IHI VF34 AGU build

Oh ******.


Been out to look at a mk2 with a mate this evening. Cracking drive and the car felt great. Nearly home, pulled up at a red light. Oil pressure and all the temperatures where fine. Pulled away and the car stalled/cut out. Now it won't turn over. Put it in 5th and it won't roll with the handbrake off. Whipped the plugs out, all seems ok. Cam belt seems ok. Oil and water levels ok. Got towed home by the lovely RAC.


I'm hoping its clutch or flywheel but really not sure. Feel unbelievably gutted. Gonna try and take the box off tomorrow and see if it'll turn over. Need to find the energy/motivation from somewhere.


Balls.
 
Won't turn over or turns over but doesn't fire?

Crank sensor sounds likely if it turns over but doesn't fire

<tuffty/>
 
think he means it wont turn over when he trys to bump it along, like the box or lump has jamed.
 
Yeah, as above really. It won't turn over, even with the clutch dipped. It will roll in neutral happily enough. I guessing either the engine has seized or something in the flywheel/clutch has failed? It happened at very low speed, in first pulling away from a junction. I'm just praying its not the engine. Gonna try and take the box off later on today. Feel sick, I known there's bigger problems in the world but I'm pretty gutted at the mo.
 
Whip the plugs out and see if it will turn over by hand from the bottom pully clock wise and anti clockwise incase something has jammed up in the bell housing as this may free it off, I had a clutch explode once and bits got Jammed in the starter and fly so when I bounced it back and forwarded in gear it freed it off.
 
head blagged!!

jacked it up and took off the starter. found a few little swarfs of metal but nothing serious, however I cranked it by hand and it moved about half a revolution then locked up again. managed to check the timing marks and they're all spot on. removed the box and got it to crank by hand OK. not sure if I forced it too much tho? only used an old torque wrench so not much leverage. bearing in mind it wouldn't budge in 5th last night with 4 of us rocking the car back and forth. took the clutch off, all seemed ok.

very confused! Guess I need to flip the engine and take the sump off.

felt pretty heart breaking removing the engine and box after all the hard work that's go into it.

think I'm gonna have a few days off and have a good think. not in the best of health so need to slow down a bit anyway.

cheers for all the comments!
 
does the input shaft in the gear box move?
 
Intergrated engineering rods. Hope I haven't cocked them up, that'd be an expensive mistake! What happened when you spun a bearing? The only job I didn't do my self was installing the crank.
 
Quick question, are you ben mk2 of CGTI? lol

I keep getting dejavu.
 
Haha, yes mate!! Trying to get as much info as poss to stop the mild heart attacks I keep having thinking about my poor little engine :wacko:
 
Hmmm, any marks on the inside of the bell housing? As in fresh scrapes etc?

When turning the engine over by hand, can feel the compressions?
 
Can't see anything in the bell housing. Thought I did when I took the starter out but nothing obvious once I got the box out. Can still feel some compression when I crank it. I'm going away to see family for the next few days, prob won't stop thinking about it but I'm sure the break will do me good. Just want to know what's going on. Was really hoping to find something in the bell housing or clutch but haven't found anything as yet.
 
Intergrated engineering rods. Hope I haven't cocked them up, that'd be an expensive mistake! What happened when you spun a bearing? The only job I didn't do my self was installing the crank.

I would be very surprised if a rod is damaged. You said you still had oil pressure so I would say the bearings are ok.
I still have no idea what caused my bearing to spin. But like a idiot I didn't want to believe the low oil pressure was a spin bearing and kept driving the car. There wasn't much bearing left when I opened it up. So big end and crank was toast. The weird thing is the engine never made a noise at the bottom !!

i am interested to see what the outcome of your situation is and I really hope it's not serious.
 
Sooooooooo, managed to drain the oil and get the engine onto a stand today. Safe to say its ****ed. See below:


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Obv number four big end has got a bit hot. Found lots of swarf in the sump:


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I'm feeling rather stupid and extremely gutted at the mo. I've done no more than you can see in the pictures. I'm going to remove the rod tomorrow and see how bad the crank is. I'm guessing integrated engineering won't just supply me with one rod, so I'm looking at a set of rods, bearings and main bolts, poss a crank. Learn from your mistakes and all that. Anyone got any input as to what I've done wrong?
 
I think they can sell you one rod, im sure I've read disaster stories and theyve replaced just the one.

Do you think you over torqued the rod bolts?
This is my biggest worry with my engine build, that even if i follow instructions to a T that something like this occurs.
 
Thats great to know, thanks! I'm going to take the block to a local engine builder this week and see what he can do.

Interestingly 3 of the rods are marked with the number 446 and the failed one is 935, i'm sure it's nothing but I wonder what it means? Took the cap of the offending rod this afternoon.


The bottom half of the bearing practically jumped out once I moved it away from the crank. I know i'm looking at a crank regrind, just hoping the rod can be saved?? Guess I'll upgrade to ARP main bolts, at least i wont have to replace them again if the crank ever needs to come out in the future. I wonder if i can get just two ARP rod bolts if the rod can be saved?


Going to sell off my duostlying gauges to try and raise the funds to fix the engine :-(


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Torque wrench is less than six months old. Gonna get a mate to test it this week and see if its reading right
 
Thats sucks big time man, I feel your pain. Mine was the same but on cylinder no.1
What bearings did you use? OEM or something else?
Did you take note of which way you installed the rod cap. Did you have the bearing tangs facing each other?
Did you install the rod with the tangs facing the front of the engine?

You can buy one single rod from IE, I have already contacted them and they will supply one.

I thought the numbers on the rod is the weight of the rod, guess I am wrong about that because I dont know how one rod can weigh twice as much as the another.
 
I used vag bearings and the caps were the right way. It all adds to the confusion. I'm soooo glad to know I can get a single rod, gonna email IE this evening. Will ask about the markings as well. Thanks to the power of the Internet I've already been offered a spare crank and some rod bolts!!
 

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