Help Please Engine Light - DPF Malfunction

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Hey All.

So woke up this morning ready to head to work, started the car and the engine light stayed on!? Drove the car to work and all seemed OK but still showing engine light.

Ran a VCDS Scan and came back with the following:

2 Faults Found:
5182 - Particulate Trap Bank 1
P2002 00 [096] - Efficiency Below Threshold
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
5162 - Diesel Particle Filter; Differential Pressure Sensor
P2453 00 [232] - Implausible Signal
MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

So would appear something is not right with my DPF or possibly a sensor. Never had any previous issues with the DPF on this or any other car.

So options are:

1. Go for a drive and perform a regeneration while driving
2. Perform an idle regeneration following instructions from Ross-Tech
3. Take it to my garage and let them inspect the DPF and/or G450 pressure sensor


Any help/guidance is appreciated.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks for you reply @Retroman

I think I will give a regen a go at lunchtime, hopefully this will confirm if it is indeed the sensor at fault.

Any idea's on the job needed to change the sensor, does it require the DPF to be removed?
 

Gazwould

Registered User
Yeah remove the dpf filter .

DPF-Removed.png
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Do you think a regen will resolve the issue or is this more than likely the sensor is faulty?

What are the chances the actual DPF is faulty?
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Blast down the motorway keeping revs between 2500 - 3000rpm for 15-20mins, no change.

Looks the like the sensor has gone poop :(

Anyone know the location of this sensor, google searches indicate it's at the top/back of the engine, easily accessible from under the hood. Trying to avoid a garage visit if i can do it myself.

Oh and will the new sensor need and 'adaption' or is it a case of swap over the sensors and job done?
 

777GE90

Registered User
Blast down the motorway keeping revs between 2500 - 3000rpm for 15-20mins, no change.

Looks the like the sensor has gone poop :(

Anyone know the location of this sensor, google searches indicate it's at the top/back of the engine, easily accessible from under the hood. Trying to avoid a garage visit if i can do it myself.

Oh and will the new sensor need and 'adaption' or is it a case of swap over the sensors and job done?

But what's to say the car was doing a regen when you were driving down the motorway? Mine only does a regen when the soot mass reaches above 22 grams or so and other regen conditions are met.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Very good point!

After reading further on the Ross-Tech website, apparently you can tell the car via VCDS to force a regen, I didn't see that bit.

Here is the Ross-Tech extract for regen while moving. You can also force a regen while the car is not moving

[Select]
[01 - Engine]

[Security Access - 16]

  • Enter the Code shown by VCDS next to Adaptation Enabling (e.g. Regeneration while Driving)
[Do It!]

[Adaptation - 10]

  • Select Channel for Regeneration while Driving
[Read]

  • Enter/Save 1 as new Value.
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]

So will have to give that a try tonight and see if it makes any difference
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
These cars do 1) A "passive regen" which involves no action from the ECU - it is done automatically by the high exhaust temperatures achieved on higher speed, longer runs. 2) If NO high speed, longer runs are done then my understanding (I'm not an expert :welcoming:) is that this sensor senses the DPF is around 45%+ full and communicates same to the ECU which initiates an "active regen" which involves shutting down the EGR system for a short while, raising idle speed and altering the injector activity to create more "burn off" heat. There is also the 3) "service regen" to which you refer via VCDS. I suspect your problem is a "dead sensor" and not necessarily that there is a problem with the DPF - denoted by the engine management system warning light and not by the specific DPF warning light.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Thank you for the explanation @Retroman, very useful information to have.

So the sensor looks to be the one in the picture and looks very easy to replace.

upload_2017-10-5_17-26-34.png


Think I will just go ahead and order a replacement Sensor and replace myself. Garage wanted £100+ to replace but looks like it will take about 5-10mins max.

Thanks for the input guys. As usual, very helpful people on this forum :)
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
With regard to "re-adaption" of the new sensor. Several forums say the new sensor needs to be "re-adapted" via VCDS whilst I have seen a thread saying that newer, post-2010 cars do it themselves automatically. I am mindful that many procedures claim that procedures cannot be done without a laptop and VCDS (a system not officially approved by VAG) such as changing the battery and fuel filter - I've done the latter with no issues whatsoever - but I do not know for sure about this sensor. By the sound of it you have VCDS
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Update this morning......the engine light has gone out and the fault has cleared!?!?!

Drove to the shops last night (2 miles) and by the time I had parked up, the light had gone out. Scanned it this morning and no fault.

Not sure if this will be an intermittent fault or not but will keep any eye on it. If it comes back, then I will just replace the sensor.
 

jdp1962

Grumpy Old Man
Update this morning......the engine light has gone out and the fault has cleared!?!?!

Drove to the shops last night (2 miles) and by the time I had parked up, the light had gone out. Scanned it this morning and no fault.

Not sure if this will be an intermittent fault or not but will keep any eye on it. If it comes back, then I will just replace the sensor.
If only life were always like this. :)
 

Zafi

Registered User
It will come on as you are driving to an airport and go into limp mode.... that's what life is really like ;)
 

dervdave

Registered User
While it appears to be operating correctly try using a fuel additive DPF cleaner on a regular basis and Shell V-Power.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Update. Light came back on again today while driving home from work!

Left my laptop at work, so not had a chance to scan and check but most likely the same error again.

Plan is too change the sensor and go from there.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Scanned the car just now and same error for the sensor as last time, so going to replace the G450 sensor and go from there.

Scan also picked up some new errors which I now need to investigate.:worried: (parking break error, climate control errors (component protection???) and can't communicate with the central electrics module for some unknown reason.

Tried clearing them but they all returned.

I know what I will be doing over the course of the next few days........ :(
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
That's what I thought, did the exact same thing when I had my A3 but no, door was definitely closed.

Scanned fine on Sunday but for some reason, today it can't communicate with the module???

The climate control errors are a bit wired as well, errors for all position flaps. I did remove the climate control the other day as I was removing my phone holder and need the controls out of the way but I did not power on the car until I had re-connected. Perhaps one of the connectors is not quite sat right. Will try removing and plugging back in, then give it a scan again. Oh and I get Component Protection error as well for the climate controls.??? Not sure why.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
It won't let me, VCDS keeps booting me out of the controller saying it cannot communicate.

Possibly because of the Component Protection error I am getting.......?
 

666markyboy

Registered User
try leaving the battery disconnected over night ? or disconnect battery and then short the 2 battery cables with a spanner is another trick I read somewhere... and that's the cables, not the terminals of the battery , because that would be bad :) ... shorting the 2 cables just helps drain all residual electricity stored in the cars components quicker than leaving it overnight
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Thanks for the suggestion @666markyboy

I have had the battery disconnected recently as I have just completed the install of my new steering wheel but obviously only for a short time. (5 - 10 mins)

I will try shorting the cables to drain the remaining power in the car. Don't worry, I have no plans to short the battery terminals lol Not that stupid! If no change, will try leaving it disconnected through the night and scan in the morning.
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Battery currently has 12.60v which to me seems a little low but I am not expert.

I thought they should be around 13.30v??

Worth sticking it on charge?
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Good thinking batman :)

Will get it on charge tonight and see how I get on in the morning.....fingers crossed
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
I'd go with the battery disconnect for a while. My son recently bought a newish, low mileage car and the stop/start wasn't working. Car had been on forecourt and the battery was about 60% strength. After a good charge the stop/start would still not come into play. After disconnecting the battery for around 30 mins the stop/start started working normally. Its just the mysterious magic of modern car electrics. :friendly wink:
 

JRock247

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Sorry for the lack up updates recently, been crazy busy and not had much time to work on the car.

DPF light has be coming on and off over the last few days. Brought a new sensor and will be fitting this over the weekend.

Car is currently on trickle charge as I type as I have noticed the battery dropping to around 12.4volts, which to me seems a little on the low side. I know some control modules in the car can be very sensitive to the correct voltage, so hoping all the little electrical gremlin I have been getting over the last few weeks are as a result of the low voltage in the battery.

Will update once fully charged and monitor the battery voltage over the next few days.
 

SonicNoob

Registered User
My wife’s had the same issue and it was just the sensor.
It was in range for 1 day then out of range and throwing a light back on the next.
It’s unlikely it’s the actual dpf, although if it can’t read the sensor correctly, then it can’t really perform its maintenance of the dpf on its own.
 
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