To be honest dude, I can't remember exactly where those earth points come from, or what they are for. But I believe that they are the main engine loom earth points. As Bill said,
I tried to look on VAG CAT mate, but I can't get on to the EPC for some reason.... Phone Audi is your best bet.
are these the modules? if so which ones the fuel relay?? the 4 wires under the battery tray the earth wire from battery to engine looks ok
The oil on the plugs will be from a leaking cam cover gasket. It pools up around the plug a little so when you unscrew them the oil runs onto the plug giving the impression there is an internal engine problem. Fuel pump relay should be the 4th slot from the left which would be the one with "167" written on it. Rest your finger on it as you prime the pump. You'll feel it click inside. Also there will be a red/yellow wire connected to it.
just a quick update, took apart the battery tray to get to the 4 earths again gave them a very good clean! i also ran the car and unplugged each earth in time but couldnt get engine to cut out. spent ages waggling around differnt wires checking for loose conections. the car hasnt cut out now for 200ish miles so perhaps it was the 4 connectors but im still unsure, i will be replacing the fuel relay just for the sake of it as im trying to sell my car at the mo and dont want to sell it with any problems!!!
p.s if it does cut out before the fuel relay is put in then people are still in the runnings for the tenner :thumbsup:will keep you all posted as someone might find this thread very use full in years to come as i know how many hours i have spend searching many forums trying to find the answer!
ok found something interesting on my lunch break. if i clear all error codes and unplug the fuel pump relay and try to start the car, the exact same 6 error codes come up! aka sort to earths on all the injectors etc
Would throw a fault code for the sensor as well as cutting out next to all the time. I had a crank sensor pack up, and it was not a happy bunny. Good shout though. :thumbsup:
Good test - get a replacement for testing further. Also check the pins on the replay and the female side as well for corrosion.
my dads didnt throw a code on his a4. it would be fine for weeks then starts playing up again. it got worse and worse. Until my cousins uncle (indy mech) changed the sensor then it was cool. sounds similar just wonder if ur digging too deep mate. but im no mechanic just a guy who reads forums alot lol could get one from euro car parts or something n take it back if it dont make a diff. think u get a couple of weeks
That's a fair point mate, I guess the don't always throw codes, as is true with all sensors. However, the crank sensor dying intermittently wouldn't give the fault codes that are being given by the ECU.
if it cats out randomly is more then likely the cranck or cam sensore it want cum up with anyfaults while running!shouldn t be to expensive to replace/
Are you people actually reading the first page discussion, or Z's findings today? LOL. 99% of the time the crank sensor or hall sensor will throw a fault code when failed.
Unsure if this is related, but had the same problem with a peugeot i owned. It also seemed as if it had ran out of petrol, and if i pumped the throttle it would back fire. When it first started it, if i unscrewed the petrol cap (sounds daft i know) it would run enough to get me home, leave it for an hour and car ran fine again. I found in the end it was the fuel pump, replaced it problem solved.
once i have replaced fuel relay i will drive 500miles if it doesntcut out the first person that mentioned the relay will get it
yer half my mind wants to give it to you welly as this isnt the first time you have helped out!!! if ya ever need my help give us a shout!
