Guide - How to fit a catch can and simplify the PCV system

I suggest you spend a little time reading up on the various systems you're trying to change. If you don't understand it, don't mess with it.
 
I suggest you spend a little time reading up on the various systems you're trying to change. If you don't understand it, don't mess with it.
just don't understand the abbreviations .. and without pictures i could read anything and be confused .. its just how I am (IE .. not a learn by reading person)

seen these on eBay ..

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Oi...544298?hash=item2cc371506a:g:GnwAAOSwn45ZzxHY

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Baffled-Brus...116695?hash=item1ed2a60d97:g:0QYAAOSwh21aUw93

either of them any good ?

I have to stop the blow by its ******* my performance big time .. empties 120mls today of oil from intercooler alone
 
Oil getting into the intercooler is normally from bad turbo seals

<tuffty/>
 
Oil getting into the intercooler is normally from bad turbo seals

<tuffty/>
I did wonder about that today as noticed my oil leak was predominantly from oil feed pipe area to turbo .. and have noticed a whistling now when turbo spools up fast

oh .. also .. I started using oil recently too .. which haven't done for 18 months prior to now
 
Hi all,

Contemplating on running a larger catch can with AN fittings and hose than the one Ive currently install which is 0.5 litre with 19mm barbed fittings and 19mm I.D hose. 1.2-2 litre preferably and I’ve got the space for it in the engine bay now. My question is.... all catch tanks/cans I’ve seen available are -10AN not only that but the Forge Motorsport and IE cam and block breather adaptors are -10AN. But from some research the I.D of the -10AN fittings and hose is approx 13mm will this be enough for the engine to breath fine. I assume it would be with IE and forge Motorsport not supplying the adaptors any bigger and the catch tanks/cans aren’t available with anything bigger than -10AN it would be ok?

Ash
 
IE/etc are effectively just an expensive restriction. Stick to bigger hoses if possible.

Do you really need a 2l can?
 
IE/etc are effectively just an expensive restriction. Stick to bigger hoses if possible.

Do you really need a 2l can?

Thanks for your input bud, just a little concerned that my 0.5L catch can might be a little on the small side. That and I like how clean the AN hoses and fittings look. If the adaptors are a big restriction then there’s no point going the AN route I guess.
 
13mm ID = 530mm^2 flow area
19mm ID (stock)= 1134mm^2 flow area.

By dropping the hose size to 13mm you're reducing the flow area to less than half which is one hell of a difference, particularly when you are putting the system under more strain from a more highly strung setup too.

Small cans are easy to hide away, they just need emptying more regularly. How much fluid are you collecting at present? Do you have to empty the existing can often? If it's very frequent or there's a lot being caught, there could be more of an underlying issue at hand.
 
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13mm ID = 530mm^2 flow area
19mm ID (stock)= 1134mm^2 flow area.

By dropping the hose size to 13mm you're reducing the flow area to less than half which is one hell of a difference, particularly when you are putting the system under more strain from a more highly strung setup too.

Small cans are easy to hide away, they just need emptying more regularly. How much fluid are you collecting at present? Do you have to empty the existing can often? If it's very frequent or there's a lot being caught, there could be more of an underlying issue at hand.

My cars off the road while I’m doing the work to it, so I can judge weather I need to get a bigger one or if the one I have is enough. To be honest this won’t be a daily so i probably can get away with a smaller one. As for the flow areas, that’s interesting! Thanks for the calculations. I’ll continue to run the 19mm pipework I’ve got. Further research has led me to believe that -10AN pipework and fittings might be enough on a stage 1 setup in warm climates where the pipework is less likely to go below freezing, cold morning will congeal the oil/gunk in the pipework thus restricting it more. So bigger the better in that respect. I’ll see how I get on with the catch can I’ve got when the cars up and running with the hybrid setup, I can always drop in a bigger one then if I need too. We would have to run -16AN pipework and fittings as a comparison to the 19mm pipework. But then like you say the adaptors will be the restriction then. Thanks again mate.


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Do i need to add an extra 1 way valve on the brake booster side? Or just conect the pipe to manifold?
 
Do i need to add an extra 1 way valve on the brake booster side? Or just conect the pipe to manifold?

No there should be one near the brake servo bud. So connect it straight to the manifold


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Think I've set this up right for BAM engine..
Tip blocked.
Oil housing breather pipe - T piece - crankcase and to inlet of catch can.
Catch can outlet fed to atmosphere with breather on end?
Brake vac pipe fed straight to side port on inlet manifold and fit one way valve there for a back up?
 
With regards to the hockey Puck, whats the point of fitting it?

Surely you can go straight to the tip?

From my understanding the Puck has a spring which opens up under vac, but when it's closed does that cause back pressure on the whole system?

Only asking as on my old g40 we use to get rid of the flying saucer (hockey Puck) and go straight from crank to tank and vent to atmos or back in the inlet.
 
I know some people added a valve to try and keep negative pressure in the block and also I am unsure about my puck being straight in the TIP. but my engine puffs out of both the breathers and has done for about a year now (3000 miles) I don't think this was caused by the catch can and was probably from 7000 rpm :D and a crap ECU from eBay which was maybe knocking? - everytime I put my foot down I visualise Ian's rods :)

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guys i asked my girlfriend and she says 3bar is better "because 4bar is too big a pressure"


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