Hi guys can you help.
My brother broke down the other week he has a 2004 manual 2.0 tdi 8p. Lots of white smoke and the AA bloke diagnosed it as EGR valve.
It got home and i scanned it with VCDS and there were no codes. I drove it up the street and there was no power and it filled the street with white smoke. I and everyone i spoke to about it said turbo, but i didnt want to jump to conclusions and waste alot of money on a turbo if it wasnt.
A while back i changed the injector wiring harness and glowplugs and its been fine since, i did however read that the injectors can pack up after the problem was fixed so wasnt sure if it was that or not.
I took the turbo air intake off and put a borescope camera down to see to compressor wheel spinning. Started it up and revved it up and the compressor wheel wasnt turning so that confirmed it was turbo.
Took the turbo off to find the compressor wheel had broke off. I did a VW Caddy turbo at work and the same thing had happend the compressor wheel was in the exhaust!.
When we bought the car it had a slight coolant leak from the pipe from the egr cooler to the heater matrix, i put two new jubilee clips on either end and it was much better. Ive since ordered a new pipe and propper clips. This was the only coolant leak its had. However when i drained the oil out whilst doing the turbo a tiny bit of coolant came out the sump. Obviously this isnt good and made me think headgasket. Ive pressure tested the cooling system and it holds pressure. I put the sump plug back in with the pressure on then took it out again and the same small amout came out (talking 100ml)
Ive bit the bullet and started taking the head off, the number on the head starts with a C so from what ive read doesnt that mean it has the head that doesnt usually crack on?
What tools do i need to set the timing up before taking the cambelt off? Any tips on timing it up as i know there common for being slightly out?
How can i check the egr cooler is ok?
Any tips/tools to recommend getting the injectors out and is it worth having them tested while theyre out?
Obviously ill be doing cambelt and waterpump at the same time, are there any better makes for parts to use?
Are there any specialists out there to send the head to, im really concious about it being cracked. We send heads away at work all the time but i doubt in my mind if they crack tested properly. Like my mate said when they crack test them theyre cold, obviously a crack will open up during heat which they cant do.
If the head is cracked does anyone know anyone with a good one for a good price?
Sorry for the essay i want to get things right and do them properly.
Much appreciated in advance.
My brother broke down the other week he has a 2004 manual 2.0 tdi 8p. Lots of white smoke and the AA bloke diagnosed it as EGR valve.
It got home and i scanned it with VCDS and there were no codes. I drove it up the street and there was no power and it filled the street with white smoke. I and everyone i spoke to about it said turbo, but i didnt want to jump to conclusions and waste alot of money on a turbo if it wasnt.
A while back i changed the injector wiring harness and glowplugs and its been fine since, i did however read that the injectors can pack up after the problem was fixed so wasnt sure if it was that or not.
I took the turbo air intake off and put a borescope camera down to see to compressor wheel spinning. Started it up and revved it up and the compressor wheel wasnt turning so that confirmed it was turbo.
Took the turbo off to find the compressor wheel had broke off. I did a VW Caddy turbo at work and the same thing had happend the compressor wheel was in the exhaust!.
When we bought the car it had a slight coolant leak from the pipe from the egr cooler to the heater matrix, i put two new jubilee clips on either end and it was much better. Ive since ordered a new pipe and propper clips. This was the only coolant leak its had. However when i drained the oil out whilst doing the turbo a tiny bit of coolant came out the sump. Obviously this isnt good and made me think headgasket. Ive pressure tested the cooling system and it holds pressure. I put the sump plug back in with the pressure on then took it out again and the same small amout came out (talking 100ml)
Ive bit the bullet and started taking the head off, the number on the head starts with a C so from what ive read doesnt that mean it has the head that doesnt usually crack on?
What tools do i need to set the timing up before taking the cambelt off? Any tips on timing it up as i know there common for being slightly out?
How can i check the egr cooler is ok?
Any tips/tools to recommend getting the injectors out and is it worth having them tested while theyre out?
Obviously ill be doing cambelt and waterpump at the same time, are there any better makes for parts to use?
Are there any specialists out there to send the head to, im really concious about it being cracked. We send heads away at work all the time but i doubt in my mind if they crack tested properly. Like my mate said when they crack test them theyre cold, obviously a crack will open up during heat which they cant do.
If the head is cracked does anyone know anyone with a good one for a good price?
Sorry for the essay i want to get things right and do them properly.
Much appreciated in advance.
