EGR valve headache

nick4575

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Engine management light is on so took to local garage to get it read and they said problem was with the EGR valve and turned the light off saying if it comes back on to take back..
It did come back on after a few miles but i have trawled through countless posts and am wondering does it just need cleaning or would it benefit from the blank plate..
Any one help please..
 
Welcome to the forum Nick.

Remove & give it a clean 1st mate, dont blank of without considering having it programmed out or you'll get a mil light.
 
I've had this headache for 1 year now, and I've finally sorted it (hopefully) , to the cost of a new egr valve and a new anti shudder valve
 
Hi Nick,

problematic devices I'm afraid. Cleaning may very well work, depending on the fault. Getting it mapped out and blanked off will mean no further trouble/increased reliability.

Cheers, Rick
 
am removing my egr valve next week and fitting a allard kit instead egr valve has done about 8000 miles if you need 1 inbox me.

2.0 tdi bkd 140
 
Well, i rebuilt my EGR valve and now it's 10 times more sturdy than the original... letme expand on the story:
I wasn't getting any CEL but the engine block behind the EGR/ASV combo was all "splattered" with black oily sooty thingy, and the assembly was all gunky with the same nasty mix.
So we(my father and me) took to cleaning the entire intake, removed manifold, asv, EGR, the whole shebang...
So, cleaned intake manifold, ASV was a whole other issue let's leave that apart...
When we got to the EGR sure enough it shown streaks of a "leak" on the vacuum seal equalizing ports, midn you there wasn't any vac leak so the diaphragm was working ok.
on further inspection, turns out the shaft loses seal and allows the (high pressure) intake mix(that has oil gasses in it..) to blowby and that was getting my block all sprayed..
needless to say, this is a bad thing as it's leaking pressure which means that either the turbo has to work at a higher duty cycle to compensate or you get lost air which means engine will run rough/bad due to lean mixture...
So... no way i'm paying for a new EGR valve...
we took it apart, the seal cup was the hardest part as it's "punched" so we had to "cut" it, we discovered the ****ty seal in the shaft is a rubber oring which was completely eroded and the bushing also had plenty of play.
So we took it to a machine shop and made them do a sintered bronze bushing with far better tolerance, a special hi-temp seal and the cup was soldered with TIG (as it's stainles steel...), we closed again the diaphragm housing and that's it, a fixed, IMPROVED EGR valve that will outlast the engine itself.

We also bought new high temp orings(for the asv to egr to intake) as the original ones are flattened by the heat of the engine (bought them at an oring factory), greased with hi-temp lithium grease as well for better sealing.

Afgter all that, the engine ran less rough, fuel economy increased veeeeeeeeeery little(like 0.1~2 km per l)

It's not for the faint of heart and if you don't have a friendly machine shop/lathe guy you're toast...
 
As people have said the cheapest first step is to give it a clean and then clear the CEL. I did what tdi-man is planning and removed the EGR valve replacing it with the Allard pipe. It's a simple job, which I did just before my custom map. My car has done 90,000 miles without it and I'm very pleased.

My other car is also a turbo diesel, as soon as the manufacturer's warranty runs out, I will do the EGR delete.
 
I blanked mine off over a year ago and had it mapped out, I also fitted a breather catch can to stop any oily residues from entering the intake side of the engine, the can does see some crankcase pressure which is routed via a 1/2 inch hose down to the bottom of the chassis and means my turbo does not see any dirty oily stuff:)
 
the problem with EGR deleted is that a good delete kit is annoying to install(as a good kit would also block the EGR cooler with a blank thus needing to go behind hte engine -highly inaccesible- maybe even remove the egr cooler to put the blank in), they also require a remapping which you need to do on some specialty shop and aren't all that cheap to begin with...
 
has your catch can got a air filter on top ?
 
No, there wasn't the space to fit it, so stuck a hose on, will take a photo of it tomorrow for you
 

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