Gonzo's S3
- Thread starter Gonzokew
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SamHendry
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I had a bbt k418t which was a pain in the **** because no one said back then they don't come to you with a ported hotside so it only made 300bhp. I got a tte360 but then had issues with gaskets (you need a fsu copper gasket) which took about a month to arrive, tried gasketless which didn't work and then my pro4 manifold cracked in about 12 places. Badger5 wasn't doing manifolds anymore at the time, was only pro4 and I wasn't paying out to have another put on and crack on me again, turned out the flange opening was no bigger than stock on the damn thing either. I was like **** this **** and did it properly and went big turbo. I'm not a fan of hybrids on 1.8T because of the bad experiences I had. Plus going to big turbo from hybrid means you've got to buy all new hardware again (downpipe etc) so it ends up being a very expensive way of doing things. Personally I'd just go big turbo but hybrid is natural progression from stage 1, 2 etc so I get why people do it as it's what I did but big Turbo is a different league in my opinion.
Tte360 made 320 from memory with the cracked manifold and blowing gasket lol so I saw it had potential.
Tte360 made 320 from memory with the cracked manifold and blowing gasket lol so I saw it had potential.
Recently acquired some forge rear arms which look nice and beefy so will be installing along with some coilovers in the next couple months.
Firstly something more serious needs doing - cam chain tensioner
Slight rattle for half a second or so on start up, idle a bit lumpy and on the liquid gauge MAF readings I'm making 275bhp and it was mapped at 300. Also the main culprit the fault code 16395.
I've had the timing checked 3 times and all is good so now I'll have to bite the bullet and fork out for a replacement.
All part of the fun...
Firstly something more serious needs doing - cam chain tensioner
Slight rattle for half a second or so on start up, idle a bit lumpy and on the liquid gauge MAF readings I'm making 275bhp and it was mapped at 300. Also the main culprit the fault code 16395.
I've had the timing checked 3 times and all is good so now I'll have to bite the bullet and fork out for a replacement.
All part of the fun...
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I think the maf reading estimation is only a ballpark isn't it?
Have you run torque pro to see what it's dyno simulator is "guess-timating"
Don't some mappers custom advance the timing to generate more power - from banging more when the cylinder is at the top instead of on the way down? That doesn't increase the maf readings.
Have you run torque pro to see what it's dyno simulator is "guess-timating"
Don't some mappers custom advance the timing to generate more power - from banging more when the cylinder is at the top instead of on the way down? That doesn't increase the maf readings.
Replaced the tightening clips for the xenon headlights today. Bought 2 sets off eBay and they fit a piece of cake.
If anyone has broken they're clips and not done this it literally is a 5 min job once they're out.
Also grease the bolts when you tighten them back up as you don't want them to break again
If anyone has broken they're clips and not done this it literally is a 5 min job once they're out.
Also grease the bolts when you tighten them back up as you don't want them to break again
Cars sitting on jack stands waiting for some new (second hand) shocks and springs. Never done any suspension work before but wasn't too bad. Reason being I had a spring snap.
Took both shocks off and when compressed they just stayed in which showed the state of them.
Finally get to fit the forge adjustable tie arms that I've had sitting in the garage for about a year too.
Will be done in a few days hopefully then get the tracking done.
Not sure if people usually take the wishbone off and axle out but it made it so much easier to get it all out in one go
Took both shocks off and when compressed they just stayed in which showed the state of them.
Finally get to fit the forge adjustable tie arms that I've had sitting in the garage for about a year too.
Will be done in a few days hopefully then get the tracking done.
Not sure if people usually take the wishbone off and axle out but it made it so much easier to get it all out in one go
Today I fitted some second hand shocks and springs along with the forge adjustable tie arms.
Fair to say it was definitely over due
Took the opportunity to replace bushes with lcr ones too.
Considering it was my first time doing suspension it wasn't too bad. Did notice the rear strut hub bolt (m14x1.5 /90mm) threaded hole was in bad state so think I'm doing to helicoil it.
Apart from that no other hiccups
Fair to say it was definitely over due
Took the opportunity to replace bushes with lcr ones too.
Considering it was my first time doing suspension it wasn't too bad. Did notice the rear strut hub bolt (m14x1.5 /90mm) threaded hole was in bad state so think I'm doing to helicoil it.
Apart from that no other hiccups
In the blistering U.K. heat both door card leather bits were sagging and coming away. (Probs more the fact they're 16 years old glue)
Took both doorcards off and pulled the leather away enough to get some carpet adhesive on it.
Waited till tacky then used a plastic squeegee to pull tight.
Only got an after shot but happy as it was annoying the hell out of me.
Took both doorcards off and pulled the leather away enough to get some carpet adhesive on it.
Waited till tacky then used a plastic squeegee to pull tight.
Only got an after shot but happy as it was annoying the hell out of me.
Open windows at higher cruise speed can also cause this to happen, because it allows air to get through in between ...
I'm fixing my left door card, every 2 months... at last i notice that, my right door card is trying to fall apart too..
I'm using some type of high temp spray glue
I never thought of that! The spray I used was high temp adhesive so hopefully it will be ok. Time will tell...
5 months since my last update....
A small coolant leak has been annoying me for a while so was planning to get that sorted. I then however sold my Fabia vRS and have now replaced it with this British beast. A Jaguar XF S
3 litre twin turbo diesel, 275bhp/450lb ft. Absolutely lovingly it at the moment so the audi has been parked up in the garage feeling sorry for itself.
Electrical gremlins are the xf's achilles heel but touch wood nothing is wrong with mine at the minute. Full jaguar history, fully loaded and very happy.
I did however get the motivation to look into the leak on the S3's coolant hard pipe. After emptying coolant and removing what felt like everything to get it out finally it came free.
Apart from surface rust which I'll tidy up later it looks as though the o ring at the end of the hard line has failed.
Flat as a pancake! Will get one sorted then begin putting everything back together.
What's left to do at the minute is get another new windscreen sorted, bonnet strut and fit some replacement door blades.
Then I'm going to be going big turbo, will most likely be sourcing second hand and as a kit.
Exciting times ahead.
A small coolant leak has been annoying me for a while so was planning to get that sorted. I then however sold my Fabia vRS and have now replaced it with this British beast. A Jaguar XF S
3 litre twin turbo diesel, 275bhp/450lb ft. Absolutely lovingly it at the moment so the audi has been parked up in the garage feeling sorry for itself.
Electrical gremlins are the xf's achilles heel but touch wood nothing is wrong with mine at the minute. Full jaguar history, fully loaded and very happy.
I did however get the motivation to look into the leak on the S3's coolant hard pipe. After emptying coolant and removing what felt like everything to get it out finally it came free.
Apart from surface rust which I'll tidy up later it looks as though the o ring at the end of the hard line has failed.
Flat as a pancake! Will get one sorted then begin putting everything back together.
What's left to do at the minute is get another new windscreen sorted, bonnet strut and fit some replacement door blades.
Then I'm going to be going big turbo, will most likely be sourcing second hand and as a kit.
Exciting times ahead.
So got the pipe painted and a new 20 x 3 o ring. Got it back on but need a new inlet mani gasket so will carry on tomorrow.
New ally thermostat housing and connections fitted too.
New ally thermostat housing and connections fitted too.
Car is back together with no leaks! The fix was the o ring so a nice cheap fix for a change.
Got some door blades off a friend so going to put them on next as it lets the car down a bit at the moment.
Then I'll probably find something else to fix
Got some door blades off a friend so going to put them on next as it lets the car down a bit at the moment.
Then I'll probably find something else to fix
New battery and alternator came for the Audi this week as the voltage from alternator was fluctuating between 9-13v.
Replaced within an hour, never done one before but was really easy. 65% off gsf too so didn't cost too much either.
Replaced within an hour, never done one before but was really easy. 65% off gsf too so didn't cost too much either.
Turns out after changing the hard coolant pipe o ring which is now leak free, the hose between the hard pipe and heater matrix was cracked and was leaking under pressure. This was one of those annoying leaks that took ages as sat on idle I couldn't see any leaks! Took it to a garage and they pressure tested the system and found it.
Once receiving the car back they noted the rear anti roll bar bushes were gone so I looked around and managed to find h&r front and rear set brand new for a great price.
Bought some Gtechniq C4 trim restorer for the door blades and bumper trims. Very good stuff I must admit.
Once receiving the car back they noted the rear anti roll bar bushes were gone so I looked around and managed to find h&r front and rear set brand new for a great price.
Bought some Gtechniq C4 trim restorer for the door blades and bumper trims. Very good stuff I must admit.
This morning took some time to remove the back box and heat shield to get good access to arb and also room to take some parts off and refurb if necessary.
New exhaust hanger and a exhaust clamp needed though (head of bolt snapped off)
New exhaust hanger and a exhaust clamp needed though (head of bolt snapped off)
Got all the parts needed and fitted them. New ARB looks really nice and really strong too.
As the heatshield was off and I painted it Andy it looks really good in there now
Polished the exhaust as it's the first time it's been off since fitting back in 2014. Came up really nice
All back on and looks good. It all feels very tight now the heatshield is back on and fitted properly (I made some washers for the threads as the holes were a bit tired in places where it had corroded)
Slowly getting there.
I feel like I enjoy working on the car more than actually driving it... sad
Decat off for sports cat next as mot this month. Then will attempt the front ARB
As the heatshield was off and I painted it Andy it looks really good in there now
Polished the exhaust as it's the first time it's been off since fitting back in 2014. Came up really nice
All back on and looks good. It all feels very tight now the heatshield is back on and fitted properly (I made some washers for the threads as the holes were a bit tired in places where it had corroded)
Slowly getting there.
I feel like I enjoy working on the car more than actually driving it... sad
Decat off for sports cat next as mot this month. Then will attempt the front ARB
Got the front ARB fitted now. Was a bit of a pita but was good to finally get it on.
What I did to get the old one off...
Undo the arb bolts from arms and remove clamps for bushes.
Undo steering rack arms.
Remove the 4 steering rack bolts.
Remove dog bone mount.
Support the subframe and remove the 4 subframe bolts.
Drop the subframe about 2 inches.
This is where I could get access to the near side nut that holds the hydraulic lines from the rack.
Then remove the arb to the front of the car.
To fit the new one just worked back from this.
There may be a better way to do it but this worked for me.
Feels good and tight now they're both done.
New windscreen on Monday and then mot time
What I did to get the old one off...
Undo the arb bolts from arms and remove clamps for bushes.
Undo steering rack arms.
Remove the 4 steering rack bolts.
Remove dog bone mount.
Support the subframe and remove the 4 subframe bolts.
Drop the subframe about 2 inches.
This is where I could get access to the near side nut that holds the hydraulic lines from the rack.
Then remove the arb to the front of the car.
To fit the new one just worked back from this.
There may be a better way to do it but this worked for me.
Feels good and tight now they're both done.
New windscreen on Monday and then mot time
New windscreen, rear wiper delete and MOT done.
Power steering rack end needed and 2 wheel bearings on the way out.
Have traced an intermittent injector fault down to what must be a clogged injector as swapped over from cylinder 3 to 1 and fault moved. Coil reads 12 ohms so maybe a clean is all that's needed... Will remove and check over this week.
Power steering rack end needed and 2 wheel bearings on the way out.
Have traced an intermittent injector fault down to what must be a clogged injector as swapped over from cylinder 3 to 1 and fault moved. Coil reads 12 ohms so maybe a clean is all that's needed... Will remove and check over this week.
Found a new set of Bosch 550cc injectors at a good price so replaced all 4 last week and haven't had any issues on wot as yet. Hopefully that cures the slight hesitation problem I've been having.
As the MOT advisory was track rod inners I decided to replace them this week. Pretty easy job to do
Took apart, cleaned and rebuilt my brembos too.
I've finally managed to source a replacement bumper so with the help from AdS3's thread try to fit it with keeping my old fog lights which have been off for around 3-4years.
New bumper with my grill and lower insert. Paints a bit flat but should polish up at bit.
Cut my old aluminium elbows and cut 70mm off each side to make room for the fogs
After some adjustments to the fog brackets and grill I managed to get it all back together
Need some new fog light bulbs that's for sure!
It looks ok but definitely need to get the fog light grills sorted. Can't seem to find any so if anyone's has some let me know!
Still very tight but hopefully with the grills on you won't be able to tell.
Took it for a drive and all feels nice and tight with the new track rods and ends.
As the MOT advisory was track rod inners I decided to replace them this week. Pretty easy job to do
Took apart, cleaned and rebuilt my brembos too.
I've finally managed to source a replacement bumper so with the help from AdS3's thread try to fit it with keeping my old fog lights which have been off for around 3-4years.
New bumper with my grill and lower insert. Paints a bit flat but should polish up at bit.
Cut my old aluminium elbows and cut 70mm off each side to make room for the fogs
After some adjustments to the fog brackets and grill I managed to get it all back together
Need some new fog light bulbs that's for sure!
It looks ok but definitely need to get the fog light grills sorted. Can't seem to find any so if anyone's has some let me know!
Still very tight but hopefully with the grills on you won't be able to tell.
Took it for a drive and all feels nice and tight with the new track rods and ends.
Fog light grills are £110 on eBay for new set Audi want around the same but they are obsolete now according to Audi Stockport
Thanks for the reply, that’s good to know. Hopefully I can get a second hand pair off a breaker vehicle
Daniel M
Registered User
Audi S3 8L Genuine Bumper Fog Light Grills https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/233235488140
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Went for round two on the bumper grills. Bought a new bumper insert and trimmed what I needed.
Adjusted the fmic a little bit more and now back together.
Air con wasn't working which was a pita when it was 35 degrees and I spent a lot last year on a new compressor etc. Luckily using the climate control codes the pressure switch wasn't shutting. New one from gsf for £25 which was pretty reasonable and half hour later job done.
Checked over manifold to turbo bolts too as I had a progressively worse blow. Luckily found one of the cap head bolts had worked loose so sorted this out.
Adjusted the bi-xenon headlights a bit too as they were a little low and I don't think I've put what an amazing upgrade they are.
Went to goodwood festival of speed a few weeks back as well. 1st time I've been and definitely not the last!!!
Adjusted the fmic a little bit more and now back together.
Air con wasn't working which was a pita when it was 35 degrees and I spent a lot last year on a new compressor etc. Luckily using the climate control codes the pressure switch wasn't shutting. New one from gsf for £25 which was pretty reasonable and half hour later job done.
Checked over manifold to turbo bolts too as I had a progressively worse blow. Luckily found one of the cap head bolts had worked loose so sorted this out.
Adjusted the bi-xenon headlights a bit too as they were a little low and I don't think I've put what an amazing upgrade they are.
Went to goodwood festival of speed a few weeks back as well. 1st time I've been and definitely not the last!!!
