Help Plz

jaybee11

Registered User
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
NULL
hi i was driving my car today and all of a sudden i lose power :S plugged it in and get codes 01262 and 16486 never had problems with car before had a remape a month ago any ideas please
 
16486/P0102/000258 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low


01262 - Ross-Tech Wiki
01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75): Short to Ground

Sounds like either a wiring issue or both the MAF and the N75 have bit the farm..

Both of these will cause loss of power

<tuffty/>
 
any idea on cost and where i could get them cheap or is there anythink i can do to try fix these
 
thinking probably won't fix it...

Try cleaning your MAF first with isopropanol, it helped mine.

do i just take it off and spray with that, and can u buy that from halfords or anywhere
 
any idea on cost and where i could get them cheap or is there anythink i can do to try fix these

Difficult one... the N75 fault needs testing... test the N75 for resistance ... if it registers as a short (no ohms not open circuit) then the N75 is faulty and needs to be replaced, typically a dealer part and around £50... if not then you have a wiring problem elsewhere so will need to trace this back... if thats the case I suspect it will be due to worn wiring loom rubbing on something causing the N75 wiring to short to earth... this could have also taken out the MAF...

Clear the faults and try unplugging the N75 and go for a drive.. you will still have no power and you will get a fualt code suggesting the N75 is open circuit or disconnected... see if the MAF fault returns... it is possible that the fualts are mutual due to a seperate wiring fualt so yo will need to eliminate the wiring first else you could just plug in a new MAF and N75 only for them to go pop too...

The MAF fault on its own is a typical tired MAF issue... this is normally a case of just replacing it... the price varies on this depending on your car/year/engine code... expect to pay from £70 to £150+... only buy a Bosch MAF which can be bought from GSF, Euro Car PArts or a dealer

<tuffty/>
 
do i just take it off and spray with that, and can u buy that from halfords or anywhere

Maplin sell it, used for cleaning electrical components. Undo the security torx bolts (i think earlier cars are screws) with the correct tool and pull it out, look inside and you'll see the thin metal element, give it a good spray and leave it to dry. Don't touch the element with anything apart from the isopropanol or you risk damaging it. Try it as it'll cost very little to do and only take 10 minutes.

If thats doesn't help the MAF then as Tufty says, you'll need a new one and they are minimum £70 normally.
 
Difficult one... the N75 fault needs testing... test the N75 for resistance ... if it registers as a short (no ohms not open circuit) then the N75 is faulty and needs to be replaced, typically a dealer part and around £50... if not then you have a wiring problem elsewhere so will need to trace this back... if thats the case I suspect it will be due to worn wiring loom rubbing on something causing the N75 wiring to short to earth... this could have also taken out the MAF...

Clear the faults and try unplugging the N75 and go for a drive.. you will still have no power and you will get a fualt code suggesting the N75 is open circuit or disconnected... see if the MAF fault returns... it is possible that the fualts are mutual due to a seperate wiring fualt so yo will need to eliminate the wiring first else you could just plug in a new MAF and N75 only for them to go pop too...

The MAF fault on its own is a typical tired MAF issue... this is normally a case of just replacing it... the price varies on this depending on your car/year/engine code... expect to pay from £70 to £150+... only buy a Bosch MAF which can be bought from GSF, Euro Car PArts or a dealer

<tuffty/>

thanks mate
 
i have a baileys dump valve fitted and could that be cause or the remappe
 
i have a baileys dump valve fitted and could that be cause or the remappe

Doubt it... MAF's go all the time... I have had 4 in a year before now... current one has been in over 12months... its how they roll...

N75 fault is either tired wiring or a faulty N75... again, it happens...

Remaps (depending on what you have and where you went) have been know to cause 'issues' but its subjective at best..

The parts causing the faults in this case are common issues... in this case you need to investigate the N75 fault to eliminate it as a wiring issue as that can escalate quickly especially after spending over £100 on parts only to have them blow the minute you start the car again..

<tuffty/>
 
Doubt it... MAF's go all the time... I have had 4 in a year before now... current one has been in over 12months... its how they roll...

N75 fault is either tired wiring or a faulty N75... again, it happens...

Remaps (depending on what you have and where you went) have been know to cause 'issues' but its subjective at best..

The parts causing the faults in this case are common issues... in this case you need to investigate the N75 fault to eliminate it as a wiring issue as that can escalate quickly especially after spending over £100 on parts only to have them blow the minute you start the car again..

<tuffty/>

where is the n75 valve my car is a 1.8 1999 turbo sport
 
I would check the wiring first, then get a fellow member/friend to swap the parts on a similiar car before buying new, also have you tried clearing the codes and rechecking?, it might eliminate one of them..
 
I would check the wiring first, then get a fellow member/friend to swap the parts on a similiar car before buying new, also have you tried clearing the codes and rechecking?, it might eliminate one of them..

it had 4 codes lol then down to 2 of them im not that good with wires and fixing cars lol
 

The first problem i see is that your MAF/airfilter is flopping about and can cause iregular Maf readings and also ****** it,
If you take the engine cover off you will see a valve with 3 pipes going into it (one goes to the turbo actuator) and an electrical connector, thats your N75 valve
 
The first problem i see is that your MAF/airfilter is flopping about and can cause iregular Maf readings and also ****** it,
If you take the engine cover off you will see a valve with 3 pipes going into it (one goes to the turbo actuator) and an electrical connector, thats your N75 valve

how are they normally holded up and thanks alot for help will try this tomorrow
 

Similar threads