Fitting an AndyMac AMSS setup (sub, amp to Bose headunit).

MPH said:
So you did have to move the central locking pump! Looking good

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yes as you can see i had to remove the cover and the cable tie, does tuck down in the corner ok though.
 
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MPH said:
Sub piston movement o.k?

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Sub piston? You mean cone movement? If so yes im surprised how good it is. Took a few hours to bed in the sub, was very tight out of the box, but some tuning etc and it's been very good.
As with others i put the amp in the near side rear passenger cover left the polystyrene block in there.
 
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mephisto said:
Sub piston? You mean cone movement? If so yes im surprised how good it is. Took a few hours to bed in the sub, was very tight out of the box, but some tuning etc and it's been very good.
As with others i put the amp in the near side rear passenger cover left the polystyrene block in there.
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Yes that is what I meant cone movement clearance from body panel thanks.

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MPH said:
Yes that is what I meant cone movement clearance from body panel thanks.

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Welcome yes with cover fitted back over the front it's all good. Will snap a few more pics shortly. But for sure it's a real improvement over the standard Bose sub, not sure how it compares to the AMSS, for sure AMSS design looks better and fits bit better too giving more space for original cover on the central lock pump (what else would you expect from a man of such calibre).
 
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mephisto said:
Welcome yes with cover fitted back over the front it's all good. Will snap a few more pics shortly. But for sure it's a real improvement over the standard Bose sub, not sure how it compares to the AMSS, for sure AMSS design looks better and fits bit better too giving more space for original cover on the central lock pump (what else would you expect from a man of such calibre).
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Mny thanks for your reply I look for to seeing your images soon all the best Mark.

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So I have re-wrapped the amp! Laid down plenty of acoustic matting after removing most of the old stuff was in poor condition but it has done well for a car that's approaching 24 years old delivery date October 1997! Installed the little monster JL 8W3 (250rms) into its enclosure with stainless cap heads with hex drive inserts and then bolted firmly to the old sub mounts with some steel 90-degree angles its rock-solid so I am pleased about that! Bit of trial and error to get the central locking pump to fit nicely but all done now! Purchased some JL C1 650 x for the rear door cards! Fronts were already done some time ago with some alpines
Alpine 5 Channel
Basser Box
Sound Mat
Sound Mat 2
Sound Mat 3
Test Fit
Installed
Open
Closed
C1 650x Front
C1 650x Rear
! Tomorrow will be laying cables locating the 5 channel alpine v12 etc, the connection I purchased for the head unit was incorrect so need to rethink that one well that's the story so far... oh yes also ordered the JL mesh cover just in case because they are not cheap!!!
 
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You’ve fitted that in really well. The cone lines up nicely with the cover grille too. It’s noticeably bigger than mine (oooh errrr).
The mesh grille, is that to protect the subwoofer cone? Will it interfere with the plastic carpeted release cover?
 
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s3mad_dude said:
You’ve fitted that in really well. The cone lines up nicely with the cover grille too. It’s noticeably bigger than mine (oooh errrr).
The mesh grille, is that to protect the subwoofer cone? Will it interfere with the plastic carpeted release cover?
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Thanks did my best! the mesh is just an insert that pushes onto the driver, buy my calculations it should fit o.k may be tight towards the bottom but no problem towards the top. The only one problem is it is going to be a right pain in the *** to change a bulb as the box will need removing but I am too far in now financially to reverse where I am at so far.

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Great job! I personally have C2 series all around 650x in the rear and 525 kit in the front with a rockford 4 ch amp would recommend! Have some issues with front speakers/door cards though as they produce alot of mid bass and crates alot of rattle :/, will try MDF spacers to see if it helps but I doubt it.
 
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Farmor00 said:
Great job! I personally have C2 series all around 650x in the rear and 525 kit in the front with a rockford 4 ch amp would recommend! Have some issues with front speakers/door cards though as they produce alot of mid bass and crates alot of rattle :/, will try MDF spacers to see if it helps but I doubt it.
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@Farmor00 Did you keep your original head unit? How did you secure the rear JLs did you use ring adapters?

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MPH said:
@Farmor00 Did you keep your original head unit? How did you secure the rear JLs did you use ring adapters?

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Yeah I used plastic adapters there are plenty on amazon and car audio shops(you will need adapters for the rear speakers aswell). I was thinking if you use universal MDF adapters instead and drill your owns holes maybe the rattle wont be that bad. I have a Sony BT stereo. All original CD, Stereo, speakers, amp, sub etc is all gone was a non working Bose system when I bought the car(dead stock stereo/headunit). In other words I've redone everything including wiring also used silent coat dynomat throughout the car and also have a mono amp for the sub and the 4 ch amp for the speakers one is located on each side behind the rear passenger covers like in Andymacs instructions. I only have pictures of the Sub install but its better then nothing.
 

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Farmor00 said:
Yeah I used plastic adapters there are plenty on amazon and car audio shops(you will need adapters for the rear speakers aswell). I was thinking if you use universal MDF adapters instead and drill your owns holes maybe the rattle wont be that bad. I have a Sony BT stereo. All original CD, Stereo, speakers, amp, sub etc is all gone was a non working Bose system when I bought the car(dead stock stereo/headunit). In other words I've redone everything including wiring also used silent coat dynomat throughout the car and also have a mono amp for the sub and the 4 ch amp for the speakers one is located on each side behind the rear passenger covers like in Andymacs instructions. I only have pictures of the Sub install but its better then nothing.
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Looking good I have dremmeled out the rear speaker mounts and the jls now fit made up some backing plates from the original speakers and the jl plates to keep them in place.

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MPH said:
Looking good I have dremmeled out the rear speaker mounts and the jls now fit made up some backing plates from the original speakers and the jl plates to keep them in place.

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Most of the wiring done today ready for the amp sealed and secured the rear JLs I just need some advice on the adapter as I am keeping the OEM head unit purchased a 5 channel mini iso but not the right one the sub connector goes to the remote pin I have wired in 1 stinger 4 channel lead and one custom made van damme sub lead split at the amp...I know I could wire the rears and sub from the red plug from the original tup sub via @AndyMac pdf tup sub now in the bin any additional information would be appreciated thanks in advance Mark
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Wiring complete front speakers was a bit of a pain, to say the least, getting through the rubber boots they go in down and across ended up completely dismantling the passenger side one lower dash removal both sides but now completed installed banana plugs x 4 from connects2! 2.5mm sound mat all-around front and rear panels! making up a quality adaptor and leads 50cm long for the concert head unit so they can pop out to the left-hand side rather than be squashed up behind it not much room in there anyway with the connects2 Bluetooth media streamer hands-free, as the various ones out there seem somewhat flimsy I have purchased a couple already! looking forward to firing it up amp to stay temporarily in the boot while I decide on my sound configuration speakers etc then to be installed on the left-hand or right-hand side rear panel as space is somewhat tight due to the hefty
20210818 134309
20210820 144720
alpine amp...
 
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Update I have purchased two other amps JBL GTO 755.6 AMP & ALPINE MRV-1507 V12 AMP both old skool the latter being an absolute monster and also a set of JL AUDIO C3 525,s convertible components for the front sounds great at the moment even with the cheap alpine 1350S set up tweeters are very bright! Looking for a good place to stash the JL crossovers in the front to access the mid and high range adjustments! Need to run more wires for the crossovers or put them in the doors somewhere?
 
MPH said:
Update I have purchased two other amps JBL GTO 755.6 AMP & ALPINE MRV-1507 V12 AMP both old skool the latter being an absolute monster and also a set of JL AUDIO C3 525,s convertible components for the front sounds great at the moment even with the cheap alpine 1350S set up tweeters are very bright! Looking for a good place to stash the JL crossovers in the front to access the mid and high range adjustments! Need to run more wires for the crossovers or put them in the doors somewhere?
Click to expand...
I put mine below the carpet on passenger side, for drivers side behind the panel below the steering wheel But anything works. Id say Putting them in the Doors is more optimal though as You get more neat cable management as they need to be longer when you open the door and vice versa otherwise.
 
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MPH said:
Various options prices brands available! JL AUDIO C3 525s about £350 for the component set.

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I’ve got the original set up not sure how much they are worth
 
Please can someone send me the PDF guide? I just bought a 2000 A3 8L and it has the 6cd changer and sub, I want to try and upgrade the audi.

Cheers :)
 
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MPH said:
What exactly are you after?

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I don't know what I don't know yet! I want to either buy/build the sub enclosure to replace the tuppaware, I need to replace the stock head unit, door speakers and find some way of adding an amp. So as much information as possible as I can gather is what im going for at the moment.
 
notafordfocus said:
I don't know what I don't know yet! I want to either buy/build the sub enclosure to replace the tuppaware, I need to replace the stock head unit, door speakers and find some way of adding an amp. So as much information as possible as I can gather is what im going for at the moment.
Click to expand...
I kept the stock head unit love the OEM look and amped it up over 5 channels via an alpine v12 amp! removed the plastic sub in favour of the basser box and 8 inch Jl audio sub replaced stock speakers and all wiring with jls all round! sounds fantastic have a look though the thread I will be happy to help you out where needed the only pdfs I have are about the andymac amss front and rear speaker removal etc.

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notafordfocus said:
I don't know what I don't know yet! I want to either buy/build the sub enclosure to replace the tuppaware, I need to replace the stock head unit, door speakers and find some way of adding an amp. So as much information as possible as I can gather is what im going for at the moment.
Click to expand...
Get basserbox But keep in mind You cant keep cd changer with this box. Andymacs Will allow cd changer to fit But hard to find Since he passed away sadly quite some time ago.
 
MPH said:
I kept the stock head unit love the OEM look and amped it up over 5 channels via an alpine v12 amp! removed the plastic sub in favour of the basser box and 8 inch Jl audio sub replaced stock speakers and all wiring with jls all round! sounds fantastic have a look though the thread I will be happy to help you out where needed the only pdfs I have are about the andymac amss front and rear speaker removal etc.

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Yeah I'd like to keep the stock look if I can, but the head unit needs to be replaced I think, the screen doesnt work and the volume is broken so its barely usable sadly. Im assuming I can just add another input to the amp to get bluetooth connectivity? If I can get bluetooth and retain the oem look ill be buzzing.

I'll try and and find your thread that sounds exactly like what i want to do! Where abouts are you based?
 
Farmor00 said:
Get basserbox But keep in mind You cant keep cd changer with this box. Andymacs Will allow cd changer to fit But hard to find Since he passed away sadly quite some time ago.
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Ok thanks, going to look into this. I'm not fussed for the changer, im going to try and find a way of getting bluetooth audio into the system.
 
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notafordfocus said:
Yeah I'd like to keep the stock look if I can, but the head unit needs to be replaced I think, the screen doesnt work and the volume is broken so its barely usable sadly. Im assuming I can just add another input to the amp to get bluetooth connectivity? If I can get bluetooth and retain the oem look ill be buzzing.

I'll try and and find your thread that sounds exactly like what i want to do! Where abouts are you based?
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Based in London and Norfolk also have it all running on Bluetooth connects2

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Farmor00 said:
Get basserbox But keep in mind You cant keep cd changer with this box. Andymacs Will allow cd changer to fit But hard to find Since he passed away sadly quite some time ago.
Click to expand...
Alright mate, do you have a link to the basserbox? I've been googling around and looking ebay/amazon but can't find it.
 
notafordfocus said:
Alright mate, do you have a link to the basserbox? I've been googling around and looking ebay/amazon but can't find it.
Click to expand...
www.ebay.co.uk

Audi A3 Mk1 8L Custom Fit MDF 8" Sub Box Subwoofer Enclosure Bass | eBay

•Fits: Audi A3 hatchback Mk1. Custom made subwoofer enclosure made using very high quality MDF, laser cut and carpeted for a perfect OEM like quality fit. Custom fit car subwoofer box. •Subwoofer Size: 8" (200mm).
www.ebay.co.uk

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Farmor00 said:
Great job! I personally have C2 series all around 650x in the rear and 525 kit in the front with a rockford 4 ch amp would recommend! Have some issues with front speakers/door cards though as they produce alot of mid bass and crates alot of rattle :/, will try MDF spacers to see if it helps but I doubt it.
Click to expand...
@Farmor00 quick question did your C2,s fit behind the door card or did you surface mount them I have a set of C3,s similar dimensions to the C2,s thanks in advance for you reply all the best Mark

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MPH said:
@Farmor00 quick question did your C2,s fit behind the door card or did you surface mount them I have a set of C3,s similar dimensions to the C2,s thanks in advance for you reply all the best Mark

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Yeah i only used ring adapters and shorter screws and it all fit.
 
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Farmor00 said:
Yeah i only used ring adapters and shorter screws and it all fit.
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Good news the C3 525s also fit with some modification to the plastic rings! tweeters larger than the alpine ones but also fit! I am going to fit some modified 12mm mdf rings at a later date to complete the installation.

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MPH said:
Good news the C3 525s also fit with some modification to the plastic rings! tweeters larger than the alpine ones but also fit! I am going to fit some modified 12mm mdf rings at a later date to complete the installation.

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take some pictures of MDF install and tell me the result. if it lowers rattle ill definitely follow your lead!
 
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