Fitting an AndyMac AMSS setup (sub, amp to Bose headunit).

[s3mad_dude]

Hi everyone,

I think I’ve finally plucked up the courage to actually get on and fit this kit. I’m pretty decent with a spanner and I’ve fitted head units before (back in the day) but never a setup with an amp/sub connecting into a factory install before - so please forgive my ignorance here! My car is a bog standard Bose setup with Audi Chorus single DIN cassette head unit with 6CD changer in boot. It’s never been touched in its life so I’m hoping that in order to install the AMSS sub and amp properly, I have all the correct components/cables/adapters and connectors before I begin dismantling.

I have the following:
1 x AMSS with JL Audio sub (6w3v3 model)
1 x Alpine MRV-T500 amp (good for standard headunits and the existing Bose speakers - 2 channel bridged into 4Ohm)
1 x Autoleads PC9-408 adapter (allows me to connect amp to headunit with RCA leads if I’m not mistaken).
1 x variety of swanky heavy cables (pictured)

I’m trying to effectively replace the tupperware Bose sub and get some decent punchy bass out of my existing speaker setup. I have the excellent instructions by the late Andy Mac to follow but before I start - have I got everything? I’ll be honest some of the harness pinouts don’t mean much to me so, again, if anyone can dumb that down a little for me it would be appreciated.

Is there anything glaringly obvious that I’m missing?

Any advice you can give me regarding the connecting and setting up of the amp to the headunit would be super appreciated. I’ve read countless threads and posts about the AMSS (including <tuffty/>‘s thread). Andy’s instructions refer to a special harness he has made but I think the Autoleads adapter I referred to earlier achieves the same thing, right?

Anyway - tips and advice would be appreciated if you can assist. I’ll post updates of how I get on. Has anyone got an electrical diagram of the AMSS setup I could follow?

Here is a pic of the bits (with cables) I’ve collected over the years that is ready to fit:

 

[MPH]

Hi everyone,

I think I’ve finally plucked up the courage to actually get on and fit this kit. I’m pretty decent with a spanner and I’ve fitted head units before (back in the day) but never a setup with an amp/sub connecting into a factory install before. My car is a bog standard Bose setup. It’s never been touched in its life so I’m hoping that in order to install the AMSS sub and amp properly, I have all the correct components before I begin dismantling.

I have the following:
1 x AMSS with JL Audio sub (6w3v3 model)
1 x Alpine MRV-T500 amp (good for standard headunits and the existing Bose speakers)
1 x Autoleads PC9-408 adapter (allows me to connect amp to headunit with RCA leads if I’m not mistaken).
1 x variety of swanky heavy cables (pictured)

I’m trying to effectively replace the tupperware Bose sub and get some decent punchy bass out of my existing speaker setup. I have the excellent instructions by the late Andy Mac to follow but before I start - have I got everything? I’ll be honest some of the harness pinouts don’t mean much to me so, again, if anyone can dumb that down a little for me it would be appreciated.

Is there anything glaringly obvious that I’m missing?

Any advice you can give me regarding the connecting and setting up of the amp to the headunit would be super appreciated. I’ve read countless threads and posts about the AMSS (including <tuffty/>‘s thread). Andy’s instructions refer to a special harness he has made but I think the Autoleads adapter I referred to earlier achieves the same thing, right?

Anyway - tips and advice would be appreciated if you can assist. I’ll post updates of how I get on. Has anyone got an electrical diagram of the AMSS setup I could follow?

Here is a pic of the bits I’ve collected over the years that is ready to fit:

Do you have the andymac PDF for the installation if not I have a copy.

Sent from Syknet Global Defence Network

 

[s3mad_dude]

Yes I do thanks. I’m fine with the physical fitting of the kit, just more the cable set-up from amp to harness to headunit that I don’t really understand.

EDIT: Thanks so much @MPH for the PDFs. The AMSS version must have been updated as there is a lot more info contained. Thanks also for the radio PDF guide too - much appreciated! Love this forum!

 

[confusionhunter]

Good to see andymacs work lives on. I has an A3 set up it was awesome and I've always wanted to replicate his and wellhouse0 's A4 B5 8 inch JL sub set up. I'll get round to it soon I think.....
s3mad_dude How did you get on with the fitting?

 

[s3mad_dude]

I’m getting my S3 out of storage next week, so I’ll begin to do the work in April. I’ll take some photos as I do it and I’ll probably make a small post here afterwards explaining what I did and how everything compares to the original Bose equipment.

 

[s3mad_dude]

Hi everyone, I’m currently installing the AMSS and amp as per the awesome guide that the late Andy Mac wrote. So far I’m doing quite well but I have a few questions that I’d like to ask and how best to proceed. Whilst I’m decent with a spanner etc, I’ve never installed a subwoofer or amp before. In the past it’s just been new speakers and head units. Anyway, here are a couple of issues I face as I am keeping my door speakers, and Audi Chorus headunit:

1. The original loom and wiring plug that connected into the old Bose subwoofer has 7 pinouts but the connector block is a weird shape and I don’t know if it’s possible to find an empty female equivalent block to attach to my home-made harness. Am I looking for a needle in a haystack or a unicorn by trying to source this piece? I’d like my car to be original and would like to be able to revert the installation (if required in future) rather than just cut the plug off and solder the cables together.

2. Secondly, I have got some blades to solder onto my home-made harness. But the blades I've got only fit into the four outer holes of the Bose loom plug, and not the middle holes. I’ll try and source some smaller blades but again, am I wasting my time trying to plug directly into this connector? Is there a better method of doing so for what I’m trying to achieve?

Other than that, things are progressing well. The sub enclosure brackets aren’t much good to me as my vehicle doesn’t have the mounting points as per the instruction guide. There must have been tweeks to the Bose sub over the years as mine is revision H (2003 MY vehicle), but I’ll make up some nice quality brackets. I’m enjoying the work so far but I’ll be honest...it’s not the warmest of weather to be doing this in!

Thanks for any advice you’re able to provide.

 

[MPH]

Hi everyone, I’m currently installing the AMSS and amp as per the awesome guide that the late Andy Mac wrote. So far I’m doing quite well but I have a few questions that I’d like to ask and how best to proceed. Whilst I’m decent with a spanner etc, I’ve never installed a subwoofer or amp before. In the past it’s just been new speakers and head units. Anyway, here are a couple of issues I face as I am keeping my door speakers, and Audi Chorus headunit:

1. The original loom and wiring plug that connected into the old Bose subwoofer has 7 pinouts but the connector block is a weird shape and I don’t know if it’s possible to find an empty female equivalent block to attach to my home-made harness. Am I looking for a needle in a haystack or a unicorn by trying to source this piece? I’d like my car to be original and would like to be able to revert the installation (if required in future) rather than just cut the plug off and solder the cables together.

2. Secondly, I have got some blades to solder onto my home-made harness. But the blades I've got only fit into the four outer holes of the Bose loom plug, and not the middle holes. I’ll try and source some smaller blades but again, am I wasting my time trying to plug directly into this connector? Is there a better method of doing so for what I’m trying to achieve?

Other than that, things are progressing well. The sub enclosure brackets aren’t much good to me as my vehicle doesn’t have the mounting points as per the instruction guide. There must have been tweeks to the Bose sub over the years as mine is revision H (2003 MY vehicle), but I’ll make up some nice quality brackets. I’m enjoying the work so far but I’ll be honest...it’s not the warmest of weather to be doing this in!

Thanks for any advice you’re able to provide.

Did i send you the radio wiring diagrams?

Sent from Syknet Global Defence Network

 

[s3mad_dude]

Yes you did! Thanks for that matey

 

[s3mad_dude]

Hi everyone, today I finished the installation of the AMSS into the car. It’s taken me about 4 days on and off doing bits here and there but I’m really happy with the outcome. The instructions provided by the late Andy Mac are very informative. I really didn’t think I’d be able to achieve this but if you take your time to understand what you’re doing it’s not too daunting. I feel I have a much better understanding of car audio now and I really enjoyed learning and doing this fit.

I started off by running an 8AWG power cable from the fuse box on top of the battery. It’s protected by a 50amp fuse. I removed the airbox and loosened the strut brace so that I could remove the plastic trunking protecting the car’s wiring loom. I neatly threaded my power cable through the trunking and into the area where the pollen filter resides. There is a rubber grommet built into the firewall which you can gently pierce and slide the cable through. Once the cable was cut, measured and threaded through I applied a small blob of clear silicone over the grommet just to prevent any water ingress. Please excuse the dusty/dirty engine bay - that’ll be my next job! An engine detail.

From inside the car I removed the glovebox, and using a coat hanger retrieved the end of the power cable and pulled it through. After removing the lower door sill trim, I was able to route the cable neatly within the passenger sill and into the space where the rear door card sits.

Removing the rear door card was a little daunting but if you take your time it’s not difficult. I used some plastic trim removal tools to help lever the door card off. Once the door card became free from the body, a few of the mounting lugs broke free. From the factory these are just glued on to the rear of the door card. I don’t know if they’re designed to break away so cleanly or if it’s because the glue is approaching twenty years old now, but five out of the twelve or so broke off and remained attached to the car. I removed these and later when I refitted the door card, post AMSS installation, I glued the lugs back onto the rear of the door card with gorilla glue (24hrs cure time) and the door card popped back on easily and securely. With the rear door card and the insulating polystyrene block removed there is a surprising amount of space between the outer skin of the car and the interior.

Around to the rear of the car it was a case of removing the lower boot trim (which holds the warning triangle) and three of the spring loaded cargo net clips. Removal of the carpeted surround hiding the current plastic Bose sub and CD auto-changer was straight forward.

It was then a case of removing the old equipment, but retaining the CD changer as I love a good quality compact disc still. The AMSS locates well into its new home but in order to get the sub as low as possible you might need to remove the central locking pump. Also, in order to get the AMSS as far into the space as possible you’ll need to remove the alarm control module and re-locate it. All of this is detailed in the excellent PDF guide. I added a second cable tie around the central locking pump to stop the foam jacket from interfering with the movement of the speaker cone.

I added some aluminium backed Roadkill speaker insulation to stick to any exposed bare panels around the rear of the new enclosure and I made sure everything was securely attached (other car wiring cables etc). I made some brackets out of 2mm thick galvanised steel. These attach to the existing threads (attached to the car body) that originally held in the old sub and the CD changer cradle. The cradle is no longer required so it was separated from the CD changer before refitting. It’s a very tight fit getting the changer back in. I applied the same Roadkill speaker dampening between the sub enclosure and CD changer unit, as well as some thicker insulation (10mm) around both sides and rear. I haven’t experienced any CD skipping yet so I must have done a decent enough job!

I wanted to retain the factory Audi Chorus headunit with Bose speakers and Bose amp. The speakers are actually alright. They’re not amazing but they’re not rubbish and certainly loud enough for me! In order to retain factory functionality with remote-on etc.
I needed to make a wiring harness that would take the signals from the plug socket that went into the back of the old Bose sub and redirect the feeds I needed to the new amplifier. Luckily the original Bose system has a remote power-on wire so I didn’t have to run an extra cable. Again, I can’t thank Andy enough for the pin out diagram. I managed to source an unused second hand Bose sub that I could steal the female wiring plug and cables from so that I didn’t have to cannibalise my original. This meant I could simply click-in my new harness to the existing car wiring loom meaning I have a fully reversible set-up should I ever decide to remove the AMSS. Also I didn’t fancy butchering the car’s wiring if it could be avoided....so I opted for this solution. As luck would have it, my 20 year old soldering iron gave up the ghost after soldering the first wire, so I had to get a new one - typical! The five wires used from the car’s Bose wiring was left/right audio, left/right shield, and remote-on. The remote-on is required so that when the car is turned off, a single press of the power button on the headunit will turn on the radio with the amp so you can listen to music with the sub operating, otherwise it would only run when the accessories are turned on. This is how the original factory set-up worked and I wanted to retain that. This was my finished harness.

I was lucky enough to source a second hand Alpine V12 amplifier (model: MRV-T500) on Facebook marketplace several years ago. The guy selling it also asked if I wanted all the cables attached to it. I bit his arm off as he had used really good quality cables that were made in Germany. I installed the amp into the door void. I applied thick 10mm sound deadening material to the back side of the outer door skin (being careful not to obstruct the amp cooling vents) . The amp wedged itself into the sponge really nicely along the bottom edge and a single nut, washer and bolt attach the amp to the car frame.
It’s surprisingly sturdy.

I had to set up the amp prior to installing it within the void. After trying various settings, what I found worked best for me was to keep the phase at 0 degrees, using a bridged 1+2 connection, with gain set to a little over 0.5v, Low pass frequency at about 140Hz. The results were very good (despite the rear left missing speaker as it was still connected to the removed door card). The picture below shows the orientation that worked for my amp as it was quite small but doesn’t show the sound deadening I installed on the rear of the quarter panel.

The finished result is really impressive. It’s a completely stealth install and you wouldn’t know unless you looked in the boot and removed the cover panel (or if you heard it of course )

Peek-a-boo! Now you see me:

Now you don’t see me:

You wouldn’t know there was an amp and a load of extra cabling routed through the interior at all. I didn’t break any panels or clips anywhere (but it did take me about four days remember?!)

Ahhh working just like it came from the factory or “OEM+” as <tuffty/> likes to call it!

Overall I’m extremely happy with the outcome. I wish I had done it back in 2010 when the car was my daily driver!

 

[Sandra]

@s3mad_dude well done on the installation. Very tidy job. Enjoy.

 

[tcg]

Top job mate quality write up as well

 

[<tuffty/>]

Ahhh working just like it came from the factory or “OEM+” as <tuffty/> likes to call it!

lolz

<tuffty/>

 

[MPH]

Hi everyone, today I finished the installation of the AMSS into the car. It’s taken me about 4 days on and off doing bits here and there but I’m really happy with the outcome. The instructions provided by the late Andy Mac are very informative. I really didn’t think I’d be able to achieve this but if you take your time to understand what you’re doing it’s not too daunting. I feel I have a much better understanding of car audio now and I really enjoyed learning and doing this fit.

I started off by running an 8AWG power cable from the fuse box on top of the battery. It’s protected by a 50amp fuse. I removed the airbox and loosened the strut brace so that I could remove the plastic trunking protecting the car’s wiring loom. I neatly threaded my power cable through the trunking and into the area where the pollen filter resides. There is a rubber grommet built into the firewall which you can gently pierce and slide the cable through. Once the cable was cut, measured and threaded through I applied a small blob of clear silicone over the grommet just to prevent any water ingress. Please excuse the dusty/dirty engine bay - that’ll be my next job! An engine detail.

From inside the car I removed the glovebox, and using a coat hanger retrieved the end of the power cable and pulled it through. After removing the lower door sill trim, I was able to route the cable neatly within the passenger sill and into the space where the rear door card sits.

Removing the rear door card was a little daunting but if you take your time it’s not difficult. I used some plastic trim removal tools to help lever the door card off. Once the door card became free from the body, a few of the mounting lugs broke free. From the factory these are just glued on to the rear of the door card. I don’t know if they’re designed to break away so cleanly or if it’s because the glue is approaching twenty years old now, but five out of the twelve or so broke off and remained attached to the car. I removed these and later when I refitted the door card, post AMSS installation, I glued the lugs back onto the rear of the door card with gorilla glue (24hrs cure time) and the door card popped back on easily and securely. With the rear door card and the insulating polystyrene block removed there is a surprising amount of space between the outer skin of the car and the interior.

Around to the rear of the car it was a case of removing the lower boot trim (which holds the warning triangle) and three of the spring loaded cargo net clips. Removal of the carpeted surround hiding the current plastic Bose sub and CD auto-changer was straight forward.

It was then a case of removing the old equipment, but retaining the CD changer as I love a good quality compact disc still. The AMSS locates well into its new home but in order to get the sub as low as possible you might need to remove the central locking pump. Also, in order to get the AMSS as far into the space as possible you’ll need to remove the alarm control module and re-locate it. All of this is detailed in the excellent PDF guide. I added a second cable tie around the central locking pump to stop the foam jacket from interfering with the movement of the speaker cone.

I added some aluminium backed Roadkill speaker insulation to stick to any exposed bare panels around the rear of the new enclosure and I made sure everything was securely attached (other car wiring cables etc). I made some brackets out of 2mm thick galvanised steel. These attach to the existing threads (attached to the car body) that originally held in the old sub and the CD changer cradle. The cradle is no longer required so it was separated from the CD changer before refitting. It’s a very tight fit getting the changer back in. I applied the same Roadkill speaker dampening between the sub enclosure and CD changer unit, as well as some thicker insulation (10mm) around both sides and rear. I haven’t experienced any CD skipping yet so I must have done a decent enough job!

I wanted to retain the factory Audi Chorus headunit with Bose speakers and Bose amp. The speakers are actually alright. They’re not amazing but they’re not rubbish and certainly loud enough for me! In order to retain factory functionality with remote-on etc.
I needed to make a wiring harness that would take the signals from the plug socket that went into the back of the old Bose sub and redirect the feeds I needed to the new amplifier. Luckily the original Bose system has a remote power-on wire so I didn’t have to run an extra cable. Again, I can’t thank Andy enough for the pin out diagram. I managed to source an unused second hand Bose sub that I could steal the female wiring plug and cables from so that I didn’t have to cannibalise my original. This meant I could simply click-in my new harness to the existing car wiring loom meaning I have a fully reversible set-up should I ever decide to remove the AMSS. Also I didn’t fancy butchering the car’s wiring if it could be avoided....so I opted for this solution. As luck would have it, my 20 year old soldering iron gave up the ghost after soldering the first wire, so I had to get a new one - typical! The five wires used from the car’s Bose wiring was left/right audio, left/right shield, and remote-on. The remote-on is required so that when the car is turned off, a single press of the power button on the headunit will turn on the radio with the amp so you can listen to music with the sub operating, otherwise it would only run when the accessories are turned on. This is how the original factory set-up worked and I wanted to retain that. This was my finished harness.

I was lucky enough to source a second hand Alpine V12 amplifier (model: MRV-T500) on Facebook marketplace several years ago. The guy selling it also asked if I wanted all the cables attached to it. I bit his arm off as he had used really good quality cables that were made in Germany. I installed the amp into the door void. I applied thick 10mm sound deadening material to the back side of the outer door skin (being careful not to obstruct the amp cooling vents) . The amp wedged itself into the sponge really nicely along the bottom edge and a single nut, washer and bolt attach the amp to the car frame.
It’s surprisingly sturdy.

I had to set up the amp prior to installing it within the void. After trying various settings, what I found worked best for me was to keep the phase at 0 degrees, using a bridged 1+2 connection, with gain set to a little over 0.5v, Low pass frequency at about 140Hz. The results were very good (despite the rear left missing speaker as it was still connected to the removed door card). The picture below shows the orientation that worked for my amp as it was quite small but doesn’t show the sound deadening I installed on the rear of the quarter panel.

The finished result is really impressive. It’s a completely stealth install and you wouldn’t know unless you looked in the boot and removed the cover panel (or if you heard it of course )

Peek-a-boo! Now you see me:

Now you don’t see me:

You wouldn’t know there was an amp and a load of extra cabling routed through the interior at all. I didn’t break any panels or clips anywhere (but it did take me about four days remember?!)

Ahhh working just like it came from the factory or “OEM+” as likes to call it!

Overall I’m extremely happy with the outcome. I wish I had done it back in 2010 when the car was my daily driver!

Quality Job mate well done!

Sent from Syknet Global Defence Network

 

[confusionhunter]

I had the same set up in my car, awesome set up. I put the amp in the same place but I ran a 2 channel for the fronts too! Wanting to replicate it for my S4 now.... At some point. But cracking effort! Ive been a JL audio sub fan ever since!

 

[s3mad_dude]

Just thought I’d provide a little update on the AMSS setup I installed a few months ago. I wanted the gain turned up a little bit because when during the initial setup the car was in pieces so the bass sounded very powerful, but by the time the panels and seats were put back in, and coupled with road noise I wanted more bass.

I removed the rear door card and removed the amp. I adjusted the gain and I thought to myself, I really need another way of adjusting the gain without all this faff so I looked into a remote gain adjuster. I found a good quality Rockford Fosgate remote controller and I set about fitting it. The amp is set on max gain now so that the new knob has the full range of adjustment. I secured the knob onto the top of the sub in the compartment so that in future I can adjust it as and when I want to. I didn’t want it in the cabin or for it to be on show.

As I kept the original speaker setup, and factory headunit, I do have a deep sounding pop noise on start-up. It doesn’t make any difference whether I turn the headunit on with the car powered off, or if the audio system comes alive from the ignition. It’s always been there since I removed the factory sub, so I thought I’d have a go at installing a delay trigger module.

There are four wires.
I connected the +12V wire and the ground wire to the +12V feed and Earth feed from the Bose connector block - both of which were unused since installing the amp. Now I just needed the trigger to start the delay.

I’ve piggybacked into the right line-out wire from my home-made loom with a dodgy looking piggyback connector (see picture) and disconnected my remote-on wire. Then, I connected the trigger output to the remote-on part of the amp. It seemed to work the first time I powered the audio on but the amp then turned off after a few seconds. I couldn’t then get it to work, the amp just wouldn’t power on.

Is my understanding of this device correct and is it the right one for my set-up? Or is there a better device or a better method of installation I could do?

I Just wondered if anyone had any ideas or whether I’m just being too OCD. The pop sound really isn’t that bad but at the same time, if I can fix it, I’d like to try.

End result - car 1 - James nil :-(

At the moment I’ve removed the PAC-TR4 and everything is working again, and so is the pop sound.

 

[NHN]

Very sad when he passed, remember him very well on here, he's definitely missed.

 

[s3mad_dude]

Very sad. He was so knowledgeable too. He’d get all of this up and running in no time at all.

 

[NHN]

Was so sudden aswell, time flies.

 

[tcg]

Looking at the wiring diagram mate...I think you should connect the green wire to the 'AMP' control output or 'ANT+' output from the stereo to trigger the amplifier...does that make sense?

 

[s3mad_dude]

Hi tcg, thanks for your help.

Actually, I got up early today as I had a brain wave last night. Some Googling showed me that a fella with a Harley Davidson had his green wire hooked up to the positive terminal of a nearby speaker, so I thought I’d try that as it’s easier than running back to the ANT+. It works perfectly now with my test connections and the pop has gone, so now I’m soldering it all up properly. I guess the line out from the wiring loom I used yesterday wasn’t supplying enough voltage to trigger the module.

For some reason the factory radio sends power to the amp really quickly via the normal remote-on wire and it turns the amp on but the radio takes a couple of seconds to boot up so by the time that fires up the amp was already on and the turn on sound was being amplified.

Now I don’t hear any pop sound. Nice bit of kit this and makes for a really quality install.

Super happy now

 

[tcg]

Great news mate...you've done a cracking job with that and I bet it sounds much better, plus nobody can tell as it's hidden so stealthy.

 

[s3mad_dude]

Thank you very much, I’m really happy with the install and the car wiring loom has not been touched with in any way. The goal was to be stealthy and keep the vehicle original. I’m quite proud of my plug and play Bose/Frankenstein/PAC-TR4 wiring loom!

 

[MPH]

Thank you very much, I’m really happy with the install and the car wiring loom has not been touched with in any way. The goal was to be stealthy and keep the vehicle original. I’m quite proud of my plug and play Bose/Frankenstein/PAC-TR4 wiring loom!

Being a lover of music and the basslines! Your post has inspired me to start a build of my own, as the amss enclosure is no longer available I will be using one of these 8-inch enclosures and I am just in the process of laying my hands on an alpine MRV F450 V12 looking for a nice sub poss JL audio and will be gathering up the wiring etc to begin as soon as possible.

 

[s3mad_dude]

Great idea, MPH. I really enjoyed doing the job and especially the “making neat” part. It’s not difficult, just a bit time consuming. I’d probably go for the same bass box too if I were in your shoes. Let us know how you get on.

 

[MPH]

Great idea, MPH. I really enjoyed doing the job and especially the “making neat” part. It’s not difficult, just a bit time consuming. I’d probably go for the same bass box too if I were in your shoes. Let us know how you get on.

Which driver do you plan to fit to the enclosure?

Many thanks for your reply I was originally going for a spare wheel insert active sub but changed the plan sub one jbl to high and sub 2 eten res 11 was not 100 % about longevity! looking forward to it amp does 5 channels so I may go for all 5 speakers lol will keep you posted.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[MPH]

@s3mad_dude did you run the live cable under the metal? was it easy to retrieve amp side? as it looks in the image thanks in advance Mark

 

[s3mad_dude]

@s3mad_dude did you run the live cable under the metal? was it easy to retrieve amp side? as it looks in the image thanks in advance Mark

Yes I fed it through the inside of the metal. With the rear door card removed the cable simply pops out near the metal seatbelt rail/slider.

 

[MPH]

Yes I fed it through the inside of the metal. With the rear door card removed the cable simply pops out near the metal seatbelt rail/slider.

Many thanks I now have the amp and enclosure waiting for the jl audio 8 inch big brother of your one also did you have wadding in your amss enclosure thanks Mark. The amp is a 5/6 channel monster going to be fun wiring that up and working out all the best settings etc.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[s3mad_dude]

Yes, the AMSS has wadding inside the enclosure. Picture added. Oooh the 8” JBL will be nice!! We will all expect a full review once everything is up and running! :-D

 

[mephisto]

Being a lover of music and the basslines! View attachment 240555View attachment 240559View attachment 240560Your post has inspired me to start a build of my own, as the amss enclosure is no longer available I will be using one of these 8-inch enclosures and I am just in the process of laying my hands on an alpine MRV F450 V12 looking for a nice sub poss JL audio and will be gathering up the wiring etc to begin as soon as possible.

OK first of all a brilliant bit of work here s3mad_dude, if i recollect you bought that AMSS off the classifieds on here earlier this year right? As i was looking a little while after and saw the thread of someone trying to almost give it away before you bought it! Considering you were unfamiliar with some of it, you've done a lovely tidy job fair play.

Secondly yes also tip my hat here to Andy, read so many of his threads before i realised he wasn't with us anymore, so much respect to you matey wherever you are now.

Lastly i have just installed the above sub enclosure mentioned by MPH

I used a cheapish Sub speaker - In Phase Car Audio XT-8 1000W 8" XT
Plus
Pioneer DAB head unit MVH S520DAB
Pioneer AMP. (wired 3way)

Ill upload some pics if you want. What i did observe is it's a very tight fit. Despite trimming the seam above the NSR wheel arch i still had to remove the foam jacket from the central locking unit for it all to fit back ok. With some tuning the Sub sounds good, much better than the previous unit. Just need to replace the rest of the speakers to quality units.

 

[MPH]

OK first of all a brilliant bit of work here s3mad_dude, if i recollect you bought that AMSS off the classifieds on here earlier this year right? As i was looking a little while after and saw the thread of someone trying to almost give it away before you bought it! Considering you were unfamiliar with some of it, you've done a lovely tidy job fair play.

Secondly yes also tip my hat here to Andy, read so many of his threads before i realised he wasn't with us anymore, so much respect to you matey wherever you are now.

Lastly i have just installed the above sub enclosure mentioned by MPH

I used a cheapish Sub speaker - In Phase Car Audio XT-8 1000W 8" XT
Plus
Pioneer DAB head unit MVH S520DAB
Pioneer AMP. (wired 3way)

Ill upload some pics if you want. What i did observe is it's a very tight fit. Despite trimming the seam above the NSR wheel arch i still had to remove the foam jacket from the central locking unit for it all to fit back ok. With some tuning the Sub sounds good, much better than the previous unit. Just need to replace the rest of the speakers to quality units.

Nice one! Some pics would be nice it could assist me in my install for example where you secured it to etc,looking forward to seeing them @mephisto

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[MPH]

And so it begins swapped out the battery fuse box to accommodate the 50amp alpine V12 fuse gave the amp a quick wrap to see how it looks in brushed satin black OEM style as I am unsure whether it will fit in the desired location although it probably will! The JL is due to arrive Monday all being well! Cables and 8oz wadding on order plus various other bits & pieces looking to start next week may strip out the Tupperware box over the weekend to test fit the enclosure @mephisto says its tight so will see what hardware is needed to mount securely that's it for now...Watch this Space...

 

[Farmor00]

Hi everyone, today I finished the installation of the AMSS into the car. It’s taken me about 4 days on and off doing bits here and there but I’m really happy with the outcome. The instructions provided by the late Andy Mac are very informative. I really didn’t think I’d be able to achieve this but if you take your time to understand what you’re doing it’s not too daunting. I feel I have a much better understanding of car audio now and I really enjoyed learning and doing this fit.

I started off by running an 8AWG power cable from the fuse box on top of the battery. It’s protected by a 50amp fuse. I removed the airbox and loosened the strut brace so that I could remove the plastic trunking protecting the car’s wiring loom. I neatly threaded my power cable through the trunking and into the area where the pollen filter resides. There is a rubber grommet built into the firewall which you can gently pierce and slide the cable through. Once the cable was cut, measured and threaded through I applied a small blob of clear silicone over the grommet just to prevent any water ingress. Please excuse the dusty/dirty engine bay - that’ll be my next job! An engine detail.

From inside the car I removed the glovebox, and using a coat hanger retrieved the end of the power cable and pulled it through. After removing the lower door sill trim, I was able to route the cable neatly within the passenger sill and into the space where the rear door card sits.

Just to add to this thread you can actually get power from inside the car if you remove the panel below the steering wheel. unfortunately I don't have any pics but once the panel is off its pretty self explanatory.

 

[Farmor00]

Being a lover of music and the basslines! View attachment 240555View attachment 240559View attachment 240560Your post has inspired me to start a build of my own, as the amss enclosure is no longer available I will be using one of these 8-inch enclosures and I am just in the process of laying my hands on an alpine MRV F450 V12 looking for a nice sub poss JL audio and will be gathering up the wiring etc to begin as soon as possible.

Keep in mind that bassers box doesnt fit Quattro models. It will be in the way of the central locking pump so if you remove the pump I guess you could fit it or if you relocate it but it uses hard plastic tubing so seems impossible to relocate.

 

[MPH]

Keep in mind that bassers box doesnt fit Quattro models. It will be in the way of the central locking pump so if you remove the pump I guess you could fit it or if you relocate it but it uses hard plastic tubing so seems impossible to relocate.

Maybe it will fit my a3 8l non turbo version I will consider relocation of the pump should it be absolutely necessary I have the tube and connectors in my parts department.

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[Farmor00]

Maybe it will fit my a3 8l non turbo version I will consider relocation of the pump should it be absolutely necessary I have the tube and connectors in my parts department.

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If you do manage to relocate it please share pics and tag me as I have a Basserbox just laying around but I have Andymacs installed right now.

 

[MPH]

If you do manage to relocate it please share pics and tag me as I have a Basserbox just laying around but I have Andymacs installed right now.

No problem will be in touch soon

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[MPH]

Keep in mind that bassers box doesnt fit Quattro models. It will be in the way of the central locking pump so if you remove the pump I guess you could fit it or if you relocate it but it uses hard plastic tubing so seems impossible to relocate.

@Farmor00 if you look earlier in this thread @mephisto has already installed the box in question says its a tight fit but doable waiting for when some pics are uploaded for more details

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[Farmor00]

@Farmor00 if you look earlier in this thread @mephisto has already installed the box in question says its a tight fit but doable waiting for when some pics are uploaded for more details

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Seems impossible (due to central locking pump) as Andymacs box is already a tight fit. I tried fitting the Basser box first before getting Andymacs and it was impossible and Basser himself said its not made for Quattro cars when I contacted him.

 

[mephisto]

Here is a pic of it fitted as you can see it's a bit tight, i had to trim off some of the metal on the seam over the wheelarch and moved the loom to the side to stop it lifting the sub even more. This gave enough room to fit the central lock unit still. albeit as you can see minus the foam box it was covered with.

I used brackets to fix the box back in place using the same studs used for the old box you can see one on the top surface the gold coloured bracket.