Just bought a new car... problems

hooblah

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Hey guys I'm new here! Well I just bought a b6 s4 estate and I've noticed a few problems, I was hoping some of you lot could help me out.

So the main thing I've noticed is that it crunches going into 3rd. It does it in 4th as well, maybe 5th but its really noticeable in 3rd. The seller told me he fitted a new clutch a few months ago.
The clutch pedal also seems a bit stiff.
Can I conclude that the gearbox is knackered?

The other main thing is rattling when first started. How long can I go before the chain tensioners need replacing?

I don't know these cars so I have nothing to compare it to. Is there anyone local to south London that can give the car a once over for me?

Thanks!
 
Do a brake fluid change and bleed the clutch at the same time.
 
If it really has had a new clutch (could be a lie), as Mike says, change the fluid and bleed it. If that doesn't solve the problem (which to be honest, it probably won't) next step would be to replace the master cylinder. This can quite often be the cause of a stiff clutch.

To be frank, those are all symptoms of a failing clutch, so unless there's proof of a recent change I'd suspect it hasn't been done. I wouldn't think the gearbox is at fault with those symptoms.

If the rattle at start up goes on for more than a second or two, it will need sorting out. They nearly all rattle very briefly at startup.
 
Thanks for the replies!

I've ordered a new clutch master so we'll see how that goes. Are you sure about the gearbox not being at fault? Everything I've heard and read points to worn synchros and its extremely common :s
 
A broken gearbox won't give a stiff clutch pedal. The three things that would are: master, slave and clutch itself. Master is the cheapest and easiest to replace. If you have a bent master cylinder (very common on TTs when the clutch gets stiff at the end of its life), it makes the pedal stiff even after clutch replacement. This wouldn't cause crunching of gears though. If the slave has failed, you may as well replace the clutch since the labour will be the same.

Clutch failure is much more common than gearbox failure and if your pedal is very stiff, either the clutch hasn't been replaced, or it's been done by someone who hasn't addressed the issue. If I replace a clutch and it's still stiff, I'd make sure that I check and fix the other problems at the same time. If anyone has replaced the clutch and not replaced the slave, then they need a good slap because they're an idiot. This is why I'd replace the master if a fluid change doesn't sort it. If after a new master, the clutch is still stiff, my money is on either a poor job on the clutch change, or no change at all. If the clutch feels great after a new master but the gearbox still crunches then good news: you'd fixed the clutch, but the gearbox also has a problem :-(
 
Change the gearbox oil to the next viscosity down,if that don't help rebuild time!
 
So I replaced the master cylinder this weekend (what a **** of a job) and it improved the pedal feel but it still crunches.

I spoke to the previous owner and he seemed surprised about the crunching (whatever). He told me just the clutch was replaced. The flywheel and slave cylinder weren't touched.

So now what to do? To replace the slave I have to remove the gearbox. If I change the slave and it doesn't fix it I have to remove the gearbox again to replace it.
If it's crunching I think it's well past it, and changing oil will only mask the issue.

All avenues point to a new gearbox. While I'm there ill get a new slave cylinder. Should I change the clutch for a Sachs performance item? And should I get the dual mass flywheel skimmed?

Thanks for your help!
 
OK so yesterday it crunched going in 6th. What else could be causing this? Surely all of the synchros can't be worn out?!
 
Cheers. What gearbox oil and viscosity would you recommend?
 
From what I gather it looks like I need GL-4 75w90. Some popular recommendations have been Motul Gear 300 and Redline MT-90.
Should I go for one of these or something entirely different?
 
What gearbox code have you got? you can find it in the spare wheel well, in a sticker in your owner's manual or by decoding the VIN online. All these codes require 75w90. I'd advise, just as I've been advised, to get OE Audi oil. It's ~20quid per liter and you need 2.3L. You can get 2x 1L + 1x 0.5L. Can't remember which is which, anyway, here's the OE codes: G 052 911 A2 + G 052 911 A1.

 
Is the rattle the slave/thrust bearing ? if so thats your problem, try doubling the clutch to see if its clutch or a gear alignment problem !
 

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