time to give some back. I installed an oil catch can on the (A5 CAPA) tdi, thought you and Bobby would be very interested.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/oil-catch-can-install-on-3-0-tdi-pics.320391/
 
Hi Karl

Re: ARBs

Thanks for all the great info you have shared along your thread, ARBs been one of many.

Hopefully a quick question,did the fixing clamps over the bushes from your OEM SE model still work on the larger H&R performance bars you fitted and if so are front and rear clamps reusable, as it is not possible to purchase rear clamps by themselfs they only come fitted to the OEM ARB (so hopefully they can be removed),fronts you can purchase separate if needed.


Thanks
Paul
 
Yes the OE clamps work with the H&R bushes. I don't know whether you know or I made it clear in the posts but I am only running the rear H&R bar and have the standard OE front bar. This I have found gives the best handling. With the 60/40 torque split you can get the back moving around about accelerating out of junctions and turn in is really good.
 
Cheers Karl

I take it you had both uprated bars on but reverted back to OEM SE bar at front?
Out of interest was it tricky to drive with uprated front bar on as well or just not a nice feel?
Regards
 
I found with the uprated bar on the front that the car was flatter in corners and probably at high speed on smooth roads would be quicker. However on not so perfect roads with pot holes etc the ride isn't as good and at slower speeds you get more understeer with the uprated bar. They don't take that long to swap over so I would suggest you run it both ways for a few days to see which you think is best.
 
Thats great thanks for info it is much appreciated.

I take it you prefer the uprated rear bar and SE bar front vs Sline rear and SE front?
Cheers
 
Yes, the S-Line rear was an improvement from the SE rear but the H&R bar was a big step better again.
 
Thanks for taking the time to reply this is all great info which really helps.
Regards
 
Hi Karl, how did you get the torx bit off from the turbo damper (elsawin calls it the air intake connection, attached picture)

I can only get a screwdriver torx bit in, but no spanner fits that. I've got a torx socket bit set, but there isn't enough clearance due to the plastic body to remove it. If I can't get it off I'll just send the turbo off like this I suppose.

Have put locking pliers on it but still slip on the torx bit.

At a bit of a loss here? Could you once more bestow your mechanical wisdom onto me please!
 

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Sorry, must have been having a blond moment, allen key!! D'oh! I can remove a turbo but not a simple bolt. LOL
 
Hi, I use ball end Allen keys , They work upto a 30 degree incline I believe. search on Fleaby for "ball end Allen key" , You can buy a set for around £6 for a half decent make like Silverline .
 
Trip to GTI international today at it's new home in Rockingham. Not been there before , It's a very impressive facility pity there weren't more people there though, it would be hard to fill though as the stands are massive.Some very nice cars there, nice to meet some of the Audi Sport people and look at some nice cars.
Had a go on the sprint track , instead of a 1/4 mile run this is only half the distance just 1/8 mile. As this was a race track grip at the start line and in the first phase was a problem for anybody with fwd. I posted a fastest 1/8 mile time of 8.429 seconds which won me another fastest diesel trophy.
Very nice glass trophy similar to the two I won in the last two years.

DSC_2539_zpsroouc1jp.jpg~original


My best 1/8th mile time was a 8.429 s which is 0.16s faster than the fastest 1/8 mile time I did last year at GTI on the 1/4 mile at Shakespeare and the car did feel like it was pulling better with the manifiold I have put on, No longer a modified standard hollowed out DPF, fitted the straight through pipe I have had for a while. Initially fitted this when the hybrid was first fitted but had to take it off as there wasn't enough back pressure and the car was using oil. Now it's done some miles the turbine oil seal has carbonned up a bit and it seems to run fine. Makes a nicer noise to.

Here's one of the runs against a TT, not sure what it is but it was in my mirrors all the way up the straight.
th_LapTimerOverlay-20170603-115004_zpsvisipvt7.mp4


There is a great feature on the way in and out of the infield, the Exhaust appreciation tunnel. Had to turn around and drive through this again to appreciate the noise of my diesel.

 
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Nice job against the TT I find out of all Audi drivers TTs always bite

I bet he was miffed as the big diesel showed him the way down the straight
 
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I did have a word with one driver who I left standing :) . He was in a Seat Leon Cupra, apparently running 420bhp, but only FWD so his excuse was loads of wheel spin and no grip :) . He was starting to catch me a little by the time we got to the end but I reckon even on a quarter mile he wouldn't have caught me quick enough.



I didn't win all the runs. This very quick RS6 managed to get in front of me. Not surprising really with the power these things run and the flappy paddle gearboxes make life a whole lot easier. Left him for dead on the line though and he only just caught me by the 1/8th.

 
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Well done Karl, another one for the trophy cabinet ;)

Do you think having removed the hydraulic clutch damper/accumulator 'thingy' has improved shift time and gotten rid of any small degree if slip (that is if you had any in the first place ) ?
 
Never had any slip with the clutch, but the clutch damper removal definitely improved the gear changes. The 2001 225 TT I have bought as a track day car has exactly the same part on it for the clutch. I removed that and replaced it with the same arrangement as the A4 and that improved the gear change on that as well. Second to third on the A4 was sometimes a bit hit and miss, only when trying to change gear as quick as possible. It's a lot better now.
 
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Karl, this is the CP3 HPFP , right?

d5de0e8fcf0ef5278266718b1ffb174f.jpg



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That is a CP3 pump yes. I am not entirely sure if it's the same used by Bobby. I use the standard CP1H pump on my car. If you are looking for a replacement to flow more and at a higher pressure than the CP4 pump then the CP3 is the way to go.
 
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That is a CP3 pump yes. I am not entirely sure if it's the same used by Bobby. I use the standard CP1H pump on my car. If you are looking for a replacement to flow more and at a higher pressure than the CP4 pump then the CP3 is the way to go.

Thanks!

This is the standard HPFP on BMk engine (a6 2005)
At the moment its perfect just i was curious


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