it's about time to start my own s3 build thread

[S.]

Here you go mate.
Yes got the new one, my engine mount was slightly different.
You need to confirm you got the right engine side mount, the transmition one is ok.
Here's the link for the engine mount inserts.
They do the black series too.
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/blog/nl2017-38-vag-pq35-golf-56-a3-tt-etc

 

[HHS3]

This sounds like the perfect solution for me so thanks for the link mate, much appreciated.

Just to confirm that I've understood it all correctly, you bought a new OEM engine and transmission mount and then the two corresponding Powerflex inserts to go with them, roughly how much are the new OEM engine and transmission mounts please?

Cheers.

 

[S.]

Old transmition side mount and new engine side mount as that was different.
Prices go from 50£ up depending which manufacturer you go for.

 

[HHS3]

Ok cool, thanks S.

Last question sorry, so you kept your old transmission mount but got a new engine mount as it was different, what do you mean by different? As in the OEM engine mount doesn't work with the Powerflex insert? So you got a different engine mount which would work, if so could you link that as well please?

 

[S.]

No problem mate, I'm here to help.
There are few types of OEM engine mounts. The part that bolts on the chasis is same i think on all of them but the part that engine mounts on is different. They look very similar but the locking part from powerflex doesn't fit over it because of it's shape. So basicly powerflex locking part has circular cut over that arm and thats the type i needed and mine had rectangular part. Similar in size but obviously different shapes so couldn't lock the parts. Didn't want to cut the powerflex insert so opted for engine mount.
I think there's a picture on powerflex instructions what engine mount should look like and part numbers their inserts work with.
I guess facelift has different engine mount but can't confirm that as i've not seen prefacelift engine mount on a prefacelift car.

The transmition mount seems to be only one type.

Hope it helps.

 

[HHS3]

Perfect, thanks for all of the information bud

 

[leshkin]

I've heard that VibraTechincs engine mounts are meant to be the best, with minimal engine vibrations. They so cost quite a bit more though.

 

[samuelh_888]

It gets worse by the time/milage.
I remember when i first upgraded clutch it was perfect but over the time i started to hate my own car because i couldn't drive it properly.

^^ Exactly this, and you have the input shaft mod details I'm after too! I guess you're nearly a year in to the mod, how is it holding up?

 

[S.]

^^ Exactly this, and you have the input shaft mod details I'm after too! I guess you're nearly a year in to the mod, how is it holding up?

Yes i do
I think i wrote all the details at the time i did the mod as i knew about it but there was no info available about the parts. So anyone in need could read it and give it a go if he's brave enough
I was gathering info about a year and then when i had turbo refurbished i gave it a go.
Since then i've added engine mount inserts from powerflex and it's still perfect as day one.
Super fast and reliable shifts at the redline everytime.
Before the mod i hated driving the car even cosidered selling it because of the gearbox issues...

 

[fernando young]

Here you go mate.
Yes got the new one, my engine mount was slightly different.
You need to confirm you got the right engine side mount, the transmition one is ok.
Here's the link for the engine mount inserts.
They do the black series too.
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/blog/nl2017-38-vag-pq35-golf-56-a3-tt-etc

got those a few months ago, simple solution without spending big cash, but i got the wrong one for the engine mount, luckily nothing that a blade cant fix

 

[S.]

got those a few months ago, simple solution without spending big cash, but i got the wrong one for the engine mount, luckily nothing that a blade cant fix

Yeah me too. I got another engine mount with that shape from tts i think and fitted it. Now they released version for our type of engine mount.
It's best of two worlds. Stiffer mounts with no extra vibrations. And the price makes it deff a winner.

 

[S.]

It's been a while.
Not much being done.
Anyway, coilpacks refreshed with new "R8" NGK (old ones were 11 years old).
Feels smoother but i guess it would feel smoother with new regular ones too.
Added a new airbox to the old itg maxogen cold air intake.
Had to replace the windscreen too.

Still can't fix the cold idle issue.

 

[Adamj]

Great thread bro! I like that air box! Where did you get it? Saves the intake sucking in hot air

 

[S.]

Great thread bro! I like that air box! Where did you get it? Saves the intake sucking in hot air

Thanks.
It's 3d printed.
Eliminated heatsoak quite well.

 

[Bluepower]

Nice airbox! care to share the design drawings??

 

[fernando young]

what material have you used to print that? ABS?

 

[S.]

Nice airbox! care to share the design drawings??

You mean the actual print file?

 

[S.]

what material have you used to print that? ABS?

ABS should work too as that part of the engine when inspected didn't reach more than 60°C.
But i can't stand the ABS fumes.
I used GreenTec Pro from Extrudr. About twice the price of ABS/ASA but much higher strenght, impact resistance and temperature resistance.

 

[Bluepower]

You mean the actual print file?

Yes please. if you don't mind?
Buddy of mine has a printer, maybe he can/will print me one too to try?!

 

[fernando young]

on my rs3, i made an inlet guide to my intake, but started to deform with the time, it was made out of HIPS filament

 

[S.]

on my rs3, i made an inlet guide to my intake, but started to deform with the time, it was made out of HIPS filament

That's why i'm testing this material this way.
It wasn't post proceeded with high temp epoxy or anything else and it's 1.8 mm shell.
Want to see if constant temperature changes and weather changes will have negative impact on the part.
Hips doesn't have that high temperature resistance and it's soluble in gasoline and lemonene.
Also thin long parts have tendency to deform, that's why oem air feed has twi reinforcing bars in the middle to avoid deforming.

 

[S.]

She's still a beauty.

 

[S.]

It's been a while.
car doesn't get used much but that doesn't mean things can't go wrong.
it's on 106k km.
Last summer it got new aircon motor and condenser along with a new aircon pipe.
With the addition of the new 65mm drop in intercooler with inlet air guide fins.
Not to long after, in september, car started using more oil, and finally started engine light flashing and running on 3 cylinders.
Spark plug no.1 had oil over it.
Clear indicator that it's not good.
Inspeciton gave 0 compression in cyl. no.1.
After stripping the engine, it was clear that piston has gone. Thankfully walls were good enough and the block could be rebuilt.
So we went for JE ultra series pistons with 9.5 compression with bar-tek riffle drilled xbeam conrods, arp bolts, acl bearings all good for 500+bhp.
Injectors were sent to bar-tek and tested cleaned and rebuilt.
Along with that we changed bunch of sensors and vacuum pipes.
Head was also ispected and rebuilt (no uprated parts).
New chain and tensioner.
We decided to remove balance shafts with vis bsd freewheel.
Lpfp internals were swapped for bar-tek (dw) uprated one (500+bhp capable).
Hpfp had 5mm inled valve mod done to relieve lpfp side (runs on lower duty cycle).
After that smoke test revealed that alu turbo outlet pipe was leaking boost, so decided to ditch that weak part and make it future proof.

After rebuild it had 1200km runing in period with 600ish km below 2500rpm, rest up to 3500rpm.
Recently it had oil change for fuchs titan race pro s 5w40 ester oil.

 

[S.]

A while back i did a centre dash 3d scan to make a canchecked mfd15 multi gauge mount.
Something like "porsche chronograph".
Photos of the actual process, digital model, placement ideas and a quick printed prototype/stencil to check the fitment behind the air vents.