Ignitron ECU

<tuffty/> said:
Sensors > afr... Should be at least...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

That’s what I thought mate.... but when in tablet mode there are 2 options that I can see.

Injection fuel stoichiometric AFR
Injection target AFR


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La


<tuffty/>
 
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You have the AFR already by having the Lambda reading that is the actual AFR being measured. The Injection fuel stoichiometric AFR will show Lamda in Stoichiometric values. So when Lambda = 1 stoich AFR will be 14.7-1.
Injection target AFR will show the requested AFR from the map.
 
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Thanks both, just need to learn how to read the Lambda sensor then I guess.


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Hi all, first time posting on here as usually use the facebook group.
Just a question about using multiple presets as this isn't something I have looked at yet, If using the cruise buttons to switch maps does this mean that you cannot now use the cruise control as Audi intended? I use cruise a lot so wouldn't want to loose it.
Thanks
 
Bazgreener said:
Hi all, first time posting on here as usually use the facebook group.
Just a question about using multiple presets as this isn't something I have looked at yet, If using the cruise buttons to switch maps does this mean that you cannot now use the cruise control as Audi intended? I use cruise a lot so wouldn't want to loose it.
Thanks
Click to expand...
If you have mapped the cruise buttons to map switching then no, cruise won't work...

There is a way to use it if you rewire the cruise stalk and tie map switching into 'race mode'... essentially use the cruise enable switch to toggle race mode... when cruise is disabled then race mode is enabled and you can 'use' the switches for map switching... this requires you to run a 12v feed to the cruise switch though as the cruise switch turns off power to the toggle switches when disabled...

Brian did explain this too me well over a year ago but tbh I would prefer to just use a separate switch for map switching and leave cruise doing cruise things... I believe this is how Bill generally does map switching too as not all cars come with cruise stalks so using a separate switch makes more sense

<tuffty/>
 
What make of tablets do you guys run with these ECU's? I know Tuffty and S3AMJ are using Linx 8" tablet with windows 10 are these the better ones to run or as long as it has USB ports it will be fine. Also I was reading what systems is best and it said is more harder to set it up if using windows 10. What are peoples thoughts on that?
 
I’m now using a Linx 1020 tablet, my Linx 8 screen was becoming less responsive and that Jumper Ezpad 5 tablet I had sh1t itself because I left it in the car when it was 37 degrees C. The Linx 1020 has 2 normal USB ports and capable of a lot more things than my previous tablets. Windows 10 is fine, only thing that some have had to do is install the Driver for the Ignitron ECU using a 3rd party software. Pretty straight forward though.


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zadig usb installer is the only one or iecu, and works ok. often slow, so if you press a button and nothing happens, seemingly its just "thinking" about things and is doing something.
 
Thanks a million Badger5, My ECU arrived today, hopefully 610 injectors tomorrow.
Will have a play with the ECU on current Bam engine which has intake filter, and 80mm tip from Badger5, FMIC and 3" down pipe
Plan to learn before I fit new BAM forged motor and hopefully not bend any rods in current motor.
Slow and steady is what I am telling myself but my brain is telling me otherwise.
Is there a more in depth forum for beginners with this iECU.
 
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TrueSoft said:
Thanks a million Badger5, My ECU arrived today, hopefully 610 injectors tomorrow.
Will have a play with the ECU on current Bam engine which has intake filter, and 80mm tip from Badger5, FMIC and 3" down pipe
Plan to learn before I fit new BAM forged motor and hopefully not bend any rods in current motor.
Slow and steady is what I am telling myself but my brain is telling me otherwise.
Is there a more in depth forum for beginners with this iECU.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the club!

There isn’t a forum for beginners, kind of one of the reasons why I started this thread on here originally. However Badger5 do have some very useful videos on YouTube showing the basics of setting up, etc.


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TrueSoft said:
Thanks a million Badger5, My ECU arrived today, hopefully 610 injectors tomorrow.
Will have a play with the ECU on current Bam engine which has intake filter, and 80mm tip from Badger5, FMIC and 3" down pipe
Plan to learn before I fit new BAM forged motor and hopefully not bend any rods in current motor.
Slow and steady is what I am telling myself but my brain is telling me otherwise.
Is there a more in depth forum for beginners with this iECU.
Click to expand...
When did you order website has said no stock for a while now ?
 
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Many thanks, Have watched YouTube vids, They are a good start.
I believe Badger5 just got a shipment but think they are prebooked, Phone them is best bet and pay upfront.

I fitted ecu this morning, my hazard lights just started flashing.
Installed the zadig driver successfully. started software but there is no write available in the ECU software.
Could I have an immobilizer interfering, fitted original ECU back and starts fine.
Is this the right forum to aske or should I start a new thread.
 
Keep it in this thread if you don’t mind dude. Like I said I started this thread with the original intention of anyone running the IECU to put here there findings, problem solving and so on.


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Strange why hazard lights should start flashing, Can't imagine why that would be other than it might be the alarm going off and your alarm sounder isn't working. You have to have the ignition on for the ECU to wake up. Once you have connected to the ECU you can turn the ignition back off again.
The factory immobiliser doesn't interfere at all with Ignitron. Have you joined the Facebook group. Well worth doing you will usually get a response from Balazs or somebody who could help you fairly quickly.

search for Ignitron ECU users group on FB
 
Thanks Desertstorm, you are spot on, it was my alarm.
After I got home and saw your message I put iECU back in, no hazards.
ran software but can not get any comms with ECU.
I plug in USB, turn on ignition, I hear windows recognise driver as ECU wakes up. I used zadig to install driver, I have checked in windows device manger, all good.
ECU software says V1.24 OFFLINE
I have joined FB, thanks for like and asked question there, 2 hours left of daylight, hopefully someone points me in the right direction.
Its like I have a demo version of the software
 
Many thanks to Bill and Balazs for there prompt reply,.
Turns out there are about 4 different ECU drivers in the Zadig tool, but it was libusb-win32 that worked on my 64bit laptop.
even though all said successfully installed.

Great support from Bager5.
I am going to follow Bills advice and go MAF less, move the MAP to intake manifold and start from there.
many thanks
:)
 
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Quite a common issue people have with the drivers on win 10 when they first try to use the ECU, Easily sorted. Mafless is the way to go makes changes to the tuning a lot easier. I did something similar by fitting the ECU to my stage 2 engine and getting used to the ECU and the set up before rebuilding the engine with a big turbo.
 
I went for ride today in S3 and paly golf. course was frozen, so took my time to test new ECU,
pulled OK in third and in fourth struggled to get RPM up. Something was up. The ECU did give me a warning about I need a wide band sensor so I have one on order and a 0-4 bar sensor for boost to fit to intake manifold.
Pulled over and put ADT tuned ECU back in, which drives so well.
car has done 205K miles and runs floorless.

I have a bam engine in garage I am forging. Planning to leave the head not ported to increase torque, and a GT25-550 turbo
but for now I plan to learn about the iECU running on my engine. I would like to end up with 400-450bhp.

Is there a way any one can read the maps off the old ECU and I can use them as a starting point.
get in running just as good on the iECU, then fit the 610cc injectors and start learning
 
IECU pretty much tunes itself initially from the base map... assuming you are using speed density and ditching the MAF (recommended) then the tuning process starts with the ECU learning and you applying adaptions to the VE map... there are videos that Bill has done to cover the basics and doco to get you started

<tuffty/>
 
thanks, I just needed a bit of reassurance, after wide band sensor and 0-4bar sensor fitted to intake I will put iECU
back
Remove the Maf too, thanks for help all.
 
Need a wideband sensor, Ignitron mentioned a LSU, can anyone recommend one, I could not find them on the Badger site, Thanks
 
Do I need O2 sensor after Cat too? the one on outlet of turbo has 5 wires. Is it just a narrow band by default?
also, sorry to ask, can you also recommend a fuel pump for 610 injectors? Many thanks
 
BAM, also would it be worth read the maps off the old ADT tuned ECU and I can use them as a starting point.
 
BAM already has wideband sensor, so you dont need to replace yours. Thats fine. You dont need the second O2 sensor!
 
Thanks
I plan to fit 0-4 bar sensor for boost to intake manifold, go MAF less, fit 610 injector and install the iECU from scratch.
how long does it take iECU to learn in estimate miles, before I should do a pull in 4th and log data?
Forum is outstanding. Many thanks
 
Fit the lowest range sensor you need. Lets say if you dont need any boost above 280kpa absolute pressure (1.8bar of turbo boost) then go for a 300kpa MAP sensor (leaving 20kpa headroom/safety margin to trigger limp mode). You will need multiple learning passes. The more you drive the more precise the learned adaptations will be. I would do 20-30 miles for the first pass and gradually more for the others.
 
Hi all, Fitted ECU back in car, drove fine and easy for 10 mile,
Turned up mountain pass on way home and stuck it down in 2nd.
ESP kicked in but pulled good. Changed to 3rd and car felt like it was in limp mode for next 5 miles.
Pulled over and disabled limp mode.
Gave it a little legal push on last 1/2 mile of my 20 mile home trip.
She pulled better but it obviously needs tuning and I need to find out why it goes into limp mode after a boost.
Please find attached log when limp mode was disabled.
http://truesoft.co.uk/s3/20201208_1725limp_desabled_.ilf

Any help or point in the right direction is much appreciated.
 
DO NOT turn limp mode off, ever! Can save your engine. According to the log you upladed, lambda was too high (above 1.000 on full throttle) whilst your injector duty cycle maxxed out (100%+). You have a serious fueling issue and if you continue to drive the car like that (sooner or later) you will melt a piston or two!
 
Okay bud, I did a pull this morning and it went into limp mode a 4K, also noticed injector cycle was over 110%, I put injector size as 386cc. I think ADT must of fitted bigger injectors, going to take them off and fit my new 610cc injectors I got from Badger.
I will leave limp mode protection ON, and stay off the boost.
I will let you know what injectors were fitted for interest sake.
Thanks
 
Not entirely sure what is going on with your engine it looks very strange. At idle it's running 0.9 lambda and fuel trims are -25% as it's trying to reduce the fuelling. As you rev it the fuelling goes very lean . At one point EGT hits 920 degrees C
Most of the time when you are driving it pedal to the floor the injector duration is over 100% and fuelling is very lean. As Balazs says don't disable limp mode as if the car is running correctly it shouldn't enter limp. Carry on running the engine like that and you will end up with a very sick / broken engine.
Something very funny happening with the VVT as well as it's only engaging between 3500 and 3900 rpm. Thats the Hall 1 measurement. You also need to sort the coolant sensor reading, the temperature appears to only be 63 degrees C but the oil temp measured in the sump is close to 90 degrees.
Check the injector settings / dead time you have and is your fuel pressure regulator connected correctly? Have you got a 3 or 4 bar FPR.
Upload 2020 12 9 12 50 20
 
Many thanks for effort at looking at logs and responses.
I think you were both spot on.
I took cover off at lunch time and managed to get injector number, 0280 156 063 which = 346cc, I thought STD was 386cc, so this was causing the problems, went for a quick spin and Yeah, no limp mode.
I have done a ECU reset and used wizard again.
Will take it easy on 20 mile ride home and log 3rd and 4th again.
 
I hit limp mode again, which is goodish.
Going to change coolant sensor and Injectors tomorrow.
Not sure on fuel pressure. I suspect ADT turned it up, as car has got above sensors and it pulls
So I need to fit Oil Pressure and Fuel pressure next as I am not sure what has been done to engine previously.
So for now I am going to fit ADT Ecu until the above have been sorted.
Any advice as to wire the sensors in the iEcu will be appreciated.
I presume that I would use an analog input, As I am MAFless, can I use this connector and just define it as say Fuel Pressure rail.
P.S thanks Balizsoft for a great product and putting in the safe guards, else my motor would of been toast.
 
What i can see on your first log is that the injector duty is above 100% on full throttle, so either your injectors are too small or there is a problem with the fuel pressure (or both :D ) - if we believe high lambda reading. You can use ECU pin 10 and pin 11 to feed 0-5V analog voltages which can be later used as oil or fuel pressure, etc...
 
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