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Good idea.
They set mine up and did the clutch for me so you know it will be done properly.
Imola Yellow S3
- Thread starter Samsellars
- Start date
Good idea.
They set mine up and did the clutch for me so you know it will be done properly.
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Haldex upgrade I thought was useful but only when the suspension and brakes etc are all done.
I got a Quaife LSD,but there are also ones from Wavetrac and Peloquin.
LSD tends to fight a bit with Audi's TC,and can understeer quite heavily on a wet or icy road,with the TC on.
I used to leave the TC off until we upgraded the ECU which can run far better software.
Should go ok with the all the suspension upgrades then, was just thinking may as well get it all done when I have the clutch sorted. I was looking at the quaife as its on offer at awesome for 750 ish which I didn't think is too bad can you remember rough fitting costs Alex? And with the haldex is the switch to toggle between the three modes the best as the wireless system seems expensive
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The price is about right from Awesome,and with fitting you'd be looking at around £1k all in.
Nice opportunity to get a look at the box internals too.
I wouldn't bother with the wireless switching....we went with a wired system.
You can get competition controller. No switch, it is always in race mode, and it doesn't dissengage rear axle. There's ocasional powerslide involved too.
Yes it does. But haldex can't send more than 50:50. What it does is that it keeps as much close as it can to 50:50 ratio. HPA has a great product info on their site with graphs.
Samsellars sorry for offtopic.
Gen2 is on prefacelift. Gen4 is on facelift.
On a normal drive it's not that noticeable. Acceleration feels different, its more the "push" from the back feeling, and its faster of the line. Never tried launching as it's not my thing, and i wouldn't want to break the propshaft but i'm pretty sure it kicks hard. It takes some of top speed but who cares about that!! Also consumption has gone up on motorway driving about a litre up.
But when giving it some on twisty roads there is where it shows its potential. Makes car more neutral when cornering, allowing more cornering speed, and control, and you can get on the throttle earlier. Eliminates further understeer and it's actually possible to do awd powerslides even on dry surface.
Also engine braking is more noticable because it doesn't dissengage rear axle.
Gen2 is on prefacelift. Gen4 is on facelift.
On a normal drive it's not that noticeable. Acceleration feels different, its more the "push" from the back feeling, and its faster of the line. Never tried launching as it's not my thing, and i wouldn't want to break the propshaft but i'm pretty sure it kicks hard. It takes some of top speed but who cares about that!! Also consumption has gone up on motorway driving about a litre up.
But when giving it some on twisty roads there is where it shows its potential. Makes car more neutral when cornering, allowing more cornering speed, and control, and you can get on the throttle earlier. Eliminates further understeer and it's actually possible to do awd powerslides even on dry surface.
Also engine braking is more noticable because it doesn't dissengage rear axle.
Gen 2 for gen 2, gen 4 for gen 4.
I think you would need to swap the whole diff for gen 4 if it's possible if you want gen 4. Visit the hpa site for details. I've got mine 2nd hand for a good price so i thought i'll give it a go.
I think you would need to swap the whole diff for gen 4 if it's possible if you want gen 4. Visit the hpa site for details. I've got mine 2nd hand for a good price so i thought i'll give it a go.
No problem, is it different from the switchable haldex controller, just I'd like to be able to go back to stock incase the heavens open or I need to do some boring motorway miles.
Think I've decided on the pro alloy intercooler, tte420 upgrade unsure on new or re-furb.
What lpfp's are everyone running?
And I see most are using the rs4 valve
Most seem to use the ttrs lpfp Alec runs dome sort of inline thing I think, apr do one too but u pay pay the apr premium,personally I'm going to use the bar-tek tuning version as its a fair bit cheaper ,
To go with the rs4 return valve you will also need the 155 bar fuel rail valve I believe
Are you able to elaborate at all regarding the latter please, as this is the first time I've heard of it? I'm only going to stage 2+ at some point of which the RS4 FPRV has been beneficial on some remapped cars, I'll be getting a custom map so it's definitely worth it for the sake of an extra £50. Anyhow, that only goes up 135 bar so what would be the need for the above? I've seen that you can also get a 155 bar FPRV for £180.
Some tuners use the rs4 return valve some don't ,
I don't have the technical knowledge to go into details but I would imagine it's something to do with getting enough fuel into the rail so it's not lean ,
But I'm sure one of the wizards will be along at some point @S3Alex
Rs4 Fpr gives more fuel. On most stage 2+ maps oem fpr can't supply requested fuel pressure. On stage 2+ it improves midrange torque and power, also sometimes on agressive stage 2+ settings there is a flat spot at 5000-5500 rpm, which you notice on wot, and fpr eliminates that flat spot.
Cool, thanks for bringing it to my attention anyway. I've compiled a list of absolutely everything I want/need to do to my car, so finding out if I also need the 155 bar fuel rail valve will be good to know.
This is what I had read elsewhere as well, which is why I want to get the RS4 Fuel Pressure Return Valve done but I had not heard of this Fuel Rail Valve before (unless it's the same thing but different terminology).
Nice to know cheers, just had the weirdest thing in the car on acceleration power cut out for like 1/2 second then back on causing it to jerk
Was going to order the haldex upgrade today, need to check if it's OBY or OBR. Is it only one code for the face lift or can it be either?
Im really looking forward it and also quite interested to see how much it makes when on the RR. Ordered the haldex upgrade today and Quaife LSD so gonna get it all fitted together
S
Standard K04
Milltek non res decat
Runner Flap Delete
Vw Racing Intake
KW DDC's
Vw Front Back Anti Roll Bars
Super Pro Anti Lift Kit
Vw BBK
Unsure if I should go TTE420 next or Owen developments :/
APR Stage 2+
Standard K04
Milltek non res decat
Runner Flap Delete
Vw Racing Intake
KW DDC's
Vw Front Back Anti Roll Bars
Super Pro Anti Lift Kit
Vw BBK
Unsure if I should go TTE420 next or Owen developments :/
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Haldex controller I think is a very subtle upgrade.
It's not night and day like the ARBs would be but does make a bit of difference although nowhere near as much as an LSD.
TTE 420 will give you much of the fun of a big turbo but without the rebuild costs or other hassles.
I'd go for that unless you're up for an engine rebuild and the costs of a full kit like the Nortech.
It's not night and day like the ARBs would be but does make a bit of difference although nowhere near as much as an LSD.
TTE 420 will give you much of the fun of a big turbo but without the rebuild costs or other hassles.
I'd go for that unless you're up for an engine rebuild and the costs of a full kit like the Nortech.
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Owen Developments have supplied me with 2 turbos so far,firstly the 3076 I upgraded to a couple of yrs ago,and then the M-Spec 3582 I have now.
These guys are superb,and Scott Hawkins in particular has been a great help in selecting the correct parts,as well as A/r and upgrades to the basic turbo spec.
Simon @ TTE is also excellent,and totally honest about their products.
Speak to both if you're thinking about this sort of thing.
Yeah it's such a tough decision, what sort of price range for forging the engine is what I couldn't find really, also what management are you running Alex
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You're looking at about £1.2 k for rods and pistons,plus a bit for bearing shells etc.
Then add in the same for labour.
PEC supplied mine
http://www.steelconrods.co.uk/index.php?cPath=22_28_85
IE also sell good parts.
http://www.performancebyie.com/
The costs mount up pretty fast,as you would also be looking at a big turbo plus kit to get the best from that lot,and then uprated LPFP etc etc as well.
I use a Syvecs ECU with their software.....it's an amazing piece of kit but not cheap,and certainly would get the most out of a good BT build.
