Engine/gearbox mount fitting guide.........

Dani_B19

Dani_B19

Audi-sports own special child.
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How hard is it to fit the engine and geabox mounts? Is it a on the drive jobbie or a 2 man car ramp job? Also anyone know the part numbers for the mount bolts as ive been told their stretch bolts and should really be replaced!
 
easy as pie mate, 20 mins per side to change tops really.

Remove air filter / MAF to access the gearbox side one, and the plastic cover on the loom trunking. Support gearbox on a jack, replace mount.

On the drivers side, remove the PAS res, and I moved the header tank over a bit to gain access, and again, support the engine on a jack.

Do one side at a time, dead easy.
 
Nick do i have to completely remove the pas res or just move it? Dont fancy removing it, also wheres best to support the engine when doing that side?

jason who westy?
 
Ooh yeah sorry mate, forgot he sorted you out with yours haha. Westy do you know what the torque settings are for the bolts?
 
Stop whoring me out for my services haha
 
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Haha ive just emailed you mate, hey everybody needs a good whore haha.
 
Dani_B19 said:
Ooh yeah sorry mate, forgot he sorted you out with yours haha. Westy do you know what the torque settings are for the bolts?
Click to expand...

Mate, I was pretty much drunk through most of my engine build and I was just reading the torque settings off Elsawin as we needed them so I can't really remember anything ;)

Hunt around on some torrent sites for Elsawin and get yourself a copy, it's a life saver.
 
audi upgrades
Dani_B19 said:
Nick do i have to completely remove the pas res or just move it? Dont fancy removing it, also wheres best to support the engine when doing that side?

jason who westy?
Click to expand...

Just undo the 5mm allen bolt that holds it in place and move it around to get access to the bolts mate. No fluid lost from anything. I put my jack on the bottom of the sump, on the corner, don't lift it, just take the weight so when you undo the engine mount it doesn't move.
 
thought I'd jump in on this one just a bit :) I changed my dogbone to a powerflex mount a while back to try and help with the apparent drivetrain "shuffle" during gear changes etc. It didn't help a huuuuuge amount, so I was wondering if I should change the engine mounts also? Would that help?

Dani; what engine mounts are you going for? Poly or OEM?

thanks guys
 
Just bought brand new engine mounts and going to fill them with liquid poly as recommened my prawn :). Should be epic.
 
Squirrelofdoom said:
thought I'd jump in on this one just a bit :) I changed my dogbone to a powerflex mount a while back to try and help with the apparent drivetrain "shuffle" during gear changes etc. It didn't help a huuuuuge amount, so I was wondering if I should change the engine mounts also? Would that help?

Dani; what engine mounts are you going for? Poly or OEM?

thanks guys
Click to expand...

Maybe your engine and gearbox mounts are badly worn then. The red dogbone bush was really noticeable on my car! I have seen some OEM mounts that can be easily moved by hand they were so bad. Both of mine were still fairly solid when I replaced them for brand new OEM mounts.
 
did you get genuine ones or just pattern ones Westy? I think I'm going to do what Danny is going, get some brand new standard pattern ones, and poly fill them. Considering Drilling out sections of the rubber too to get more Poly in there for added stiffness.
 
Cheers guys. Westy, when you say Engine & Gearbox mounts; do you mean just the dogbone and the two side engine mounts?

Also, color me confused about this whole buying new engine mounts and then filling them with poly....never heard of this done before. How do you go about doing this? Do you have to remove all the rubber?... :S
 
Think he got pattern parts. I qouted for OEM mounts but he nearly had a heart attack lol
 
Prawn said:
did you get genuine ones or just pattern ones Westy? I think I'm going to do what Danny is going, get some brand new standard pattern ones, and poly fill them. Considering Drilling out sections of the rubber too to get more Poly in there for added stiffness.
Click to expand...

Pattern ones from GSF I think.

Squirrelofdoom said:
Cheers guys. Westy, when you say Engine & Gearbox mounts; do you mean just the dogbone and the two side engine mounts?
Click to expand...

Yeah I meant the 2 side mounts being soft a ****.

Jason.s said:
Think he got pattern parts. I qouted for OEM mounts but he nearly had a heart attack lol
Click to expand...

Indeed the OEM mounts required a small mortgage.
 
Yeah, just had a look at OEM engine mounts myself :0

I just remembered, I didn't actually change the small bush in the dogbone mount, should probably do that before splashing on new engine mounts just in case. Just seen that Powerflex have this "black series" stuff now - anyone used them yet?
 
Haha that would be telling dave. Its from ebay but have found it for a fiver cheaper on the interent, do you guys want the link posting?
 
I'd be interested in the link , my engine can be moved by hand even when everything is bolted down :scared2:

Engine mounts are top of the to do list, but if tiger seal isn't going to cut it then this poly solution looks like a winner
 
whats shore 85 in the grand scheme of things? anyone know what shore the purple powerflex stuff is?

EDIT: their black series stuff is 95. purple is 80.

its good you found a part poly that lists the hardness. comparing it to the powerflex people can get a good idea of how it will feel.
I think 85 on a bush/mount as big as the engine mounts will be quite good.
When i first bought my powerflex bushes i was suprised how soft they were, i expected them to be near plastic.
 
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Shore 85 i believe is as strong as you want togo, i believe the ths ones are 80, im going for 85 but it does range from 60-85.
 
Just bought 1kg of the stuff from Dani's link, I'll post up some pics when it arrives..
 
Nice one mate, ill be doing the same tomorrow when i get paid. Just ordered all new bolts for the mounts via jase, thanks dude.
 
Ok I have filled my engine mount and refitted (havnt done the gearbox yet, not sure I want to!) but the vibration is pretty bad, I was wondering if anyone else has done this and had the same issue? I have just fitted a releness mani, downpipe and cat as well as rebuilding an agu cylinder head and reconditioned turbo all on my AMK S3, I'm hoping none of that is causing the vibrations!

Cheers for any input and here's a couple of pics.

Image
Image
 
Hows the car handle and drive with them mate? Whens the vibration noticeable?
 
Really bad cabin vibration and rattles from idle-1500rpm, I havnt really pushed the car at all I literally only started it yesterday after spending 6-7 weeks rebuilding everything. I'm wondering if the downpipe could be touching in the tunnel somewhere. And I have only done the engine mount so far, I did the red dog bone bush about a year ago.
 
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I have done both mounts now and the vibration has died down a bit its just bad on idle really, the other issue I have is that the downpipe now vibrates against the tunnel on coast down mainly so im going to replace them for pattern parts.

Just one query ECP list engine mounts left and right for APY but only right hand for an AMK are they all the same anyway?
 
J B said:
I have done both mounts now and the vibration has died down a bit its just bad on idle really, the other issue I have is that the downpipe now vibrates against the tunnel on coast down mainly so im going to replace them for pattern parts.
Click to expand...

How many miles have you done on them now out of interest?

I have clocked up about 500 and it is getting a lot better.....crazy transmission/gearbox sounds....very rally car style and so solid. I have got a lot more confidence in throwing it into corners now with the rest of my set up. Just need her lowered a tad and I think it will be perfect.

Here's my little write up -
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...npipe-results-replacing-my-engine-mounts.html

(sorry can't help you about the question you posted, as I have an APY lump :) )
 
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