Karls 3.0 TDI build thread

Hi there.
Nice project first of all. I will be following this thread.

But can someone point me out to this Mike guy that sells Q5 brembo calipers for 345mm discs ?
 
Hi guys, one more question regarding the butterfly in the airbix. I just removed it two days ago and i have to confirm i can feel the diference. BUT, i can also see difrence in the consumption. Did you notice higher consumption as well? Of course it depends on the driving style, but from first test it seems its higher. What worries me more is error on the diag. It not causing any check engine light on the dashboard, but when i ran diag i can see there is error. I just removed the flap itself, didnt remove this vacuum operated valve, but i had it disconnected for couple minutes (but i guess this should not make any problem). Do you think this vacuum valvecan have problems when its disconnected from the axle of butterfly? Did you check yours if you have the same error now? I didtnt write down the exact error, but it was something about airflow bypass...
In relation to that, i was thininkg to put the flap back and just drill a whole to it to avoid any error and to set some compromize between more power vs. more consumption or make a new whole in the airbox and put some pvc pipe there - what do you think about that?
 
I removed mine ages ago and can't recall there being an error showing up ? But I wouldn't have thought that the fuel consumption would go up ? But saying that my 2.0 TDI mapped does an average of 42mpg when I have heard other people's doing 50!! The best I have seen out of mine on a journey is 48.

I might think of putting it back in on Monday and seeing if it makes a difference ? What is the rear reason why it is there as I just seen someone on here saying to remove it so I just did :blink:
 
I could see no difference in the consumption at all. The only reason you would get an error is if you had disconnected the electrical connector off the solenoid. As long as the solenoid is connected to the wiring there will be no error codes generated.
Small changes in driver behaviour can cause changes in economy.
 
I haven't noticed any difference in fuel consumption and I also haven't had any errors logged. Maybe check again that the sensor is connected and hasn't become dislodged


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
In the hunt for better 0-60 and quarter mile times, I'm wondering if with a manual it's feasible to do a second gear launch.

The old R33 and R34 tuners launching their GTRs in second gear apparently being quite common. I suppose I wouldn't recommend doing so on a daily basis but it would be interesting to see as 1st gear is so ridiculously short.
 
I have tried a second gear launch and it's no quicker and I suspect puts a lot more strain on the clutch having to have more revs and slipping the clutch.
 
Thanks Bobby, very helpful, and insightful comment Karl, thank you.

Karl, just a quick question, did you get the compressor/turbine wheels from skillaturbo?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MFS-65mm-...346839?hash=item281fde3017:g:6MgAAOSw1vlUxQu-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172333352615

Looking at these two, very promising. Looks similar to what you have?

Not sure how much the actual work would cost in building the turbo, but I'm purchasing a second hand turbo soon and then sending it off.

Do you run a second electric fuel pump anywhere on your CAPA engine Karl?
 
That is the turbine I run in my turbo. The compressor wheel I have is I believe smaller than that one you linked to. The wheel I have is 62mm which has extended tips to 66mm.
I have fitted an extra pump but I am not 100% sure you need it. As long as the fuel rail pressure is held at the requested level with the flow you want then it should be good.There is plenty of room by the fuel filter as most of the diesels have a pump in that position.
 
Great, sounds the pump would be an easy mod if need be.

He does sell a 62mm one but it's got the 11 blades one.
I had a look for the company TDI turbos that you used(?), but it doesn't like they are trading anymore. What would be a rough cost when sending off a turbo to be modified? I'm looking for a low mileage 2260 so wouldn't need the bearings refurbishing.
 
TDI turbos have a facebook page but it's very rarely updated.
https://www.facebook.com/TDi-Turbos...?entry_point=page_nav_about_item&tab=overview
Have you tried
I bought a second hand turbo from German Ebay for £250 and it cost me around £550 to get it modified. Most of the money is in the machineing of the compressor housing and turbine housing as well as rebuilding the turbo and balancing it.
The thrust plate is upgraded and you will need step gap oil seals. They would replace all the bearings and seals as the cost of those is minimal in relation to the other work.
 
desertstorm said:
TDI turbos have a facebook page but it's very rarely updated.
https://www.facebook.com/TDi-Turbos...?entry_point=page_nav_about_item&tab=overview
Have you tried
I bought a second hand turbo from German Ebay for £250 and it cost me around £550 to get it modified. Most of the money is in the machineing of the compressor housing and turbine housing as well as rebuilding the turbo and balancing it.
The thrust plate is upgraded and you will need step gap oil seals. They would replace all the bearings and seals as the cost of those is minimal in relation to the other work.
Click to expand...

Yeah I noticed there were no posts for over a year. I'll give em a PM and see.

So since basically is replaced it's better to find a turbo as cheap as possible with regardless of how many miles are on it or oil change history etc?
 
TimberVD said:
Great, sounds the pump would be an easy mod if need be.

He does sell a 62mm one but it's got the 11 blades one.
I had a look for the company TDI turbos that you used(?), but it doesn't like they are trading anymore. What would be a rough cost when sending off a turbo to be modified? I'm looking for a low mileage 2260 so wouldn't need the bearings refurbishing.
Click to expand...

no company i am aware of will just machine you a cover and slap you a wheel on it will just swiftly fail . the journal bearing and seal kits are pennies in comparison there is no need to risk not doing it
 
I have my vzk on eBay now if that's of any use to you.

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
 
Natebrand1987 said:
no company i am aware of will just machine you a cover and slap you a wheel on it will just swiftly fail . the journal bearing and seal kits are pennies in comparison there is no need to risk not doing it
Click to expand...

Good advice there, thanks Nate.

Joe3.0tdi said:
I have my vzk on eBay now if that's of any use to you.

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'm not actually sure the vzk fits, I know it's the turbo of the 245bhp model, so newer, not sure if there are any small changes. Link is not working either......
 
Just having a look at Elsawin on how to remove and install the turbo. Is it really this ridiculously simple to fit a turbocharger??? I've changed a 200sx S14a turbo and I thought that was pretty easy all things considered. But this is just something else......what do you think Karl? Does Elsawin make it look easier then it really is?
 
It is pretty simple if everything goes well. I swapped the hybrid and normal turbo several times over before I was happy with it.
As long as bolts don't snap you should be good. The studs on the exhaust flange can snap, You need spline bits for the oil supply pipe and the three bolts that secure the turbo.
 
Sounds good Karl. I might actually use the turbo from the car and get that sent off for modifying, we've got access to another car so it shouldn't be an issue.

Would there be an issue installing the hybrid on a stock map and then driving it to the tuners to get it mapped, providing I don't boot it? I'm thinking it shouldn't be an issue, and considering I'll have to travel a bit to get to where I need to go, it'll save time and ultimately money if I install the turbo myself.
 
Thanks Karl, that's great to know.

In regards to the electric fuel pump, have you got any more info on that? Perhaps some installation pictures?

I assume it's a Walbro equivalent pump? Where did you take the power from and is it well insulated against moisture ingress?

Again, any issue with running that on a standard map before I get it tuned? Sorry for all the questions, but it's quite rare usually to have one person with most if not all the answers. :sm4:
 
bobby singh said:
Why do you want to increase the feed pressure? what hpfp do you have?
Click to expand...

I've got a 2007 CAPA engine, I've seen a few people with additional electric fuel pumps on higher stages of CAPA tuning and I know Karl has got an additional pump as well so I figured it was a safe mod to do.
 
I am not 100% sure but I believe the rail pressure sensor on the CAPA engine is only good for 1800 bar. It's a different part number than the one used in the CCWA engine. In the parts listings for the car it's listed 1600 bar. On the CCWA engine it's marked 1800 bar but I think that sensor may be good for 2000 bar.Maybe you could see what the sensor is calibrated too in the CAPA map Bobby.
I believe the 1600 and 1800 bar notation in the parts diagrams is indicative of the OE max fuel pressure.

http://etka.cc/audi/part_single/cat.../130/subcategory/130070/part_id/261921/lang/e

http://etka.cc/audi/part_single/cat...ubcategory/130075/part_id/261921/lang/e#sec_3

I saw several high power CAPA engines using an extra feed pump, I presumed it was to assist the feed pump that is built into the CP1H pump to maintain flow at high injection rates/ pressure. The CAPA doesn't have the 5 bar electric pump that the CCWA has by the fuel filter.
If you can maintain specified fuel pressure at the maximum demand without an extra pump then you don't really need it.
 
CAPA runs 1800bar stock.
Strong feed pump doesn't hurt but I would test the R85 on it own as I'm sure it'll be fine.
There was some talk about additional pump helping with cp4 cars but again you would be better to install a cp3 as the difference was extra 5mg.
The stock feed pump in the ccwa is regulated @ 5bar but when running with a cp3 the pump delivers close to 9bar.
 
Hey Karl. I really appreciate all the information you are sharing in your thread. (and Bobby)

What is the size of the FMIC your are using?

You do some track events I see, what is the typical oil temperature peaks you experience?
 
You can get oil temp display on older cars by reflashing the instrument cluster with the latest firmware. I have done that on my 2008 Audi A4 3.0 TDI.
You need a VAS5054 adapter and I used VAS PC software, but you can also use ODIS Engineering.
 
I am aware you can reflash the cluster but just to gain an oil temp gauge it's not really worth it for me.
 
And do you have 2g or 3g MMI ? I checked on A5 and if you have 3g (since middle of 2008) and when you enable lap timer, you can see oil temp. Unfortunately i have 2007 so i enabled lap timer and i see just lap times :grumpy:
 
My car is an early 2008 and is 1g with the Concert radio :) . I have the lap timer enabled for all the use it is. I have tried using it on the track and it's not very good.
 
Haven't updated this much recently mainly as I have run out of things to do with the car.
Did have an issue though when some t**t decided to move over whilst I was overtaking him the other week when I was going to work. Don't know whether he didn't see me or he was avoiding puddles/ potholes but he moved over whilst I was overtaking him. End result I brushed the kerb on the drivers side with both wheels.
After all the grief I have been through getting these wheels on the car I was most p****d off.
I am sure if I still had the GY Eagle F1 assymetric 2 tyres on with the great rim protectors they would have been fine.
However the assymetric 3 rim protector is next to useless. There wasn't a mark on the tyre wall of either wheel.

DSC_2156_zpsphy1ipvt.jpg~original


DSC_2154_zpsvi0sswue.jpg~original


I took the wheels to JP alloys in Cannock which happens to be just down the road and I was very surprised with what they have managed to do. The finish is almost identical and it's difficult to spot the difference between original and refurbished. They have managed to remove all the damage without affecting the inscription on the wheel.
It's a shadow chrome silver color and the inside of the wheels has been painted black the same as the originals. As 2 wheels have been done they are on the one side so there is no issue with the very slight colour difference.

DSC_2157_zpstfvz9osx.jpg~original


So the end result is I will still be recommending GY F1 tyres but with a rider about very poor rim protection.
And if you are anywhere in the Midlands and need a great job doing on refurbishing alloys I would say goto JP alloys in Cannock.

http://www.jpalloys.co.uk/
 
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I will leave that kind of thing to somebody else. Quite happy with the performance / reliability of the car as it is.
 
Ouch, that's a horrible thing, my wife had that, slightly less good looking alloys now. :(

Ps. if anyone is wondering about the bi-turbo intercooler on the 3.0 TDI, I've done a little write up on the install. It's on the A5, but it should (hopefully) be very similar on MLB cars. Haven't seen anyone run these with the A6 pipes as well. Fits quite neatly.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...ntercooler-on-a5-3-0-tdi.296021/#post-2854497
 
IMG 4007
Great thread Karl.
I have a 09 A5 3.0 still has full cat and dpf installed with a basic tune (stock boost but the boost curve had been modified along with 1.8% more fuel) Auto with wmi 60% meth.
Wmi Has dropped the charge temps about 15c when switched on.
Have had only 1 run in it ,stalled it at 3k off the line and ran a 13.2 1/4 with a 2.03 60ft.
You read some big hp figure gains for wmi tests from the states, but not so in your case.
How have you connected your wmi injection into your intake?
This is a photo of the pipe I made up.
It connects just after the intercooler.
It's using a 455cc injector with a 300psi pump. Starts at 14 psi.
Loging with vcds it was .2 sec faster to 100kph.
 
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