anythink i can do to try fix these
thinking probably won't fix it...
Try cleaning your MAF first with isopropanol, it helped mine.
any idea on cost and where i could get them cheap or is there anythink i can do to try fix these
do i just take it off and spray with that, and can u buy that from halfords or anywhere
Difficult one... the N75 fault needs testing... test the N75 for resistance ... if it registers as a short (no ohms not open circuit) then the N75 is faulty and needs to be replaced, typically a dealer part and around £50... if not then you have a wiring problem elsewhere so will need to trace this back... if thats the case I suspect it will be due to worn wiring loom rubbing on something causing the N75 wiring to short to earth... this could have also taken out the MAF...
Clear the faults and try unplugging the N75 and go for a drive.. you will still have no power and you will get a fualt code suggesting the N75 is open circuit or disconnected... see if the MAF fault returns... it is possible that the fualts are mutual due to a seperate wiring fualt so yo will need to eliminate the wiring first else you could just plug in a new MAF and N75 only for them to go pop too...
The MAF fault on its own is a typical tired MAF issue... this is normally a case of just replacing it... the price varies on this depending on your car/year/engine code... expect to pay from £70 to £150+... only buy a Bosch MAF which can be bought from GSF, Euro Car PArts or a dealer
<tuffty/>
i have a baileys dump valve fitted and could that be cause or the remappe
Doubt it... MAF's go all the time... I have had 4 in a year before now... current one has been in over 12months... its how they roll...
N75 fault is either tired wiring or a faulty N75... again, it happens...
Remaps (depending on what you have and where you went) have been know to cause 'issues' but its subjective at best..
The parts causing the faults in this case are common issues... in this case you need to investigate the N75 fault to eliminate it as a wiring issue as that can escalate quickly especially after spending over £100 on parts only to have them blow the minute you start the car again..
<tuffty/>
I would check the wiring first, then get a fellow member/friend to swap the parts on a similiar car before buying new, also have you tried clearing the codes and rechecking?, it might eliminate one of them..
The first problem i see is that your MAF/airfilter is flopping about and can cause iregular Maf readings and also ****** it,
If you take the engine cover off you will see a valve with 3 pipes going into it (one goes to the turbo actuator) and an electrical connector, thats your N75 valve
how are they normally holded up and thanks alot for help will try this tomorrow
They are held in place by the airbox, a heatshield will do it if you want to run the cone filter though.