Issues fitting coilovers A4 B7

cpbrad

Registered User
I have a set of coilovers which I attempted to fit with a mate (mechanic).

The top pinch bolt on the front suspension on both sides was totally seized up, couldn't budge it one bit. Going to have another go in a couple of weeks. I may end up cutting it out, although I don't particularly want to do that.

Anyone else had this problem, how did you overcome it?
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Cut it out buy new
First thing I get from Audi as there always a **** to get out.
 

ajax1976

Registered User
As long as you haven't damaged them I'd leave them well alone. There's no need to remove them to fit coilovers unless you're changing arms etc.

This is how I do it, it's also quite a bit quicker if you've got basic mechanical skills and the right tools.

1) Jack up and support the car from the sill, subframe or both and remove the wheel.

2) Feed small ratchet straps up through the spring, I use two opposite each other. No need to tighten them just yet.

3) Put jack under the hub and jack it up to compress the spring, take it high enough so as you just start to take the weight of the axle stands.

4) Tighten the ratchet straps to keep the spring compressed the lower the hub(releasing the jack). I use straps btw as my spring compressors are too bulky to get in the right place, straps are easier and I can hold nearly all the coils of the springs. The more of the spring you can hold the better, makes the next bits easier.

5) Slacken and remove the lower strut nut and bolt.

6) You'll need push up on the strut, compressing it whilst pushing the hub down a bit to lift the fork of the strut of the lower arm.

7) Open the bonnet and remove the three top mount bolts, good if you have an assistant as the strut assembly will drop a bit or you can support it with something.

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Now you should be able to swing the upper mount down and out of the wheel arch whilst it's still connect by the upper arms, this will give you access to the strut top mount. Undo and remove the top nut then you can take the strut and spring away from the car to changeover.

9) Just reverse the above to install the new bits. If you're putting normal springs on you'll need to compress them before refitting, you can use normal spring compressors on to compress it then stick the straps on it to hold and remove the compressors. It's much easier if you're doing coilovers as you can just wind the spring down instead of compressing the spring.

I might have missed a few wee bits and bobs but that's the basics, not a hard job and certainly easier than touching the pinch bolts!! Gives a shout if there's anything you're not sure about.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Okay ajax thanks for the detailed guide. I'll show it to my mate and see what he thinks.

I'll buy two new pinch bolts incase I we do end up cutting them out anyway as I doubt they cost much.
 

ajax1976

Registered User
Cool mate, even cutting them doesn't necessarily mean they'll come out easy tho. The last ones I did the bolt was actually bent which made it a complete bitch and once you've committed there's no going back.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Thanks for the advice ad help. All fitted a couple weeks back now :)
 
Which method did you employ in the end ? ( am going to change springs (erm..... in the spring) Roughly how long did the job take?

Thanks in advance
 

cpbrad

Registered User
I got a mate to do it for me without me in the end. He said it was a ******* nightmare tbh. Mainly due to those pinch bolts. Took him around 9 hours I'd say lol
 
thanks for the reply, better set aside a clear weekend then ! Just in case !
 

Whopper

Registered User
What you need is a heat inducer! Comes straight out!! Failing that your in for a PITA
 

Roots

Registered User
What if coilovers did you use? I'm looking at getting some in march and thought my fabia was a pita, then I saw this audi setup today and pooed my pants
 

chris199

Registered User
Head inducer, or using the gas I find usually helps pinch bolts are never easy there always a b*****d to remove as I am a mechanic, if you know your going to need to remove them try soaking in wd40 or finlube or some sort of penetrating fluid for an hour or so and that helps allot and then just work the bolt in and out as your removing it.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
They are AP coilovers.

Right can someone help me.. I've spent 4 hours trying to set them to the correct height front and rear.

I have counted each individual threads to ensure they will be level bit still the drivers side of the car appears 20mm lower than the passenger's side. I do not understand why this is... I have had coils before on previous cars and set them up the same way but never measured the ground to the arch, wish I never did now. According to the tape measure I will have to set each side at different heights so the car sits level, that cannot be right...

Can someone please help. And there's nothing in the car...!?!?!?!?!
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
mine were set to different heights and car was level

only way to get it to sit right.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Surely that cannot be right what you have done.. That would mean the geometry will be all out of sync.. Fixed height springs and shocks are all identical sizes, as I'm fronts are the same and rears are the same.

Just measured a few cars in the streets and none were identical all the way around. All differed by at least 12mm.

Maybe they are fine, the engine will be different weight from right to left and I guess wear in things like the bushes will also contribute..

Anyone else have any thoughts??
 

ajax1976

Registered User
It's not uncommon tbh mate to have them set at different heights to get the car level. I'd be very surprised if the weight distribution is equally split left to right, for example If it's a 2wd I think the fuel tank sits more to the drivers side so something like quantity of fuel can alter the balance. Pretty sure mine were 10mm out, left to right when I first fitted then I just tweeked them to get the arch gaps equal by eye.
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I did as above

then had it tracked up.

but yours will need tracking etc anyway so get it sat so your happy and get it aligned
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Yeah that's what I was going to do when it's how I want it and prior to my new rubber..

I'll let it settle over the next week and then check again. I don't want to have unequal struts though I can't believe that that is ant good for the performance of the car...

Am I talking ****** or does anyone understand where coming from?

P.s - where's the best place to purchase new or preferably reconditioned turbos?
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
that's just the way it is

you cant set them by counting the adjusting threads
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
theres loads of places to get your turbo refurbed

midland turbo is just one place I use but theres quite a few
 

Matt10160

Registered User
If you have a car 'set up' to corner weights i guarantee none of the coils would be near each other, the idea behind them being adjustable is to balance the cars weight evenly! You can get closer by measuring arch to floor than you can by counting threads
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Okay, looks like I'll just re adjust them next week then I guess.. Them again I have half a tank of fuel I'm it so when that goes it will be uneven again... Ah what ever... I'll have a think lol

As for the turbo refurbishment, I'm hoping to buy a refurbed one and part x mine. I can't have my car off the road for that long..

I tried turbo technics but they have none in stock atm.

I don't really trust all the little companies as I don't want ****** parts in the turbo.. I'll have to keep checking turbo technics I guess

Thanks for the help though guys :)
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
midland turbo aint a little company and I would rate them better that TT
like above theres quite a few places for them not little places either.

plus most can turn a refurb around in 3 days from pick up to re delivery.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Okay, that is very true, I guess. I will re adjust them then.. I'm out voted haha
 

cpbrad

Registered User
O right, I'll give them a call tomorrow then, thanks mate
 

cpbrad

Registered User
theres loads of places to get your turbo refurbed

midland turbo is just one place I use but theres quite a few

Hades, thanks for pointing me there direction. They've made me a happy man :) I'm getting a recon turbo, will still be good for a stage 1 remap won't it?
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Turbo ordered, i have also ordered a oil feesd pipe, the guy who worked in the garage said not to worry about the oil return pipe.. Plus it's £97..

What do you think..

Can't wait to have it mapped now, also ordered a decat :)
 

SDHA4SLine

Registered User
Turbo ordered, i have also ordered a oil feesd pipe, the guy who worked in the garage said not to worry about the oil return pipe.. Plus it's £97..

What do you think..

Can't wait to have it mapped now, also ordered a decat :)
Holy moly! Having my new turbo fitted next Monday, hope they are only fitting oil feed pipe :tapedshut:
 

hades-

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Turbo ordered, i have also ordered a oil feesd pipe, the guy who worked in the garage said not to worry about the oil return pipe.. Plus it's £97..

What do you think..

Can't wait to have it mapped now, also ordered a decat :)
where are you from ?

I can point you in the direction of the lad that maps all my cars if your not to far away
 

cpbrad

Registered User
where are you from ?

I can point you in the direction of the lad that maps all my cars if your not to far away

I'm from bedfordshire. I am planning on going to up to liescester to get r tech to map it. That's who mapped my dad's VRS and they rolling road it beofre and after..

Who is this guy anyway?
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Never buying coils again, tried to level them off three toilets now and they are still around 5 mm out. Driving me mad!

Sticking to fixed rate springs and shocks from now on!

I may just go and get the alignment done and leave them as they are tbh, surely that's the most important thing, right??
 

SDHA4SLine

Registered User
Never buying coils again, tried to level them off three toilets now and they are still around 5 mm out. Driving me mad!

Sticking to fixed rate springs and shocks from now on!

I may just go and get the alignment done and leave them as they are tbh, surely that's the most important thing, right??

"Level them off three toilets" :lmfao::lmfao::lmfao::lmfao::lmfao:

Sorry to make light of your annoyance, you've put me off now. Don't fancy all the mucking about at all...
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Haha lol.

Get them if you want to stance your car, if not, I really wouldn't bother mate.
 

ajax1976

Registered User
Never buying coils again, tried to level them off three toilets now and they are still around 5 mm out. Driving me mad!

Sticking to fixed rate springs and shocks from now on!

I may just go and get the alignment done and leave them as they are tbh, surely that's the most important thing, right??

So are you saying fixed rate springs would level the car?

I don't understand how you're having so much difficulty. I'm assuming you realise that due to the geometry that winding the coils by say 10mm does not raise or lower by 10mm? For example 10mm on the coils could be 15mm or more at the wheel.
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Yes.

Yeah I realise that, that's why it's so painful.. Doing minor adjustments and then putting the wheel back on and settling the suspension and finding out that I'm still 3mm out, whether it's 3mm too much or not enough.. So time consuming, it was fun the first two times but now I'm just getting ****** off with them.

One more try next weekend or if I finish work early enough tomorrow.

Any advice on doing it a better way?
 

cpbrad

Registered User
I meant four fixed rate springs and fixed rate shocks, one at each corner which are set up and simply just need to be fitted would level off the car
 

ajax1976

Registered User
Yes.

Yeah I realise that, that's why it's so painful.. Doing minor adjustments and then putting the wheel back on and settling the suspension and finding out that I'm still 3mm out, whether it's 3mm too much or not enough.. So time consuming, it was fun the first two times but now I'm just getting ****** off with them.

One more try next weekend or if I finish work early enough tomorrow.

Any advice on doing it a better way?

Been there so many times mate. Lost count of the times mine have been up and down as I was constantly playing with my ride height, I had to do it at my work as mine my drive is far from flat.
For your 3mm, Are you just adding or removing 3mm from one side or adding 1.5mm on one side and removing 1.5mm from the other?
 

cpbrad

Registered User
Well I started by just trying to add or take 3 mm from one side but this didn't seem to work so I lowered one side and added to the other and this was getting closer but it got dark too quick and I was out there with a torch and decided to call it a day..

I'll probably see it in the light tomorrow and it will be all over the shop haha!
 
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