Ignitron ECU

ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Sounds good, does it have to be made from aluminium?

Tbh I'll probably just leave the brackets in place once fitted as they hardly cover the rev counter or speedo........have another design I'm working on which is less obtrusive & low slung but it's a bit trial & error with my CAD skills atm :culpability:
 
Only benefit with using aluminium, it’s lightweight and strong. The tablet will still be magnetically fixed to it.

My design doesn’t cover anything, my fabricating and design skills aren’t the best though.... I tried using CAD once.... I’ll say no more haha.


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ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Only just started using CAD in the last few weeks, a few times I've had to walk away as it's unbelievably frustrating knowing something can be done but not having the know how to do it...........Grrrrrrr
 
Hope all is well and keeping safe. I’ve had a fault come up on the ECU.

P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit High Input Constant. Value 4.737v

Any ideas why this has thrown up? Currently using my car as my Daily being a key worker.

Obviously it’s the MAP sensor, potentially on its way out?

It usually happens when I put on lots of load when I’ve dropped down a gear.


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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
What MAP sensor you using?... plausibly you have more boost than the MAP sensor can see? looks like its gone over the valid region maximum on the map sensor voltage settings...

Screenshot 2020-04-01 at 09.17.42.png

Mine is set at 4.649v on the 3bar MAP for the VR... on the 4bar that was on my 1.8t it was set at 4.014v although 4bar is 4.461v in the calibration...


Check your boost and MAP sensor settings... it may be an overshoot of boost on spool so the PID might need a tweak to reign it in... check the logs too as these will show map sensor readings

Screenshot 2020-04-01 at 09.29.19.png

<tuffty/>
 
What MAP sensor you using?... plausibly you have more boost than the MAP sensor can see? looks like its gone over the valid region maximum on the map sensor voltage settings...

View attachment 200116
Mine is set at 4.649v on the 3bar MAP for the VR... on the 4bar that was on my 1.8t it was set at 4.014v although 4bar is 4.461v in the calibration...


Check your boost and MAP sensor settings... it may be an overshoot of boost on spool so the PID might need a tweak to reign it in... check the logs too as these will show map sensor readings

View attachment 200117
<tuffty/>

Thanks PT, so I’m using a Bosch 3bar MAP sensor I believe that Bill supplied and fitted.

My tablet failed to connect this morning so I couldn’t get a good look what’s going on.

Will update as soon as I get a moment to have a proper look


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Driver issue maybe... try using zadig to reinstall

<tuffty/>

Thanks mate, I found it ended up being the usb hub, it was still charging the tablet but not transferring the data. I bought a replacement for £7.99. All working like a dream again.


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Currently running standard DV, my understanding is with iECU you don’t need to be recirculating because it pulls its values from the MAP and lambda sensor. Can you run a standard DV to atmosphere, or will you need a “proper” atmosphere DV? Reason behind my question is so I can do away with the pipe between DV and charge pipe.


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Last edited:

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
You can run an atmos valve using speed density...

However... you cannot simply remove the pipe between the charge pipe and the DV as thats where the pressure is that gets released... the only 'pipe' you could do away with in this case it the one from the DV to the TIP...

On my setup I moved the DV pressure pipe to just before the throttle body (mainly as the supersize was too big to place next to the charge pipe neatly)... this was still recirculating though as I had a meth nozzle pre DV... running an atmos valve or a DV to atmos would then potentially spray meth all over a hot engine bay... not a good thing...

If you want the clean look like I did you can run the DV 'coldside' but you will still need to route it back to the TIP...

Arguably the DV will work better closer to the turbo as the pressure is higher there and the point of the valve it to prevent damaging the turbo...

<tuffty/>
 
You can run an atmos valve using speed density...

However... you cannot simply remove the pipe between the charge pipe and the DV as thats where the pressure is that gets released... the only 'pipe' you could do away with in this case it the one from the DV to the TIP...

On my setup I moved the DV pressure pipe to just before the throttle body (mainly as the supersize was too big to place next to the charge pipe neatly)... this was still recirculating though as I had a meth nozzle pre DV... running an atmos valve or a DV to atmos would then potentially spray meth all over a hot engine bay... not a good thing...

If you want the clean look like I did you can run the DV 'coldside' but you will still need to route it back to the TIP...

Arguably the DV will work better closer to the turbo as the pressure is higher there and the point of the valve it to prevent damaging the turbo...

<tuffty/>

Ahhhh yes of course, sorry I was thinking the other way around with the pipework.

I did think about relocating the DV before but that would mean more pipework, like you mentioned.

Deffo don’t want meth spraying everywhere either haha

I’ll give it some more thought, good to know you don’t have to recirculate anymore with Ignitron!


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ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Thanks again mate, I’ll do that as soon as.... well my tablet isn’t reading the ECU anymore for some reason.

Any ideas why it would all of a sudden not read.


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Ash did you get this intermittently or did it just drop out & that was that?

I've had this a cpl of times now myself
 
Ash did you get this intermittently or did it just drop out & that was that?

I've had this a cpl of times now myself

Hi mate, it suddenly dropped out. I found out it was the USB hub I was using, must have delicate internals because I seem to recall throwing it into the foot well of the car. I replaced it and all is working fine.


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ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Hi mate, it suddenly dropped out. I found out it was the USB hub I was using, must have delicate internals because I seem to recall throwing it into the foot well of the car. I replaced it and all is working fine.


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Easy enough fix for you....I'm thinking I've just got the gremlins in atm
 
Easy enough fix for you....I'm thinking I've just got the gremlins in atm

Might be worth uninstalling the driver and re-installing it, like what Tuffty suggested. That would be the next point of call. Have you got a laptop or another device you can plug in to see if it works?


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ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Might be worth uninstalling the driver and re-installing
Lol If only you knew the faff I had installing the driver to start with!

Unfortunately I only have a mac book, nothing else with windows......I only bought the tablet to use ignitron
 
Lol If only you knew the faff I had installing the driver to start with!

Unfortunately I only have a mac book, nothing else with windows......I only bought the tablet to use ignitron

Haha don’t worry I was in the same boat when I started, driver was a nightmare, ummmm.... not sure what else to suggest. Your using the same tablet as me aren’t you?

Might be worth doing what has been suggested above about changing some settings.


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ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Yes mate same tablet, I'm gonna pick up a cheap laptop nothing fancy as it doesnt need to be as it's only for the ecu....should make things easier with a bigger screen for a start.

I'll try reinstalling the driver if it continues
 

ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Thought I'd have a go at setting up launch control......

Planned to activate it from the cruise control but I couldn't see the launch option from the inputs-digital (switch) drop down box unless I'm missing something as I know cruise control is listed as rolling launch?
20200529_193150_resized_1.jpg
only way I could figure out to do it is by using race mode via the esp button
20200529_200647_resized.jpg
I didn't want anti lag so I've left this disabled in the anti lag setup.
I've enabled launch in the presets selector with 1 preset
20200529_200700_resized.jpg

Now I'm not exactly sure what I should be doing in the launch settings so I've just left them as they appeared on the screen & thought best to try getting some feed back on setting up before I attemp to try it out, only thing I've done is set the temps for when to be active........any input on this will be appreciated
20200529_200619_resized.jpg
 

ADs3

Active Member
Silver Supporter
Now looking at it I think I've gotten it wrong ticking the launch control & anti lag in race mode as it says at the top "overides"
 
Can we disable the ESP function entirely with IECU? I’m just in the process of making up a custom 90mm TIP and wanting to ditch as many pipes as possible. For instance I won’t be needing the hockey puck as I’m venting to atmosphere, the N75 can be vented to atmosphere, I will be recirculating the DV. Then there’s the ESP is it just a case of disabling it and blocking off the pipe? Or can the IECU still have the ability to run ESP without that pipe into the TIP?


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Esp is a function of the ABS unit... You have to code it out there

<tuffty/>

Ahhhhhh, yes that makes sense. Tuffty, if I code it out via VCDS can I simply block the pipe off that goes into the TIP?


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Re-reading your post... I think you mean EVAP... And yes you can just unroute the N80 EVAP valve

<tuffty/>

It’s the EVAP pipe is it?? From the charcoal canister.... I thought the 80mm TIP came for ESP and non ESP cars, which led me to think it was for the ESP...

With that said I can basically run the N75, N80 and catch can to atmosphere and just fit a 25mm pipe doing into the 90mm TIP for the DV.

Would that be correct?


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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Non ESP cars have a different shape TIP as standard and the pipework plumbed into it is in a slightly different position is all...

EVAP can be deleted all together... you still need to run the pipe from the tank and not block it up... I fed mine into the inner arch and removed the charcoal canister... this gave me the room to fit my fuel filter neatly

N75/catch can is fine to vent to atmos if you want... I did this to mine... only pipe I had on there and will retain even with MAF less is the DV...

<tuffty/>
 
Non ESP cars have a different shape TIP as standard and the pipework plumbed into it is in a slightly different position is all...

EVAP can be deleted all together... you still need to run the pipe from the tank and not block it up... I fed mine into the inner arch and removed the charcoal canister... this gave me the room to fit my fuel filter neatly

N75/catch can is fine to vent to atmos if you want... I did this to mine... only pipe I had on there and will retain even with MAF less is the DV...

<tuffty/>

Cheers mate. Clears everything up nicely. I might do away with my charcoal canister as well. Eventually I’ll end up doing the same and putting the fuel filter there in it’s place like you did.

The only thing I’ll be plumbing into the TIP is the DV like you mentioned, running water meth, you don’t want that running to atmosphere. Should clean the engine bay up well and reduce unnecessary pipework.

Plus with the new 90mm TIP and velocity stack with only the DV plumbed into it, reduces any potential turbulence.


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badger5

www.badger5.co.uk
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Can we disable the ESP function entirely with IECU? I’m just in the process of making up a custom 90mm TIP and wanting to ditch as many pipes as possible. For instance I won’t be needing the hockey puck as I’m venting to atmosphere, the N75 can be vented to atmosphere, I will be recirculating the DV. Then there’s the ESP is it just a case of disabling it and blocking off the pipe? Or can the IECU still have the ability to run ESP without that pipe into the TIP?


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esp into tip? you mean evap surely?
 
esp into tip? you mean evap surely?

Yeah sorry Bill, I mistaken the EVAP for something to do with the ESP. Only because I thought some 80mm TIP were designed for ESP and Non-ESP. I eliminated all the other pipwork and assumed it was relevant to ESP. But all good now Tuffty set me straight.

Only thing that will be going into the new TIP is the recirc DV. On the same subject, we were talking about welding up Alloy pipework the other day, my supplier ran out and sent me everything in 90mm stainless steel instead. Might be easier to weld up? It’s 1.6mm walled stuff. I’m gonna go about cutting it all up tomorrow and dry fitting ready


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Tj 0785

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
@badger5 do you have a base map for a 3.2t you can supply the ignition, would you need to know what turbo for il be using for the base map before I order at the end of this month?
 
@badger5 do you have a base map for a 3.2t you can supply the ignition, would you need to know what turbo for il be using for the base map before I order at the end of this month?

I think it’s just a case of setting it up with the wizard setup tool at the beginning mate, gets the car running and then you go from there.


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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Ping me later on FB Tj... We can have a chat about a map...

The wizard doesn't support vr6's as yet I believe and Brian sorted my initial file out so can use the base file potentially for yours

<tuffty/>
 
Ping me later on FB Tj... We can have a chat about a map...

The wizard doesn't support vr6's as yet I believe and Brian sorted my initial file out so can use the base file potentially for yours

<tuffty/>

Ah my bad, it’s still in the pipework for a future update then. I know you shouldn’t assume anything these days


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General question to all though using tablets, although I still haven’t got round to making my mounting bracket for the tablet to sit in front of the instrument cluster. What mounts are you using for the vents? I need something that sits tighter and doesn’t move. Mine are currently attached the a single vent Blade which isn’t ideal. Potential to break.


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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Well..... my 8” tablet sh1t itself when I left it in my car while it was 37 degrees outside a couple weeks back. So had to invest in a new tablet, I did mucho research and ended up getting a (Linx 1020) so it’s a 10” tablet quite weighty! 630g so ordered 2 pairs of the YOSHI magnetic holders that Tuffty recommended.

24bc6266e51045039f26521ba84c5f78.jpg

3a5fa5b8407bdb6d3d9578fe7e87caf1.jpg


It’s solid not going anywhere and with it having 2x normal sized USB’s means connecting things up are much much easier. I did a 250 mile round trip on Sunday just gone and left with a fully charged tablet, returned with a full charged tablet happy days.

Now I need a little advice! I want to see my AFR and can’t find which gauge it is, I’ve tried both that I can see and neither are working. Also please ignore the fuel pressure gauge, I thought with having a fuel pressure transducer this would pick it up but must be a different option to show that.


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