Fault code 17795 after changing lambda

C

Callhome

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Hi everyone!

So, first things first.

2000 Audi S3 APY

After changing lambda today, i took my car for a drive, and it seems to be in sort of a limp mode. I can hear the turbo spooling and dumping, but just barely. So i guess half-limp?

The car has been standing inside at work for the last 4 days.

Now i cant get rid of this fault code.

Fault code 17795 - Internal Control Module malfunction. I cant fint much on Google, but it seems to be with the ECU??


The fault does not appear on Ross-Tech either..

Has anybody seen this?

Finally got my car to run properly, and now this...
 
I'd check the ECU plug connections for corrosion...

ECU is in the scuttle under the plastic cover

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
Internal control module damage (assuming its the engine module you scanned) is normally related to water damage from the few I have seen

<tuffty/>
 
depends on the damage... Hopefully yours will be ok enough to clone given it runs the car at the moment

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
depends on the damage... Hopefully yours will be ok enough to clone given it runs the car at the moment

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Two questions;

How do you know everything about these cars?

And what du you mean by cloning? Do i need another ECU? And how could i clone it?
 
Callhome said:
How do you know everything about these cars?
Click to expand...
10 years of S3 ownership will make you lose your hair, go grey and go skint... you do however get to learn a few things along the way lol...

Callhome said:
And what du you mean by cloning? Do i need another ECU? And how could i clone it?
Click to expand...
You can't just use any other ECU as it needs to be the right type (APY S3, APX TT and I believe the AYP Seat Ibiza cupra has a compatible ECU too)

The ECU has an EEPROM with immobiliser code and VIN number in it... this would need to be read from your ECU and flashed into the new ECU... its probably worth reading out your map file and flashing that in too especially if the car is mapped already or the ECU is off a car other than an APY S3

As for how you do it... thats a little more involved and requires a bench flash rig, software and a suitable OBD cable...

You would need to take the ECU apart to be able to get it into boot mode then flash that way... the software for reading the EEPROM can do it with the ECU fitted through the OBD port though and I believe it can also flash through the port too but its not advisable as if the comms drop out it can brick the ECU

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
10 years of S3 ownership will make you lose your hair, go grey and go skint... you do however get to learn a few things along the way lol...


You can't just use any other ECU as it needs to be the right type (APY S3, APX TT and I believe the AYP Seat Ibiza cupra has a compatible ECU too)

The ECU has an EEPROM with immobiliser code and VIN number in it... this would need to be read from your ECU and flashed into the new ECU... its probably worth reading out your map file and flashing that in too especially if the car is mapped already or the ECU is off a car other than an APY S3

As for how you do it... thats a little more involved and requires a bench flash rig, software and a suitable OBD cable...

You would need to take the ECU apart to be able to get it into boot mode then flash that way... the software for reading the EEPROM can do it with the ECU fitted through the OBD port though and I believe it can also flash through the port too but its not advisable as if the comms drop out it can brick the ECU

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...


Is this the simplest way?? Was hoping i could buy a new APY ECU, and code that to the car, and be done with it.

The car is mapped, but insted of doing all this, i would be better off just buying another ECU, and map that, considering all the work that lays in cloning this.. Right?
 
Reflashing a map is easier than sorting the EEPROM tbh... you can't just use another ECU even it it is from another S3 APY... the immobiliser is coded to the instruments of your car so the official way to recode a replacement ECU is to get the SKU code from the instrument cluster as you will need this to log into the instrument cluster through VCDS to recode the new ECU so the engine will start...

I did this to mine a few years back to have a spare ECU before I went standalone...

Bill at Badger5 does these all day long so if it comes to having to swap the ECU out you could send them to him and he will clone them for you...

But all this is a little speculative as you will need to see if yours is water damaged first....

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Reflashing a map is easier than sorting the EEPROM tbh... you can't just use another ECU even it it is from another S3 APY... the immobiliser is coded to the instruments of your car so the official way to recode a replacement ECU is to get the SKU code from the instrument cluster as you will need this to log into the instrument cluster through VCDS to recode the new ECU so the engine will start...

I did this to mine a few years back to have a spare ECU before I went standalone...

Bill at Badger5 does these all day long so if it comes to having to swap the ECU out you could send them to him and he will clone them for you...

But all this is a little speculative as you will need to see if yours is water damaged first....

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Your’e right, it’s speculative, but after googling the fault code, everyone that has fixed the problem has ended up with a new ECU.

Just to be clear, and this may be a stupid question. If i was to send Bill two ECU’s. Do the "new" ECU have to be all new, or could it be a part-number-matching one that has been used? And would he need my car, or anything other from it other than the ECU to do the job? I could ofcourse ask him, but i feel like we are on a roll here now, and i really really appreciate you using your time to answer me.

The reason i ask is because i live in Norway, and i dont think there are anyone who does this around here..
 
Ahhhh... ok... well yeah you would have to ask him if he will be ok doing it as you live a little further away than most of his customers :)

Bill may even have an APY ECU in his stock pile as he has done a fair few wideband conversions on narrow band cars..

The replacement ECU doesn't need to be new but needs to be an ME7 variant with 512kb file memory... I think most of the ECU's of that era are similar but obvs if you can get an APY one then that would be preferable..

All he would need is your old ECU and the one you want it cloned to (assuming he hasn't got one) as the process is essentially a case of reading the EEPROM and map file out of your old ECU while in the ECU's boot mode then flashing them into the replacement ECU...

Prob best to drop Bill an email (sales@badger5.co.uk) or msg on facebook (https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd) and ask the question assuming that your ECU is indeed the issue here

<tuffty/>
 
Is it possible you simply bought the wrong lambda sensor? Was the car working before changing the part? Or did you get this to try and fix it?
 
<tuffty/> said:
Ahhhh... ok... well yeah you would have to ask him if he will be ok doing it as you live a little further away than most of his customers :)

Bill may even have an APY ECU in his stock pile as he has done a fair few wideband conversions on narrow band cars..

The replacement ECU doesn't need to be new but needs to be an ME7 variant with 512kb file memory... I think most of the ECU's of that era are similar but obvs if you can get an APY one then that would be preferable..

All he would need is your old ECU and the one you want it cloned to (assuming he hasn't got one) as the process is essentially a case of reading the EEPROM and map file out of your old ECU while in the ECU's boot mode then flashing them into the replacement ECU...

Prob best to drop Bill an email (sales@badger5.co.uk) or msg on facebook (https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd) and ask the question assuming that your ECU is indeed the issue here

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...


Thanks very much! Will do! After i check for corrosion tho :)
 
Stuart B said:
Is it possible you simply bought the wrong lambda sensor? Was the car working before changing the part? Or did you get this to try and fix it?
Click to expand...

Hmm, thats a good thought. The lambda that sat in my car was throwing a code, and the car worked barely. Using a hell of a lot of petrol, and went like stink..

The new lambda is a brand new Bosch, and was ordered out of chassis number, so should be a good one.

Dont know if it is possible to see if it is the wrong lambda without trying a new one.
 
Hello guys! Took off the ECU today, and, as tuffty said, it was quite an amount of corrosion.. Guess i need a new ECU then?
 
<tuffty/> said:
Pics?

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Sure! Here you go mate
C3407B71 05DD 4974 8466 9C68DAE81253
E59D7E7B D383 424D 824B 811485BC03BE
 
Surely it's worth cleaning up the corrosion on the ecu and loom plug and seeing if the fault clears? The ecu will be detecting a short as it is but may not actually be damaged yet.
 
ben4866 said:
Surely it's worth cleaning up the corrosion on the ecu and loom plug and seeing if the fault clears? The ecu will be detecting a short as it is but may not actually be damaged yet.
Click to expand...


I did try to clean it, but unfortunately it did not help. Car still runs with very low boost.

Did not try to clear faults with VAGCOM or ODIS, but i guess it wont help..
 
<tuffty/> said:
Yeah that looks pretty fubar mate to be fair... Replacing the ecu is one part... Might need to take the plugs apart to clean up the pins

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Fubar:tearsofjoy:

Well, the plan now is replacing the ECU, getting it coded to the car in some way, and i will also replace the contact(?) and the pins. The gasket on the contact got completely ruined trying to disconnect everything pulling the lock all the way out. Dont know if the gasket is what has caused the moisture in there though.. Trying to put it together again it seemed to be way too long for the contact for some reason..

Will ask Bill for a quote on the cloning of another ECU. But i dont know if all the cost is worth it over buying another used ECU and get it coded to the car and do the remap over again.. Really grateful for all the tips so far!

A used ECU will cost around 200 pounds of eBay, and i guess i’ll get some discount on coding a new ECU to the car (or whatever it takes to do a switch) considering i work at a VW dealer (we dont do audis though)..
 
Ask Bill about an ecu... 200 is a bit steep... I only paid around 50 for my wideband one

<tuffty/>
 
You can often get an immo defeated bam ECU for around 100
 
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