Exhaust

shahaf2911

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I want to make an exhaust thread as modding isn’t for everyone right now due to warranty and engine fault codes as there isn’t any workaround for the OPF yet.
So coming from an OG M2 (N55) with a downpipe to the new 8Y RS3 (with the RS exhaust) sound wise is rough, the sound of the 8V was amazing and finding a solution to the sound is a must IMO.
The miltek catback sounds almost exactly the same in videos so I’d never buy it for such a minimal gain if there is any.
I’ve seen akrapovic is working on a catback (or OPF back ?) exhaust a while back but I have no idea when it will be released and usually akrapovic don’t disappoint sound wise (price wise it’s a different subject haha).
I’ve also seen super sprint sells a full system but I haven’t seen anything about it, have you ?
I think I will be getting the valve control module as the valve only open at about 4K rpm so 80% of the time their just closed which is a shame and the plugs currently aren’t a solution due to engine fault codes.
If you know of any other mods, exhausts or anything related here’s the place ✌
 

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Biggest sound killer are the OPF’s themselves I’m afraid.

Anything after opening the valves 100 % of the time is a very marginal sound gain.


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Yep, Paul can and does work magic and many options (without OPF delete) depending how loud you want it

PCW £300
Heard of him but unfortunately I don’t live in the UK or anywhere near it so he’s not an option, I was really tempted to do a DIY and even learnt how mufflers work but there’s almost no info regarding muffler modification and how each thing affects the sound anywhere so a muffler mod is a no go (else someone can tell me what he changed (added pipes, closed holes/pipes, removed fiberglass etc) and then I don’t mind doing it myself haha)
 
Biggest sound killer are the OPF’s themselves I’m afraid.

Anything after opening the valves 100 % of the time is a very marginal sound gain.


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damn, so the valve controller is a must.
^^ he keeps it a secret for obvious reasons!

TX.
Yeah I know , I even tried paying him just to tell me what to do on my own car while the exhaust is cut open so ill just do the job myself, you can assume the answer haha
 
damn, so the valve controller is a must.

Yeah I know , I even tried paying him just to tell me what to do on my own car while the exhaust is cut open so ill just do the job myself, you can assume the answer haha

I’ll tell you once I had the correct wiring harness

dc6b502ee455a63d367e1d26e0efde65.jpg



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I want to make an exhaust thread as modding isn’t for everyone right now due to warranty and engine fault codes as there isn’t any workaround for the OPF yet.
So coming from an OG M2 (N55) with a downpipe to the new 8Y RS3 (with the RS exhaust) sound wise is rough, the sound of the 8V was amazing and finding a solution to the sound is a must IMO.
The miltek catback sounds almost exactly the same in videos so I’d never buy it for such a minimal gain if there is any.
I’ve seen akrapovic is working on a catback (or OPF back ?) exhaust a while back but I have no idea when it will be released and usually akrapovic don’t disappoint sound wise (price wise it’s a different subject haha).
I’ve also seen super sprint sells a full system but I haven’t seen anything about it, have you ?
I think I will be getting the valve control module as the valve only open at about 4K rpm so 80% of the time their just closed which is a shame and the plugs currently aren’t a solution due to engine fault codes.
If you know of any other mods, exhausts or anything related here’s the place ✌

All catback (or OPF-back) solutions are just a waste of money and the ASR module didn't worked for me so I returned it.

We need an ECU unlock to put on a proper downpipe (with cat IMO) and set the valve behaviour to always open in Dynamic/Performance/Torque.
 
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All catback (or OPF-back) solutions are just a waste of money and the ASR module didn't worked for me so I returned it.

We need an ECU unlock to put on a proper downpipe (with cat IMO) and set the valve behaviour to always open in Dynamic/Performance/Torque.
That’s my (own) first Audi, is it possible to flash the ECU back to the original map without the dealer knowing about it if they don’t look for it ? In my M2 it was possible (meaning if they looked manually at certain stored data parameters (boost for example) they would know it was tuned, but everything else would look normal)
 
That’s my (own) first Audi, is it possible to flash the ECU back to the original map without the dealer knowing about it if they don’t look for it ? In my M2 it was possible (meaning if they looked manually at certain stored data parameters (boost for example) they would know it was tuned, but everything else would look normal)

Can’t flash 8Y at all yet……

On my 8V FL I used to flash it all the time while using the Dyno Spectrum system, each time it would reset the flash counter, however after warranty was up I connected it up to ODIS (dealer tool) and it was ‘suspicion checking’ the car like crazy


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So the Milltek system, so I’m told was their first crack for EU compliance, but they’re working on a second one that’ll be opf back but straight through when valves open.

That being said if you look at the half decent sounding opf backs on sale in Germany that are on YouTube, they’re 3.5 inch vs the milltek which I think is 3 inch, so that’s probably the way to go.Albeit they’re about 3.5k euros I’m sure.

Haz motorsport have got ego-x / bull-x exhausts in stock for the 8Y, which are 3.5 inch and always sounded great on the 8V, £2500 I think.


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Decided to have a look if the exhaust motors could be disconnected from the flaps, so the flaps stay open and the motor is free to run.

Totally different from previous 8V and sadly not possible.

a96998aa6625e14a86cfb668e4049c66.jpg

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Ahhh, so that must be 8V PFL from my image search, to your 8V FL above.
So was that also just a simplified open/closed valve system? Audi have over engineered an exhaust valve this time round... but EU regs to rule them all!
 
Ahhh, so that must be 8V PFL from my image search, to your 8V FL above.
So was that also just a simplified open/closed valve system? Audi have over engineered an exhaust valve this time round... but EU regs to rule them all!

The motor has a fit when switched on, like it’s trying to sense the flap load on it so it knows where it is.

The spring in the centre needs careful positioning when putting the motor back.


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You mean kinda like seat belt pre tensioning? Variable valve?

No it’s finding it’s position because it’s off the car.
I think it gets confused that it can’t sense a load as that must give it a datum position.


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No it’s finding it’s position because it’s off the car.
I think it gets confused that it can’t sense a load as that must give it a datum position.


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Interesting, so basically the spring this time around is fixed to the valve and the motor opens it up ? Opposed to the previous gen where the spring was on the motor itself hence why it was possible to remove the motor and keep it open ?
Maybe it’s possible to remove the spring and place it on the motor ? Making it think the valve is working regularly I don’t have a lift so i couldn’t really tell
Edit: or maybe a diagram of how the new valve works ?
 
Interesting, so basically the spring this time around is fixed to the valve and the motor opens it up ? Opposed to the previous gen where the spring was on the motor itself hence why it was possible to remove the motor and keep it open ?
Maybe it’s possible to remove the spring and place it on the motor ? Making it think the valve is working regularly I don’t have a lift so i couldn’t really tell
Edit: or maybe a diagram of how the new valve works ?

Not possible I’m afraid.

The U shaped lugs slide over the top of 2 opposing pins on the flap swivel mechanism.

The centre spring is actually a loose fitting item and can be removed, I think it’s just for damping effect to stop any rattle.

e17e71c89ba74285bc44d5b86d7efd6f.jpg

972f2649e49bd06d082dcb711f0d1d2d.jpg



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Not possible I’m afraid.

The U shaped lugs slide over the top of 2 opposing pins on the flap swivel mechanism.

The centre spring is actually a loose fitting item and can be removed, I think it’s just for damping effect to stop any rattle.

e17e71c89ba74285bc44d5b86d7efd6f.jpg

972f2649e49bd06d082dcb711f0d1d2d.jpg



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Damn, why make something simple so complicated, let’s hope the valve controller will do the job, until audi made an RS3 that handles so well they just had to make our lives so difficult in making it sound like a proper 5 pot
 
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no need to hope, the valve controllers do work... at least my cete AVC does but I can't see why the ASR won't be any different
 
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Can the valve flaps be removed from the exhaust leaving the motor functioning but not spinning anything? Not looked at the location or anything but just firing an idea haha
 
no need to hope, the valve controllers do work... at least my cete AVC does but I can't see why the ASR won't be any different
I had Cete for my RS4 and will also get one for the 3. Such a simple yet effective solution. I also liked that it stayed "on" even after an ignition cycle.

TX.

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Can the valve flaps be removed from the exhaust leaving the motor functioning but not spinning anything? Not looked at the location or anything but just firing an idea haha

No as they are part of the exhaust and welded in.


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no need to hope, the valve controllers do work... at least my cete AVC does but I can't see why the ASR won't be any different
I think I’ll go thr Crete avc rout as it’s cheaper and you know it works, but I gotta say 550$ (And ~650$ for thr asr) for a valve controller is crazy expensive!! I got a forza valve controller for our sto and R8 for 380$ each, idk how is a valve controller that fits more wayyy more cars is twice the price
 
Not possible I’m afraid.

The U shaped lugs slide over the top of 2 opposing pins on the flap swivel mechanism.

The centre spring is actually a loose fitting item and can be removed, I think it’s just for damping effect to stop any rattle.

e17e71c89ba74285bc44d5b86d7efd6f.jpg

972f2649e49bd06d082dcb711f0d1d2d.jpg



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So would a bracket suffice to allow the motor to hit a stop?
 
That would clearly restrict free movement and control, the ecu will have a fit (so to speak)

I actually tested this theory…….

I managed to Jam the left side in the open position

Then went for a drive and then scanned the car expecting to find loads of errors……….nothing which I found weird.


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So why are the adapters throwing errors? Maybe needs a certain time over distance checks to realise an actual fault? I wouldn't expect your result to stay like that?
 
I actually tested this theory…….

I managed to Jam the left side in the open position

Then went for a drive and then scanned the car expecting to find loads of errors……….nothing which I found weird.


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If this is confirmed then I could get on board with that.


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If this is confirmed then I could get on board with that.


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The problem with this approach is do you risk eventually overloading the motor and thus knackering it ?

You can also hear the motor ‘fighting’ being restricted which sounds annoying


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The problem with this approach is do you risk eventually overloading the motor and thus knackering it ?

You can also hear the motor ‘fighting’ being restricted which sounds annoying


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No errors, then if it’s broken they have to fix the broken motors?


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I actually tested this theory…….

I managed to Jam the left side in the open position

Then went for a drive and then scanned the car expecting to find loads of errors……….nothing which I found weird.


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So the freaking ECU apparently accepts that a motor is clearly overloaded.

But we could be f***ed up if just disconnect the valves for warranty and potentially performance reasons…

giphy.gif
 
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Not possible I’m afraid.

The U shaped lugs slide over the top of 2 opposing pins on the flap swivel mechanism.

The centre spring is actually a loose fitting item and can be removed, I think it’s just for damping effect to stop any rattle.

e17e71c89ba74285bc44d5b86d7efd6f.jpg

972f2649e49bd06d082dcb711f0d1d2d.jpg



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Looking at your picture would I be correct in saying that the motor moves the valve within the confines of the lower slot with the yellow marked circle? If that is the case you just need to draw around that slot and the motors mounting holes, replicate it and attach it to the motor? the motor and ecu will be happy thinking all is in the correct position and quiet :)

Another way would be to bend the the valve's upright pins out of the way of the motor actuator and just bolt the motor back on?

Or maybe just attach the motor back on out of align so it could in theory just push the valve open but not close it? this would restrict the motors travel a little when wide open but the rest of the time it would be happy modulating without being attached to the valve?
 
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Looking at your picture would I be correct in saying that the motor moves the valve within the confines of the lower slot with the yellow marked circle? If that is the case you just need to draw around that slot and the motors mounting holes, replicate it and attach it to the motor? the motor and ecu will be happy thinking all is in the correct position and quiet :)

Another way would be to bend the the valve's upright pins out of the way of the motor actuator and just bolt the motor back on?
I also though about it, If what you mean is creating a “dummy” valve for the motor to sit on thus making it think everything is normal, allowing you to position the valves as you wish ,but the thing is how are you going to create such a mechanism as it involves a bracket, a spring, etc ? which I don’t think will be simple
 
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I also though about it, If what you mean is creating a “dummy” valve for the motor to sit on thus making it think everything is normal, allowing you to position the valves as you wish ,but the thing is how are you going to create such a mechanism as it involves a bracket, a spring, etc ? which I don’t think will be simple
I dont think it needs the spring, just the same slot on the one side (lower marked slot in picture) to allow the motor to move to what it thinks is open or closed

Like I said you may be able to just miss align the motor so its not attached
 

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