Jacking points A3 / S3

Pulp84

Registered User
Guys and girls,

I am in the process of getting ready to paint my hubs on my S3 and need some advice on jacking points. I did a search but couldn't find anything concrete.

My plan is to lift the car, remove wheels and Hammerite (silver & smooth version) the whole hub. I had bad corrosion on my A1 and I can't stand it personally. My car lives outside and will only do 5000 miles a year so it's a prime candidate for this. I've already noticed some small rust spots, hence my quest to do this properly and safely.

I've read the manual but there appears to be three options for lifting the car after getting my head underneath it this evening:-
  • Sill points in each corner marked with an upside down triangle (as per the manual). The supplied jack has a cut out for this option.
  • 4 rubber "dimples" located near the sill points but further inwards (although I note the front ones seem a bit flimsy).
  • 4 rectangle black plastic squares front / back. Would these be for a hydraulic lift? Think these might be a red herring.

What would be best and easiest way of jacking the car up? What points have people used ?

Personally I would like to use a trolley jack. Now....I know I could get a "hockey puck" adaptor for the sills but do I really need this if the 8V has points for the standard jack head?

I haven't even fathomed out where axle stands go (but guessing once the car is lifted I will see them easily). Im thinking I might need to do a couple of coats so with drying time each wheel might be off 2-3 hours each hence using these too.

Any help and/or pics would be very much appreciated. Once done I will do a "how to thread" to help others. Thanks in advance guys
 
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veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
Unlike the 8P, the supplied widow-maker jack supplied with the 8V actually engages with, and lifts the car on the seam itself.

Therefore it would be a reasonable assumption to make that lifting the car by the seam at the same point, would be OK with a trolley jack.

I actually lift the car at this point, with a trolley jack, and a hockey puck with a slot cut out of it.

The workshop 4 point lift uses different points on the car.

More info in this thread:
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/new-a3-s3-8v-chassis/185287-jacking-points.html
 

PembsA3

Registered User
I used the square rubber blocks on the chassis rail at the rear and the round rubber blocks on the rails at the front. (These are the jack points for a four point lift on an S line like mine with the sill extensions...) These are fine. Incidentally why go to all the trouble of painting the hubs? I wiped ACF50 anti corrosion fluid on my hubs and calipers when the car was new and no sign of corrosion. If it's good enough for American navy helicopters it'll be good enough for your hubs. And no brushes to wash!!!
 

veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
I used the square rubber blocks on the chassis rail at the rear and the round rubber blocks on the rails at the front. (These are the jack points for a four point lift on an S line like mine with the sill extensions...)

Do you know if these were fitted on your car from new?

In my experience, unless the dealer/PDI had the car up on a 4 point lift, these block aren't fitted from the factory. You have to remove a bung on the rears, and discard a plastic panel on the fronts to insert the jack pads.
 

PembsA3

Registered User
These were on the car from day one. I used them the day after I picked it up to get the wheels off to treat the suspension/underside with anti- corrosion fluid.
 

Grant

Registered User
The threads on this forum are getting ridiculous. If you can't figure out how to jack up a car to remove a wheel then you shouldn't be thinking about removing the wheel in the first place.
 

Pulp84

Registered User
The threads on this forum are getting ridiculous. If you can't figure out how to jack up a car to remove a wheel then you shouldn't be thinking about removing the wheel in the first place.

Let's ask the mod's to shut the site down then........advice & guidance and helping each other is a waste of time as we should be able to figure stuff out ourselves.

My post is quite clear - just trying to clarify as the manual doesn't. Apologies.
 

slipped_disc

Registered User
The threads on this forum are getting ridiculous. If you can't figure out how to jack up a car to remove a wheel then you shouldn't be thinking about removing the wheel in the first place.

This thread was specifically about the best and easiest jacking points. So, please share your descriptions and pictures of the factory jacking points that a trolley jack should use.

Otherwise, if you've nothing useful to contribute to this thread, then please don't.
 

kenny_boon

Registered User
The threads on this forum are getting ridiculous. If you can't figure out how to jack up a car to remove a wheel then you shouldn't be thinking about removing the wheel in the first place.

Really useful input there!! cannot see the point even posting that!

for some as explained above it can be helpful to get tips on better places or techniques. yes there is a manual and yes we can all read. The big difference on the 8V is the sill seam is structural where as most VAG owners for years have needed to avoid the seam.

as for ridiculous, maybe your unhelpful nature and poor attitude is. why help people when you can belike that eh?
 

slipped_disc

Registered User
Getting back to the subject - can these 4-point lift locations be used by a trolley jack? Discussions on other threads seem to think that these points should only be used by a workshop lift where the weight is evenly distributed across ALL four points. The argument is that using one point in isolation puts too much stress on this area and can damage the underside of the car.

If so, the only trolley-jack safe locations are the sill points, using an ice-hockey puck grooved to mimic the scissor jack.

Sensible comments appreciated.
 

veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
I would only use the 4-point locations to lift using a trolley jack as a last resort/emergency. I've seen the front 4-point lift position deform the floor when using a trolley jack.

IMO Either use the jacking point seam, or find a structural member of the floor to use the trolley jack.
 

PembsA3

Registered User
I was extremely careful to check that using a trolley jack on the jacking point on the chassis rail was not causing any deformation. I doubt very much that a manufacturer would not engineer a jacking point that was not capable of supporting at least a significant proportion of the car's weight. Modern cars, and the A3 in particular, have extremely stiff chassis and jacking on one corner only is very unlikely to cause any distortion. Only my opinion but I did work in motor manufacture production engineering for many years...
 

veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
^ The front jack pad position for a 4 point lift isn't on a chassis rail, unfortunately.

The rear is though.
 

leof

Registered User
I started the other thread about this a while ago and I could not find and still have not found any more information about this. I was told by Audi that you should not use the 4 point lift positions with a trolley jack for the reasons already stated in this thread, I used the normal jacking points marked with an indent, I made a rubber pad for the trolley jack but didn't cut a groove in it so all the weight is on the seam I didn't see any damage to the underseal.

If anyone has got any idea where to place axle stands I would be very grateful to hear, when I took my wheels off for cleaning and sealing I put the spare on straight away so that the car was not sat on the jack.
 

MrLapou

Registered User
I used a wooden block slightly higher than the seam and placed it in board next to it where the triangles indicators are.
Lifted car on a soft pad fitted to the trolley jack. Same principle as used on the 8P.
 

glospete

Registered User

glospete

Registered User
So did you buy 2 things - ECS Volkswagen & Audi Jack Pad Adapter and the Jack Pad Kit 1 Corner? Do let us all know how you get on.
 

Twizzler

Registered User
I would be concerned that the front plastic cover doesn't appear to be replaceable following installation of the grommets. It's there to keep out water, road dirt and salt etc.
 

Grant

Registered User
I fitted wheel spacers to my car today and found jacking up the rear of the car easy enough - jack under the subframe/control arms.

The front on the other hand, I didn't appreciate the lack of available places to jack up the car so apologies for my initial post.

I did manage to jack up the front by removing the workshop jacking point cover and putting a 27mm impact socket in the rubber jack pad adaptor. This then allowed me to get my trolley jack under the impact socket to jack up the car.

Hope that makes sense!
 
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glospete

Registered User
I fitted wheel spacers to my car today and found jacking up the rear of the car easy enough - jack under the subframe/control arms.

The front on the other hand, I didn't appreciate the lack of available places to jack up the car so apologies for my initial post.

I did manage to jack up the front by removing the workshop jacking point cover and putting a 27mm impact socket in the rubber jack pad adaptor. This then allowed me to get my trolley jack under the impact socket to jack up the car.

Hope that makes sense!

Thanks but do you have any pictures because I'm not quite sure I follow the rear ....
 

steeve

Registered User
I know some one uses a modified hockey puck (with a slot in) that picks up on the factory jacking points. Does any one know if a similar adapter is available?
Don't fancy removing the four post jacking point covers on a regular basis.
 

steeve

Registered User
I've seen those but not keen on leaving the rubber bungs in. Would prefer a jack adapter that picks up on the sill jacking points
 

Pulp84

Registered User
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So guys - finally had time today to paint my hubs so they are better protected as we head in to winter and also to make sure they keep looking shiny.

To do this I bought / used the following:-

• Clarke 2.25 tonne low profile jack.
• Jack adaptor for sills
• Hammerite smooth silver
• 2000 grade wet and dry
• Paint prep wipes
• Fine paint brush and paint thinner.
• Garage floor matts (£10 Halfords - improvised "crash matt " incase the jack failed etc).
• The Audi provided jack kit.

Easy to do this....jack up the car with the jack adaptor guided in to ensure a snug fit. Remove centre cap with the provided tool. I used the wrench provided and undone all the bolts. Using the plastic guide (inserted in to a bolt hole) carefully take the wheel off. Placed the crash matt under the caliper / disc. Used the wet and dry to key the hub - then rub clean with a paint prep wipe.

Open and mix the paint - carefully paint the whole hub (DO NOT PAINT HUB FACE). Once done (paint dries quick - approx 15 mins) I placed the wheel back on using the guide. Bolts then done up and Jack lowered.

Nice to see them back to brilliant silver like the day I got it. Pictures show what I used, finished, half and half painted (struggled to order last two pictures!).

BIG word of warning..........I removed my rear drivers side alloy and then leaned it against my bin while I stupidly took a mobile phone call. ALWAYS lie the wheel flat on the floor once off the car. The last picture of the wheel is the result of my loss of concentration (should be able to make out the damage all over it after hitting my paving slabs).

Early morning trip to TPS Swindon tomorrow to get a replacement S3 alloy.....£650 (inc VAT).
 
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veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
****

I know it might bother you, but you can get the wheel refaced and refined.

Google JP Alloys.
 

Pulp84

Registered User
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Better pics of the damage. Painful. Oh well - its only money!
 

Pulp84

Registered User
****

I know it might bother you, but you can get the wheel refaced and refined.

Google JP Alloys.

Yeah I know - I think it was them I spoke with earlier. Can't live with it for even a day to be fair. Got the cash so no big drama. Just feel a total tool. Lesson learnt. It's the polished fork bits that are damaged - no damage to painted areas

If anyone wants it as a spare / get it refaced / diamond cut etc and can be bothered with the hassle PM me. I won't want much for it.
 

veeeight

I am a very pretty girl
VCDS Map User
Feel for you mate.

Hang on to it, when the inevitable wheel kerbing occurs, you can send 2 off to be refurbed, then they will match when you put them on the same side of the car.
 

barboy

Registered User
I'm looking to buy a trolley jack and the online reviews indicate that the Clarke ctj2QM is ideal for the weight of the S3. It comes in a case with space for sockets etc and looks kinda neat. What isn't so clear is the bit that actually contacts the jacking seam so I searched Google for "jacking pads". Lo and behold there's company on e-bay whose sole raison d'etre appears to be jacking pads for all makes and models of vehicle.
They show a jacking pad for the S3 at £4.99 post free. They also show another Audi jacking pad with a deeper groove for £8.50; however, they say it's not suitable for an S3 8V. I'm not sure why that is?
Anyway, as and when I get my Clarke ctj2QM I'll probably invest in one of these pads. Maybe it's the same price as a puck?
Does anyone have experience of the Clarke and/or the pad people on e-bay?
 

glospete

Registered User
Yes I have the Clarke 1.25 ton version which is fine as I'm only ever lifting one side at a time. You definitely need the one shown for the 8V as I developed it with the seller. You must not use the 8P version as it puts a strain on the floorpan either side of the seam where it is not strong enough whereas the 8V version only lifts ON the seam.
 

MrLapou

Registered User
Save your money...Do not need pads. All that is required is a block of wood that sits behind and proud of the seam. 30mm x30mm x 150mm.
Used this method many times on Mk5 and 7 Golf plus 8P A3.


GTI_jacking_fBlkPlacement.jpg
 

glospete

Registered User
That is exactly where you SHOULD NOT jack up an 8V - Doh! There is a fundamental change between the 8P (where your idea is right) and the 8V which must be jacked up using the seam not the area either side. If you don't believe me just feel how flimsy the floor pan is either side of the seam on an 8V. Of course you can jack up on the seam without a jack pad but for £5 it helps to centre the trolley jack on the seam.
 

barboy

Registered User
Yes I have the Clarke 1.25 ton version which is fine as I'm only ever lifting one side at a time. You definitely need the one shown for the 8V as I developed it with the seller.
That's good enough recommendation for me!
Many thanks glospete
Regards
BARRY
 
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