[HOW-TO] Upgrade to Audi/Bose Sound System

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Since some people already reached out to me I thought let's make it into a general topic. Audi made different radio's with differt speaker/amp/sub setup (e.q. Chorus Sound System, Bose Sound System, Audi Sound System etc.)

I personally bought myself an A3 8P and thought what a simple sound it coming through these speakers, I opened up the reardoor panels and saw there wasn't any speaker at all. I did some research and found plenty of people discussing this topic of fitting a sub and speakers but not a clear how-to on the pinout and wiring of the original AMP and sub. The pictures in this how-to cover the retrofit of a Audi Soundsystem with Blaupunkt gear.

Please keep in mind i'm Dutch so my English won't be picture perfect :).

Abbreviations:
AMP = Amplifier
SUB = Subwoofer
RR = Rear Right
RL = Rear Left
FL = Front Left
FR = Front Right
GND = Ground
HU = Headunit

Situation;
I have an A3 8P with an Audi Chorus that I upgraded to an RNS-e High (193G). The Chorus soundsystem only has 2 front speakers and 2 tweeters in the A-pillars. I wanted to have a original subwoofer, AMP and reardoor speakers and tweeters.

What is needed:
  • VCDS (optional, you will read about it in the how-to)
  • Subwoofer (8P4035382D)
    This is the Blaupunkt subwoofer, this sub has a build-in AMP. The Bose soundsystem has a seperate AMP.
  • Amplifier (8P4035223D)
    Only needed when fitting a Bose Sound System
  • Subwoofer connector (V1J0962623 or 1J0962623)
    Audi lists them as "V1J0962623A" they costs €5,- at the dealership.
  • 1,5MM cables to run from HU to SUB (trunk) and doorspeakers to SUB.
  • Quadlock Connector C (exit connector) (optional, read step 6).
    https://www.kufatec.com/en/accessor...-quadlock-connector-telephone-33369?tab=frage
  • Terminals
    You can buy them from Audi (very exspensive) or buy them from from our Chinese friends on Ali for much cheaper
Montage:

Step 1)
- Demontage the doorcards or your rear doors.
- Demontage the sill trims by pullen them up.
- Demontage the lower B-pillar trim by pulling it towards you, it's hold by 2 clips.

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Step 2)
This step can be done two ways. The original way or the "own-created" way. Since there are no speakers installed from factory the wiring loom doesn't have any cables for them included. This means that the connector in the rubber 1. Need to be pinned by you to connect it to a original doorloom that has speaker connectors on it. Or, 2. you will pull your own wiring through. I chose for step 2.

So I taped the cables on my screwdriver, went in the door with my arm and poked t small hole in the rubber to feed the cable through (it can be done neater, be my guest). I then pulled the cables through next to the door connector and pulled them inside the car. Obviously repeat this step on the other side aswell.

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Step 3)
I won't go to deep into how to feed your cables through the car.. To feed the cables on a neat way to the AMP/SUB in the trunk you need to take your rear interior out. The rearsit will pop-out by pulling it up and the rear backrest are hold in place with a locking mechanism in the trunk. You can unscrew it using a TX25 and then you can unlock the backrest and slide it out.

To take the side cover off, the place where the sub is going, pull the plastic trim covering the trunk lock in the middle of the trunk upwards. It's hold by 4 clips so shouldn't be to hard.

The sidecover is hold by 1 screw next to the trunklight, it's a TX15 or 25. When that one is out gently pull the cover towards you from the outer side (see pic below). The clip should pop loose and before pulling any further get your hand behind it and take the trunklight out.

To completely remove the trim gently pull further. Audi shoved the trim behind a piece of plasic next to the rear left door so pull it out and wiggle it a bit, it came out very easy for me.

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Step 4)
Place the subwoofer in the desired place. The SUB is hold by three bolts. The cut should be perfect for the subwoofer to fit in.

The cables that you run from the HU to the SUB need to go into the blue SUB connector. The pinout for this connector is shown in the table under the pictures.

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Step 5)
Crimp the cables in the blue connector with the desired terminals and feed the cables through as noted below.

Note:
the constant 12V and GND on PIN 1/2 are thicker then the other cables, I used 2,5MM cables for these.

I ran the cables as follows:
[1] GND = To a proper groundpoint under the steeringwheel column (RHD) for a LHD this will be under the glovebox A-pillar (see picture below).
[2] Constant 12V = I've pulled a cable from my battery through the firewall into the fusebox, I've feed the 12V from the sub to the fusebox aswell and put both cables in an empty slot connecting them with a 10A fuse.
[3] RR- = speaker right door
[4] RR+ = speaker right door
[5] RL- = speaker left door
[6] RL+ = speaker left door
[7] Remote AMP = feed the cable under the sills to the back of your HU.
[8] RR in = feed the cable under the sills to the back of your HU.
[9] RR/RL GND = feed the cable under the sills to the back of your HU.
[10] RL in = feed the cable under the sills to the back of your HU.

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Step 6)
Now connecting the SUB wires to your HU. Every HU differs in pinout, I will try to cover most of the original HU's to connect the Blaupunk sub/amp to it.

RNS-e:
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Chorus 2:
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Concert II:
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Step 7)
Make sure you crimped everything good and the copper and pins are making good contact. Now there is only one more thing to test, blast the speakers out!



I'm not god, can't know it all nor make clean how-to's. So if you spot something you doubt or know is entirely wrong please leave a message in this topic as I'm all about spreading the info. I'am struggling retrofitting some things and can't thank the people enough who made the information available for me to also succeed.

Good luck, and if you have any questions please let me know!
 

Troubs12

Active Member
VCDS Map User
Mate that’s a quality write up. When I did it I made the first loom with Ethernet cable for the signal wires. It worked great for years. But then I found a a3 complete loom on eBay for next to nothing that had Bose and removed the Bose part. So now it’s got a factory loom but too be honest I wish I’d had taken the pics like you have and put together a good guide


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Troubs12

Active Member
VCDS Map User
Also if anyone needs or wants a Bose amp for a 5 door A3 I have a spare


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Can a MOD please remove "BOSE" from the topic title, I don't cover the BOSE wiring as this needs some additional wiring into the HU and AMP/SUB :D.
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
Great post, but did you leave those wires external on the rear door hinges rubbers?
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Great post, but did you leave those wires external on the rear door hinges rubbers?

I eventually taped them in with electric tape, but I'm planning in buying myself some original doorlooms and repinning the connectors as I want it al OEM :).
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Optional step:

The original sub has 2 CAN ports, CAN HI and CAN LO. These ports are used to communicate with the module in the radio. I know that for the RNS-e you can code it so it knows there are multiple speakers for charistics. Not sure about other models.

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Feed the CAN-HI and CAN-LO to the back of the HU and splice them into the infotainment CAN-lines as follows:

RNS-e:
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Chorus 2:
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Concert II:
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Coding
RNS-e: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_Radio/Navigation_System_(RNS-E)
Chorus/Concert II: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_Radio_Generation_II
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
Site Sponsor
VCDS Map User
I eventually taped them in with electric tape, but I'm planning in buying myself some original doorlooms and repinning the connectors as I want it al OEM :).

Just use repair wires for each end into the connectors, no need for new looms as I'm sure your wirings just as good.
 

NicoVw

New Member
Hey mate! I'm reading your post about the Audi Sound System. It really helps a lot! And if you don't mind I need to install the Blaukpunt subwoofer in another car with all the speakers exept for the sub, so I'll only need the subwoofer sound. My question is: Can I send only R+L signal (powered) from the original car Audio Stereo and the +12v from the battery and the Ground from one screw on the car?
It will work ? Please correct me if I'm wrong with something!
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Hey mate! I'm reading your post about the Audi Sound System. It really helps a lot! And if you don't mind I need to install the Blaukpunt subwoofer in another car with all the speakers exept for the sub, so I'll only need the subwoofer sound. My question is: Can I send only R+L signal (powered) from the original car Audio Stereo and the +12v from the battery and the Ground from one screw on the car?
It will work ? Please correct me if I'm wrong with something!

The Blaupunkt subwoofer has an amplifier build into it. This means it's "poweres" (amplifies) the RR and RL soundlines to the backspeakers.
If I get you correctly, yes, your headunit (radio) sends signals to the frontspeakers (FR/FL). Most headunits (radio's) have small amplifiers in them. If you mean that you want to power ALL speakers (so 2 front and 2 back) from the subwoofer, no that is not possible, it don't have enough channels and power for that. Therefor you should install a BOSÉ kit with a seperate amplifier on the right side of the trunk.
 

NicoVw

New Member
Thanks! My question is, can I send the powered signal from the headunit to the amplifier on the subwoofer? Because my radio sends the signal to the all speakers but doesn't have an extra output for subwoofers. So my idea was take the signals from the backspeakers and put it in the signal input on the sub or I will damage it? Thanks a lot!
 

NicoVw

New Member
Thanks! My question is, can I send the powered signal from the headunit to the amplifier on the subwoofer? Because my radio sends the signal to the all speakers but doesn't have an extra output for subwoofers. So my idea was take the signals from the backspeakers and put it in the signal input on the sub or I will damage it? Thanks a lot!
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Thanks! My question is, can I send the powered signal from the headunit to the amplifier on the subwoofer? Because my radio sends the signal to the all speakers but doesn't have an extra output for subwoofers. So my idea was take the signals from the backspeakers and put it in the signal input on the sub or I will damage it? Thanks a lot!

What radio are you using? If I read your message your headunit got a build in AMP to power 4 or 5 channels.

The Blaupunk subwoofer from Audi got a build in amplifier in it that needs a signal from the headunit to turn on (remote turnON AMP). It then amplifies LR and RR signals to the back speakers and do it's work as a subwoofer. So unfortunatly, no you cant amplify your front speakers with it and you need a radio that support a 12v power on AMP (remote) cable when it's turned on.

As you can see below the plug that goes into the woofer doesn't have any PINS for FR/FL (front right and front left).

Signals RL/RR come in on the plug on the left side, they get amped in the subwoofer itself by the build-in amplifier and then go out on the right side of the plug. You can however add an extra subwoofer to it but wiring the middle 2 pins as shown below.
soundsystem0.jpg
 

NicoVw

New Member
Thanks again! Actually my idea is to keep the door speakers conected to the radio, connect the subwoofer with 12v, ground and remote as you did. But now I only need the audio signal to the subwoofer. Can I use the signal from the rear speakers ? I'm not sure because the signal is already amplified from the radio. :blackrs4:
 

NicoVw

New Member
Hey! I already installed the whole system (the subwoofer amp has already an build in crossover?) exept for the tweeters I don't know the polarity, can you please tell me which one of the two sides of the tweeter is te + ?
 

kambi29

Registered User
Hello, really great job you did there @henkkeumus ! My car does not have rear speakers as well and the HU is Chorus II+ which i will change to rns-e so i bought bose system 4 speakers plus sub and amp together with the connectors to the sub and amp (10-15cm of cables) and as i understand there is quite a bit difference in the wiring to the separate bose amp is there any guide like this or can u explain where are these differences? I would be really grateful if you can help me!
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Hello, really great job you did there @henkkeumus ! My car does not have rear speakers as well and the HU is Chorus II+ which i will change to rns-e so i bought bose system 4 speakers plus sub and amp together with the connectors to the sub and amp (10-15cm of cables) and as i understand there is quite a bit difference in the wiring to the separate bose amp is there any guide like this or can u explain where are these differences? I would be really grateful if you can help me!

I will hop on Elsa and look for the wiring graphs for you tomorrow bud.
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic

kambi29

Registered User
Thanks, I think I will have a lot of work, but anyway, my a3 is 5 door, and i do not have the treble speakers for the back doors and as i can see there should be no problem wiring the system without them?
 

henkkeumus

Dutch Retrofitfanatic
Thanks, I think I will have a lot of work, but anyway, my a3 is 5 door, and i do not have the treble speakers for the back doors and as i can see there should be no problem wiring the system without them?

No problem indeed. There should be a LR, RR, FR, and FL which obviously go to your speakers (left rear, front right etc..) if you only wire up your FRONTS youshould be good to go if that makes sense to you
 
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