Images of how I installed a Blackvue DR650GW-2CH

Kimmy.E

Self confessed chic geek
Hi,

I installed my Blackvue DR650 and a power magic pro about a month ago and I am very pleased with it.
I don't seem to have any of the DAB signal issues either, I don't know if the ferrite rings I installed both ends of the coax has helped cure that.
I also installed ferrite rings both ends of the power cable just to be sure.
Its fairly self explanatory.
The rear camera is almost invisible with the window tints during the day and in low light you cant see it at all.

I installed the camera to the left of the rear view mirror so as to not obstruct the high beam assist camera and any of my vision, and I can still get the rear view mirror in the right position just about for my seating position.
I used the live view function off the app to get both cameras positioned and if you get the front camera just right it wont look off center on the video, which was my main concern!

I got the switched live from the cigarette lighter (as I still have mine on the default setting of only on with ignition) and permanent live from the 4 wheel drive I think it was. It was the only way I could get both add a circuits to fit in there nicely without fowling on anything. So far no problems at all.
Ground I got from one of the main dashboard mounting bolts.

In case you are wondering what all the bits of black tape are, that's my stealth mod!
I did not want any white writing or LED's being visible for when I am parked up as I have the power magic pro set to run for 24 hours to keep an eye on the car when its parked up in public places.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

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marshalld

aka dazzler
Hi Kimmy.

Very useful pictures.

Thinking of getting a dashcam myself, and have a couple of questions.

Am I correct in saying you've put the switched live fuse tap onto fuse 40 as everyone else seems to do?
I've just been mucking about in the fuse box with my testing screwdriver.

Fuse 48 is unallocated according to the manual - and is a switched live.

Q1: Any reason to not use fuse 48?
It seems to be in quite a good spot space-wise. It's next to the 15amp fuse on the bottom row in your photo.
I assume you could just plug in the fuse tap with the dashcam fuse in the top slot (seems to be how they work - see https://forum.dashcamtalk.com/threa...-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/#post-91084) and not have to worry about piggy backing.

Q2: What are the plastic things called you've used to push the cables into/behind the trim and where do you get them from?

Thanks.
 

Kimmy.E

Self confessed chic geek
Hi Marshalld,

I can't remember the fuse numbers of the top of my head without looking in the manual.
But yeah, I got the switched live from the cigarette lighter or 12v socket as some people may know it as. It comes pre configured from the factory to be switched live but you can make it permanent live by moving the fuse across one slot if you wish.

I got the permanent live from the transmission or drive train, can't remember the exact temanology used in the manual and again I can't remember the fuse number without looking in the manual.
Some people advise against this as they reckon the add a circuit can work its way out, which in turn may leave you stranded if you don't have the sense to check the fuse first!!
I got some decent ones of eBay and they are a nice snug fit. About 1k miles in and no issues and I don't drive like miss daisy!

I don't see why you can't use 48, I think it may have been tight space wise with my add a circuit, unless I totally over looked that, which is a possibility.

The add a circuits work by putting the original fuse in the bottom slot and then the fuse for what ever you will be runing in the top slot.

The plastic tools you see are special trim removing tools. They are made from a very strong mixture of some sort of plastics (can't remember which now) that won't mark or damage the trim you are removing in the car but still strong enough to pry of very tight bits of trim.
You can get cheap ones which are a waste of money as they just seem to be too soft.
The respected brand is Bojo, which is the ones I am using in the pictures. They are the snap-on of the trim removal tool world if you like.

I bought mine on eBay a few years ago, you can get a fairly comprehensive set for about £25-30.
Well worth the money, and it's worth going for a set as you will need the different types as you come across various bits of trim etc.
Search for Bojo tools on eBay.
 

Kimmy.E

Self confessed chic geek
Just realised that the second from last picture of the boot lid may be a bit mis leading.

It shows the cable poking through the top of the left hand rubber grommet. I ended up using the right hand one as you can see in another photo, and then coming along the headliner back to the left hand side of the car.
The left hand cable grommet was just too full of other cables to be able to comfatably pull the coax through without the fear of breaking anything, so I thought it was a safer bet to use the right hand one instead as there aren't as many cables in that one.

Edited to say, I used a 5amp fuse in each of the add a circuits to run the camera it self. Forgot to mention this in the initial post.
 
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jungle650

Registered User
This original install guide and photos along with the following one here really helped me with my recent Dashcam installation. So thanks guys.

I was torn between the Thinkware F750 and the Blackvue 650. I wanted something from a trusted make and something that was discrete. Both of these cameras have good / bad points and it was a hard decision. I swayed many times....I think if you are only worried about the very best picture quality and especially night vision and can live with the marginally larger front unit then the Thinkware is probably the one to go for, as according to reviews and youtube clips it just edges the Blackvue. I have to say though that the Blackvue 650 is pretty good at night and excellent during the day. Both have 1080P front cameras and the Thinkware has a 1080P rear camera vs the 720 on the Blackvue. Daytime vision / video is excellent on both. Thinkware F750 does have the edge on night vision though. Night vision is good on the Blackvue even through my tinted windows however its not perfect, but you can certainly see the road and vehicles behind you etc. The Blackvue App is excellent showing you the footage as well as GPS location / speed information. Front and Rear cameras are also in sync and can be viewed separately etc.

In the end Blackvue won it for me as it has had a few firmware updates / physical improvements since it was first launched, i.e. cables updated and improved bit rates on video / improvements on the APP. ( where as reading on various Forums Thinkware haven't really moved things on much since its launch, but you could argue they didn't really need to ) also in terms of discrete permanent install the Blackvue is a smaller unit. Blackvue have updated the rear camera cable and the main power cable so that both now offer better insulation with the power cable now having its own Ferrite core ( I fitted one also to the rear camera cable - 5mm). DAB issues was a major concern of mine, but I have to say I have not had any problems in over 1000 miles.

The final swing point for me was the hardware vs software solution for battery management when these units are hardwired in. The Thinkware has a software solution and I read quite a bit about units failing to turn off and overheating, I'm sure there are hardwire solutions and maybe the software solution has been fixed / user error but I didn't like this possible lack of control and did not know which hard wire kit to buy if I wanted to override this. Blackvue won here for me as it is easy for the novice, with plenty of reviews and youtube clips of installs etc.

The Blackvue has the Magic Pro which seems to offer a decent solution ( hardware i.e. small box ) in that you can manage the camera power settings in several different ways. Turn on with ignition only / On all the time with various cut off's for duration, i.e. 6 hrs, 12 hrs, 24 or infinity etc and cut offs for voltage settings so that the battery does not get drained. The voltage setting always overrides the time / duration setting , i.e. if you have the Magic Pro set up to power the camera all of the time but the battery in the car runs low then the unit will override and power down the camera ensuring you can always start the car. I like the fact that I can change the settings very easily as well. This enables you to do Park mode.

I was almost put off having a rear camera due to interference issues with DAB. But I have to say I have not had any problems. I do not know if this is a due to the new improved cables on the latest models direct from Blackvue or the fact that I added my own ferrite coil to the rear camera cable. Or indeed a combination of both. I recently did a large road trip across the UK and had no issues due to the camera/s. I had the occasional drop out ( about 4 across the entire country for 2 secs, whilst it found a new signal ) However I have no doubt I would have had similar issues with or without the camera across these regions. So very pleased, no constant interference, crackles or lack of DAB as I read on many forums.

Install took quite a few hours, but I was being careful not to break anything, especially when removing the boot plastics and messed about for ages deciding what fuses to use in the glove box.. In fact I wasted an awful amount of time here !.

Anyway I basically used the same principle / route around the car cabling wise as Kimmy.e but used different fuses for install as I could not get my piggyback fuses to fit in a number of original places !. Maybe I have more fuses in mine than what Kimmy.e had.

Here is a picture of the of the items I used. Ferrite Coils - I used 5mm items for the Rear Camera. I also used an old coat hanger with some tape around the ends rather than the Fish tape shown to thread the cable around the rear boot. Very useful indeed. Masking tape was used to roughly position the cameras before final mount, this was used in conjunction with the APP. And sticky velcro was used to mount the Magic Pro in the glove box. Simples..

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Here was my fuse box:

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I ended up using Fuses F11 ( reversible belt tensioner ) and F40 ( cigarette lighter ) as shown here: I used the same grounding point as Kimmy.e, i.e. the small screw on the outside of the side of the glove box, accessible via the side panel removal. No need to sand nut down just screw earth cable to it.. Easy. Although a bit fiddly.


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The bulk of the wires are hidden in the side of the glove box which is accessible by removing the side panel by the passenger door. I mounted the Blackvue Magic Pro in the glove box with sticky velcro so that I can change settings at a whim.

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Camera at top of screen is barely visible from the outside. I had to mount it here as did not want it in the way of the rain sensor or the auto headlight sensor. I also wanted it out of sight. Vision is not impaired nor is camera video quality as lens points down below the actual tint line.

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Rear Camera is not visible at all.

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With the ferrite coils attached ( 5mm to the rear camera cable and the one already attached from the factory on the power cable ) I have had no DAB radio problems what so ever.
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Some sample footage zoomed in with GPS tags removed etc:

Front Camera Day

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Front Camera Night

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Rear Footage - Day - Through heavily tinted glass.

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Rear Camera - Dark Night / road - Through heavily tinted glass. Cars still clearly visible etc.

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Trevolly

Registered User
Thanks for the info. I've been debating on the Blackvue 650 2ch for a while and the DAB interference has been worrying me. I might just go for this.... Can I ask where you purchased your Blackvue from and are there different quality ferrite coils?
 

jungle650

Registered User
Thanks for the info. I've been debating on the Blackvue 650 2ch for a while and the DAB interference has been worrying me. I might just go for this.... Can I ask where you purchased your Blackvue from and are there different quality ferrite coils?

I purchased mine on Amazon but seller was Blackvue direct. It came with firmware 2.0 installed and I updated it to the latest one which is currently 2.02. I purchased the front and rear camera pack with 16G card ( note u cannot purchase just the 1 camera model and later add the rear camera as it does not have the additional rear power mount on the single unit) I then pirchased a seperate 64GB micro SD card.

The Ferrite coils I purchased again on Amazon from sourcingmap for £5. I actually bought 4mm, 5mm and 6mm ferrite coils as I didnt know which ones woukd fit. 5mm was perfect. When fitting the Ferrite coils I created a double pass through by placing the cable through the coil then looping it around and passing through again before clipping shut. The 5mm items had 2 slots for the cable to go in so were a perffect fi and clearly designed for this set up. As you can see in the pictures from both Kimmy and myself we mounted the coil close to the rear camera and outside of the boot plastics. When you position the rear camera and note where the ariel fin is on the roof let alone all of the witing you are running the cable with its no suprise that there might be DAB issues. But as mentioned I am plased with the install and the DAB reception.

Jungle
 

Chrislake90

Registered User
Interesting thread. Looks like ill be parting with some cash then.
@jungle650 I recognise that seafront. You live in southend? I'll keep an eye out for you.
 

azibux1

Registered User
Ever so slightly off the main topic... I assume a power magic pro works even with other brands of dash cam?
 

ming6068

Registered User
The wire runs along on top of the door frame; does it affect the operation of curtain airbag?
 
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cemerson

Registered User
Looks pretty similar to mine (the thread linked above), though my rear camera is set quite high in comparison to both of yours.

The wire runs along on top of the door frame; does it affect the operation of curtain airbag?

For mine, I took the A pillar trim off at the top and ran the wire behind the curtain airbag because I was concerned about the same thing, so at least in my case I'm happy it doesn't interfere. The airbags have plenty of room behind them so this is easy to do.

The only thing I'm STILL having trouble with in mine is finding a permanent live. Perhaps my power magic pro is dodgy as well, but I can't seem to find a fuse to use that keeps the camera on all the time - it often cuts out when I first get in the car (if I don't start the engine straight away), or when the stop/start system kicks in. Would love to know which fuses people are using for the permanent live.
 

sidibear

Going with the flow.
Staff member
Moderator
I got @NHN (SuperNige) to install mine. He ran the cable through the roof space across the liner and down through the hinge cover and boot trim.Took him about an hour all in.
 

jungle650

Registered User
Ever so slightly off the main topic... I assume a power magic pro works even with other brands of dash cam?

Yes, after installing one I can see no reason why not.


The wire runs along on top of the door frame; does it affect the operation of curtain airbag?

For anyone worrying about airbags, this is a good video to watch: You can clearly see how they work and where they fire from.

 
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Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Sorry if I've missed this, are the fuse taps the mini blade sizes ? Any chance of a link from Amazon ?

Also, It look like on the Blackvue website that they've ditched the Power Magic Pro in favour of the Lukas Power Safety Device - does anyone have experience of this both operation and install ?

Cheers.
 

jungle650

Registered User
Sorry if I've missed this, are the fuse taps the mini blade sizes ? Any chance of a link from Amazon ?

Also, It look like on the Blackvue website that they've ditched the Power Magic Pro in favour of the Lukas Power Safety Device - does anyone have experience of this both operation and install ?

Cheers.

Hi Rob.

The fuse box in the glovebox houses both mini and standard size. I bought both but ended up using the standard size ones. The smaller fuses tended to be more critical circuits so I did not want to piggyback those in case anything worked loose and it left me or worse the other half stranded. But see no reason why u couldnt use them. Personal choice.

Just remember that the original fuse goes into the bottom slot. 3-5 Amp fuses will be fine for the camera and placed in top piggyback slot.

The fuse piggybacks are here:

Lucas Power device- I cant really comment on that other than at a quick glance it doesnt appear to offer any additional functionality over and above the Power Magic Pro.

Jungle
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Hi Rob.

The fuse box in the glovebox houses both mini and standard size. I bought both but ended up using the standard size ones. The smaller fuses tended to be more critical circuits so I did not want to piggyback those in case anything worked loose and it left me or worse the other half stranded. But see no reason why u couldnt use them. Personal choice.

Just remember that the original fuse goes into the bottom slot. 3-5 Amp fuses will be fine for the camera and placed in top piggyback slot.

The fuse piggybacks are here:

Lucas Power device- I cant really comment on that other than at a quick glance it doesnt appear to offer any additional functionality over and above the Power Magic Pro.

Jungle

That's great - thanks Jungle.

I'm going with the DR650 (frt cam only) with the larger fuse taps and PMP mounted as you have in the glove box.
 

jungle650

Registered User
That's great - thanks Jungle.

I'm going with the DR650 (frt cam only) with the larger fuse taps and PMP mounted as you have in the glove box.

Nice one- dont know if u spotted it or not Rob in the above thread just be aware that its worth updating the camera to the latest firmware - easy to do. just download file from Blackvue website and save to Micro SD card then insert into camera. As soon as you power camera up it installs. Also have the box close by or take a pic of the serial number if you want to register camera for the cloud storage. ( not essential by any means ). Far easier to do though if u have the numbers to hand. There is a QR sticker on the back of the camera but I could not get my phone to focus on it to take pic/ register. Reached out to Blackvue who came back overnight with easy fix.

Also , one final point I think the single camera 650 model is different in that you cannot add a rear camera at a later date as it does not have the extra rear connection on it, like the dual camera version. But do check before u buy as it might have changed or if thats something u want to add for the future.

Worth doing these quick checks first before permanent install:

1) download latest firmware
2) power camera using cigarette lighter to ensure it works , update firmware and set WIFI password. blackvue is default
3) then put canera to one side and focus on Power Magic Pro
4) tap into fuses and check Power Magic fires up- you should be able to get the green LED to light up without the ignition on if you have wired correctly, as well as turn off. With ignition and car running Magic Pro should always be on. Then you can mount Magic Pro. I used heavy duty sticky velco strips cut to length that I heated under a blower for a minute or so ( its cold at present and this warms them up nicely so they are extra sticky )
5) using APP with camera plugged in cigarette lighter , position camera where u want to mount on windscreen. Dont forget to leave just enough space to be able to remove / install power cable. Note that there is a button on the dashmount which enables you to slide and remove the camera from the mount. Useful for when installing and removing camera/ cables etc during install.
6) feed / hide wire around and up along the top of the screen. then double check mount position and power camera checking install will work.
7) only after above then perm mount to screen using supplied stickypad. I used tape to hold camera loosely in place until I was sure and happy with mount placement. You will not get a second chance as the sticky pads are evil!


PM me if u installing over the weekend and get stuck.

All the best
Jungle
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Nice one- dont know if u spotted it or not Rob in the above thread just be aware that its worth updating the camera to the latest firmware - easy to do. just download file from Blackvue website and save to Micro SD card then insert into camera. As soon as you power camera up it installs. Also have the box close by or take a pic of the serial number if you want to register camera for the cloud storage. ( not essential by any means ). Far easier to do though if u have the numbers to hand. There is a QR sticker on the back of the camera but I could not get my phone to focus on it to take pic/ register. Reached out to Blackvue who came back overnight with easy fix.

Also , one final point I think the single camera 650 model is different in that you cannot add a rear camera at a later date as it does not have the extra rear connection on it, like the dual camera version. But do check before u buy as it might have changed or if thats something u want to add for the future.

Worth doing these quick checks first before permanent install:

1) download latest firmware
2) power camera using cigarette lighter to ensure it works , update firmware and set WIFI password. blackvue is default
3) then put canera to one side and focus on Power Magic Pro
4) tap into fuses and check Power Magic fires up- you should be able to get the green LED to light up without the ignition on if you have wired correctly, as well as turn off. With ignition and car running Magic Pro should always be on. Then you can mount Magic Pro. I used heavy duty sticky velco strips cut to length that I heated under a blower for a minute or so ( its cold at present and this warms them up nicely so they are extra sticky )
5) using APP with camera plugged in cigarette lighter , position camera where u want to mount on windscreen. Dont forget to leave just enough space to be able to remove / install power cable. Note that there is a button on the dashmount which enables you to slide and remove the camera from the mount. Useful for when installing and removing camera/ cables etc during install.
6) feed / hide wire around and up along the top of the screen. then double check mount position and power camera checking install will work.
7) only after above then perm mount to screen using supplied stickypad. I used tape to hold camera loosely in place until I was sure and happy with mount placement. You will not get a second chance as the sticky pads are evil!


PM me if u installing over the weekend and get stuck.

All the best
Jungle

Hi Jungle - Once again thank you for the invaluable information. I have a small window of opportunity to do the install Friday afternoon and info from yourself and others has given me the confidence to do this - certainly the wiring info should make it plug and go.

I've gone for the DR650 single channel only as it meets my requirements and was slightly cheaper but you're absolutely right you cannot add the rear later so thanks for pointing this out just in case.

Just a couple of questions :-

1) What time and voltage do you have the PMP set at ? I'm thinking 12V and infinity ??
2) Did you leave the round looking connecting from the PMP to the main camera unit - It look like a cigarette lighter socket male and female ? I'm thinking about cutting this off so the cable is at the correct length and then soldering and shrink wrap ?

Also, any chance of a photo of yours from the inside please ? It looks very subtle from the outside (in fact I can't see it) which is the look I'm after so it would be useful to see how this sits in relation to the shade band and the rear view mirror. Maybe even some dimensions if it's not too much trouble ? ;o)

Cheers :salute:
 

jungle650

Registered User
Your Questions answered:

Just a couple of questions :-

1) What time and voltage do you have the PMP set at ? I'm thinking 12V and infinity ??

******* i have this set to 12v and 24h this meets my needs. Infinity would mean its basically live all of the time, until battery hits just below 12V. Bare in mind though that everytime you start the car the timer setting is reset however. So it depends how often you use the car , for what type of journeys, ie long / short etc and how often its left for.. Its all relative. For me 24h is plenty. If car is parked up for longer and not used it will be in storage so I do not personally need longer. In fact when I first installed, i set to just 6 hrs as that was all I really need. However on road trip I changed and have now left it at 24hr.

i have kept it at 24hr as if we ever go away with the car, its only ever left overnight, so 24 hours is more than enough. Its very easy to change settings on the fly if you have the PowerPro in the glovebox like me though. Also bare in mind that recording is looped so if u only have a 16 GB card u will struggle to physically record 24 hours or more at HD settings. I have a 64GB card in mine, so not an issue.


2) Did you leave the round looking connecting from the PMP to the main camera unit - It look like a cigarette lighter socket male and female ? I'm thinking about cutting this off so the cable is at the correct length and then soldering and shrink wrap ?


***** Yes there is plenty of space to tuck the excess wiring and the femal cigarette lighter fitting in the side panel to the fuse box. Pictures show this in the thread. Just ensure all excess wires are tucked up high enough out of the way pf the closing mechanisim for the glovebox. Easy to see and resolve with a couple of cable ties and just opening and closing glovebox whilst securing wires with the side panel open. There is a perfect spot with a metal bracket which the others have used to mount the Magic Pro but I used the space for easy tidy of excess cabkes. You will see what I mean when you come to do it... Honest....Yes you could cut off the end and tidy up but its extra work and if you want to reuse at a future date / resale means you have mullered the connector for no reason. I would leave well alone if it was me, its a solid connectuon and you will not aee it so why mess about .It works fine and there is more than enough space to hide. Save yourself tine. Leave as it is !!


Also, any chance of a photo of yours from the inside please ? It looks very subtle from the outside (in fact I can't see it) which is the look I'm after so it would be useful to see how this sits in relation to the shade band and the rear view mirror. Maybe even some dimensions if it's not too much trouble ? ;o)

Not by car so no dimensions / measurements but these shoukd help you.

See these pics for assistance..

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image.jpeg



image.jpeg
Cheers :salute:[/QUOTE]

Good luck.....Jungle
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Your Questions answered:

Just a couple of questions :-

1) What time and voltage do you have the PMP set at ? I'm thinking 12V and infinity ??

******* i have this set to 12v and 24h this meets my needs. Infinity would mean its basically live all of the time, until battery hits just below 12V. Bare in mind though that everytime you start the car the timer setting is reset however. So it depends how often you use the car , for what type of journeys, ie long / short etc and how often its left for.. Its all relative. For me 24h is plenty. If car is parked up for longer and not used it will be in storage so I do not personally need longer. In fact when I first installed, i set to just 6 hrs as that was all I really need. However on road trip I changed and have now left it at 24hr.

i have kept it at 24hr as if we ever go away with the car, its only ever left overnight, so 24 hours is more than enough. Its very easy to change settings on the fly if you have the PowerPro in the glovebox like me though. Also bare in mind that recording is looped so if u only have a 16 GB card u will struggle to physically record 24 hours or more at HD settings. I have a 64GB card in mine, so not an issue.


2) Did you leave the round looking connecting from the PMP to the main camera unit - It look like a cigarette lighter socket male and female ? I'm thinking about cutting this off so the cable is at the correct length and then soldering and shrink wrap ?


***** Yes there is plenty of space to tuck the excess wiring and the femal cigarette lighter fitting in the side panel to the fuse box. Pictures show this in the thread. Just ensure all excess wires are tucked up high enough out of the way pf the closing mechanisim for the glovebox. Easy to see and resolve with a couple of cable ties and just opening and closing glovebox whilst securing wires with the side panel open. There is a perfect spot with a metal bracket which the others have used to mount the Magic Pro but I used the space for easy tidy of excess cabkes. You will see what I mean when you come to do it... Honest....Yes you could cut off the end and tidy up but its extra work and if you want to reuse at a future date / resale means you have mullered the connector for no reason. I would leave well alone if it was me, its a solid connectuon and you will not aee it so why mess about .It works fine and there is more than enough space to hide. Save yourself tine. Leave as it is !!


Also, any chance of a photo of yours from the inside please ? It looks very subtle from the outside (in fact I can't see it) which is the look I'm after so it would be useful to see how this sits in relation to the shade band and the rear view mirror. Maybe even some dimensions if it's not too much trouble ? ;o)

Not by car so no dimensions / measurements but these shoukd help you.

See these pics for assistance..

View attachment 82418

View attachment 82419


View attachment 82421 Cheers :salute:

Good luck.....Jungle[/QUOTE]

Awesome work - thanks Jungle !!!!!!!!!!!
 

mojo555

Registered User
I've recently installed the 650 in my Golf, already had it in my van for nearly a year! No DAB interference at all! The van one is via a power magic pro and the car one is routed round and plugged into the 12v socket with no wire showing! I have moved the fuse position for 12 v socket so it stays live when engine off and so parking mode works great, if I leave the car for more than 24 hours I will disconnect in case it runs battery low.. Don't know if I would go to the hassle of installing power ages again as seems to work so well without
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
@jungle650 Hi Jungle, Everything turned up today so I'm good to go - apologies for my laziness but are these the correct fuses to tap into and if so which is constant 12V and which is the switched live (accessory) :-

US3FFoSo


I'm just downloading the firmware V2.002 right now ;o)
 

jungle650

Registered User
@jungle650 Hi Jungle, Everything turned up today so I'm good to go - apologies for my laziness but are these the correct fuses to tap into and if so which is constant 12V and which is the switched live (accessory) :-

US3FFoSo


I'm just downloading the firmware V2.002 right now ;o)

The top 25 fuse is constant.
The bottom 20 is switched.
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Found this location to work pretty well, I have the dimming rear view mirror and high beam assist camera :-

image.jpeg
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Just noticed you still have the tax disc displayed on your windscreen.Going for the retro look?...lol

I took that out and binned it first day they went electronic.

It's an annual parking pass for a local park that we go to .... good spot tho Hawkeyes :salute:
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread - I finalised my PMP hard wire install today when the correct sized standard fuse taps arrived. Just a few points to note that may help others.

1. My fuse box looked similar to Kimmys so it didn't have the 25A fuse shown in post number #23. However this is still permanently live at the box so the fuse tap can be installed here - place the PMP 3 or 5A fuse in the top slot but leave the bottom slot empty. If the fuse tap ever comes loose it won't effect the vehicle systems so this is very low risk.

2.The bolt for the earth point was very hit and miss for me so I drilled a hole in the side bracket at the end of the dash and used a self tapping screw and crimped earth loop.

3. The PMP location as per Jungles install is perfect so I did the same. At the top of the glove box are ready made slots (not sure what for) so I used these and just looped a tie wrap around it to hold it in place :-

image.jpeg
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
.......The only thing I'm STILL having trouble with in mine is finding a permanent live. Perhaps my power magic pro is dodgy as well, but I can't seem to find a fuse to use that keeps the camera on all the time - it often cuts out when I first get in the car (if I don't start the engine straight away), or when the stop/start system kicks in. Would love to know which fuses people are using for the permanent live.

Interesting. I found most of my fuses were permanent live - have you used the facia mounting bolt for an earth ?

I drilled and self tapped the outer bracket, you can just about make out the red earth loop crimped connector in the middle of where I have coiled the excess length :-

image.jpeg
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
For firmware updates check here :-

http://www.blackvue.com/support/downloads/

Maybe also worth pointing out firmware version v2.001 and onwards requires the BlackVue C APP (cloud) and not the older BlackVue APP.
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User

Kugaman1

Registered User
Well.....
Installed one of these today and all went well, its pretty straight forward.

However, the big issue is that its totally screwed my dab reception.....

Seems to be an issue whenever the rear camera is in use...

Tried covering cables in foil and then put the rear camera at the bottom of the rear screen instead of the top......makes no difference.

Im going to have to try some ferrite cores next, but Im not holding my breath!
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Well.....
Installed one of these today and all went well, its pretty straight forward.

However, the big issue is that its totally screwed my dab reception.....

Seems to be an issue whenever the rear camera is in use...

Tried covering cables in foil and then put the rear camera at the bottom of the rear screen instead of the top......makes no difference.

Im going to have to try some ferrite cores next, but Im not holding my breath!

That's not good ! Is the camera running the latest firmware ?
 

Kugaman1

Registered User
Yes, installed it before I put everything in.

All works fine camera wise.....just the dab issue which might mean it has to be returned. Apparently it is fairly common and theres not any real fix.

Pity as its quite good!
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Yes, installed it before I put everything in.

All works fine camera wise.....just the dab issue which might mean it has to be returned. Apparently it is fairly common and theres not any real fix.

Pity as its quite good!

That's a shame ! I only bought the 1ch version so don't have the rear camera.
 

Kugaman1

Registered User
Yes, I had the transcend drivepro 200 and it was perfect....

Infact I might put it back in tomorrow....
 

cemerson

Registered User
Interesting. I found most of my fuses were permanent live - have you used the facia mounting bolt for an earth ?

I drilled and self tapped the outer bracket, you can just about make out the red earth loop crimped connector in the middle of where I have coiled the excess length :-

View attachment 82818

Perhaps my Power Magic Pro has issues then, or the wire for the permanent feed. I'll have to check everything over again.
 

Raul_sbd

Registered User
Right finally I got hold of a Blackvue.. But now the million pound questions.. To place the holder I don't want to make a mistake and get something obstructing the lenses..
Where exactly have u guys fitted the camera.. I know behind the rear view mirror but.. At what level? Also the lens of the camera is it at the far end of the mirror or opposite? (WiFi and recording signs are upside down)
Maybe making it very difficult but ie the picture of the OP the lenses seems to be the far side of the rear mirror..

I just want to avoid as much as I can reflections and instructions.. Any pictures of your camera position will be much appreciated !!
 

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Right finally I got hold of a Blackvue.. But now the million pound questions.. To place the holder I don't want to make a mistake and get something obstructing the lenses..
Where exactly have u guys fitted the camera.. I know behind the rear view mirror but.. At what level? Also the lens of the camera is it at the far end of the mirror or opposite? (WiFi and recording signs are upside down)
Maybe making it very difficult but ie the picture of the OP the lenses seems to be the far side of the rear mirror..

I just want to avoid as much as I can reflections and instructions.. Any pictures of your camera position will be much appreciated !!

Symbols and writing shouldn't be upside down !

Here's a pic of mine from the outside showing position from rear view mirror ...

image.jpeg


and here's one from the inside ...

image.jpeg
 

Alex jb

Registered User
From the pics taken from the camera (first page) it seems like the lense being 200mm from the centre line of the car makes no difference with such a wide angle camera.
Just mount it where Rob2k has his
 
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