G28 location on 3.0 ASN?

fourcircle

fourcircle

nj
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I need to change my speed sensor and of course, the 3.0 ASN isn't anywhere near as simple as the 4 cylinder engines. Am I surprised? No, I am not. So anyway, I have trawled ASN, Audizine, A4mods and all other forums I can think of. All I can find are 4 cylinder guides and the occasional mention that someone has taken their 3.0 to a garage to get the speed sensor done.
Well, that sucks hairy balls and I doubt it's impossible to do at home. I've traced the cable to the back of the engine, where it seems to disappear under the inlet manifold. If anyone has any clues on doing this job can you let me know?
cheers
Nj
 
fourcircle said:
I need to change my speed sensor and of course, the 3.0 ASN isn't anywhere near as simple as the 4 cylinder engines. Am I surprised? No, I am not. So anyway, I have trawled ASN, Audizine, A4mods and all other forums I can think of. All I can find are 4 cylinder guides and the occasional mention that someone has taken their 3.0 to a garage to get the speed sensor done.
Well, that sucks hairy balls and I doubt it's impossible to do at home. I've traced the cable to the back of the engine, where it seems to disappear under the inlet manifold. If anyone has any clues on doing this job can you let me know?
cheers
Nj
Click to expand...

This should help you out, looks easier than the four cylinders,
 
This one could be a winner?
I would definitely have dropped the bolt, HAH!
 
QuattroCalum said:
This should help you out, looks easier than the four cylinders,
Click to expand...

that's the same video I have above mate, but I'm not convinced my sensor is in the same location. Or... maybe it is and I just can't trace the cable (this also means my cable is too short so I'll need to cut and splice the old one. I thought I ordered the correct Bosch part but this wouldn't be the first time this has happened. I've had similar issues with lambda sensors, using what is officially the correct Bosch part. doh!
 
fourcircle said:
that's the same video I have above mate, but I'm not convinced my sensor is in the same location. Or... maybe it is and I just can't trace the cable (this also means my cable is too short so I'll need to cut and splice the old one. I thought I ordered the correct Bosch part but this wouldn't be the first time this has happened. I've had similar issues with lambda sensors, using what is officially the correct Bosch part. doh!
Click to expand...

Look at my last post.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
QuattroCalum said:
This one could be a winner?
I would definitely have dropped the bolt, HAH!
Click to expand...

This one is definitely different. The sensor there doesn't have a cable and since it's a totally different engine I imagine it would be just too simple to expect it to be the same :D
I'm going to use the polish video above, get under the car again tomorrow and see if perhaps my senor is in the same place as the latino dude also says. I can solder and heat shrink the cable if I need to extend it.
I'll report back on how it goes
 
fourcircle said:
This one is definitely different. The sensor there doesn't have a cable and since it's a totally different engine I imagine it would be just too simple to expect it to be the same :D
I'm going to use the polish video above, get under the car again tomorrow and see if perhaps my senor is in the same place as the latino dude also says. I can solder and heat shrink the cable if I need to extend it.
I'll report back on how it goes
Click to expand...

It will be on the side of the block just in front of the gearbox as it takes a reading off the flywheel. I'll see if I can find anything else for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
thanks mate. I'll poke around and hopefully it won't be too bad after all :)
 
Yep, that's the same link from my second post above :) There's very little chance of seeing anything from above so I'm going to try again with the car in open daylight tomorrow morning. I suspect the cable is really hard to trace if it goes through a heat shield. ****** 3.0 engine doesn't leave much space around the edges! :D
 
fourcircle said:
Yep, that's the same link from my second post above :) There's very little chance of seeing anything from above so I'm going to try again with the car in open daylight tomorrow morning. I suspect the cable is really hard to trace if it goes through a heat shield. ****** 3.0 engine doesn't leave much space around the edges! :D
Click to expand...

Jack it up and get the passenger side wheel off and the driveshaft heat shield and I'm sure you'll be able to see it, it's certainly in that vicinity, back of the block and in front of the gearbox bellhousing.
 
Well f*cking f*ckitty f*cksticks.
First - I should have updated this thread last year. If I recall correctly I was off straight away on a trip with my family and completely forgot. It's pretty much as the Polish and Latino dudes' videos show, which means without a pit or a 2 post lift it's a pain in the t1ts but doable.

Well this morning I was doing about 60mph, overtook a car and as I overtook (just doing about 75mph in 4th) the power went. As I pulled in, in front of the other car, I was still cruising at about 70mph but there was no more power there. The oil light flashed for a second, then the EPC light came on and the car drove reasonably well, but definitely not properly. I got to my wife's work and stupidy turned off the engine while I helped her inside with a couple of things. When I came back out the engine turned over but wouldn't start. I left it half an hour and tried again, but nada. So I've had to leave it there for now. Oh yeah, I had a small code reader with me and scanned it. I'm getting 16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal. So it has to be the speed sensor again. It's not a moving part though, so I'm baffled as to why it would fail in less than a year. I've emailed the supplier in Germany but I can't wait a week for another one, so I'll need to find one locally and bend over as they shaft me some silly amount of money (sigh).
 
Well damn, that wasn't pretty. First of all, I had to do the work in a wet, icy car park, which wasn't ideal. And when I got the old sensor out, it's been molested! the end has been ripped right off or it has exploded or something. I've fitted the new one, and now I hear a rhythmic rubbing sound, which gets worse/louder when I push the clutch in.
IMG 5590
 
For future reference, for anyone else who needs to tackle this job, you don't need to take the shield off from above the driveshaft. If you take off the front left wheel and get down low, you will just be able to see the sensor to the front of the driveshaft and up a bit. If you're underneath you don't actually need to take the wheel off though. You can get your hand up to the sensor ok. If you don't have the luxury of lifting the car right up on a garage lift, and you're using axle stands or ramps, you might find it easiest to lie with your legs out the front of the car so you can look up, seeing the edge of the bell-housing to your right. To see the sensor properly I ended up in this position, with my head kind of in the wheel well (and legs out the front). You should be able to see the sensor like that. You need to lift up the expansion tank to get to the plug of the cable by the way, as per the Polish guy's video.

I had a 10mm bolt, rather than an allen head bolt by the way. The photo below shows my view as described. You can see the CV boot at the end of the driveshaft to the top. The red arrow is pointing to a 10mm socket that I placed on the single bolt holding the sensor in, otherwise it wouldn't be visible in the photo. The sensor you can see dangling is my new sensor by the way.
IMG 5588 copy
 
fourcircle said:
For future reference, for anyone else who needs to tackle this job, you don't need to take the shield off from above the driveshaft. If you take off the front left wheel and get down low, you will just be able to see the sensor to the front of the driveshaft and up a bit. If you're underneath you don't actually need to take the wheel off though. You can get your hand up to the sensor ok. If you don't have the luxury of lifting the car right up on a garage lift, and you're using axle stands or ramps, you might find it easiest to lie with your legs out the front of the car so you can look up, seeing the edge of the bell-housing to your right. To see the sensor properly I ended up in this position, with my head kind of in the wheel well (and legs out the front). You should be able to see the sensor like that. You need to lift up the expansion tank to get to the plug of the cable by the way, as per the Polish guy's video.

I had a 10mm bolt, rather than an allen head bolt by the way. The photo below shows my view as described. You can see the CV boot at the end of the driveshaft to the top. The red arrow is pointing to a 10mm socket that I placed on the single bolt holding the sensor in, otherwise it wouldn't be visible in the photo. The sensor you can see dangling is my new sensor by the way.
View attachment 153427
Click to expand...
Seems like you have a clearance issue, to me it sounds and looks like it's hitting the flywheel.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
yeah, after lifting it up and listening with my VAG specialist friend we reached the same conclusion. ahhh f*ck.
So now I need to find a flywheel and fork out for 4 to 6 hours of work to fit it. I don't see this as a job I can do on axle stands, but i'm going to look into it anyway.
 
fourcircle said:
yeah, after lifting it up and listening with my VAG specialist friend we reached the same conclusion. ahhh f*ck.
So now I need to find a flywheel and fork out for 4 to 6 hours of work to fit it. I don't see this as a job I can do on axle stands, but i'm going to look into it anyway.
Click to expand...
You can do it on axle stands as long as you get it high enough. A good jack for lifting the gearbox back up is essential.
I've changed clutches twice by myself on a 1.8 t Quattro.
The hardest part is getting the gearbox back on at the correct angle, another pair of hands would have made this easier though.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks mate. Is it a case of dropping the whole gearbox out to change the clutch/flywheel, then lift it back up again? I've only dropped a whole engine and gearbox, then fitted the whole lot to another car (an S2) but I've never changed a clutch or flywheel. As much as I could do without the extra cost (i'm between jobs right now) I wonder if I should do the clutch at the same time?
Also, any suggestions on where to buy the flywheel from? I saw a post of yours from last year where you mentioned that you tried a single-mass flywheel but it was crap?
 
fourcircle said:
Thanks mate. Is it a case of dropping the whole gearbox out to change the clutch/flywheel, then lift it back up again? I've only dropped a whole engine and gearbox, then fitted the whole lot to another car (an S2) but I've never changed a clutch or flywheel. As much as I could do without the extra cost (i'm between jobs right now) I wonder if I should do the clutch at the same time?
Also, any suggestions on where to buy the flywheel from? I saw a post of yours from last year where you mentioned that you tried a single-mass flywheel but it was ****?
Click to expand...

Essentially it's remove
driveshaft heat shields
drive shafts at the drive flange (torx bolts)
disconnect slave cylinder and secure it, up and out of the way
disconnect gearbox linkage
downpipe x2 (V6)
disconnect and drop Propshaft (if it's Quattro)
drop exhaust centre section
remove starter motor, check you diconnected the battery live first.
support the gearbox
all gearbox to block bolts, take note where the starter motor live feed secures to and it's route.
That should be it unless I've forgotten something (probably)
But in reality it's not that hard just time consuming.

The DMR single mass conversion came with a quality clutch plate and cover BUT, the problem I thought was the flywheel wasn't. I later found I had a broken plastic pipe on the turbo inlet pipe, meaning the inlet was drawing air and running lean. Thinking about it now the dual mass flywheel probably masked the problem. I would try one again but probably go for Valeo to be on the safe side, they are around £270 for a 1.8t. Not sure how much a 3.0 litre one would be though.
 
thanks for taking the time to list all of that, I really appreciate it,
My exhaust might be a pain in the *** since it's a Milltek with the centre sections welded to the rear sections. Plus, I had my main cats replaced with a pair of S8 cats I was given for free. The downpipes are a f*cking nightmare on the 3.0Q and S4 normally, so I imagine this is going to end up being trouble.
I'll see what I can find in terms of dual and single mass flywheels. I've ploughed a lot of time and money into this car, but there's a limit to how much I want to spend on a car that's 16.5 years old (one of the early B6s).
 
fourcircle said:
thanks for taking the time to list all of that, I really appreciate it,
My exhaust might be a pain in the *** since it's a Milltek with the centre sections welded to the rear sections. Plus, I had my main cats replaced with a pair of S8 cats I was given for free. The downpipes are a f*cking nightmare on the 3.0Q and S4 normally, so I imagine this is going to end up being trouble.
I'll see what I can find in terms of dual and single mass flywheels. I've ploughed a lot of time and money into this car, but there's a limit to how much I want to spend on a car that's 16.5 years old (one of the early B6s).
Click to expand...
No problem, is yours six speed?


Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
yep, it's a 6 speed.
Dual mass flywheel is looking like £400 ish. aghhhh!!!!!!!!!
 
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