Hibiscus Red TQS - New Car, New Project, cars been here before though.

Well a week of running, can’t say I can see it’s dropped more. Sandip certainly said he noticed a difference when he spotted me around town. I’ll be honest……..I thought the ride might have been a little more supple now I’ve had time to get a good feeling of it. But I can live with it.

My lower door strips arrived today from Latvia. These were the only ones I could lay my hands on since the Genuine ones are now long gone. I did think I had some new plastic clips to hold them on. But having replaced the ones on the passenger door, it seems my clips make the trim sit proud of the door slightly. So I’ll have to try and find the correct ones. I’ve cleaned all the crud off the door also, there is some small patches of corrosion, but nothing I’m really worried about currently. I also had to get the white spirit out and rub this horrible shiny top layer off they came with. Horrendous, I think when the strips were packaged they were still wet, so the nylon bags they were in, stuck to the strips making a right old mess. All looking good now.

I also took apart the shocks, as I’ll look to sell the springs on to those who need them. I now know why the car was higher on one side at the back, an issue highlighted by the previous owner MaverickTDI. Looks like somebody put an aftermarket special spring on, which was nowhere near the sport spec spring.
I think my shocks were shafted too, can’t quite believe the state of them. The top arms when removed, the inner bushes were actually loose in their casings. No wonder the car feels so much more planted at the rear now.

So cars all polished now, for a trip to Oulton Park for the BTCC tomorrow. Not sure if anybody else is going? Had a fair few admirers last year and it was nowhere near the condition it’s in now. If anybody’s there, come say hi!

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Managed to get a job done tonight, and thank holy god it’s now done. Was attempting previously to try and get the yoke out of the prop shaft. But along came injury and some other issues. Couldn’t get my press to do it as the arbors wouldn’t stay still. So some brute force and ignorance combined with using the vice as a press, and it’s out. Managed to grind out the stake marks, being careful not to grind too much off. Just need to press the bearing caps in, and then improvise a staking tool to stake the new end caps in place. I stopped going any further as I want to add more grease to the bearing caps, and I don’t have any lithium grease.

I also got my caliper halves back from a friend who has media blasted them. So have sprayed these with 3 coats of colour, and 2 of lacquer. Hoping with these fitted the alignment should be much better. I’m trusting it that much that I’m going to order to better discs, and new pads as well.

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Calipers done today, bleed nipples were a bit rubbish, struggled to undo them, even with heat. So took them out, got a wore brush on the thread and reinstalled with a sliver of copper grease. I’ll have to find time in the weeks ahead to reinstall everything.

I also managed to spend time doing the prop shaft today. Was so relieved to get the older UJ out, I was inspired to carry on this evening and get the new one in. Used the vice to close the caps into the prop, filled with all new Lithium grease. Once in, I used a 20p, and closed the caps in to the depth of the 20p. Once everything was installed, I needed to stake them. I’ve tried and tried to get a staking tool, but cannot get one on its own. So I adopted another strategy I’ve seen done, a cold chisel. Managed to use the corner of the chisel, to get the correct result. Once all the stakes done, I sprayed it with under seal as it looked a bit snappy all rusty. I do have a brand new prop bearing to go on also, still deciding if Im going to use the standard bearing carrier, or an aftermarket version. Brand new prop joints at each end as well. Hopefully this will go some ways to address the banging and bearing whirring noise.

Im happy now though, as the prop is ready to go on, as is the exhaust!


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Little bit of work at weekend. Managed to get the prop shaft completely rebuilt now, with the dreaded bolt wound back in, and the centre prop bearing pressed into position. I’m not putting the outer CV’s on until it’s being fitted To save any damage.

The new drivers door handle is fitted now also, looks 100% better, and the tension on the handle spring makes door latching a lot better.

Also saw something that’s been winding me up for a while, a replacement cigar lighter assembly. Just need to get that fitted now.
Has anybody ever seen a ‘how to’ on replacing the armrest internal mechanism? To stop it clicking down randomly when you lean on it? I have a spare armrest (in blue) which I’d pull apart to swap parts out with if it was an easy-ish job.

Anyway, hopefully some more parts from AUTODOC tomorrow. Can fit the original calipers then.

Last picture is now Ive just washed it, in some ways I wish the suspension was a bit lower. But then I drive it on the fantastic roads around Bolton and I know any lower would be a mistake.

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Managed to get the newly repainted ‘Genuine’ calipers fitted on this Thursday this week. Bled up using a power bleeder, things certainly went back together a lot better with these calipers. Pads slotted straight in, no bending, the pad retainer on the outside slotted straight in, was a breeze. Gave it friday to see if there was any catching, and there wasn’t. So just goes to prove, all the trouble I’ve had with these brakes is thanks to using non-Genuine aftermarket calipers. There’s a moral here somewhere. I did however have quite a long pedal on test drive however, so I’m thinking there is air somewhere in the system.
So today I’ve got up early to fit the new Zimmerman discs, TRW pads and bleed all 4 corners again. All went together really well. And this time round I sprayed the pad retainers in black enamel, with an ‘S’ sticker to finish off. I know some wont like that at all, but I thought it finished it off, and looks in keeping with modern big brakes. This time on test drive there was no long pedal, and the brakes felt great. Should feel better once everything’s bedded in.
I really wanted to get some more jobs done, as I’ve got a new rad fan, as this replacement unit I got from Edinburgh is noisy. Plus I really wanted to get the new cig lighter surround in. But in this weather, I’m not going to do mechanics especially inside a car.

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After:
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And with the wheel back on:

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New parcel arrived today as well. A Mishimoto universal power steering oil cooler. So now I can find some time to fit the intercooler I’ve already got. I really didn’t want the original oil cooler just cable tied on like I’ve seen with some installations. So this should look a hell of a lot tidier. I’ve a funny feeling I’ll be fitting a new P/s pump when I fit this though, as it’s really starting to wine now.

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Great progress on this mate! I agree with the weather it’s not kind to any work being done at all!

Loving the brakes, really does make it look cleaner i the wheels!


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Well a week of running, can’t say I can see it’s dropped more. Sandip certainly said he noticed a difference when he spotted me around town. I’ll be honest……..I thought the ride might have been a little more supple now I’ve had time to get a good feeling of it. But I can live with it.

My lower door strips arrived today from Latvia. These were the only ones I could lay my hands on since the Genuine ones are now long gone. I did think I had some new plastic clips to hold them on. But having replaced the ones on the passenger door, it seems my clips make the trim sit proud of the door slightly. So I’ll have to try and find the correct ones. I’ve cleaned all the crud off the door also, there is some small patches of corrosion, but nothing I’m really worried about currently. I also had to get the white spirit out and rub this horrible shiny top layer off they came with. Horrendous, I think when the strips were packaged they were still wet, so the nylon bags they were in, stuck to the strips making a right old mess. All looking good now.

I also took apart the shocks, as I’ll look to sell the springs on to those who need them. I now know why the car was higher on one side at the back, an issue highlighted by the previous owner MaverickTDI. Looks like somebody put an aftermarket special spring on, which was nowhere near the sport spec spring.
I think my shocks were shafted too, can’t quite believe the state of them. The top arms when removed, the inner bushes were actually loose in their casings. No wonder the car feels so much more planted at the rear now.

So cars all polished now, for a trip to Oulton Park for the BTCC tomorrow. Not sure if anybody else is going? Had a fair few admirers last year and it was nowhere near the condition it’s in now. If anybody’s there, come say hi!

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Ahh mate I got the same side trims and the bag they came in made a permanent indent in the things. I'll get some white spirit on them too, it's a horrid shine on them!!
 
Yeah there isn’t really a out of choice with these trims anymore. Have to get what you can from the eastern block. The good thing is, with all that horrible shiny stuff off, they actually look ok. Thank god.
 
got busy with the lower rear arms this weekend. A friend gave me this Triflow stuff, which I coated the brake hose unions with, and my my they came undone pretty much straight away. So brake pipes off, brake cables off, and then a right old task of removing the old bushes and chiselling out the metal casings. What a nightmare. So I’ll get to these over to my friend this week, he’s told me he’s going to do his best to get the rear uprights, driveshafts, and wishbones done as soon as he can. The it’s a case of building everything back up, make sure I’ve got replacement bolts, and then choose my week to have it off road to change everything. I’ve already got hold of Powerflex bushes for these arms.
I really think I’m going to need new brake cables, removing the remnants of the old cables from my repacement rear arms required them to be broken. So I guess mine will be the same. Finding new cables though is proving difficult.

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definatly needed all the tools on this bench for this job.

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Few more jobs this weekend. Sorted out my non working siren. Just a little issue that was annoying me. Already bought a later spec siren which wa also capputt, so this the second time of having everything out. Tested this one before I reassembled everything, and it works, hurrah.
Also swapped out the used fan I got last year, the bearings had gone and the noise it was making was also annoying, so installed a brand new NRF fan. Not an easy job to do, but it’s done now.
Also tried rejigging the TIP, which is a silicone one I bought through ECS Tuning. For some reason when I installed my new headlamps, together with the filter box, it was becoming squashed by the high beam bulb door on the headlamp. I’ve moved the filter firewall up as far as it will go, and also cut down the TIP. But it’s still squashing it. I’m a bit frustrated by this as I know thats interfering with airflow to the turbo. I’ll have to come back to this, and rejig some more at a later point.
My next jobs I really need done is the prop shaft and exhaust system. Hopefully see about doing them in the next couple weeks.

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Little bit more work done today. The ratcheting armrest is really feeling my head in. So since I have a spare tatty armrest, thought I’d try and take it apart. Once past the horrible circular clip holding the central axle together, it all came apart. I’ve noted the fingers which are operated by the armrest handle. But the fingers are fine, so I focused on the teeth on the upright. Sure enough these fingers were not great. But thes fingers I think will be in far better condition than the one in my car. So I’ve degreased the teeth, pulled all the debris out of the gaps, and then got a triangular file and filed the teeth a little. This sharpened them up, giving more of a step for the fingers to engage with. So…..this weekend, I’ll pull the whole centre console out, again, and try to install my refurbished upright. I’ll fit my new cig lighter surround as well. Small jobs, little steps.


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Well, certainly hot weather this weekend, so glad I installed that new pusher fan so the a/c works as best it can.

Made my mind up I was doing jobs today though, so jobs it was. Took the centre console out (again), and completely disassembled it. Once the armrest itself was in its components form, I chiselled the push fit washers off, took the central axle out, and reinstalled my substitute axle I’ve filed down. Reassembly is really easy, and I bought some more push fit washers off Amazon, so all secured nicely. I also bought some HiFi Speaker cloth, with the intent of templating it, and bonding it to the outside of the armrest shell, which will hopefully stop the god awful squeeking sound the seats make when 2 people are sat up front. Second job was to fit the new cigar lighter assembly I purchased. What I’d didnt know was this assembly is totally different to the normal facelift assembl, looks like it’s missing a piece somehow.
On refitting, the speaker cloth has indeed stopped the Recaro from squeaking. However, the armrest still clicks down. So…..back t the drawing board. I can’t help but feel the locating fingers have lost some springiness and this is making the engagement weak.
Anyway, at 31 degrees, and sweating lile hell, I stopped for the day.

I have got some new wheels though!! I’ll save this illustration for a later date.
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I’ll let this be the only teaser.
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Busy week it turned into. With the forthcoming weeks being hectic, and a looming MOT, with an ABS sensor/ ring requiring replacement, my friend who stepped in to help me got busy.
My rear uprights, hubs, lower wishbones and driveshafts have been media blasted, and then coated in etch primer to stop any corrosion. Plan this week is to get them painted in black, clean out all the threads, clean out all the bearing/bush journals, and start getting everything made up. So glad I can see light at the end of the tunnel with regards to renovating the rear suspension. If I still have a drivetrain knock after all this, then looks like I’ll be fitting a new diff.


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Busy again this afternoon, and last night. I’m actually painting these with a Simoniz paint called underbody guard. So it’s not stonechip, and it’s not under seal. Drys like a thick Matt paint. Hoping this will be durable on these components. Removed all the masking, so now just need a quick flick round with a flap wheel on the bearing journal, and the hub front faces. Then I can start pressing bushes in, and pressing the bearing in. Oh, and assembling the CV’s on the driveshafts of course. I’ll class this as a productive week. So much better without an injury holding you back.

And this week, I’m off to Somerset. So cars going with me, not sure of anybody lives that way but look out for me. I’m also going to Caffeine & Machine on the way down there, never been, and it’s only a minor detour.

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Couple little jobs, since it’s taking me to Somerset on Monday.

The brake pad warning light keeps coming on over bumps, and I already know the wires on the passenger side are shot. Drivers ones not much better. So I bought some plugs with wires already installed. Getting the old wires to tin, so I could solder the new wires on was horrendous, but got it done.

I decide a while ago that if the wires are bad on the temp sensor, then I could be getting bad starting from this wiring when hot. Just like the brake pad warning keeps triggering, the temp sensor could trigger when not needed just because of the wiring. So I’ve fitted the plug today that I bought a while ago. Hot starting so far today has been perfect, but we shall see. I’ve heatshrinked everything, but I need some loom tape and I’ll go over it with that to look a bit tidier.

I also had to renew the temp sender o-ring and plastic clip yesterday. Not sure why but it started weeping. Good timing since it’s doing a lot of miles this week. Did a short journey on Thursday, to find the temp gauge above half way, and then coolant all down the gearbox underneath the temp sender. Awesome. So far the new —ring seems to be holding.

Finally, a wash and a wax ready for tomorrow. Try and get some pics at Caffeine & Machine.


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Mate the paint job looks wicked. I just painted it in situ until I can actually take the whole rear
Subframe out.

Looking gorgeous though!


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Mate the paint job looks wicked. I just painted it in situ until I can actually take the whole rear
Subframe out.

Looking gorgeous though!


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Thank you. Taken a fair amount of preparation to get this far. Hopijg to start rebuilding when I return from holiday. Once it’s all together, should be a weekends work to swap everything over.
I hoping between the driveshaft swap, and the prop shaft swap, the banging from the drivetrain will be eliminated.
 
Nice to have a bit of a break down Somerset way. Called at Caffeine & Machine on the way down, couldn’t resist some photos.

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And some more whoring through Cheddar Gorge.

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Well, not been my week it would appear. Nice week off in Bristol, unfortunately marred by my crashing the Audi into a concrete pillar in a multi-storey. Long story, don’t ask. My new carbon fibre mirror cover on the drivers side is a mess, brand new glass is scratched, this kind I need an entire new mirror unit. But……the drivers door is now badly dented. Really unimpressed with myself. But….I’m going to try and get it fixed this week.
Took the door trim off this yesterday, and removed all the sticky adhesive with a caramel wheel. The state of play was then clearer to see. I’ll take it to a dent specialist on Saturday. Cross my fingers.

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I did get busy with some of my painted rear axle parts though. I’ve got the Powerflex bushes fitted into the arms, plus the brake lines temp installed just to get sizing correct.

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I was looking at getting the correct tools to put my hub carriers together, but, as I work in parts anyway I sent them to a garage who I thought was good enough to do the job for me. Sure enough the hub carriers came back fully built today. And……….well. See below.


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Right now I’m speechless. Subdued. Annoyed. Head in hands.

Let’s hope the dent man can fix my door, and make me feel a little better About this week.
 
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So the visit to mr Dentman paid off yesterday. Left it with him whilst I was at work, and he worked on it all day in between doing other customers. And……..I’m amazed. These things are never perfect, but wow did he try his damndest to get it right. There were also about 4 minor dents in the front door, which he got out, and about 3 dents in the rear door, including a really nasty one. He got them all out. Really impressed. He said the car was clearly looked after, and so was happy to spend time getting it right. He said I should have left him the bump strip though, and he would have made sure anything visual was behind that. So 70 quid later, and my faux pas has been erased (almost).
So I’ve had my DA polisher out today, and done both doors, to make sure any scratches from removing the bump strip were removed. Looking really like glass now.

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So today, once the polishing was done, and the bump strip back on. I got back to building my driveshafts. Outer joints went straight on. Inners not so much, these require a spring washer, and the one that came with the joint was too big. So I’ve had to find a suitable one at work. The straps that came with the boots as well were horrendous. So again i got some more normal ones from work. 1 shaft done, I’ll build the other one evening this week. Then, it’s just a case of removing my squashed bushes from the uprights again. I e bought some Powerflex ones now to keep it simple on installation.

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I also got my loom tape out, and tidied up the wiring on the temp sender. Sure they’ll be those thinking why did he just leave the wiring like that. So it’s all wrapped up tidy now.
Soldering in a new plug however hasn’t fixed the warm start issue. So…….starting to think it could maybe be the fuel pump? Or maybe even leaking injectors. Unsure. Have to do some more research.

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Have you had the compression checked by anychance?

i haven’t had the compression checked no Sandip, it has been something I’ve thought about. Might get my mate to do it in a week or 2.
Thing is, if compression was down, wouldn’t it just struggle to start all the time?
 
i haven’t had the compression checked no Sandip, it has been something I’ve thought about. Might get my mate to do it in a week or 2.
Thing is, if compression was down, wouldn’t it just struggle to start all the time?
I've seen it on another where the compression dropped when it was hot, might not be that but it's worth a check i guess
 
Well, my poly bushes arrived for the lower upright. So I took this evening as the day to remove the incorrectly pressed in bushes. What an absolute pain in the proverbial. Angle grinder, gas torch, brute force and a lump hammer got the brand bushes back out. Nearly had a small fire in the shed, but luckily no incidents. Poly bushes in, and now I’m ready for the complete installation.

So, with any luck, hopefully, in the next couple of weeks I’ll be removing/installing all these components. Plus, fitting the propshaft, plus fitting the full Jetex. Then cross my fingers and hope the knocking from the drive is swapped out also.

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Well, todays the day, or rather, this weekend is the weekend. Had a lot going on in recent weeks, but as my MOT is due on the 10th, it’s make or break this weekend as the ABS light is on with a code indicating drivers rear. So I’ve started with the drivers side. Ive also had some kind of virus for the last 2 weeks, which I’ve still got, so I’ll try my best this weekend but energy levels are at a minimum.

Armed with my persuaders (gas torch, freeze spray, Milwaukee gun), most bolts have come undone quite easily. Getting the driveshaft bolts out was interesting, so I involved my 24” extension in the job. The brake union was also interesting to remove, as I had to be careful, no way I’m dropping the subframe on the floor to replace the entire brake line. Bit of heat and the rubber brake hose exploded which woke me up a little. I’ve taken pictures and measurements of all the castor/camber adjuster bolts, so I can get them near as damn it when reassembling. The only thing that i can’t remove now, is the forward arm bolt. As it’s between the fuel tank and the subframe mount, i can’t get in with a socket and ratchet, let alone a bar. Cant get in with a cutting disc, and I can’t use the gas torch for obvious reasons. (Enough explosions for one day). So now I’m a bit stuck. My decision, is to loosen the subframe bolts on the passenger side, take the bolts out completely on the drivers side, and lower the subframe assembly and diff down on a jack. I’m hoping this will give me enough room to get on the bolt with something heavy and remove it. I’ve got all brand new bolts to go in, so I’m not too fussed how it comes out.

Anyway, by 4pm, I had no energy left, nearly collapsed, so I’ve adjourned for the day, and sent my wife for an 18mm impact socket and 32“ breaker bar from my friend. Heres hoping I’ve got some more energy tomorrow, and the subframe bolts come out more easily than one did today.

The good news is, the wheel bearing is totally gone, with physical play, and every bush I’ve removed so far is toast. So at least all what I’m doing is worthwhile. Seems to be some play in the driveshaft end to end as well. So hopefully feel a lot tighter when all reassembled.

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Well, what a day. Using my friends 18mm impact socket and longer bar, got the subframe bolts undone. But if I’m honest this was really just the tip of the iceberg for todays exploits. Once again today I’m feeling absolutely rubbish with this virus, so energy levels really down today after yesterdays dismantling. Having undone the passenger side subframe bolts, and removed the drivers side entirely, plus take the shock bolt out, the subframe could lower down, although I had to lever it down some more, and wedge some wooden blocks in there to keep it down enough to get on the wishbone bolt. Bolt removed, the wishbone fell out no problem. The big issue now would be removing the handbrake cable from the lever. What an absolutely horrendous piece of design engineering from Audi. Why make the cable come out backwards from the arm and not forwards? So by rights you are supposed to remove the exhaust system and propshaft to install new handbrake cables. Ermmm…yeah right, not happening. So I opted to remove the heat shield and try my luck. Glad it wasn’t rusted it, quick tap with a drift from inside the car (after figuring out the cable holder and releasing), and the it popped straight out.
So rebuilding is a reversal of removal as they say……….not quite. The Powerflex bushes made getting all the wishbone mounts home a pain in the rear. Once in though I’ve renewed all the bolts. Getting the driveshaft installed was actually quite easy and not the pain I expected.
I managed to get the wishbone and track arm on, droplink back on, ABS sensor installed, stone burst, brake disc an caliper all back on. I just didn’t have the time, daylight or energy today to get the caliper bled, handbrake set, or the interior put back together. I’ll try again tomorrow evening weather permitting, to get all these jobs done.
So with all this done, I’m really hoping that the ABS fault will be gone, and maybe a more quieter but responsive rear end. We shall see. But………..still need to find time to do the other side.


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Hope you get better soon. But looking good, you’re getting there bit by bit.
 
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Got the brakes bled, and handbrake adjusted up this evening. So it’s back down on its wheels now. Just need to put the interior back together tomorrow evening, and reset the fault codes. Really hoping fingers crossed that no more ABS fault lights.
 
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Well…….got everything back together, so quick test drive, and thank god, the ABS light is now off. I was dubious as I had to relocate the mounting bolt for the sensor. But all is good.
Does feel a little bit more solid, and I’m not 100% sure, but there seems to be less of a bang when changing gear Etc. Might be my imagination though. Tracking is definatly out, which was to be expected. I was careful to install the bolts where I removed them, but we now have much more solid bushes, so yeah……it’s out. Really need to get the other side done asap, and then a 4 wheel alignment. Anybody know somebody for decent 4 wheel alignment Manchester area?

Now for the MOT.
 
Well, it’s been a while since I last posted. Not really done a lot over the winter. In all fairness I’ve been pretty ill all over winter through Christmas. Reading 2 posts up and seeing I was ill when I did the drivers side rear axle made me realise how far back my illness went. Think I had COVID at one point, lost all taste and smell, changed medication and lost 3 stone, so been a rough couple of months.
But……..I’m back on it. So since the nice weather arrived I thought I’d make the most of it, and do the near side rear axle. Always easier when youve done one side previously. No dropping the subframe this time round, but the rear box was in the way at one point to get a bolt out.
All done now though, I was dismayed to see how much corrosion had already been done to my turrets and lower arm on the other side. So annoying, but what happens when your pride and joy is also your daily I suppose.
I also fitted a new centre console that doesn’t drop and the lid isn’t broken, whilst it was all out anyway.

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I now have multiple parts of the rear axle to sell to anybody who is doing the same thing as I have done, so I’ll list those in the classifieds section.

Next job, which will be next week, is to fit the rebuilt prop shaft, and Jetex exhaust. Looking forward to that.
Its just a shame that over winter, the Airbag light came on, which was weird really, it’s when it went extremely cold, and I came out and it wouldn’t even unlock, battery wasn’t flat, but everything was frozen. It’s been on permanently ever since. I’ve code read it, and it’s the airbag control module, behind the radio and air con controls, excellent. So I’ll be taking the dash apart in a week or 2 to discover what part number is on it. And I believe this will then need coding in as well.
Im thinking the ICM is maybe the culprit for the hot start issue, after speaking to various mechanics. So I might try and find one of these to prove or disprove that theory. I’d do an ICM delete but not sure on that yet.
Anyway, back up and running, need to do some serious polishing and getting it ready for summer.


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And so finally yesterday, the time came to fit the refurbished prop shaft. And also the Jetex system I’ve had for a year and a half. Assembly went ok, once the car was up in the air by about 3 feet.
Getting the prop shaft to fit into the cups on the diff and the gearbox was a challenge, interference fit and getting the bolts started was a pain. I notice the prop shaft design of the one I refurbished, and the one on the car was different too. Which is odd since they came from the same year of TQS.
The exhaust was always going to be a challenge when being done without a ramp. Access to the downpipe bolts Is severely limited, but once the Techtonics downpipe was installed I was really impressed with the fit and finish. However……..as the downpipe came prepared to install to a 3” system, and the Jetex came prepared to reduce down to a standard downpipe, some modification was required. So the middle section was cut, and a 3” dual clamp sleeve installed to mate the 2.
Schoolboy error……once assembled, we realised the exhaust paste we thought we had, was rock hard. Doh! So it’s assembled at the minute with no paste. So I’ll take the car this week to a garage I know, for 4 wheel alignment, and I’ll ask them to fettle the system so it’s not hitting anything (which it is at the minute), and also to reinstall the joints with paste.

And the result………..the knocking noise still exists. So if I’m honest, it’s definatly the diff. Too much play in the diff. So I think, I’ll look to get the spare diff Ive got in the garage reconditioned.

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Had one of my customers do a 4-wheel alignment today. Sooooo much better, feels so much more planted now. Was feeling a bit twitchy before.
I also had the, fettle the Jetex system. And this is now a lot better, not blowing anymore, sounds a lot better. It is however extremely close to the chassis in various places. I’m told it could do with the brackets bending to move it away. It’s missing at the minute, so I’ll leave it as is, but might have to revisit that.
Just need to wait for my ICM delete kit to arrive, and that this months additions taken care of.

Token whoring pictures.


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Week down the line now. I think I’m seeing now why I moved away from modifying cars years ago, lol. I’ve fitted the Jetex, and it was extremely close to the chassis in various areas. So….got the car to a customers garage I know, and up on a ramp. They took the sections off, got exhaust paste on the joints, and then fiddled around with them. And although it was a little better initially, it still catches. So frustrating. Having the time myself to Jack it up high enough and fiddle around is hard. But I’ll try to do it in the coming weekends this month. The hangers don’t have the locators on them, so it just slides along the bars. Think it’s catching on the diff mountings in fairness.
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Also had the car 4 wheel aligned now the rear suspension is all fitted. Feels a hell of a lot better now, more planted, handles much better.
But…….the prop shaft I’ve fitted, is vibrating, frustrating really. I got all the pieces back in their correct positions, it’s only cv’s and a knuckle replaced. I’m feeling it may not be square in the cups either on the diff or gearbox, again need to get it up high enough to check.

Made an odd discovery the other day too. I jacked the rear up just to check the exhaust before I did a 600 mile trip. I spun the drivers side rear wheel just to check on the driveshafts, and the opposite side did not spin the opposite direction. Didn’t even move. I’m pretty sure that’s not right. Anybody else any input on this?

Anyway, at least it looks better from the rear now.
 
Bit of work being done today. As I had an indiscretion with a high kerb in a car park and nearly pulled the bumper off, subsequently the plastic hangers on the inner wings no longer fit correctly. Turns out the expanding nuts that hold these on are just rubbish, so much so there is now a new design. So I’m renewing all these expanding nuts together with the bolts which hold them. Hopefully when these are all reinstalled the bumper will sit nice and flush with the wings as it should.

At this point I’m Also fitting the lower bumper spoiler I’ve acquired. Believe it’s a Votex lookalike spoiler, which it says on it is an MS Designs spoiler. Was pretty beaten up when I got it, scratches Etc. So I’ve rubber it down, plastic premiered it, rubbed down some more, then finished it off. i then sprayed it with Matt black, as I want it to blend in really and not look too ungainly on the front end.

Im also trying to change the front ABS sensors currently. OMG, what a job. I knew it would be horrendous, and it’s not surprising me. I’ve left it currently, albeit absolutely soaked in some spray for removing corrosion Etc. I’m really really hoping I can work it loose, as I don’t relish the alternative. The brake wear indicators are now permanently shafted, or I wouldn’t have bother changing this.

See how I get on tomorrow, after I’ve researched it a bit more. We shall see.

On a side note, also discovered why my car always smells hot when I get to the end of my journey. My 2 year old radiator is now leaking as it heavily corroded. Superb.

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Love a bit of sunshine whilst my least favourite sport is on TV. Gives me a chance to get things done.
Managed to get the spoiler fitted to the bumper yesterday, and today and reinforced the ends to the main splitter. Thr dirt shields attached to the hangers were also in a poor state, so I superglued them back together and then used Q-Bond to reinforce the joins. Kind of looks a bit of a mess unfortunately once bonded back together, so I shot the whole lot with Matt Black. Looked a damn site better. Once the new expanding nuts were installed, the hangers went straight onto the inner wings no problem. Hanging the bumper back on was nice and easy, and once the ends of the bumper were tapped home onto the hangers, I was amazed at how the bumper now fits to the wings. no that’s one of the best fitting B5 bumpers I’ve seen. Well impressed.

I also got around to working with the ABS sensors as well. The trick I found to getting these out, is use my MapGas gun with its more localised torch, just on the upright casting. Then hitting the sensor body with a freeze spray. This then allowed me to get pipe grips round the sensor body and wiggle it free. Quite easy when you know how. With the new sensors fitted, my wear indicator plugs no longer need cable ties to keep them on, and I have no more warning lights on the dashboard.

Im quite happy with the spoiler, it’s subtle, and you can barely notice it, which is exactly how I wanted it.

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Amazing what a proper leather clean does for your interior. Got a specialist leather treatment pack a while back, one I’ve used before. So full clean first with a leather safe brush. Then when it’s dried, a full treatment with conditioner. I was thinking the drivers seat might require dying, but it was good to go after cleaning. Really impressed with how the Recaro look now.

I’ll be getting the car up on a 2-post this week too, see if we can fathom which part is causing the drivetrain vibration. And maybe even adjust the exhaust to get it fitting correctly.


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Oh how 24 hours can bring change. I received my loom conversion kit for my R8 coil conversion today, so thought I’d get busy installing that. But had to take my wife to the emergency out of hours doctor, (bitten by an insect badly). And lo and behold, the brakes started to feel really odd.
Long story short, I get home, thinking it might be (and hoping) a vacuum hose leak. But there’s no fluid in the reservoir. Underneath the ABS Pump, there’s all fluid………..fantastic. Tremendous news.

Anybody else known these pumps fail through leaking? I thought the electronics failed really, but not leaks on the pump/motor.

Anyway. Need to try and find a pump to match 8E0 614 111 A from this point. Good luck to me!!

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