Heat wrap tape on Intake/Heatshield?

isimpoi

Newbie
So I've been looking into some gold heat wrap tape to reduce the heat coming off my turbo up through the heatshield and into the cold air intake. I was wondering if other's have done this on the forum? Also would it be alright to put the tape on the underside of the heatshield or better just putting it on the top side?
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S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
You mean like this.....





The source of all the heat is the turbo and exhaust manifold.
I certainly wouldn't place ReflectaGold or similar on the heat shield,and definitely not under it,as the film is not rated to much above 400C,and a red hot exhaust manifold may be significantly higher.

If you need something better,Zircoflex is the thing to use,and to heat wrap the exhaust as here....




Personally,I don't think you need this on a Stg2+ car,and I certainly didn't,but with a big turbo,it makes a lot of sense.

On mine,before we covered and protected all of the wiring etc,here's what the (shielded and wrapped) exhaust did to my MAF wiring...

 

isimpoi

Newbie
Yea exactly like that. It may not make a massive difference on the Stage2+ but I've noticed my heatshield to be extremely hot after a spirited drive and also the piping above to be close to untouchable due to heat and wanted to reduce this.
 

scotty dugg

Active Member
Silver Supporter
This is something I was considering doing, but I won't be going past Stage 1. My Revo Intake always seems extremely hot after a run. Would a heat sheild even have any benefit?

I saw a dual layered heat shield advertised that is claimed to be better than just the single sheet.
 

isimpoi

Newbie
I know what you mean.

If you want insulation under the shield use Zircotek as it won't burn. Lol
I may go for the Zircotek on one side and Gold tape on the top side and piping
 

isimpoi

Newbie
This is something I was considering doing, but I won't be going past Stage 1. My Revo Intake always seems extremely hot after a run. Would a heat sheild even have any benefit?

I saw a dual layered heat shield advertised that is claimed to be better than just the single sheet.
That's the R-tech one, it is claimed to be much better than the single sheets but my heatshield is integrated with my pipework so need to stick with standard. The benefit would be less heat getting into your cold air feed, the colder the air coming in the better
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
My Revo Intake always seems extremely hot after a run. Would a heat sheild even have any benefit?

Where did you get your Revo intake from? As both the standard CAI and their Race CAI (Camcoated which is what I went for) have a heat shield come with it.

For what is a relatively cheap mod as you can custom make your own heat shield if needs be, then it is definitely worth doing to help prevent heat soak.
 
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S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
One other thing....even with much of the system either shielded or wrapped,the intake temps on mine will rise to around 35C sitting in traffic,but as soon as airflow picks up again when the car moves,and especially with some boost,the temps drop to a few degrees above ambient.

Some things you can reduce,but direct radiated heat etc you may have to accept,and a big intercooler makes easy work of cold air once the car is moving.
 

isimpoi

Newbie
One other thing....even with much of the system either shielded or wrapped,the intake temps on mine will rise to around 35C sitting in traffic,but as soon as airflow picks up again when the car moves,and especially with some boost,the temps drop to a few degrees above ambient.

Some things you can reduce,but direct radiated heat etc you may have to accept,and a big intercooler makes easy work of cold air once the car is moving.
yea problem is sitting in the queue for quarter mile the temp rises that's why I was thinking of the heat shield/wrap etc to help reduce this, I know it will be an issue sitting still either way but least it's less of a problem. I've purchased charge and dis-charge pipes to help air and also making a custom cold air feed from the fog purely for 1/4 mile days. I work for a coating company who may ceramic coat my piping to assist me which is a boost

Next few mods on the list are:
diamond cut refurb (truck decided to cut corner and force me onto curb)
Cat-back exhaust
Intercooler
Runner flap delete / decoke of carbon from inlet
 

isimpoi

Newbie
Water/meth will make a much bigger difference for 1/4mile days and hard running.
I'm not 100% clued up on water meth kits, once installed do you not always have to run it? Since the other 90% of my driving is going to and from work or going into town so only time I'd get benefits would be the quarter mile and not sure I can justify spending £300+ on the kit only for it to be used maybe 5-10 times a year haha
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
If the car isn't specifically mapped for it ,you do not need to run it active all the time.

In any case,most kits are set up to activate at 0.5bar,and much of your running in town will be off boost or below 0.5bar.
 

isimpoi

Newbie
If the car isn't specifically mapped for it ,you do not need to run it active all the time.

In any case,most kits are set up to activate at 0.5bar,and much of your running in town will be off boost or below 0.5bar.
Ah okay, had a look into them and go be a viable option. I'd just need to run a, I guess an ignition / on/off switch for it so I can turn it off and on when needed rather than run it full time. Good idea for helping reduce the carbon too I'd imagine.

I could be wrong but I bought the forge boost tap and I vaguely remember something saying it has multiple taps and one could be used for water meth? Guessing this would be so the controller can pick up on what psi the car's at and when to throw in the wmi?
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
You can run them switched,but to be honest,you don't need to,and it's more useful to leave it permanently wired in,and boost activated.

The amount of water/meth mix used is usually quite low overall.

It will not reduce carbon buildup....I know from having the engine in bits a few times that it practically speaking makes no difference,as the flow rates are too low.

The Forge boost tap is perfect.
 

isimpoi

Newbie
You can run them switched,but to be honest,you don't need to,and it's more useful to leave it permanently wired in,and boost activated.

The amount of water/meth mix used is usually quite low overall.

It will not reduce carbon buildup....I know from having the engine in bits a few times that it practically speaking makes no difference,as the flow rates are too low.

The Forge boost tap is perfect.
Problem is will it run without the car being mapped for it? I'm currently running APR software which usually the smallest change I'm charged out the *** for haha. Tempted to switch to custom software as a reputable tuner has moved a lot closer to Scotland. That's ideal then about the boost tap, where is your Injection port input if you get what I mean haha? Like I see throttle body spacer kits so you can tap in there or have you just tapped into a pipe?
 

S3Alex

Rarely neutral
Gold Supporter
Problem is will it run without the car being mapped for it? I'm currently running APR software which usually the smallest change I'm charged out the *** for haha. Tempted to switch to custom software as a reputable tuner has moved a lot closer to Scotland. That's ideal then about the boost tap, where is your Injection port input if you get what I mean haha? Like I see throttle body spacer kits so you can tap in there or have you just tapped into a pipe?

Definitely it will work without specific mapping.

All that will happen is you will not see the benefits of pushing the timing when mapped for WMI.

You can use TB spacers such as made by USRT,which inject above the TB,but you will need a solenoid or check valve to prevent syphoning under vacuum at throttle closure.
The alternative which I use,is a BSH pipe,with an injection port beneath the TB.....the theoretical issue here is the TB butterfly being exposed to methanol,which is a potential issue,but hasn't been a problem on mine over around 40k miles.
 

isimpoi

Newbie
Ah okay doke, that's a relief then. May get it mapped at a later date as I'll be getting the runner flap delete and intercooler fitted along with WMI so may be worth while mapping it all in but via a custom map so I can run with and without the WMI kit. Think the same sort of method your using may be best for me
 
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