H&R Sport Springs vs Eibach Pro-Kit

There should be no noise from the suspension at all...

In my experience you need to encourage them to go down, otherwise they'll stay roughly where they are although it'll take 2-3 weeks for them to reach the height they'll remain at. I wouldn't worry about it because over S-line they're only going another 5-10mm which you may not notice with the eye. Its the extra stiffness and improved handling they bring that we want.

I don't like the sound of AMD's explanation to you. It doesn't sit right in my head that the FSDs you have should be taller than the OEM damper. At the very least they should be the same height or shorter depending on design.

And yes 2mm makes a difference. On my sister's Ibiza, the parts shop sent SE dampers when her car is FR and when fitted they made a noise. After the sport or FR dampers were fitted the noise went away. The SE damper was about 2mm taller than the sport version, but it made all the difference.

Don't forget to leave it 2-3 weeks before you go for a Hunter alignment but perhaps wait until this noise issue is sorted. No point paying for the alignment and then having to pay for it again if AMD open the suspension up.

Thanks man. Although I had the Hunter alignment at the time of installation. Would you still advise another after 2 or 3 weeks in?
 
Thanks man. Although I had the Hunter alignment at the time of installation. Would you still advise another after 2 or 3 weeks in?

Nah it should be OK.

Has the noise gone?

If there was no noise before, and there is noise afterwards that means its related to the work or parts that garage fitted. Their explanation sounds like a fob off to me, I'd go back and kick up a fuss.
 
Looking forward to fitting mine! Btw, do you have any pics of how it looks with the eibachs on?

2 Weeks in and seemingly no drop from normal S-Line setup. Excuse the filth, it's having a bath this weekend.
 

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Nah it should be OK.

Has the noise gone?

If there was no noise before, and there is noise afterwards that means its related to the work or parts that garage fitted. Their explanation sounds like a fob off to me, I'd go back and kick up a fuss.

Hmm.. I might do if it continues. The car is actually in at Victoria Audi at the moment, I mentioned on here a few weeks back that I was hearing a clucking noise when turning the wheel at slower speeds, initial feedback from the garage is that they suspect top mounts are in need of replacement - surprising as it's only done 24k. I'm wondering if that could be causing the noise?

Fingers crossed that whatever work needs done will be covered by the used approved warranty!
 
It's possible the top mounts are causing the noise but I wouldn't think they'd be worn at 24k!
 
2 Weeks in and seemingly no drop from normal S-Line setup. Excuse the filth, it's having a bath this weekend.

Hmm, looks like the rear should have settled more. I finally got my springs in the mail yesterday, so I'm going to fit them later today.

What was the part number on your kit? Cause mine are not progressive (says linear in the TUV documents)

Cheers
 
Hmm, looks like the rear should have settled more. I finally got my springs in the mail yesterday, so I'm going to fit them later today.

What was the part number on your kit? Cause mine are not progressive (says linear in the TUV documents)

Cheers

Oh really? The Pro Kit springs are progressive so I'd double check you have the correct ones before installing.
 
It's possible the top mounts are causing the noise but I wouldn't think they'd be worn at 24k!

As I suspected, because it's not OEM suspension Audi have refused to diagnose the slight steering clunk and have turned me away! Buggers.. Especially as it had the Koni FSD's fitted before I bought the car! Thankfully they haven't charged me for the inspection and have given the car a clean.. Anyway, Sayam, I saw on a previous post from you that you had some tips on vibrations at 80mph + which is one of the symptoms I'm currently experiencing. It's not severe but basically, between 80 mph and about 86mph the ride changes and I get feedback through the steering wheel. You can blast through over 90 but there's something amis.

Any ideas?
 
As I suspected, because it's not OEM suspension Audi have refused to diagnose the slight steering clunk and have turned me away! Buggers.. Especially as it had the Koni FSD's fitted before I bought the car! Thankfully they haven't charged me for the inspection and have given the car a clean.. Anyway, Sayam, I saw on a previous post from you that you had some tips on vibrations at 80mph + which is one of the symptoms I'm currently experiencing. It's not severe but basically, between 80 mph and about 86mph the ride changes and I get feedback through the steering wheel. You can blast through over 90 but there's something amis.

Any ideas?

Might need to do some balancing of the wheels. If there is a slight unbalance on one of the wheels, it can bahave like you describe. (and tighten up the wheel bolts, that can cause clunking and some feedback)

Oh really? The Pro Kit springs are progressive so I'd double check you have the correct ones before installing.

Well, I checked, and apparently the pro kit for my car has linear springs. Do you have an area of tighter coils on yours?
 
Might need to do some balancing of the wheels. If there is a slight unbalance on one of the wheels, it can bahave like you describe. (and tighten up the wheel bolts, that can cause clunking and some feedback)

Already had the balancing done

Well, I checked, and apparently the pro kit for my car has linear springs. Do you have an area of tighter coils on yours?

Ah, I think we have been talking about different things? I have just had the Eibach Pro Kit springs fitted. Not coils. What do you have?
 
Ah, I think we have been talking about different things? I have just had the Eibach Pro Kit springs fitted. Not coils. What do you have?

Yeah, just the springs, but the progressive ones have varying coil density, while linear ones does not vary. (see picture)
 

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Yeah, just the springs, but the progressive ones have varying coil density, while linear ones does not vary. (see picture)

Hmm, at this point I'm afraid it's over my head. Perhaps ask Sayam - he's the expert. He actually started this thread some time ago. :)
 
Hmm, at this point I'm afraid it's over my head. Perhaps ask Sayam - he's the expert. He actually started this thread some time ago. :)

Well, I know that the springs are the correct ones, just wondering if UK has some fancy springs that us mere mortals can't have... :p
 
I can't remember if the Pro-Kit are progressive or not. They've been in my car nearly 2 years and I've definitely forgotten what they look like lol!

@TDents84 That wobble sounds like balancing in the first instance. Here's the order in which I'd check things:

1. Check tyres are round with no flat spots or bubbles
2. Check cold tyre inflation
3. Check tyres are fitted on the rim correctly (heavy spot of tyre opposite heavy spot of the wheel)
4. Check balancing - often the 5g some tyre shops leave off causes issues at higher speeds
5. Check/replace suspension bushes if required and complete Hunter alignment afterwards
 
2 Weeks in and seemingly no drop from normal S-Line setup. Excuse the filth, it's having a bath this weekend.

It deffo should drop down more than that. Mine's the one in he middle on Pro-Kit springs:

11880605_155945098071753_6153184197306194838_n.jpg


The rear arch is sat on the tyre more or less...
 
I can't remember if the Pro-Kit are progressive or not. They've been in my car nearly 2 years and I've definitely forgotten what they look like lol!

@TDents84 That wobble sounds like balancing in the first instance. Here's the order in which I'd check things:

1. Check tyres are round with no flat spots or bubbles
2. Check cold tyre inflation
3. Check tyres are fitted on the rim correctly (heavy spot of tyre opposite heavy spot of the wheel)
4. Check balancing - often the 5g some tyre shops leave off causes issues at higher speeds
5. Check/replace suspension bushes if required and complete Hunter alignment afterwards

All very sage tips. Thanks man. And remind me (I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere on this thread) - What shocks/dampers do you have?
 
All very sage tips. Thanks man. And remind me (I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere on this thread) - What shocks/dampers do you have?

Standard Audi, they've never been touched. I replaced top mounts and their bearings when I got the springs done and thats it.

The dampers are just about starting to get ever so slightly bouncy so maybe I'll get a few months out of them.

I'm concerned as to why your car hasn't dropped down...
 
Standard Audi, they've never been touched. I replaced top mounts and their bearings when I got the springs done and thats it.

The dampers are just about starting to get ever so slightly bouncy so maybe I'll get a few months out of them.

I'm concerned as to why your car hasn't dropped down...

Yeh it's weird isn't it. AMD said it was the koni's keeping it up which, as you say, just doesn't seem right. I'm thinking i'll get the Koni FSD's switched out for very standard Bilstein B4 gas dampers. To be totally honest, I haven't measured the drop for about 9/10 days so it's possible it's come down a bit although certainly not as much as yours. Nice motor by the way! :) What rims do you have? Size and style.
 
Yeh it's weird isn't it. AMD said it was the koni's keeping it up which, as you say, just doesn't seem right. I'm thinking i'll get the Koni FSD's switched out for very standard Bilstein B4 gas dampers. To be totally honest, I haven't measured the drop for about 9/10 days so it's possible it's come down a bit although certainly not as much as yours. Nice motor by the way! :) What rims do you have? Size and style.
S-Line dampers are shorter than koni fsds, dont go the bilstein b4 route, bilstein B8s are your best bet, they are shorter.
 
S-Line dampers are shorter than koni fsds, dont go the bilstein b4 route, bilstein B8s are your best bet, they are shorter.

Hiya, Oh right, so in the FSDs would keep the car higher then? AMD didn't just make that up?
 
Does anyone recommend changing top mounts when changing springs and shocks? Heard about the rs3 mounts are a good option
 
Just read through this and can add comment to a few things.
RS3 top mounts are a great option & are actually cheaper than A3 top mounts, been running them for the last 3 years on my Sline, also I tend to change my top mounts and bearings whenever I fit new suspension, and definitely change the bearings every time I remove the struts - for the little they cost it makes little sense not to vs time and labour to pull everything back off if they fail after refitting. As for the Eibach springs saying they are linear, I noticed this myself on the paperwork that came with my Sportlines, however looking at the coiling on the Spring in terms of diameter & coil spacing, there's no way they are. Finally, I too developed a squeak after lowering the car I've never been able to 100% trace where it's coming from but I'm pretty sure it has something to with the extra stresses being put through dampers with anything other than standard linear springs.
 
Just read through this and can add comment to a few things.
RS3 top mounts are a great option & are actually cheaper than A3 top mounts, been running them for the last 3 years on my Sline, also I tend to change my top mounts and bearings whenever I fit new suspension, and definitely change the bearings every time I remove the struts - for the little they cost it makes little sense not to vs time and labour to pull everything back off if they fail after refitting. As for the Eibach springs saying they are linear, I noticed this myself on the paperwork that came with my Sportlines, however looking at the coiling on the Spring in terms of diameter & coil spacing, there's no way they are. Finally, I too developed a squeak after lowering the car I've never been able to 100% trace where it's coming from but I'm pretty sure it has something to with the extra stresses being put through dampers with anything other than standard linear springs.

I tend to agree on the squeking - certainly it was more pronounced when I had the h&r 50mm. Not a peep when the OEM springs were on.
 
Just read through this and can add comment to a few things.
RS3 top mounts are a great option & are actually cheaper than A3 top mounts, been running them for the last 3 years on my Sline, also I tend to change my top mounts and bearings whenever I fit new suspension, and definitely change the bearings every time I remove the struts - for the little they cost it makes little sense not to vs time and labour to pull everything back off if they fail after refitting. As for the Eibach springs saying they are linear, I noticed this myself on the paperwork that came with my Sportlines, however looking at the coiling on the Spring in terms of diameter & coil spacing, there's no way they are. Finally, I too developed a squeak after lowering the car I've never been able to 100% trace where it's coming from but I'm pretty sure it has something to with the extra stresses being put through dampers with anything other than standard linear springs.
Do you have part numbers for the rs3 top mounts and the bearings needed or where to get them from? Does the bearings have to be specific rs3 style as well etc? (Sorry for noob question)
 
Do you have part numbers for the rs3 top mounts and the bearings needed or where to get them from? Does the bearings have to be specific rs3 style as well etc? (Sorry for noob question)

Very keen to know this too as am about to change dampers and springs all round, mainly bearings as assume a parts request would take care of the top mounts!
 
Hmm, at this point I'm afraid it's over my head. Perhaps ask Sayam - he's the expert. He actually started this thread some time ago. :)

Just fitted the spring and the fsd's. omg the difference! I am a happy chap :D got some squeak, and I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Does anyone recommend changing top mounts when changing springs and shocks? Heard about the rs3 mounts are a good option

I always change them, its a no brainer when it's all open.

Yeh it's weird isn't it. AMD said it was the koni's keeping it up which, as you say, just doesn't seem right. I'm thinking i'll get the Koni FSD's switched out for very standard Bilstein B4 gas dampers. To be totally honest, I haven't measured the drop for about 9/10 days so it's possible it's come down a bit although certainly not as much as yours. Nice motor by the way! :) What rims do you have? Size and style.

18x8J ET42 (in hindsight ET45 would have been better).

S-Line dampers are shorter than koni fsds, dont go the bilstein b4 route, bilstein B8s are your best bet, they are shorter.

I agree with the above. Slightly stiffer from what I've read too which will control the spring better.
 
Do you have part numbers for the rs3 top mounts and the bearings needed or where to get them from? Does the bearings have to be specific rs3 style as well etc? (Sorry for noob question)

The bearings are identical to what is fitted to the A3, RS3 top mount part number is 8J0 412 331 , it's also fitted to the TTRS.
 
The bearings are identical to what is fitted to the A3, RS3 top mount part number is 8J0 412 331 , it's also fitted to the TTRS.
Thanks for the info. Just found this as well for bearings actually:
6N0 412 249 D - strut bearing or SKF VKD 35025 T (2)

The skf versions better I heard than the original oem? Can anyone comment??
 

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