Exhaust

Mike.46

Well-Known Member
I know it would wreck the motor for future use but, suppose the motor travels anti clockwise for wide open, if you cut the two locators off I have marked in green it would still open the valve but not close it, you'd still probably need to lock wire the valve open though

8Y exhaust.png
 

Doja cat

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking if you did jam or lock open the valve, then not actually refit the actuator (just secure it out the way), it would still motor and the car think it was moving the valve, is that what you did try @8YARWY ?

But then if it is looking for resistance against that spring, surely it would fault code eventually?
 

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
I'm thinking if you did jam or lock open the valve, then not actually refit the actuator (just secure it out the way), it would still motor and the car think it was moving the valve, is that what you did try @8YARWY ?

But then if it is looking for resistance against that spring, surely it would fault code eventually?

I jammed the mechanism with a small thin screw driver through the side where you can see the motor and valve top mechanism meet.

I was curious to see if limited movement flagged up an error.

Another way to do this

Take the motor off

Remove the loose spring in the valve top

Open the valve with your finger

Tie it off with some bare earth cable so it can’t move back shut

Use one of the bolt holes on the top to bolt the motor back, but with the motor overhanging the outside of the flange instead of inside.

This way the motor is free to travel so no risk of damage to anything.


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I jammed the mechanism with a small thin screw driver through the side where you can see the motor and valve top mechanism meet.

I was curious to see if limited movement flagged up an error.

Another way to do this

Take the motor off

Remove the loose spring in the valve top

Open the valve with your finger

Tie it off with some bare earth cable so it can’t move back shut

Use one of the bolt holes on the top to bolt the motor back, but with the motor overhanging the outside of the flange instead of inside.

This way the motor is free to travel so no risk of damage to anything.


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but now that the motor won’t feel any pressure won’t it make a fault code ? I’m just trying to figure out what made the fault codes in the first place with the blanks cause something must have done it, I don’t mind trying it out at all but my OBDeleven hasn’t arrived yet and I’d rather be able to clear any codes that might appear
 
Hello Everybody, newbie in the house. Just got my first ever Audi after owning about 35 cars during my life, I think I missed a trick - got my RS3 and I am loving it. I am just about to click the buy button on an ASR controller mainly because I want the 'always open' in RS modes. However sometimes I actually like a bit of peace and quiet on a long cruise or on the dreary drive to work (getting old). Do I need to worry about the flaps opening at 3500/4500 with these controllers or in fact, is the native ECU doing it anyway ? Cheers
 

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
Hello Everybody, newbie in the house. Just got my first ever Audi after owning about 35 cars during my life, I think I missed a trick - got my RS3 and I am loving it. I am just about to click the buy button on an ASR controller mainly because I want the 'always open' in RS modes. However sometimes I actually like a bit of peace and quiet on a long cruise or on the dreary drive to work (getting old). Do I need to worry about the flaps opening at 3500/4500 with these controllers or in fact, is the native ECU doing it anyway ? Cheers

Safety built into it they automatically open as normally even if in ‘closed’ mode.


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8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
Could they be cut out as part of what that PCR chap does?

Why though ? Ruins a perfectly fine exhaust system.

Can’t see the point for marginal gain.

Amazes me how many want to trash the rear of the exhaust, when a valve controller does the same job and will have resale value in years to come.


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Keano04

Registered User
Why though ? Ruins a perfectly fine exhaust system.

Can’t see the point for marginal gain.

Amazes me how many want to trash the rear of the exhaust, when a valve controller does the same job and will have resale value in years to come.


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If it’s perfectly fine why we discussing ways to try to improve it?!

I’ve never used that pcw chap that many have (just quoted him as an example) but if you get a decent exhaust chappie it doesn’t trash the exhaust.

Just trying to think of options.
 

Doja cat

Well-Known Member
With all the talk about this car sound/exhaust I provisionally booked a slot with PCW for early June prior to getting the car.
After fitting the AVC, I personally was happy and cancelled. But June was the earliest I could have had when booking in Feb!!!!
 

betaone68

Registered User
With all the talk about this car sound/exhaust I provisionally booked a slot with PCW for early June prior to getting the car.
After fitting the AVC, I personally was happy and cancelled. But June was the earliest I could have had when booking in Feb!!!!
Can you explain in detail how ACV works? I tried searching the internet but there are 2 sites that look official https://www.active-sound.eu/it/index and https://www.cete-automotive.de/it/
Only on https://www.active-sound.eu/it/index is there a version for RS3 8Y https://www.active-sound.eu/it/audi/audi-a3/audi-a3-8y/active-valve-control . However, there are no installation instructions and there is no clear difference between ESP variant and Profil based control.
With ESP variant if I understood correctly by pressing ESP buttons twice you open the valves permanently and if you press again twice it returns to original situation. If I switch the car off with open valves does it switch back on with open valves ?
With variant Profil based control the valves are always open on Dynamic , RS Performance and RS Torque Rear .
If you want to open the valves in Efficiency , Comfort Mode , Auto Mode RS and Individual Mode you have to press twice on the original button . By original button do they mean start and stop?
If I understand correctly it stores the start & stop setting when switched on . This is a really good thing , I would avoid deactivating it every time I use the car .
If these are the differences, who chooses the ESP version? Doesn't it give any advantage?
 

Doja cat

Well-Known Member
You pretty much hit the nail on the head, 2 versions
ESP button and Drive Select (via drive profile), with the Drive Select one I have fitted, I haven't been able to force open the valves in comfort, the double press ESP button is only for the 2 connector ESP variant it seems.
SSA memory is via two additional wires running to the driver side and clips around two control wires (no cutting required), but as that needs the trim below steering wheel removed, I haven't done it yet.

The instruction are sent via email once ordered, I had to Google translate them myself.
 

Doja cat

Well-Known Member
Screenshot_20220517-051558_OneDrive.png
Screenshot_20220517-051558_OneDrive.png
 

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
If it’s perfectly fine why we discussing ways to try to improve it?!

I’ve never used that pcw chap that many have (just quoted him as an example) but if you get a decent exhaust chappie it doesn’t trash the exhaust.

Just trying to think of options.

Hmmmm let me think

Plug valve controller that takes literally 5 mins to fit

Go somewhere miles away, take half the exhaust off, make several cuts put exhaust back on…..

Same result only worse as now when you sell the car it may put a buyer off


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Daggerit

Registered User
Hmmmm let me think

Plug valve controller that takes literally 5 mins to fit

Go somewhere miles away, take half the exhaust off, make several cuts put exhaust back on…..

Same result only worse as now when you sell the car it may put a buyer off


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Indeed. Not only that but the cat and especially OPF are the main sound killers in the exhaust, which will still be in place. I'm sure Billy will be able to tell for sure, but I imagine that with the OPF removed even the sports exhaust system being in place would still sound pretty good.
 

Terminator x

Registered User
Billy's car did have an OPF bypass or delete and it did sound great however it was throwing ecu errors so he removed it.

TX.

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8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
Billy's car did have an OPF bypass or delete and it did sound great however it was throwing ecu errors so he removed it.

TX.

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I'm told a set of OPF cancelling modules are imminent for the 8Y RS3, obviously then it means cutting out the OPFs and clamping a straight thru piece into each pipe......
 
I'm told a set of OPF cancelling modules are imminent for the 8Y RS3, obviously then it means cutting out the OPFs and clamping a straight thru piece into each pipe......
You happen to know by who ? The moment I see them online from a credible place I’m placing my order lol
 

Lucasquattro

Stay hungry, stay foolish
I talked with them. They remove opf, install a 200 cell (i think), and install 2 emulators for delete the engine errors but for now, you can't buy the kit
I confirm that their solution is a full turbo-back with sport cat.

They are a well known Italian company so I wrote them to better understand what they did to solve the errors, if they really managed to.

I'll keep you updated!
 
I confirm that their solution is a full turbo-back with sport cat.

They are a well known Italian company so I wrote them to better understand what they did to solve the errors, if they really managed to.

I'll keep you updated!
So is it a cat back exhaust with cats replacing the OPFs filters or does it have a sports cat as well as cats replacing the OPFs ? It sounds amazing I wonder how far they went to achieve it as that’s where I’m aiming.
 

Lucasquattro

Stay hungry, stay foolish
So is it a cat back exhaust with cats replacing the OPFs filters or does it have a sports cat as well as cats replacing the OPFs ? It sounds amazing I wonder how far they went to achieve it as that’s where I’m aiming.
No OPFs at all obviously, they are the evil :smilingimp:

From images and description they produce a silenced cat pipe, followed by free flow center pipe and a valved rear silencer which will be surely less restrictive than the RS exhaust one.

Screenshot 2022-05-18 at 13.14.04.png
IMG_7841.jpg
Screenshot 2022-05-18 at 13.13.55.png
 

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
Probably cheaper to buy the OEM exhaust (£2500) modify it by removing the OPF's and use delete modules.........
I don’t think anyone buying an 8Y would complain on removing the OPFs to restore the unique sound, it’s not like doing a de-cat which you (and cops) can smell and after a while smoke is also something that may occur, as one of the biggest reasons to get an RS3 is the 5 pot especially as it might be the last gen!
I think I’ll wait with buying anything for the time being (apart from the valve controller which I ordered) and wait for the delete module, removing the OPFs might just be enough (thou for my taste it might not be as I had a decated N55 M2 with stock exhaust which for me was spot on sound wise so a muffler might be needed)
 

Lucasquattro

Stay hungry, stay foolish
Probably cheaper to buy the OEM exhaust (£2500) modify it by removing the OPF's and use delete modules.........
It obviously depends on how much loud you wanna go.

If we can put down a ranking based on decibels, it should be like the following:
  1. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, free center pipe, only light silencer at the back
  2. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, light silencer at the center and back
  3. Sport cat, de-opf, free center pipe, light silencer at the back (similar to Ragazzon)
  4. Sport cat, de-opf, catback RS exhaust
  5. Modify original downpipe to remove OPF and leave everything else stock
I'm in for the number 4 'cause I think it would be already a great improvement overall in sound and temperatures.
Cost wise should also be the cheaper way considering that a good catted downpipe should be around 8-900£ and will be plug and play with possibility to rollback to stock easily.
 

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
ASR valve controller fitted today.

Bit happier now

No errors from the fitting / usage of it.

Works with cruise control stalk as well as ESC button.

It can also be turned off via stalk set button.

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Last edited:

8YARWY

Translating gobbledygook
It obviously depends on how much loud you wanna go.

If we can put down a ranking based on decibels, it should be like the following:
  1. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, free center pipe, only light silencer at the back
  2. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, light silencer at the center and back
  3. Sport cat, de-opf, free center pipe, light silencer at the back (similar to Ragazzon)
  4. Sport cat, de-opf, catback RS exhaust
  5. Modify original downpipe to remove OPF and leave everything else stock
I'm in for the number 4 'cause I think it would be already a great improvement overall in sound and temperatures.
Cost wise should also be the cheaper way considering that a good catted downpipe should be around 8-900£ and will be plug and play with possibility to rollback to stock easily.

I’d be happy just to bin the OPF’s.


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Keano04

Registered User
Hmmmm let me think

Plug valve controller that takes literally 5 mins to fit

Go somewhere miles away, take half the exhaust off, make several cuts put exhaust back on…..

Same result only worse as now when you sell the car it may put a buyer off


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Lol
 

Keano04

Registered User
Well after doing some driving it’s a big improvement worth doing and valves keep their open state even when locking / unlocking the car.

It also opens both valves automatically when the car is put into S.


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That sounds very promising
 
Well after doing some driving it’s a big improvement worth doing and valves keep their open state even when locking / unlocking the car.

It also opens both valves automatically when the car is put into S.


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Mine is coming on Friday, how did you find the fitting process ? I have bought some trim removal tools just to make sure I don't damage anything.......
 

Lucasquattro

Stay hungry, stay foolish
I’m tempted to retry with the basic RX1 since this seems the only viable exhaust mod at this time…
 

Mike.46

Well-Known Member
ASR valve controller fitted today.

Bit happier now

No errors from the fitting / usage of it.

Works with cruise control stalk as well as ESC button.

It can also be turned off via stalk set button.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is it loud enough do you think?

Which one did you buy? i'm tempted myself :)
 

Keano04

Registered User
It obviously depends on how much loud you wanna go.

If we can put down a ranking based on decibels, it should be like the following:
  1. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, free center pipe, only light silencer at the back
  2. Full exhaust with decat, de-opf, light silencer at the center and back
  3. Sport cat, de-opf, free center pipe, light silencer at the back (similar to Ragazzon)
  4. Sport cat, de-opf, catback RS exhaust
  5. Modify original downpipe to remove OPF and leave everything else stock
I'm in for the number 4 'cause I think it would be already a great improvement overall in sound and temperatures.
Cost wise should also be the cheaper way considering that a good catted downpipe should be around 8-900£ and will be plug and play with possibility to rollback to stock easily.

Number 4 would be what I’d like too I recon
 

Keano04

Registered User
An improvement definitely I backed it into the garage and switched the modes, it sounds a lot louder………


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Is this the one you went for?

For £300 ish that’s sounds really promising especially if it’s fault light / error code free too

a2d20d19748513ce48e3b445da9593f5.jpg
 
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