WX51TXR
Polished Bliss
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
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- 1,452
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- Location
- AB51 0TH
- Website
- www.polishedbliss.co.uk
One of the questions that pops up time and time again on here is how do I remove swirl marks and scratches from my paint? Rather than continuing to answer these questions one by one, I thought I would take the time to write a pictorial guide instead. This will hopefully save me some time on the forums, and also serve to reinforce the methods and products we recommend for this task. Some of you will be aiming to try and correct your paint by hand, while others of you will be using dual action machines this guide will cover both approaches. Okay, here we go...
How to safely and effectively correct your paint by hand
If you choose to work by hand on harder paints you've got little chance of removing all of the defects present, so often the best bet is to use a glaze like Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze or Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish to fill and hide the defects and then seal the finish with a decent wax or sealant (to boost the gloss and lock in the fillers). This approach is straightforward and relatively easy in terms of product application and removal. However, if you are happy to put in a lot of hard work, then it is possible to achieve a reasonable degree of correction by hand, providing you use a polish with a high degree of cut but that also breaks down effectively with just hand pressure. Few polishes have these characteristics, but one that does and that we highly recommend is Menzerna Intensive Polish. Here is an example of what can be achieved with it...
Before
All of the usual suspects can be seen here; marring, swirl marks and deeper random scratches. Once again note that swirl marks are not circular patterns. Instead, they are simply the result of a lighting source reflecting off of the edges of widespread multi-directional random fine scratches...
Step 1
There are many different types of polish available on the market today, but one of the few that is capable of producing excellent results when working by hand on hard paint is Menzerna Intensive Polish. I recommend applying it using the white side of a German Pad, and buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel...
Step 2
This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 3
Note that when you first start working it in the residue is a solid looking white colour. You should work the polish in straight lines in all directions using firm pressure...
Step 4
Keep working the polish firmly until the residue thins out and turns clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint. I usually find each area needs to be worked for a good 3-4 minutes before the residue is ready to be buffed off...
Step 5
Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of hard work...
Around 80% correction I would say, which isnt bad at all considering the state of the paint to begin with. However, the deeper random scratches are still visible, and while you could of course keep on and on with the Intensive Polish in an attempt to remove them, a better bet is to accept from the off that full correction can only really be achieved using a machine. Right then, lets take care of those remaining deeper scratches with a machine...
How to safely and effectively correct your paint by dual action machine
Whilst it is relatively easy to swirl harder paints up, it is very difficult to subsequently correct them, as we saw above. Harder paints almost always comprise the standard 3 layer system used by most car manufacturers (primer, pigment, lacquer), but the lacquer tends to be elastic (to better resist stone chipping) as well as resistant to polishing. To fully correct defects in such clearcoats requires polishes with ultra-fine, ultra-sharp particles that resist premature breakdown. The latest generation of polishes from Menzerna hits both of these nails squarely on the head and Lake Country's CCS Technology pads have been designed to work perfectly with these polishes. Here is the method I recommend using a dual action machine...
Before
Just a quick reminder of the defects remaining after a tiring session of hand polishing...
Step 1
My product of choice for deeper defect removal in harder paints is Menzerna RD3.02. It is quite simply a brilliant product, having enough bite to tackle most defects, yet finishing down almost as well as a finishing polish...
Step 2
In this example, I am using a small Lake Country CCS Light Cut Spot Pad in order to allow you to see more of how the polish is behaving as I work it; however, the method is identical whether you are working with spot pads or full size pads. This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 3
Before starting the machine, it is important to partially spread the polish by dabbing the pad evenly all over the work area...
Step 4
With the pad touching the panel, switch the machine on at speed 1, and make several overlapping passes to spread the polish thinly and evenly over the work area...
Step 5
With the spreading done, increase the speed of the machine to between 4 and 5 on the dial. Then, applying light to moderate pressure, work the machine slowly back and forth over the work area in overlapping passes. I tend to favour moving the machine around at a rate of 4-6 inches per second. Note that during the early stages of the work the residue remains a solid looking white colour.
Step 6
After a few minutes you will see the residue thin out and turn clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint...
Step 7
Once the polish residue is fully broken down, switch off the machine with the pad held against the panel, and then buff off, turning the towel regularly (again I recommend buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel). Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of much easier work...
Step 8
Now we have a finish that is 95% corrected, with just a few feint traces of previous deeper defects. However, the finish isnt quite as sharp as it could be, so following up with an ultra-fine finishing polish is necessary if we want to achieve a truly stunning finish. My product of choice for refining hard paints is Menzerna 85RD. It is a superb finishing polish, with minimal cut but maximum gloss enhancing characteristics. You dont quite appreciate how much sharper it makes paint look until you try it...
Step 9
In this example, I am using a small Lake Country CCS Polishing Spot Pad in order to allow you to see more of how the polish is behaving as I work it; however, the method is identical whether you are working with spot pads or full size pads. This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 10
Before starting the machine, it is important to partially spread the polish by dabbing the pad evenly all over the work area...
Step 11
With the pad touching the panel, switch the machine on at speed 1, and make several overlapping passes to spread the polish thinly and evenly over the work area...
Step 12
With the spreading done, increase the speed of the machine to between 4 and 5 on the dial. Then, applying light to moderate pressure, work the machine slowly back and forth over the work area in overlapping passes. I tend to favour moving the machine around at a rate of 4-6 inches per second. Note that during the early stages of the work the residue remains a solid looking purple colour...
Step 13
After a few minutes you will see the residue thin out and turn clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint...
Step 14
Once the polish residue is fully broken down, switch off the machine with the pad held against the panel, and then buff off, turning the towel regularly (again I recommend buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel). Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of refining the finish to perfection...
Around 99% correction or more I would say, and certainly enough to ensure a flawless looking finish in full sun conditions. With the polishing stages complete, all that remains is to seal the finish against the elements using either a sealant or wax. The choice of sealant or wax can greatly alter the way the paint looks, and for more information please see the other sticky threads discussing what to use and why on various coloured paints. I hope that helps some of you, and as always if anyone has any questions please dont hesitate to ask either below, by pm, by e-mail or by phone.
How to safely and effectively correct your paint by hand
If you choose to work by hand on harder paints you've got little chance of removing all of the defects present, so often the best bet is to use a glaze like Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze or Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish to fill and hide the defects and then seal the finish with a decent wax or sealant (to boost the gloss and lock in the fillers). This approach is straightforward and relatively easy in terms of product application and removal. However, if you are happy to put in a lot of hard work, then it is possible to achieve a reasonable degree of correction by hand, providing you use a polish with a high degree of cut but that also breaks down effectively with just hand pressure. Few polishes have these characteristics, but one that does and that we highly recommend is Menzerna Intensive Polish. Here is an example of what can be achieved with it...
Before
All of the usual suspects can be seen here; marring, swirl marks and deeper random scratches. Once again note that swirl marks are not circular patterns. Instead, they are simply the result of a lighting source reflecting off of the edges of widespread multi-directional random fine scratches...
Step 1
There are many different types of polish available on the market today, but one of the few that is capable of producing excellent results when working by hand on hard paint is Menzerna Intensive Polish. I recommend applying it using the white side of a German Pad, and buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel...
Step 2
This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 3
Note that when you first start working it in the residue is a solid looking white colour. You should work the polish in straight lines in all directions using firm pressure...
Step 4
Keep working the polish firmly until the residue thins out and turns clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint. I usually find each area needs to be worked for a good 3-4 minutes before the residue is ready to be buffed off...
Step 5
Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of hard work...
Around 80% correction I would say, which isnt bad at all considering the state of the paint to begin with. However, the deeper random scratches are still visible, and while you could of course keep on and on with the Intensive Polish in an attempt to remove them, a better bet is to accept from the off that full correction can only really be achieved using a machine. Right then, lets take care of those remaining deeper scratches with a machine...
How to safely and effectively correct your paint by dual action machine
Whilst it is relatively easy to swirl harder paints up, it is very difficult to subsequently correct them, as we saw above. Harder paints almost always comprise the standard 3 layer system used by most car manufacturers (primer, pigment, lacquer), but the lacquer tends to be elastic (to better resist stone chipping) as well as resistant to polishing. To fully correct defects in such clearcoats requires polishes with ultra-fine, ultra-sharp particles that resist premature breakdown. The latest generation of polishes from Menzerna hits both of these nails squarely on the head and Lake Country's CCS Technology pads have been designed to work perfectly with these polishes. Here is the method I recommend using a dual action machine...
Before
Just a quick reminder of the defects remaining after a tiring session of hand polishing...
Step 1
My product of choice for deeper defect removal in harder paints is Menzerna RD3.02. It is quite simply a brilliant product, having enough bite to tackle most defects, yet finishing down almost as well as a finishing polish...
Step 2
In this example, I am using a small Lake Country CCS Light Cut Spot Pad in order to allow you to see more of how the polish is behaving as I work it; however, the method is identical whether you are working with spot pads or full size pads. This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 3
Before starting the machine, it is important to partially spread the polish by dabbing the pad evenly all over the work area...
Step 4
With the pad touching the panel, switch the machine on at speed 1, and make several overlapping passes to spread the polish thinly and evenly over the work area...
Step 5
With the spreading done, increase the speed of the machine to between 4 and 5 on the dial. Then, applying light to moderate pressure, work the machine slowly back and forth over the work area in overlapping passes. I tend to favour moving the machine around at a rate of 4-6 inches per second. Note that during the early stages of the work the residue remains a solid looking white colour.
Step 6
After a few minutes you will see the residue thin out and turn clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint...
Step 7
Once the polish residue is fully broken down, switch off the machine with the pad held against the panel, and then buff off, turning the towel regularly (again I recommend buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel). Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of much easier work...
Step 8
Now we have a finish that is 95% corrected, with just a few feint traces of previous deeper defects. However, the finish isnt quite as sharp as it could be, so following up with an ultra-fine finishing polish is necessary if we want to achieve a truly stunning finish. My product of choice for refining hard paints is Menzerna 85RD. It is a superb finishing polish, with minimal cut but maximum gloss enhancing characteristics. You dont quite appreciate how much sharper it makes paint look until you try it...
Step 9
In this example, I am using a small Lake Country CCS Polishing Spot Pad in order to allow you to see more of how the polish is behaving as I work it; however, the method is identical whether you are working with spot pads or full size pads. This is how much polish I recommend using per 12-18 square area. Use any less and very little correction will be done, use any more and you will struggle to break it down fully...
Step 10
Before starting the machine, it is important to partially spread the polish by dabbing the pad evenly all over the work area...
Step 11
With the pad touching the panel, switch the machine on at speed 1, and make several overlapping passes to spread the polish thinly and evenly over the work area...
Step 12
With the spreading done, increase the speed of the machine to between 4 and 5 on the dial. Then, applying light to moderate pressure, work the machine slowly back and forth over the work area in overlapping passes. I tend to favour moving the machine around at a rate of 4-6 inches per second. Note that during the early stages of the work the residue remains a solid looking purple colour...
Step 13
After a few minutes you will see the residue thin out and turn clear this indicates that the abrasives are properly broken down. Dont be tempted to give up before this happens, otherwise the level of correction will be lower than expected, and you may also leave marring in the paint...
Step 14
Once the polish residue is fully broken down, switch off the machine with the pad held against the panel, and then buff off, turning the towel regularly (again I recommend buffing off the spent residue with a Poorboys Super Thick & Plush Towel). Here is the result of 3-4 minutes of refining the finish to perfection...
Around 99% correction or more I would say, and certainly enough to ensure a flawless looking finish in full sun conditions. With the polishing stages complete, all that remains is to seal the finish against the elements using either a sealant or wax. The choice of sealant or wax can greatly alter the way the paint looks, and for more information please see the other sticky threads discussing what to use and why on various coloured paints. I hope that helps some of you, and as always if anyone has any questions please dont hesitate to ask either below, by pm, by e-mail or by phone.
