Mar 14, 2016
Nowhere wants to do mine. Anyone know of anyone that's had them done?
I'm not surprised lol! It's a massive job, cutting into the car and having to waterproof it etc...
Someone else asked a few months back but they soon decided against it after the amount of work involved and the cost.
Would you want them just for show or to actually use?
Just for show. They'd never get used. People keep suggesting to bond them on but I'm not to sure
Here we go. http://www.xenonz.co.uk/audi-a3--s3-8v-20131.html
Thanks mate! I already have a set of the rails, do you think if I cut the lugs off and just buy some 3M double sided foam tape instead it'd work? If not I'll just buy those
'Indistructable bond' we'll see lol
If I had a set of the origionals myself... i would have fired a few holes through the roof, coated the holes with paint to stop any rust and then bolted them on. Job done ☺
I changed a roof lining in this... Don't really fancy doing it to a brand new car
Anyone who tries this retrofit is a braver man than I.
I can't see the point of doing it for cosmetic reasons - what if the next owner loads them up LoL !!
if you're going to bond them, use CT1! this stuff sticks like s*** . I'm yet to find anything better tbh! just be aware, they won't come off again.
i've used it to bond a large table to a stone floor.
when it came to trying to remove the table, it took the floor with it.
Lol was that in McDonalds ?
HEY!!! keep my place of work out of this!
Anyone contemplating this please be mindful that the bodyside panel is not weight bearing or in any way a structural load point - it is the upper frame structure (Cantrail reinforcement) that becomes the weight bearing part. Not an A3 but another Audi this shows the typical construction :-
He's already stated they would be be just for show, but then would they be sold on with the vehicle and the next owner know they are not original factory fitted. I had a rear spoiler fitted to my mondeo that was bonded in place and had no problems with car washes etc.
It was for the benefit of anyone coming across this thread in the future who's contemplating an OEM retrofit.
If it's not mentioned (the stuck on rails) when the car is p/exd for example and they look like OEM rails then it would be an easy mistake to make.
LOL..Just spat me tea out......
Nice one Rob!
I want to do the same but would be buying the set from the website posted above so would need stuck on. If you me stick yours on can you let me know what you used and how solid they are. Cheers
Don't doubt it, that stuff is very very very strong. 3M VHB (very high bond) is extraordinary stuff, and at £300 a roll it should be.
If you use it, be assured that the bars won't come off, not without peeling the paint off the roof anyway...
Roof bars though? Really? I just can't see the appeal...
CT1 is brilliant stuff, the weak link will be the paint on the body shell
To glue on a set of 'fake' roof rails sounds so stupid I'm amazed any one with any sense at all would consider it.
Got to agree, do it right or don't do it.
If the next owner loads them up, then spills their load on a motorway when the paint rips off and causes a pile up who would be liable?
The person who glued them on or the new driver?
It could well be joint responsibility, in the first instance the owner but I would imagine a private prosecution would work against the dubious person who stuck them on. As equipped the vehicle would be in a dangerous condition.
Same as if you bought a car with stuck on wheels.
This act could easily lead to fatalities so think long and hard before risking it.
Has anyone actually fitted OEM rails since this thread stopped?
I want to fit rails - OEM ones, not stick ons, but have two questions:
1. How does one drill through the frame hole into the roof panel at spot on 90 degrees - ie how to overcome the parallax?
2. Are the rails for the 8V the same as the 8P ones?
Thanks for any help!
1. Masking tape, centre punch and a small pilot hole will be a good start. Remember drill bits for sheet metal are different to other drill bits.
2. I don't know for sure but would expect them to be different.
yes, but how to ensure that the holes in the actual roof panel are central to the larger ones in the frame? I presume it matters to ensure that the main fixing is straight?
I would measure a car with OEM rails, use these dimensions to position the rails and then drill to suit that. Holes in the frame will be clearance holes for tool access and not necessarily concentric anyway due to body build tolerances.
That is a good idea.
Now, I thought the holes that are in the frame were for the fixing barrel and the subsequently drilled holes in the roof panel had to be dead centre to allow the screws through - but that is me looking at some pictures. I should buy the rails, get a clear idea and then work from there I guess. Or use the Thule fittings for a rail-less mount. But I do like the rails on the A3.
Look stop being so damn stupid, its more than a hole to fit these there's the cross section earlier in this thread.
It's not possible so for the sake of every one safety forget it?
Thanks for that, but no, I will not forget it if OK with you!
Well, started the roof rail retrofit today. If time is not an issue, then not a difficult job at all - providing you have some basic engineering skills! The hard part is dropping the headlining. The secret here is not to rush it, and remember that everything at the top is supported by something underneath - so start by taking the rear seat out, and then all the trim panels working from door sills up. There is one nightmare of a screw under the rear seat belt plate for which you will need the smallest ratchet with a philips head that you can find.
The hole positions are not marked as such, but by placing the steel balancers in place, and using an 8mm drill, it is possible to mark the positions inside, then remove the balancers and then drill a small pilot hole on the mark. A quick check with the rails that the spacing is indeed correct, then from the outside, open up the pilot holes to 13 or 14mm to accommodate the balancer centres, refit the balancers, tighten them to a good fit, fit the rails and tighten with the special nuts.
As the rails are really decorative, I thought maybe black gloss them along with the shark fin and door handles to extend the black pack, so I do not have a picture of them fitted (maybe post one next week), and because the access points in the car are recessed, it was difficult to get pictures of each stage, but truly it is not difficult. If anyone wants to do this, then I am happy to talk through it - or bring your car to the South of France and I will help..!! But here is a pic of the finished holes with the balancer and retaining nuts required.
Did this retrofit work as attended? Would love to see a picture if you still have the car?
Why would you want them? unless they serve a must have purpose? Each to their own of course and maybe im on my own but unless you need them I think they look out of place. and certainly don't understand why you would stick them on.
I think the car looks out of place without them
nah, looks fine without them
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