Have i been screwed on my engine build? Opinions please

Y23MJJ

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Hello everyone

I’m after opinions and advice on the situation i have here...

I own a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T Special Ed Quattro with the BUL 220bhp lump and i had the dreaded low oil pressure and it done a good number on my engine. :pensive::pensive:

So i had it rebuilt at a cost of £2,000 by a “engine specialist“, well at least it started at £2k but i received a call a few days in stating that my crankshaft and two con rods needed replacing as they was scrap. The bill then jumped to £3,000 which was annoying but i paid it.

Upon collecting the car i was chatting to the bloke and I’m not sure if he let slip that it was a second hand crankshaft and rods or he meant to tell me i don't know. I thought to myself £1,000 seems a bit steep for second hand parts but then what do i know I’m not the specialist here.

So that was my first doubt in the service i had received... Fast forwards around 2 months i then had the oil light come up again and loss of power, so i immediately shut the engine off and called the engine builders.

I got the car recovered back to them waited 3 weeks for the problem to be rectified and it turns out it was a faulty chain tensioner?:smirk: What also made me chuckle was when i called for a progress update the chap in the office said it was being diagnosed and his first impressions are auxiliary belt tensioner :tearsofjoy:
Couldn’t believe my ears and as i said I’m no expert but even i know that was total bolloc** :triumph:

I also made them aware that it was shaking on idle after the initial start up and that was still present when i got the car back although my engine was running fine when driving and no lights showing anymore.

So if your still here then thank you and sorry to blab on but i really need other people's opinions here as i feel i may have had my pants pulled down. Yet again today i have had the Oil Pressure light come on!! Car still sounded fine and didn’t lose any power, i did shut it down pretty much straight away but didn't feel any loss of power just see the light and hit the key.

My question is yesterday i discovered that my PCV is faulty as i have excessive vacuum in the valve cover to the point where the oil cap is rather tough to lift out when engine running (only done it as a test from advice i read online) and have since seen a post relating to PCV possibly causing oil pressure light to come on temporarily as mine has done today.

I do have a Forge PCV delete kit ordered and will be trying it but i would really appreciate your opinions on everything i have mentioned above (a lot i know)

Really sorry to blab on but i could do with some advice :grimacing:

I won’t mention the company name as I’m not sure if i am just being paranoid or they have had me over so for now ill keep that to myself

Many thanks in advance and any and all input will be much appreciated
 
Sorry to hear your woes, but what's the question? 3k to replace an engine that could be bought and installed 2nd hand for less than a grand doesn't sound great, especially if you've had issues since.
 
Sorry to hear your woes, but what's the question? 3k to replace an engine that could be bought and installed 2nd hand for less than a grand doesn't sound great, especially if you've had issues since.

Sorry i should have pointed out there is two questions..

First being was i ripped off being charged the extra £1k just for a second hand crank and teo con rods

Second being could the PCV being faulty and having the excess vacum in the valve cover cause the oil pressure light? Oil levels ok and engine didn’t sound bad at all (this is since the rebuild)

Now in reply to the second hand engine fitted for a grand i would have jumped at the opportunity but couldn’t find one and was also told by these builders my oil pump would be modified to eliminate the failure again
 
I'd say if done properly with new bearings and piston rings then that's not a terrible price. If you think about the hours that go into it from a labour point of view.

Remember that this is engine out. If they've stripped it down and found a issue with the crank then they've had to source another. I'd hate to think how much a new one from Audi is. This may have had to be machined. Then the additional labour of stripping the bottom end theres a few £££ in consumables required. New bearings and bolts etc.

This is what people forget as they compare to the minority that can tackle this at home for a fraction of the cost.

Dropping another engine in is the easy route if you can find one but it's not always possible. Mines going in for a refresh the end of June and the price is more than you have paid but they are doing some special bits.

Doesn't sound great if it's not actually fixed though and that's the real issue here.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
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Mine was rebuilt a year and half ago with all new parts, the bill was £2500 ish i cant remember the exact price but it was around that, as for second hand parts if i was a “professional” engine builder id never put used parts in an engine rebuild it kind of defeats the object, ask for the receipts for the parts they have ordered to see if its all new and if not ask why, id be pi**ed if i paid that money and it wasn't new.
 
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