Has anyone added a subwoofer or amplifier to their 8v?

I have a 2017 A3 Sedan/Saloon which came with *** and no subwoofer control. The sound was very boring and flat. I got tired of waiting for Audi to update the MMI firmware to give me control of the subwoofer so I picked up a Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 subwoofer and an amp with speaker-level (high-level) inputs and a remote bass control. I just used the existing wires from the factory sub.

Its probably not the most powerful subwoofer in town but WOW what a difference it made. Trunk space is a priority for me so I wanted a shallow-mount sub which would work in a free-air/IB setup (meaning, not in a box). I would probably be happier with the sound if I had a beefier sub in a box but it sounds pretty darn good as is, and it only sticks down about 1 inch below the rear deck so it doesn't eat up my trunk space.

I'd be very interested in a part number for the Parrot loom mentioned above. I've searched around and haven't been able to find it. I guess the Audison one should work also, so thanks for that link! I've got some quite nice Focal
speakers along with an amp/DSP combo for the doors that I was planning to put in at the same time as my sub install, but the sub by itself has made such an improvement that upgrading the rest has become less of a priority.

If anyone is considering going the same route I did, I'd be happy to share more details about my setup, as this was very much a learning experience for me.

Hey there. I am trying to retrofit Audi SS to my stock entry system. My vehicle is 17' A3 FL Sedan, same as yours. I assembled the center mid, and also purchased front speakers and waiting for them to ship. However I suppose I should skip the oem subwoofer and put a different one like you did. My question is does pioneer 8" sit to the oem hole under the rear parcel? Where did you put it in your vehicle? Also what amp have you used? Cheers.
 
Stupid question alert.

What on earth is the *** system peeps are referring to.
 
Audi
Sound
System

*** = Audi Sound System ! Of course, it's obvious. No wonder Bletchley Park turned me down.

Then I tried to use it's abbreviation and got to the bottom of the reason.

OK now I understand the parlance I too am looking at adding the *** to my FL A3 MY 2017.

@DJAlix I will send you a note to your business e-mail to discuss.
 
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Hey there. I am trying to retrofit Audi SS to my stock entry system. My vehicle is 17' A3 FL Sedan, same as yours. I assembled the center mid, and also purchased front speakers and waiting for them to ship. However I suppose I should skip the oem subwoofer and put a different one like you did. My question is does pioneer 8" sit to the oem hole under the rear parcel? Where did you put it in your vehicle? Also what amp have you used? Cheers.

Hello. I used two 8" MDF rings to mount the subwoofer to the rear deck. I first covered the entire rear deck in a layer of sound-deadening material (like dynamat, but a less expensive alternative). Then I attached the subwoofer to the MDF rings using screws, and drilled up from the bottom into the MDF and used a couple more screws to fasten the whole thing down. So under the cover, my rear shelf looks something like this now (only I used MDF rings from ebay/amazon, not custom cut boards like this person did):
https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/blaausl10/media/bWVkaWFJZDoxNjAyODA4MA==/?ref=

My amp is a Kicker CX300.1 which I got on ebay for $50. It works perfectly with my sub, the only small issue is, apparently Kicker amps don't play well with Auto Start/Stop systems, so when my car restarts itself after stopping for a red light, the subwoofer stops working for a couple seconds. Not a huge problem, and I can get around it by disabling Auto Start/Stop. I've heard that other manufacturer's amps don't have this problem.
 
I know this is an older thread but I have a question regarding the active noise cancellation when installing an aftermarket subwoofer. I have connected many systems In the past but have never had an issue like I am experiencing with my 2017 s3. Everything works perfectly until I turn my car off. When I turn the car off the subwoofer creates a lot off bass from some type of tone until I either open the trunk or hit the analog power button on the center console. It also randomly goes off after I have locked the car and have gone inside. I have a Lc2i hi/low convertor getting signal from the rear subwoofer to a single amplifier/subwoofer. Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
 
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Thats awesome Alix, good to talk to someone who has good experience too! I myself have been in the audio game for the last 20 or so years and have built some of the most insane audio vehicles in the UK...its my hobby and also my profession luckily

Thats my fear, from what I can gather, the stock Audi system does filter to some extent...but listening to some of my usual music, it seems to play most if not all the frequencies through the stock speakers...which is making me wonder if the original base spec stereo (which I believe has no external amplification or processing), does give more of a full range signal than any of the higher specc'd units (unless we are talking fibre of course)

Looking around the boot for external amplification etc, there isnt anything I can find (although I havent looked too deep to be honest), and the headunit doesnt have any output setting for subwoofer etc...hence I have always believed its a basic setup in there at the moment...albeit, it does sound very good for stock! To know whether ours has fiber output, is it a matter of having to remove the brain in the glovebox and looking behind there?

One BIG annoyance I have with the stock system is the volume limits...which is another reason I want to get cracking with my audio build lol

Not sure if you have ever looked into it much, but I have heard instances where people have used the MoBridge units to get an optical input, have lost their bluetooth mics?

Hi Teamspb, did you manage to get a full range output from the headunit or optical out ? if not what method did you use to send signal to amp ?

Alix, if my unit has optical out, does this has to be activated ? and with this can I still use the on screen controls ?
 
I have gone the optical path for one year now, using this:

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT860/zen-v.html

MMI->Most150 optical to Navtv Zen-V-> TosLink optical to Audison AP 4.9 bit

Apart from the fact that the sound is crystal clear (with good speakers and sound deadening), I finally managed to skip the fragile internal amp of the MMI.

Expensive interface, but worth every penny.

P.S. Yes, MOST output activation needs coding via VCDS, but a relatively easy one.
 
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I have gone the optical path for one year now, using this:

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT860/zen-v.html

MMI->Most150 optical to Navtv Zen-V-> TosLink optical to Audison AP 4.9 bit

Apart from the fact that the sound is crystal clear (with good speakers and sound deadening), I finally managed to skip the fragile internal amp of the MMI.

Expensive interface, but worth every penny.

P.S. Yes, MOST output activation needs coding via VCDS, but a relatively easy one.

BillyGiann thanks for the reply,
wow this seems like the best solution sound quality wise, it is a little expensive but I bet it's worth it.
Care to share more info on your setup?
I'm aiming the change the speakers to component mids and tweeters and a sub in the trunk but like to reuse the factory speaker wiring.
 
Retrofitting the Audi Sound System Sub, and centre, is one of my most popular retrofits at a rate of 2 to 3 a week. Totally OEM with no splicing as all factory parts are used.

The internal amps on the basic MMI units can have their additional outputs activated and an additional tone control added in order to connect 3rd party items also, again no need for splicing.

hi if i send you a message, could you quote me to have this done to my 66plate a3 Saloon. Thanks
 
Hi All, sorry to revive an old thread... I was wondering if it's a matter of plug and play with the sub unit for the audi sound system? I got a replacement MMI MIB1 that has the sub volume coded already (as I can tell the main speakers now don't have as much deep base). I've seen one on eBay (part number 8V0035382D), but wasn't sure what else I need!

TIA
 
I think the sub only fits in to a 19” spare wheel on a hatchback. So you might need one if yours is an 18” spare.
 
Old thread I know .but I'm lookin to add a slime line sub with its own built in amp . Vibe optisound active 8 to be exact . Looking to take a feed from the existing sub as all I need is a signal to power the amp as it has active sensing . Can anyone tell me what wire does what on the sub . Power feed will be direct of the battery etc . Thanks
 
As per telephone conversation this morning, quad lock top two middle pins are the Sub.
Hi Alex . Yeah can I not take a direct feed of the sub in the boot ? All I need is a feed for the speaker wires . Here's the cable that comes with the sub unit .
 

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Hi Alex . Yeah can I not take a direct feed of the sub in the boot ? All I need is a feed for the speaker wires . Here's the cable that comes with the sub unit .
You can, and indeed that’s what I suggested on the call, but just in case you wanted to change out any looms etc I thought to let you know the pins also.
 
You can, and indeed that’s what I suggested on the call, but just in case you wanted to change out any looms etc I thought to let you know the pins also.
Yeah sweet mate . Can you tell me what wire is what on the sub connector please as I'll probably keep the standard unit in but run this set up also .thanks
 
You can, and indeed that’s what I suggested on the call, but just in case you wanted to change out any looms etc I thought to let you know the pins also.
What wires will I tap into on the original sub with the new speaker wires for a signal for the new sub and amp Alix ? Thanks
 
What wires will I tap into on the original sub with the new speaker wires for a signal for the new sub and amp Alix ? Thanks
I don’t have a wiring diagram to hand so not sure which wire is which but there is only two pins / wires. If you are at the MIB side then it’s the top two middle pins on the quadlock, if at the OEM sub then it will be the connector housing….
 
I don’t have a wiring diagram to hand so not sure which wire is which but there is only two pins / wires. If you are at the MIB side then it’s the top two middle pins on the quadlock, if at the OEM sub then it will be the connector housing….
Sure there are 3 pins on the OEM sub connector housing
 
Sure there are 3 pins on the OEM sub connector housing
You said that you have the Audi sound system and not B&O? As someone who retrofits the Audi sound system to 3 / 4 cars a week I am pretty sure it’s just two wires / pins :)
 
I don’t have a wiring diagram to hand so not sure which wire is which but there is only two pins / wires. If you are at the MIB side then it’s the top two middle pins on the quadlock, if at the OEM sub then it will be the connector housing….
Yes your right only 2 cables . So I have a grey speaker cable and a white speaker cable on the new sub what one goes where for auto sensing signal ?
 

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Yes your right only 2 cables . So I have a grey speaker cable and a white speaker cable on the new sub what one goes where for auto sensing signal ?
Not sure the polarity off the top of my head. I would connect and test, and then swap around if not working as expected.
 
Not sure the polarity off the top of my head. I would connect and test, and then swap around if not working as expected.
Appreciate your help mate . And there's no risk of overloading the mib2 headunit amp because the new sub has its own inbuilt amp correct ?
 
Appreciate your help mate . And there's no risk of overloading the mib2 headunit amp because the new sub has its own inbuilt amp correct ?
Welcome.

our just taking the output from the MIB and connecting it to a different speaker. How it will behave when two are connected I am not sure as this is not something I have done but cannot see it causing any physical issues.
 
Welcome.

our just taking the output from the MIB and connecting it to a different speaker. How it will behave when two are connected I am not sure as this is not something I have done but cannot see it causing any physical issues.
Evening Alix what was the pins you told me to connect on the headunit to run an amp to get the best out the standard speakers in the car ?
 
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Perfect mate thank you ..so just pretty much run a feed from the amp to the top 2 middle pins will then amplify the speakers
 
Think I have installed one of these before, customer supplied. Did what it said on the box but the looms were very short.
Make much difference to the Audi sound system speakers you think ? 560 peak 260rms or do you think won't change much ?
 
Make much difference to the Audi sound system speakers you think ? 560 peak 260rms or do you think won't change much ?
Basically when you turn these MIBs up the internal amp will turn itself down and up to protect the speakers. This external amp stopped the volume changes and allowed the customer to go “full rude boy” volume with his music.
 
Basically when you turn these MIBs up the internal amp will turn itself down and up to protect the speakers. This external amp stopped the volume changes and allowed the customer to go “full rude boy” volume with his music.
Pretty much what I'm after then . Basically all I need to know is it safe and it's not going to blow the mmi or mibs to bits is it ?
 
It’s designed to work with the MIB so should be ok.
Alix vibe have asked how is the upgraded audi system amplified ?is it through the headunit or does it have an external amp in the car ? Cheers
 
Alix vibe have asked how is the upgraded audi system amplified ?is it through the headunit or does it have an external amp in the car ? Cheers
As per our telephone conversation of the other day, if you have the base system or the middle system (Audi sound system) the internal MIB amp is used. If you have B&O then it’s an external amp which is connected via MOST. For Vibe to ask this question, well it does not really inspire confidence lol
 
As per our telephone conversation of the other day, if you have the base system or the middle system (Audi sound system) the internal MIB amp is used. If you have B&O then it’s an external amp which is connected via MOST. For Vibe to ask this question, well it does not really inspire confidence lol
Ha ha yes I know. they tried telling me the rear speakers can sometimes be amplified...I said I'm pretty sure it is only amplified from the mib(being the head unit ) which you have just clarified to be correct . Cheers Danny
 
As per our telephone conversation of the other day, if you have the base system or the middle system (Audi sound system) the internal MIB amp is used. If you have B&O then it’s an external amp which is connected via MOST. For Vibe to ask this question, well it does not really inspire confidence lol
Just want to check before I fit this this afternoon Alix that 4ohms will be fine for what's in the Audi sound system at the moment . Am I right in saying it's 2ohms system in the car at the moment or is it a 4ohms system ?
 

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I feel like interrupting your discussion, but since you are about to install an external amp, I would advise you to invest on a quality line output converter between the mmi and the amp. Your concern for defects on mmi amp is reasonable, actually it is my experience with two mmi units, even with high quality amps, before going optical.
JL Audio LoC 22 and AudioControl Lc2i pro are good options - the second one will also handle the bass level limit that DJAlix mentioned