Instrument Cluster wiring - Help :(

[wrightyrx7]

Hi all,

My original problem/thread: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-sportback-8p-chassis/207118-audi-a3-sportback-problem-video.html

1. Well my cluster has been to BBA-Reman they said the instrument cluster tested fine.
2. Took car to a VW/Audi spicialised garage. Who told me the problem is definitely the instrument cluster.
3. Sent my instrument cluster back to BBA-Reman with in information gained from the garage. Also adding that it is an intermittent problem, and also sending the pictures of my findings inside the cluster (below). Called me back today saying it tested fine.

Now I'm at a dead end, frustrated and don't know what to do.

BBA-Reman told me to check the wiring to the Instrument Cluster. Anyone know how i got about this because you can only see a short part of the wire when taking out in instrument cluster.

 

[JRock247]

Hi Mate, just had my clocks change by @udi A3. He's got a ton of knowledge of these clusters, drop him a PM and he may be able to help you out.

 

[wrightyrx7]

Hi JRock,

I have spoke with @udi A3. He said he only has a spare red cluster at the minute, mine is white. And if I find one then he can fit it.

Now im wondering if the problem is with my instrument cluster if BBA have said twice that its fine.

 

[JRock247]

Possible a loose/dodgy connection somewhere but will take time to isolate where it is.

Best bet is get yourself VCDS (or someone with it), Mulitmeter and if you can, buy/borrow another cluster and start testing and checking from the cluster and work your way back through the wiring.

In your Video, when you push on the cluster it powers up, so possible a loose/dodgy connection with the plug or wiring harness in the back of the cluster.

Where about's are you located?

 

[fangio]

I'm no expert, but in your second picture, the inner of the two large soldered joints within the marked square has the appearance of a dry joint?

 

[wrightyrx7]

Possible a loose/dodgy connection somewhere but will take time to isolate where it is.

Best bet is get yourself VCDS (or someone with it), Mulitmeter and if you can, buy/borrow another cluster and start testing and checking from the cluster and work your way back through the wiring.

Its going to take some work, but I have no choice its been in a garage and the cluster has been to BBA (twice). I want to try all I can before my last resort, which is paying a ridiculous amount for Audi to have a look.

In your Video, when you push on the cluster it powers up, so possible a loose/dodgy connection with the plug or wiring harness in the back of the cluster.

Where about's are you located?

Its strange isnt it how the power comes on when I push that button. I have tried tricking the car by pushing the button and trying to start the car (didnt work).

Im in Manchester.

I'm no expert, but in your second picture, the inner of the two large soldered joints within the marked square has the appearance of a dry joint?

I know Fangio, I sent them pictures to BBA with the cluster, but when I spoke to them today it sounded like they hadnt even took notice of them.

 

[fangio]

Just go round the rough looking joints with a soldering iron, not leaving the heat on too long. Just enough to make the solder flow. What have you got to lose?
It sounds as though you are flexing the board and making good a bad contact.

 

[hollows wife]

i would try to reflow the board with a heatgun maybe . maybe a dry joint around the micronas chip . just noticed in your pictures that the crystal and the resistor near the micronas look as though they have been re-soldered . this is a sign of mileage repair . dash programming .

 

[JRock247]

i would try to reflow the board with a heatgun maybe . maybe a dry joint around the micronas chip .

I wouldn't advise re-flowing the solder yourself unless you are confident in doing that, you could potentially do more damage than good.

Remember, if you damage the board any further it could lead to you not being able to use the car and forcing to buy a new cluster as I 'doubt' audi will repair, most likely just replace unless there is an obvious easy fix.

Give it a go if you feel confident but doubt that is casing the issue you are seeing, why would pushing on the cluster make it work if it was a bad solder joint?

 

[@udi A3]

As said, there is defo signs of soldering there. Dry joints on the pads are unlikely to be an issue, most points commented on are indeed the points you need to solder when reading on the bench. I would prefer to think its lost all keys at some point and needed reading this way, mileage can be corrected by obd.

I have located a 2litre tdi white dash if you are interested from a 2011 car. I think fitting another dash will rule it out, but without seeing the car myself its very hard to say whats up.

 

[hollows wife]

i myself i should say would try to reflow it . if there is a cracked joint on the board then flexing it will make/break a connection.

old way before the likes of obd mileage correction tools like the r250 were needed and connections were made at exactly these points

 

[wrightyrx7]

Hi guys,

I think the video may look like I'm pushing on the cluster but I'm actually pressing the button that you use to set the clock.

fangio
Just go round the rough looking joints with a soldering iron, not leaving the heat on too long. Just enough to make the solder flow.

So just melt the solder to sit more even?

hollow
i would try to reflow the board with a heatgun maybe . maybe a dry joint around the micronas chip . just noticed in your pictures that the crystal and the resistor near the micronas look as though they have been re-soldered . this is a sign of mileage repair . dash programming

Hollow is it the two white components in my 3rd picture you are referring to? This is what i thought the cause may be. Are them two white components meant to look the same. Because it looks like there is no solder left on one of them when i was looking closely.

@udi A3
I have located a 2litre tdi white dash if you are interested from a 2011 car. I think fitting another dash will rule it out, but without seeing the car myself its very hard to say whats up.

Will the dash from a 2litre tdi (2011) fir in my 1.9tdi (2009)? I thought i would need to find one from a car 'same year' and 'same engine'?

 

[hollows wife]

yes just reflow the solder ,be careful with the surface mount components, they can be lifted off the board quite easily .

yes the 2 components . you could do with a multimeter on a continuity test .

the 2011 clocks should be fine for youre car .

 

[@udi A3]

Sorry im rubbish at whats uploading pics, but whatsapp'd you some .

From the history of water damage im going to say its highly unlikely that a reflow will fix it. The 2011 clocks should be fine. If you attempt to reflow be very careful to use good 60/40 solder and good quality braids and flux. very easy to lift components accidentally and damage with heat.

 

[hollows wife]

for the others with dash problems if you have this fault code then youre dash is ******** . saves you time looking for a solution and may keep your sanity .

18058 - powertrain data bus missing mesage from instrument cluster, P1650-35-10 intermittent

the only solution is another set of clocks and get them reprogrammed by mr a3

 

[wrightyrx7]

Hi hollow,

Got @udi A3 on the job. He is picking up the clocks tomorrow and fitting Saturday. Hopefully all goes well and fixes my problem.

 

[hollows wife]

mr a3 should sort them np .

 

[@udi A3]

Well, after messing about fitting some replacement clocks the fault looked like a bad earth. Swapped ecu out as there was a fault on that, not storing any milage, and couldn't replicate the fault.

However it appeared to have a swimming pool under the ecu wiring loom, so i suspect there is a bad corroded wire under there. Fingers crossed that's the issue, although the ecu has a fault still, looks like the clocks are ok after all!! Every days a school day!

 

[fangio]

Where is the swimming pool and how would the water get there?

A question for prevention, if possible.

 

[wrightyrx7]

Under the ECU but the cables from the ECU are sat in the water. It just gets there through the holes where the wiper blades poke through but its meant to drain away. Had a look this morning and cant see any drainage holes, guessing it should flow to the far left or right then off the edge.

 

[hollows wife]

just read your new post . all the warning lights on , on the dash . as in the mfd display cycling through them ? usually a duff ecu so at a guess the water under the ecu is causing problems . maybe damp in the ecu multi plugs . i would say its ecu related.

 

[@udi A3]

100% ECU has a fault. however until ecu is replaced and that eliminated, I dont think any more diagnostics work would be fruitful.
It would appear the ecu for this car is verging on hens teeth too.
Recommend buying one of the ones on ebay that have the immo defeated, see how that goes and then look to coding the ecu in.

Unfortunately not really a vcds job, but vag commander is good to do this.

 

[hollows wife]

do we have an ecu part no ?

 

[@udi A3]

03G906056s
036906021AB
EDC16U34
bosch 0281015208

BLS engine i think it was

 

[drewbagz]

Hey wright,
Did you resolve the problem in the end? I had the exact same intermittent fault with my car, had the cluster tested twice and fine, bought a spare from eBay to test and no joy either with that with only now the cluster doesn't work at all and has immobilised the car.

I'm suspecting the loom is the problem?

Thanks