Installing K&N Air Filter

That’s quite different to mine. Part number the same besides the letter at the end. Mine is F that is E.
This is the fit on my 2.0T. Part is from 4.2 RS4

eccd59c6f620f89062c9c798a4babafd.jpg

74f3112af1a42aca7e297dc72bd0c31c.jpg

b1ac1987632574319d23ccb720c682c5.plist
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ricky Burrows
It just sits in there. Doesn’t clip to anything


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Aren't these only made for the 4.2? Don't think any were made for the 2ltrs or TDIs. Cut outs for washer and pas fluid

What model is yours? It obviously fits a 2.0t.
I can see what the 2 round cut outs are for, it's the 2 on the edge I mean. One goes along side the header tank, what is the front side cut out for?
 
Last edited:
What model is yours? It obviously fits a 2.0t.
I can see what the 2 round cut outs are for, it's the 2 on the edge I mean. One goes along side the header tank, what is the front side cut out for?

The other cut out is for the dipstick on the B6 S4 V8.
Got mine from the dealer as you’ll see a few posts back
 
Talking air filters again when I bought my first mk1 tt the first mod i did was to remove the factory airbox and take a core drill to the underside so it looked like swiss cheese lol :grimacing::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
All because someone on the forum said that it would get the 225 to around 235 :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy: of course it didn't but no denying it instantly sounded better :hearteyes:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ricky Burrows and Charlie Farley
Talking air filters again when I bought my first mk1 tt the first mod i did was to remove the factory airbox and take a core drill to the underside so it looked like swiss cheese lol :grimacing::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
All because someone on the forum said that it would get the 225 to around 235 :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy: of course it didn't but no denying it instantly sounded better :hearteyes:

I did the same my 964 C4 airbox, let my holesaw loose on the main body, sounded awsome from the 3.6 flat 6 aircooled lump, didnt do much to the performance but you could hear it coming a mile away.:yahoo:

A very common mod on the aircooled NA 911's .:icon thumright:
 
As were on the subject off induction kits ect, i was having a look around the engine bay today and noticed theres a decent size hole in the panel where the stock air box was near the wing, you can push through and it feels like the arch liner at the bottom of the hole so i wondered if anyones ever thought of running a cold air intake to that hole? Or possibly put some fins in the wing itself to direct some extra cold air as it literally sits in front of my cone filter, anyone noticed this or exploited this possible option?
 
The stock air box draws air from the inner wheel arch aswell as the front grille Ricky.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gazwould
Which is also why the stock airbox works very, with the two intakes it draws in more than you'd think.
The front intake is more of a forced air intake whereas the wheel arch intake is more suction as it doesn't get air directly from the front when in forward motion.
 
Putting aside all our personal views on which panel filter to use and how effective they are versus effective cleaning , which ever option is chosen , the stock airbox is still a very effective part on the B7.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pie-eyedpiper
The volumetric size of the airbox is also something the years of research and development have dictated.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Charlie Farley
Have played about with k and n filters, pipercross etc for best part of 35 years.done rolling road comparisons on them all.conclusion is they offer more induction roar but no increase in performance bhp wise.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gazwould
With the b7 I've seen a slight improvement in throttle response, power wise though like any bolt on its not going to do anything drastic without a remap, I’ve got a few bolt ons and nothings made a noticeable improvement because its not mapped yet but either way induction kits look a lot better under the bonnet than the bulky plastic oem and the sound is just awesome so id always recommend getting one :)
 
Here you have it. Quite a long video, but the guy does some interesting experiments.
K&N's do increase airflow, but at the expense of filtration.
You can't have it both ways.

 
  • Like
Reactions: BakPak and Gazwould
Sounds familiar :welcoming:



Fb449f0b24644eb492b2ddb5fb1ebc23



.. "which investigated the high failure rates of modern MAF sensors. Several factors where involved which revealed what many have suspected all along.

Higher air flow capability with the K&N is the result of larger pores in the filter media to offset the smaller total area when compared to any OEM filter. Oil is used to help trap the dirt when it comes in contact with the filter media. One of the aspects of this design allows what is referred to as "Tracking" where certain regions of the filter media as a result of internal air box flow patterns directs particles to specific regions of the filter more than others. What occurs next is those regions lose the oil saturation to the increased dirt loading allowing particles in the 90 micron range to pass through the media since there is no longer any more residual oil in the local pores.

Oil migration. Oil migration occurs when the motor is in warm climates and/or operating at high engine speeds where the volume of air passing accross the filter carries small amounts of oil into the air stream post filter which is now entering the motor.

Particles less than 90 microns... Pull a hair out of your head and push it through the filter media, if it passes through you have a filter with pores GREATER than 100 Microns in size! This is the primary issue with MAF sensors. MAF sensors rely on filtration quality that captures 95% of all particles greater in size than 15 microns. Ideally 10 micron capability would result in longer life but now the physical size of the filter is increased to offset the fine fitlering capability when using conventional or synthetic fibers in an "Un-Oiled" air filter.



attachment.php

attachment.php


MAF air flow sensor design. MAF sensors use micrscopic heating elements placed on a circuit board. The heating element provides a constant rise in temperature to provide a known condition for the ECU to calculate air flow. On the leading edge of the MAF sensor is a temperature sensor which measures the temperature of the air passing over the leading edge, this temperature returns a value to the ECU. As the air passes over the heated portion of the MAF sensor heat is transmitted to the air stream thus heating it. As the air passes accross the back portion of the sensor a second temperature reading is taken. Higher flow rates result in lower temperature rise, lower flow rates result in higher temperature rises.

Another aspect of the MAF sensor is static build up on the leading edge of the sensor element. This static charge causes small particles of dirt and debris to adhere to the elements leading edge distorting the laminar flow characteristics of the sensor throwing off the temeperature readings take accross the elements surface. Over time rotors form accross the back side of the build up depositing oil, dirt and anything else that is in the slip stream directly onto the heating elements surface. What happens next is that the oil/dirt or any combination of the two insulates the heating element causing it to overheat and short out. The result is a complete loss of data to the ECU causing it to revert to default values stored as a limp home function.

The precursor to the failure is often a reduction in peformance as a result of inaccurate thermal readings accross the sensor plate. As the dirt accumulates power typically drops off until the heating element fails.


attachment.php



attachment.php

attachment.php




attachment.php

attachment.php



attachment.php


OEM air filters believe it or not out perform K&N in all aspects. This is easily done by using filter media which has much smaller pore size (5 microns on "average") this allows typical filtration to hit the 10-15 micron range with the 95% effective range. However the fine filtration capabily results in more restriction, the restriction is offset by increasing the depth and number of the pleats the media uses. The biggest advantage to this is that the OEM filters are able to go 50,000-100,000 miles between changes WITHOUT resulting in any increases of restriction or worse yet ALLOWING MORE DIRT TO GET IN THE MOTOR! OEM filters REGARDLESS of miles or time in use perform as well or BETTER the more they are used again up until the reach the maximum restriction point (15" or 25" WC).

Most OEM air filters have anywhere between 1-4" water colum of restriction when new. A fitler is considered to be "Loaded" when restriction reaches 15" WC on naturally aspirated motors and 25"WC on turbo or supercharged vehicles. Regardless of how dirty the filter may look provided restriction does not exceed the above numbers the filter is providing 95% efficiency at removing all particles greater than 10-15 microns.

Bottom line is that using any type of high flow filter that does not meet the 95% filtering capability at 15 microns is asking for trouble.

Call K&N and ask them what their filtering efficiency is at 15 microns and if they will warranty the MAF if it becomes contaminated and burns out... I will save you the time, they will laugh at you and not do a thing."






index.php


attachment.php
 
  • Like
Reactions: BakPak, Charlie Farley and Pie-eyedpiper
Well it's like we allways say " personal Choice" on this subject like many other upgrades, downgrades and mods.
For me , if I was buying the new i'd leave it alone but since I bought an old car with so many other inherent engine design faults or problems areas , no point listing them all as we al know there's a lot, this area isn't going to really going to makes things any worse.

As soon as one get the tool box open and starts modifying bits on the engine, well on the whole car it is a downward spiral really, hence all own to the individual owner.

Nature of the beast .

have a good one.
 

Similar threads