Its not really surprising that timing is all over the place... its used as part of load control for idle... if you have an underlying issue causing the idle control to work a bit harder then this is why your timing would be a little more jumpy than normal as the ecu is using timing advance to help idle control...
If you are having idling issues then the timing leaping around is a result of the ecu trying to control it and is not a cause
I suspect you have a leak somewhere based on what you are saying about idle and being down on power... smoke test required
Pvc delete, n249 delete, 3"TIP, 42DD velocity stack intake, n75h, forge 008, 63mm FMIC, phenolic spacer, 3" DP, 3" mandrel bent SS twin tip exhaust, (4bar fpr, ev14s-sitting on shelf waiting for tune) racing battery, short shifter, 8p knob, powertrack 50/50ad, polly bushed + caster correct, vmaxx xxtreme, h&r arbs, 15mm + 20mm spacers, Osaka 18" racing alloys, drilled discs, rstuff pads.
Problem started about 2 weeks ago, had a leaky boost pipe, thought it may have killed my n75. Now I have brand new pipework, I've tested the n75h out of the car, ran with 008 dv blocked, no leaks, plugs new, coilpacks upgraded, exhaust not leakin one single iota
The N75h new (never thrown me into limp), forge 008dv new, just had it smoke pressure tested and its tighter than a nuns a.hole all good, maf = brand new bosch unit, the old unit was also completely fine.....as I now know
Either maf unit unplugged and its boosting hard, either unit plugged in and it's stuttering and missing like anything, new and old genuine mafs...not a single speck of change between either, and, no boost at all
Coolant temp sensor new and working, thermo new and working, just so random that it was fine one run, jumped in an hour later and the boost was all gone.
I've haven't a single vcds code under the sun....I'm fresh out of ideas....
(both my o2 sensors say they fail the readiness test on VCDS, of course my cat also says the same, but i have no cat....could dead o2 sensors be messing everything up? No spacer on postcat lambda, my installer if I remember correctly said he had it disconnected, but not mapped out)
Check the coilpack wiring as I said in the other thread mate, strip it right back. I'm having exactly the same issue (Just not quite as badly - Only when MAF is plugged in and over 3000rpm) and it's old cracked loom causing it.
£38 from TPS for the loom and £7 terminal removal tool off eBay
the entire wiring loom? My heat shielding has been off the loom for ages, it looks completely fine, what confuses me is that it was boosting its tits off one moment then literally car off and back on and boost gone.
Last night, with foot to the floor on the freeway already making very little boost, my DV suddenly dropped everything and I got absolutely no boost. Finally got a code, boost pressure limit exceeded, dead n75?
I should note, there have currently been 2 sounds when I release the accelerator, since Ive had this problem. There's the typical whoosh of DV pressure but there is also a metallic cylindrical (if under "strong boost" its sort of a little spit of air" but typically it is a sort of hoot that occurs a split second before the typical DV whoosh. I have never had this occur before and the sound is very weak, as is the typical whooshing DV sound (since I am making very little boost)
Also my gigantic 42DD intake usually sucks in a bucket load of air, and is very, very audible (Literally can be heard from a mile away, however since these issues the sucking sound is also very, very weak and quiet)
I swapped out an n75 from an A4 B6 here, (I didn't reset my ecu) and still had weak boost. Should I try to the swap again, and reset my ecu? Im beginning to think my n75 is wrecked. It was tested out of the car, and seemed to be fine, however it is an n75H ECS race valve, I have heard these are prone to failing?
so, flipped around my 008 DV, with the MAF connected, it staggers when it hits boost then goes into hard limp and turbo is completely gone. Disconnect maf, hits boost much harder, then again, staggers, big whoosh as the n75 releases everything then heavy limp.....dead actuator??
Yah I get it, that sounds and feels right, so n75 maybe, malfunctioning and sending the ecu out. (Long n75 pipe into tip, small pipe directly opposite to actuator, 90o pipe to charge pipe, this is correct right?) Also, Bill perfect man to ask, I turned my map sensor around in the tube, 180o, would this make any difference? It looks like it is a 360o type sensor. I had these problems before I did this, but would this be an issue?
Ran out of time to do this today I'll run it tomorrow, also, thinking of doing another pressure test. What psi should I pressurise it to? The smoke testers blanked off my tip then tested from the pipe ontop of my dv, pulled it off and pumped smoke in....feel this wasn't 100% a good way to put it under heavy pressure
Personally if you are struggling this much then take it to a well respected tuner, like AMD, Badger5, R-Tech, AKS Tuning etc, as from reading lots of your threads, it sounds like you are going round in circles.
so no over boost code with the n75 unplugged, just running actuator psi which feels good (which feels like no boost at all, 4-5 right?)
Does this sound like a bad n75? I've got a mate bringing his a4 b6 around, from what I understand the stock 225 and his have the same n75, i'll install, reset the ecu and test. I installed his previously, but i didn't reset the ECU, fail on my behalf.
I was running with leaks every week for about 3 months with my last pipework setup, i feel this is the likely culprit that may have killed it.
No, no map for these mods, mods first, smooth running (which it was, completely, up until this happened a few weeks ago) then custom map. There's nothing here that needs a drastic map that the ecu can't handle. The ev14s and 4bar are sitting on a shelf to go in, these will need coding in.
Im located in Melbourne Australia so only one good tuner here practically in the whole country and he's in Sydney, so need it running right before i drive up to get him to tune her up.