Help with a Fault Code

Markjb

Registered User
As title, I'm looking for a little help with a fault.

My EML cam eon yesterday and the fault I've got is below (scanned using VCDS 16.8.4). A quick Google has come up with replacing the coolant pump, if so, does anyone know the part no?

Also, how soon do I need to get it looked at / done?

Thanks in advance

Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CAG.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 022 FG HW: 03L 906 022 FG
Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l TDI H14 9978
Software Coding: 010D002C18072118
Work Shop Code: WSC 35532 001 1048576
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI03L906022FG A01010 (AU56)
ROD: EV_ECM20TDI03L906019L.rod
VCID: 6FEC57AAB691753A20-803B
1 Fault Found:

4875 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A 00 [172] - Open circuit
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 99
Mileage: 112960 km
Date: 2016.12.04
Time: 08:23:57

Engine speed: 1453.50 /min
Normed load value: 55.3 %
Vehicle speed: 49 km/h
Coolant temperature: 39 °C
Intake air temperature: 2 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1020 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.200 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Crankshaft speed (RPM): 1453.5 /min
Vehicle speed: 49.68 km/h
Vehicle voltage terminal 30: 13200 mV
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler pump: specified value: 95.00 %
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 0: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 16: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 24: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 8: 7
EGR Clg st Mon-Bit 0: 0
Coolant temperature at radiator outlet: actual value: -273.1 °C
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
Known by a range of names “secondary”, “additional”, “auxiliary” or “electric” waterpump. I’ve either been told directly, or read, that it does one of three possible jobs:-

1) Cools the EGR system when it gets hot. (this forum) :smile new:

2) Heats the inlet manifold/EGR system to help get it up to operating temperature and thus more fuel/emissions efficient. (Proprietor at my local German Car Specialist garage) :smile new:

3) “To prevent oil deposits from burning onto the turbine shaft in the turbocharger, an auxiliary water pump runs-on for up to 15 minutes after the engine has been switched off. It transports the cooler coolant against the direction of normal flow. As it does this, coolant drawn in from the auxiliary pump flows from the radiator via the turbocharger in the engine block and back to the radiator to break down the residual heat.” (VW technician Training Programme booklet 2.0 FSI engine).:readit:

If anybody knows for sure in respect of the TDI engines, please let me know. :blink:

Not sure what exact pump you need but this ebay link will give you some idea of what it is like and how much it costs. Not a big job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161965383393?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

Markjb

Registered User
Guys, need more help please.

Have had the pump replaced but have the same error come up today. Where should I be looking next?

Error code today:


Wednesday,14,December,2016,20:08:38:03193
VCDS Version: Release 16.8.4 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03L-906-022-CAG.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 022 FG HW: 03L 906 022 FG
Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l TDI H14 9978
Software Coding: 010D002C18072118
Work Shop Code: WSC 35532 001 1048576
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TDI03L906022FG A01010 (AU56)
ROD: EV_ECM20TDI03L906019L.rod
VCID: 6FEC57AAB691753A20-803A
1 Fault Found:
4875 - Coolant Pump 2
P261A 00 [039] - Open circuit
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 113806 km
Date: 2016.12.14
Time: 20:06:42
Engine speed: 895.00 /min
Normed load value: 30.2 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 56 °C
Intake air temperature: 27 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.140 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Crankshaft speed (RPM): 895.0 /min
Vehicle speed: 0.00 km/h
Vehicle voltage terminal 30: 14140 mV
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler pump: specified value: 79.19 %
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 0: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 16: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 24: 0
EGR Clg st Ctl Val Bits mp-Bit 8: 7
EGR Clg st Mon-Bit 0: 0
Coolant temperature at radiator outlet: actual value: -273.1 °C

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
I had a similar fault pop up a year or so back after I had parked the car, where it stayed for about 3 weeks during a period of heavy rain, whilst I was away. I had the yellow emissions system warning light pop up whilst driving but the car continued to drive nicely and did not go into limp mode. The light would come and go over a period of a couple of days. My local German specialist garage gave me the explanation (2) above, said it was nothing to worry about and suggested deleting to see if it reoccurred.

I had a long trip planned from Somerset to Sheffield & back and as it was EGR related I took a punt and filled up with premium diesel and stuck in a bottle of Forte diesel cleaner I had in the garage. The car ran faultlessly over some 400 miles during which at one point it recorded 69 MPG. The fault has never returned and I have continued using premium diesel which the car seems to like. I have also been told that an EGR can be cleaned my the occasional hot motorway run (say 30 mins) where you do not change up through the gears and say keep revs at about 3000. A combination of a cleaner fuel burn and greater heat will help clean the EGR area where sticky carbon deposits build up and do not burn off because of lack of heat with short journeys etc. The correct oil is also essential (504/507) as the vapours produced from these limit the sticky deposits that can collect in the EGR and DPF.

Whether there is some sort of synchronised, electronic communication between the EGR valve and this secondary water pump, I have not yet established.
 

Simon968

Registered User
"Coolant temperature at radiator outlet: actual value: -273.1 °C"

That can't be right surely!
Either something is unplugged or there is a broken wire somewhere.
 
Last edited:

desertstorm

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
VCDS Map User
-273.1 is absolute zero so pretty chilly. I don't think that is related to your problem but you never know. Was the pump replaced with a new part ?.
If so looks to be some kind of wiring or possibly relay /fuse issue. If I remember tomorrow I will have a look at the wiring diagram.
That ECU looks to have been used 2009-2010 on the CAHA 2.0 TDI engine.
 

Markjb

Registered User
Thanks for the replies.

Yes, replaced with a new pump by a local indy.

I recently had an issue with the AC control panel too and went away, so wonder if this is a relay problem - any further help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

Markjb

Registered User
This is the fault code I had for the AC issue I had and so wonder if it's linked? This error hasn't appeared again though so could be completely separate.

Could of course be completely unrelated.

Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 4F0-910-043.clb
Part No SW: 4F0 910 043 B HW: 4F2 820 043 AA
Component: KLIMABETAETIGUNGH30 0080
Revision: 00000077 Serial number: 00000030631352
Coding: 0001300
Shop #: WSC 02325 785 00200
VCID: 1D72697D9B35A76380-8049

1 Fault Found:
02071 - Local Databus
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 99
Mileage: 111407 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2016.11.16
Time: 19:50:56
 

desertstorm

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
VCDS Map User
Hi Mark,
wiring for the EGR coolant pump
upload_2016-12-15_19-43-42.png


A control wire connected back directly to the ECU on pin 3 of the pump. Pin 1 of the pump should be 0V ground. The pump supply is via a 15A fuse in fuse box SA1. This is located in the electronics box passenger side in the plenum area.
On Elsa Win is doesn't show SA1 as the correct fuse for a right hand drive car but it does on the LHD so I am assumimg that is a mistake bearing in mind the diagram says SA1.

upload_2016-12-15_19-52-0.png


upload_2016-12-15_19-55-19.png


I would check the fuse and make sure it's good and hasn't got a corroded/ poor connection.
Also check the earth continuity on the motor plug if you can get to it.
 

Markjb

Registered User
Really useful DS - thanks.

Will take a look at the weekend. I've stopped driving the car because it is now running like a dog and it stinks.

If it was fuse problem, would I also be seeing some sort of brake issues / warnings too with the same fuse used for the brake servo relay?

Thanks

Mark
 

Markjb

Registered User
Failed abysmally as couldn't get the plenum cover off so is booked back I to the local Indy on Tuesday.

Will keep you posted.
 

Markjb

Registered User
Thanks for the help everyone, especially DS as the wiring diagram helped diagnose a problem with terminal and wire feeding the earth terminal.

Repaired free of charge as it should have been spotted at the time of changing the pump :)

Thanks again

M
 
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