intermittant problem! anyone that works it out succesfully will get £10 via paypal!!!

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zeeeebo

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was just dring along at 40mph when car decided to act like it was out of petrol and died, pulled over to side of road and tried to start back up as i knew i had petrol, nothing. starter motor would turn but not kick in.

i had a mini diagnostic on board so scanned it and 7 returned results:

fuel injector into cylinder 1-01249
fuel injector into cylinder 2-01250
fuel injector into cylinder 3-01251
fuel injector into cylinder 4-01252
Maf sensor-16486
Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control-01262
and also something about oxygen lambor snsor but cant rember code number.

there were no codes stored before this happened!

I took the battery out and also the tray under the battery and found 4 wires connected to the chasis, i cleaned all these up. i also cleaned an earth on the rocker cover. the car worked fine for about 3 days then cut out again! i waited 5 mins and then worked again!!!

when the car does cut out, when you try to turn the engine over you only get the starter motor, you cant hear any prime or anything. if you wait a few mins then you hear it prime on second position and then it will kick in!


i have taken to garage and they couldnt find anything as it was intermitant. i did a full service today and the spark plugs were drenched in oil. i have also noticed the occasional back fire if i tap the accelerator. but i am running a straight through from the cat. do you think my revo has anything to do with this intermitant problem?
 
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when it does die, you cant hear the fuel pump prime, then you wait a few mins and then it primes ok and starts! really odd and no pattern as sometimes you can do 150 miles and sometimes 20
 
i have checked the fuses in engine bay and also by door, its a fairly new fuel filter, it wouldnt explain why it would throw up those fault codes as if it was the filter it would think its just ran out of battery
 
where abouts is it? also could it be related to the codes that come up each time ?
 
follow the larger earth from the battery to the chassis and to the bell housing clamp bolt..
possible disconnection there
 
i had this on my old car, eventaully it packed up all together and wouldnt restart, we replaced the fuel pump and relay and this sorted it, sorry i cant be any more help but check pump relay and the pump itself:icon_thumright:
 
It sounds like the classic fuel pump problem mate.
When the pump cools down it works again.

Ive done a few recently in work throughout the vag range.
 
do they all get a tenner if it is your fuel pump?


i think fuel pump to yeh yeh....
 
but would a fuel pump bring up those error codes? i cleared the codes and unpluged the fuel pump while car was on, car died and then i read the codes. none turned up. if it is the fuel pump the first person who said it gets a tenner ( future)
 
i would guess either voltage supply relay or water in the ecu
 
the battery is newish! where is the ecu? is it in the scuttle pannel?
 
Ecu's under the scuttle mate. worth a check.
If the injectors dont get the required pressure they wont open, IIRc there 2 stage.

The maf an n75 codes could just be sporadic, and the lambda could be due to the mixture leaning off before it cuts out.
 
it threw up different codes today but still the 4 injector ones and the boost solinoid.
how would i check the ecu?
also sometimes it does 150miles before it cuts out other times its about 5! its such a frustrating problem and is costing me alot as the garage charged me a bomb and they couldnt find the problem! the other garage thought they found it and it ran well for 100 odd miles then died!
 
You cant check the ecu easily yourself mate... Other than a visual check. Pop the connector/ connectors off and check for signs of moisture ingress.
(white powder/ water residue etc) If your electronically minded, you could pop the back cover off, look around for any dry joints
 
i would be looking at the fuel pump relay (j17) and wiring because the fuel pump relay sends power to the fuel pump, injectors, lambda, maf and n75 boost control valve
 
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where is it located mate? and what will i be looking for
 
i think its near the steering coloum. its a little box about 1 inch by 1 inch and will click when you turn the ignition on then click again 2 seconds later.

if i was you i would buy a new one and try it, they are about a tenner i think.
 
I'm with bad earth.

Bad earth will always cause all sort of weird issues - normally unexplainable problems with anything electrical, including causing the fuel pump to fail to start.

The interesting thing to me here is that you cleaned up the earth point underneath the battery tray, and then it began to work OK for a few days.

If I were you, to either confirm or deny, buy a cheap and sh*tty earth strap (like http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Auto-Car-Meta...arParts_SM&hash=item19bbb856a6#ht_2319wt_1165, but not from Hong Kong) and run it bolted to the gearbox somewhere and touching the floor.

This should, if earthing is the problem, allow the excess voltage to earth off, and stop all your problems. If that's the case, you at least know what you are dealing with.

That's what I'd do anyway, you can at least eliminate earth issues as the problem.
 
ok welly ill try that and also the fuel relay. is the ecu relay near the fuel relay
 
Just to be different, ignition amplier module:happy:


I thought this, The Final Output Stage Module on the AGU can pack up - but you would be suffering misfires, not fuelling problems. The injectors would still be working, but the coils not firing.
 
when i changed the pulgs on saturday i noticed they were drenched in oil! i think the car is running very rich, this may have something to do with it or not at all!
 
when i changed the pulgs on saturday i noticed they were drenched in oil! i think the car is running very rich, this may have something to do with it or not at all!

Possibly a side effect of the problem, a bad earth can cause untold sorts of problems. Could be that the coils aren't firing as well as they could be due to unstable electrical system.... Maybe.
 
hmm might take the tray off again and have another look as its weird that it improved the problem a bit! ill also look at getting the strap and relay and start ruling out different things
 
Absolutely, it's no good tackling things like this 'Bull in a china shop' styleeee, you need to methodical and patient, and use the 'Process of elimination' method....

Which I agree sucks. lol.
 
yer does suck, is very time cinsuming and expensive!! dont suppoose you know what the 4 earthing points are for under the tray??
 
sorry for realy late reply...it wasnt on my s3 this time and didnt have it scanned it at the time, but the issues were exactly the same as yours, could do it after about 5/10miles and then it could go after 100/150 was realy intermittent. I thnk it was the relay tht had the problem iirc and this slowly caused the pump to f**k up aswell :(
 
mines an a3 but yer i will be changin the fuel relay and have a drive see what happens then also put the earth on! would like to find out what the 4 earths are so i can unplug each one while car is on and try and make it die and throw the same fault codes up so then i canrule them out
 
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