Hold Assist retrofit

[Rjw76]

Good afternoon all,

I’m hoping for some help here from anyone who’ve retrofitted hold assist themselves... I have bought the retrofit kit from Kufatec - the provided instructions say to route the cable into the engine bay through the grommet in the driver’s footwell. I’ve just spent 2 hours looking for that ****** grommet and I can’t find it at all!! You’d think it would be obvious, but I’m totally flummoxed.

Has anyone done this and, if so, exactly how/where did you route the wire into the engine bay?

Thanks very much!

 

[DJAlix]

Good afternoon all,

I’m hoping for some help here from anyone who’ve retrofitted hold assist themselves... I have bought the retrofit kit from Kufatec - the provided instructions say to route the cable into the engine bay through the grommet in the driver’s footwell. I’ve just spent 2 hours looking for that ****** grommet and I can’t find it at all!! You’d think it would be obvious, but I’m totally flummoxed.

Has anyone done this and, if so, exactly how/where did you route the wire into the engine bay?

Thanks very much!

Look behind your abs pump and you will see another rubber grommet which enters the vehicle just behind the glovebox, use this one as it’s easier and also the shortest route.

 

[Rjw76]

Thanks @DJAlix , I assume that requires removal of the glove box? I can’t see the grommet from the engine bay, so I’ll take a look from the other side.

 

[DJAlix]

Thanks @DJAlix , I assume that requires removal of the glove box? I can’t see the grommet from the engine bay, so I’ll take a look from the other side.

Much easier if you do remove the glovebox but not needed.

look behind youR abs pump, to the right, and you will see the main engine wiring loom entering the firewall, that’s the grommet.

 

[Rjw76]

Ok, great, I can see it all now. I’m stuck now until I get the CD player removal tool, but it should be straightforward after that. According to the instructions I need to attach 2 wires to the body control module - is that located by the fuse box, and accessible once the glovebox is removed? My manual seems to imply that it is on the drivers side, but I can only find reference to a ‘vehicle electrical system control module’ not a ‘body control module’ - I don’t know if that’s the same thing or not!

 

[DJAlix]

Ok, great, I can see it all now. I’m stuck now until I get the CD player removal tool, but it should be straightforward after that. According to the instructions I need to attach 2 wires to the body control module - is that located by the fuse box, and accessible once the glovebox is removed? My manual seems to imply that it is on the drivers side, but I can only find reference to a ‘vehicle electrical system control module’ not a ‘body control module’ - I don’t know if that’s the same thing or not!

Erm, there are no connections that go to the BCM, which is located in the space between the fuse box and the passenger wing in RHD cars. You need to make two connections to the EPB, one to power, two connections to the ABS control module / pump if memory serves.

 

[Rjw76]

Hmm, my instructions from Kufatec say (I’ve typed it out as I couldn’t do a screen shot):

2. Look for a free ignition plus K1.15 slot in the fuse box by using a multi metre. Pin the cable for ignition plus in the slot and secure it with a 15 A fuse.

3. Remove Plug C from the body control module. Unlock the plug and connect the single white cable to pin 62 for the button lighting.

In addition to that are the 2 cables that go through into the engine bay to the ABS unit, the ground cable and obviously the connection to the back of the HA button.

(I’m assuming the ‘ignition plus K1.15’ slot in the fuse box is referring to a spare slot that is 12v when ignition on)...?

 

[DJAlix]

Hmm, my instructions from Kufatec say (I’ve typed it out as I couldn’t do a screen shot):

2. Look for a free ignition plus K1.15 slot in the fuse box by using a multi metre. Pin the cable for ignition plus in the slot and secure it with a 15 A fuse.

3. Remove Plug C from the body control module. Unlock the plug and connect the single white cable to pin 62 for the button lighting.

In addition to that are the 2 cables that go through into the engine bay to the ABS unit, the ground cable and obviously the connection to the back of the HA button.

(I’m assuming the ‘ignition plus K1.15’ slot in the fuse box is referring to a spare slot that is 12v when ignition on)...?

I do 2 to 3 of these a week, never need to connect to the body control module but if that’s what the Kufatec manual says then may the force with with you

 

[Rjw76]

I guess they are both a means to the same end! I’ll see how it goes!

 

[Rcord]

3. Remove Plug C from the body control module. Unlock the plug and connect the single white cable to pin 62 for the button lighting.

I connected hold assist button lighting to the parking brake button light wire. I think that's what most retrofitters do.

 

[Rjw76]

Ok, but surely the AH light is independent of the parking brake ( I.e. you may have the AH selected but not have the parking brake on, or visa versa)?

 

[Sorinfrantzu]

You don't need to use the 62 pin in bcm
You can take this directly from the parking brake button, the wiring have the same colour, this wiring it's for light your buton wen you start the lights, not for the red light in the buton that start when the hill hold it's activate

 

[Sorinfrantzu]

You need:
1wiring to fuse box,
1wiring to ground,
1wiring to parking brake ( or everywhere that you have 12 V wen lights are on )
2wiring to ABS pump

 

[Rjw76]

That definitely seems simpler... and logical! Thanks.

 

[Khufu]

I found hardest part was getting through bulkhead. I've rhd A3 and I had to poke a welding rod through from the engine bay through to the cabin as there is insulation hiding the channel.

 

[Rjw76]

I found hardest part was getting through bulkhead. I've rhd A3 and I had to poke a welding rod through from the engine bay through to the cabin as there is insulation hiding the channel.

With the grommet between the engine bay/cabin, did you just poke a hole in it? I noticed that the cables that are there already have the cloth tape wrapped around incorporating the grommet so it can’t see how I would slide the wires through it without making a new hole in it?

 

[Peter Peter]

I was thinking having hold assist but what for, when car won't move at all.. When I start moving on hill, I can hear rear brakes squeak little bit even when I put foot of the brake pedal means they are still engaged and car is obviously on gear 1 so will start moving forward automatically.. and rear brakes will auto release after..

 

[Rjw76]

Ok, I’ve been doing this retrofit today, but am now stuck at the last bit... how do you get the wires into the back of the ABS pump plug? They seem to have to go down along way into the plug, but there’s no room to push them with anything apart from just feeding the actual wire in, which obviously just bends! There must be a knack to this, but I don’t know what it is!

Can anyone who’s done this retrofit help??

Thanks very much.

 

[Peter Peter]

Ok, I’ve been doing this retrofit today, but am now stuck at the last bit... how do you get the wires into the back of the ABS pump plug? They seem to have to go down along way into the plug, but there’s no room to push them with anything apart from just feeding the actual wire in, which obviously just bends! There must be a knack to this, but I don’t know what it is!

Can anyone who’s done this retrofit help??

Thanks very much.

Why messing for such useless feature..

 

[Rcord]

Ok, I’ve been doing this retrofit today, but am now stuck at the last bit... how do you get the wires into the back of the ABS pump plug? They seem to have to go down along way into the plug, but there’s no room to push them with anything apart from just feeding the actual wire in, which obviously just bends! There must be a knack to this, but I don’t know what it is!.

The connector has an internal pink/purple plastic lock that holds all terminals in place. You have to slide it before inserting or removing any terminals. In order to move it you have to push through a square hole at the side of the connector. There is a picture from a similar discussion in another thread.
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/wiring-cables-to-engine-compartment.415786/#post-3561245
The square hole is marked with a yellow circle in the picture. After placing the terminals, you have to return the lock into place by pushing through a hole at the opposite side. Is that what you are looking for?

 

[Rjw76]

Thanks for this - glad I’m not the only one having these issues! After posting that question I figured out that you can remove the plastic ‘guide’ out of the main plug moulding, and then also slip back the bit of silicon/rubber that fits around the individual cables. At that point I stoped because it was getting dark and I was getting stressed!

I’m hoping that a fresh start today will yield results (fingers crossed). I have a couple of questions you might be able to help with though:

I messed around so much with that clip that I’m not sure which side of the pink plastic is which... which side should be pushed in to lock it all in place before reconnecting to the car - the side int he picture above, or the other side?

Secondly, once I’ve got it back together, does the grey level on the plug slide back the other way easily or is there a knack to that? (I ask because I’m getting conscious that this plug is getting a lot of abuse from me at the moment as I try to figure out what to do!

Thanks very much.

 

[Rcord]

I messed around so much with that clip that I’m not sure which side of the pink plastic is which... which side should be pushed in to lock it all in place before reconnecting to the car - the side int he picture above, or the other side?

Secondly, once I’ve got it back together, does the grey level on the plug slide back the other way easily or is there a knack to that? (I ask because I’m getting conscious that this plug is getting a lot of abuse from me at the moment as I try to figure out what to do!

I don't remember which side locks or unlocks, sorry for that, but I think you may be able to figure it out by looking at the contacts side of the connector, visible parts of the pink plastic lock may give you a hint. Usually, open locks extend a tab that blocks the insertion of the connector in the module.

I had some difficulties in putting the connector back in place in my first attempt, but it was because I failed to mount the terminal block in the housing correctly. The grey lever closed normally but when I switched ignition on a lot of alerts appeared. After mounting the connector correctly, everything worked fine. I don't think you'll have any problems.