Help - 1.9/2.0TDI Recommendations

Rideen

Registered User
AS far as I know there was 2 types of 6 speed gearboxes (manual ones) 1 was with highway 6th speed that dropped your rpm, the 2nd one is shorter on 6th gear.In fact my BKD on 70mph 6th gear got 2200rpm.

Seems we have different gearboxes then as you stated because my BKD stays at 2000rpm on 70mph. Do you know of any differences between these, the gear ratios, etc.? Seems that mine isn't that reliable as I already had to hack-fix it because it went bad (would get stuck in 1st and R and jumps around when I turn the car off).

EDIT: Just found this on another forum, all of these are for BKD engine:

GNE/HDU/JMA all use a 70/19/24 (3.68) diff but listing 2 different part numbers

GRF uses a 69/20/25 (3.45) diff
 

Marek196c

Gilera Runner / A3 Sportback
Mine is HDU and dunno ratios (can't confirm them), but as said doing 2200rpm at 70mph.
 
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Cornish John

Guest
Spotted a 2011 2.0TDI with 170HP, this is the common rail engine but has 100,000 miles, what are peoples opinions on this engine?

Thanks

I have a 2010 model 2.0tdi cr 170bhp CBBB engine just hit 226,000 miles with no problems at all!
Plus I really mean that, same turbo, clutch, DPF & EGR valve. Also had a REVO remap took it to 210bhp not to take the ****.
When I remapped it, all those years ago, never bothered either with a DPF or EGR delete, its been fine.

Its driven like a diesel should be, at speed over long journey's.
At 100mph returns 42mpg and just sits under 3000rpm.

Look after it, it will look after you, I change the oil every 5000 to 8000 miles, don't do the Audi 10000 miles or 20000 miles.
Cost me four sensors, which I changed myself and one flap runner motor which cost £250.
Just the normal running costs, brakes, tyres, cv joints etc.

Best bit, picked it up at auctions at 2 years old, under half the show room/dealer prices!

(oh, changed the grill a few months ago after the original was damaged by someone in a car park! It was bought used off this site)
 

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aqibi2000

Registered User
Cornish John you're the first person I've heard of that's actually heading towards their second timing belt on a CR cbbb
 
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Cornish John

Guest
Cornish John you're the first person I've heard of that's actually heading towards their second timing belt on a CR cbbb

I should have said, again I don't believe in leaving it up to 130K that Audi recommend, just asking for trouble in my book!!
So, just done it for the third time, I do it every 70K.

All done again at 210K, including tensioners and water pump.

I'm thinking of replacing it at the end of the summer with a 8V 2015 plate, nothing wrong with the car, but have to move on at some sage.
 
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Cornish John

Guest
Well up to my Dads in Somerset and back today, 227.500 miles now.
I may treat it to an oil change tomorrow!!

Oh, I did buy it a used flat bottom steering wheel from this site yesterday, should arrive Monday.
Bit of fun.
 

scottgbr595

Registered User
I'm hearing that even the CR engines still have the oil pump hex problem, how common is this and is it something to actually worry about if the car has been fully serviced etc?

It's the only thing thats bugging me with the high mileage cars now.
 
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Cornish John

Guest
Never had a problem with mine, its original and running fine, @ 227,500 miles.

Like I say, I have always changed the oil every 5000 to 8000 miles.
If you only do one thing with your car, change your oil!!

People will spend £1000s on bling, but leave oil or delay a service for miles.
Your car may look fab, but if the engine is tits, well your pushing it!!

IMHO, just cant see why anyone would leave oil in ANY car for 20,000 miles, don't care what Audi/VW say!
For the cost, its a no brainer IMHO.

These are the same people that will say, the emissions fix has no effects on your car, how many had EGR problems afterwards!!

(I would not entertain a car with high miles, that's only had a service every 20,000 miles, for me that's just not enough! I'm selling mine in November, nothing wrong with the car, I leave my current job after 32 years, so I will not be travelling as far. Nice little A3 8V 1.4 replacement I think!)
 
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Marek196c

Gilera Runner / A3 Sportback
I'm hearing that even the CR engines still have the oil pump hex problem, how common is this and is it something to actually worry about if the car has been fully serviced etc?

It's the only thing that bugging me with the high mileage cars now.
Yes is known problem, the pump is more balanced but the hex "shaft" is too short so with time it's rounding, in worst case you won't get oil in engine and rebuild welcome, the pumps are expensive as well, only thing is when you buy it, take it to mechanic (or on your own) and replace the "shaft" with 3mm (if I'm right) longer. And get peace of mind afterwards, anyway it depend also of pump because as far as I know they revisited the pumps, and you can check on any car if it got recalls to do by calling Audi or dvla on-line. The problem is not relative to servicing, just bad engineering (like heads in bkd).
 

Gazwould

Registered User
77mm hex drive key has just 15mm contact length .

Oem 100mm key has 35mm contact length .

Aftermarket 100mm kit , 38-40mm .
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
The oil pumps were upgraded from 2010 - as far as I know they have remained the same ever since
 
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Cornish John

Guest
Reason I'm asking is I'm thinking of viewing this,
https://tinyurl.com/y8cq4pkw

Seems decent with a full service history.

Looks near the same as mine, wont tell you what I paid at auctions when I bought it at 2 years old!

CO2 looks different to my 170bhp model, is it defo CR & not PD engine?

John.

(oh, for that mileage, its just run in!!)
 

millsy4002

Registered User
Pretty sure I got the last run of PD170's on my 07 plate, so above should be CR


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Cornish John

Guest
Pretty sure I got the last run of PD170's on my 07 plate, so above should be CR


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OK, what caught my eye, is; mine is 139 CO2 and that one is listed as 151 CO2.

Mine had 40000 on the clock when I bought it at two years old from the auctions for just a little more what they are asking for that 08 plate now!
I think it was an end of the day bargain.

Don't want to temp fate, just hit 228000 today, its been fun!!
 

oldoiler

Registered User
Ok will ask when I view if this was done. I have a choice between 2011 with 100,000 miles or 2009 with 70,000 miles, any advice?

Mileage is NOT relevant, service history IS we run two A6 barges one has 150k and the other has 225k both 2.0crs and still give over 48 mpg


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Cornish John

Guest
Mileage is NOT relevant, service history IS we run two A6 barges one has 150k and the other has 225k both 2.0crs and still give over 48 mpg


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Exactly why I change the oil every 5000 to 8000 miles.

My car before this, was an A4 with the 1.9tdi PD engine, 300,000 miles when I sold it, still running fine.
 

scottgbr595

Registered User
Looks near the same as mine, wont tell you what I paid at auctions when I bought it at 2 years old!

CO2 looks different to my 170bhp model, is it defo CR & not PD engine?

John.

(oh, for that mileage, its just run in!!)

Yeah mate, checked the VIN on Audis website, common rail. Plus I got the guy to send a pic of the engine bay, it has the iconic diagonal line engine cover.

I'm defo gonna start changing the oil regularly when I get one, that seems to have been the key to your long miles.
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
The common rail version is very smooth revving and quiet. You can only really tell it is a diesel (sound wise) at tick-over. I never leave my engine oil in for more than 1-year (around 7,000 miles per year these days). Diesel engine oil gets quickly, very dark and contaminated - years ago the engine oil change regime for diesels used to be more frequent than for petrol engines. I'm sure that running with cleaner engine oil contributes towards keeping the EGR and Turbo in good order.
 
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Cornish John

Guest
The common rail version is very smooth revving and quiet. You can only really tell it is a diesel (sound wise) at tick-over. I never leave my engine oil in for more than 1-year (around 7,000 miles per year these days). Diesel engine oil gets quickly, very dark and contaminated - years ago the engine oil change regime for diesels used to be more frequent than for petrol engines. I'm sure that running with cleaner engine oil contributes towards keeping the EGR and Turbo in good order.
I fully agree
 

oldoiler

Registered User
Mileage is NOT relevant, service history IS we run two A6 barges one has 150k and the other has 225k both 2.0crs and still give over 48 mpg
Also we drive them like petrol cars and have not had any DMF issues either (think letting the diesel labour causes the DMF issue)


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oldoiler

Registered User
Used to get bore wear opposite the PD injectors at high miles, don't know if this is still the same with the CR engine?


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Lee.S

Registered User
I am looking at changing to diesel from my s3 Quattro but not sure what to go for. I have been looking at golf mk5 gt tdi, seat leon tdi, skoda Octavia vrs and now fancy trying an audi as I do love my Quattro just thirsty and need something easier on wallet.
From what I read on here better with 2.0tdi 2007 onwards I have a small budget, anyone recommendations?
thanks.
 

Marek196c

Gilera Runner / A3 Sportback
only 2.0tdi in diesel on a3s eventually a4 or a5 or a6 that can go bigger
 

oldoiler

Registered User
I came from 3.0 tdi Quattro and ONLY sold it due to reduced miles etc. But a quick A4 3.0 Quattro would be ok, unless that's too big?


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Marek196c

Gilera Runner / A3 Sportback
my dad got a6 2.7 (non quattro automatic) if you interested (doing like 50+mpg), anyway if you pair it with auto transmission any of those will be fast but you will go only for stage 1 eventually as the auto trans don't hold too much tuning.
 

scottgbr595

Registered User
So I'm pretty sure I've finally spotted the one, it's a 2010 2.0TDI with 114,000 miles, I am going to view it tomorrow.

The dealer sent the history which shows that:

The clutch has been replaced twice
The gearbox has been taken off, sent off for repair and refitted for £1000!
The cambelt has been done along with the water pump at 90k.

What do you guys reckon to the history? It seems the previous owner (or lease company) was happy to pay for the costly repairs!
 
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Cornish John

Guest
So I'm pretty sure I've finally spotted the one, it's a 2010 2.0TDI with 114,000 miles, I am going to view it tomorrow.

The dealer sent the history which shows that:

The clutch has been replaced twice
The gearbox has been taken off, sent off for repair and refitted for £1000!
The cambelt has been done along with the water pump at 90k.

What do you guys reckon to the history? It seems the previous owner (or lease company) was happy to pay for the costly repairs!

Seems Okay if the price is right!

Clutch twice after only 114K!!
I've still not changed mine after 232K!!

Good Luck.
 

Dannymoto

Registered User
I'm hearing that even the CR engines still have the oil pump hex problem, how common is this and is it something to actually worry about if the car has been fully serviced etc?

It's the only thing thats bugging me with the high mileage cars now.
I have the MY10 (2009) Common Rail Diesel CBAB (140) and I've had the hex drive changed to the solid 77mm for the last two services. It still wears so I'm getting the later 100mm oil pump balance shaft fitted just to be on the safe side. I've done almost 30k miles in my car and only thing that's been wrong was the turbo actuator £120 and fitted myself. Just clocked over 120k miles now and still runs perfect been serviced every 10k miles. I would definitely check if the car has the 77mm hex drive and get it looked it when you get it serviced.
 

Dannymoto

Registered User
So I'm pretty sure I've finally spotted the one, it's a 2010 2.0TDI with 114,000 miles, I am going to view it tomorrow.

The dealer sent the history which shows that:

The clutch has been replaced twice
The gearbox has been taken off, sent off for repair and refitted for £1000!
The cambelt has been done along with the water pump at 90k.

What do you guys reckon to the history? It seems the previous owner (or lease company) was happy to pay for the costly repairs!
I'll be honest it shouldn't be having those things repaired at that mileage. It depends how you look at it. If you're happy to buy it knowing its got all the work done then go for it. Better than buying the car and you having to fork out!
 

Gazwould

Registered User
Just changing the 77mm hex key is never the answer as a new key is just 15mm inside an even more slack and worn balancer shaft keyway .

Coupled with the keyway isn't hexagonal the only possible answer is they designed it to fail .
 

Dannymoto

Registered User
Just changing the 77mm hex key is never the answer as a new key is just 15mm inside an even more slack and worn balancer shaft keyway .

Coupled with the keyway isn't hexagonal the only possible answer is they designed it to fail .

I am aware of this, you pop up every time I comment about this.

It hasn't failed in 120k miles, it's getting the later 100mm balance shaft done on my next service which is 700 miles. I'm sure that will out live the life of the car.

I do believe putting a new hex drive (solid) would help a lot more than not getting checked at all.




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Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
The 2 X clutch and gearbox fix is a bit unusual after 114,000 but if the price of the car is good and you've satisfied yourself about that transmission issue (and that it has now been 100% fixed) - I can't see a problem. The cam belt + water pump change at 90k is obviously also good, money-saving news. If the engine oil has been changed regularly, the engine should generally be fine at 114k.
 

Mario

Registered User
I do believe putting a new hex drive (solid) would help a lot more than not getting checked at all.

All it will do though is delay the inevitable...like you've experienced, eventually you are having to replace the shaft for a modified one as the changed hex key just isn't cutting it.
 
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