egr delete

David Whitemore

Registered User
Hi all new to the forums got my first audi, got it 2 weeks ago. its a 2006 a4 2.0 tdi 140 bhp avant.
Tomorrow i am having a remap and a egr delete. The egr delete kit came with 2 plates and 4 gaskets.
I was wondering where was the best place to put the second plate, the first will be at the inlet manifold.
And i was thinking of putting the second one where the egr comes directly off the turbo before the egr cooler.
What are your thoughts?
Loving the car.
 

jay1601

Registered User
Replace the oil pump/balance shaft for the modified version which uses a gear rather than a chain and also a bigger hex key

not a cheap replacement, think it’s around £800 with parts and labour

It’s the BLB engine which is in question

I had a BLB with just over 200k before getting rid of the car, was modified and remapped never had a issue luckily but it’s just luck of the draw if it fails or not
 

Bbflex

Registered User
Poor bloke has only asked how to fit his EGR delete, and instead of answering his question have just given him advice on something that may be completely pointless.


David, I’ve not fitted an EGR delete to my BRE engine, but the usual procedure is to fit the blanking plates at either end, so one on the EGR valve and one by the exhaust manifold or cooler.

With the hex key issue, yes there is a problem, yes it can result in loss of oil pressure and your oil pump to stop working causing engine fail, my car was at 140k miles, and the key looked to be nearly done, I just bought a new £5 key and swapped it in as I had the sump off for a rear main seal replacement.

Gaz will no doubt go on about the bad engineering of the system which I agree is the reason for the failures, and a new key won’t cure the underlying issues, but considering mine made 140k without blowing up I don’t think it’s always as bad as it’s made out to be, I’ll also find you a video of someone turning round the hex key and the difference in play just from a new hex key is massive, leading me to believe a new key was enough to keep you out of trouble for a while longer.

77C743F1-87A5-47E0-A3E9-DF48955BD9D7.jpeg


that’s my key after 140k, now it was working up until I took it out but in all honesty I don’t know how long it would of lasted.

edit: here is the video showing the difference between a worn and unworn side of the hex key inside the pump drive.
 

David Whitemore

Registered User
Thanks for your reply I figured it I would put it on the turbo side so as to completely blank it of. Was wondering if I could do away with the egr altogether. Bridge the cooling pipes and blank of the vacuum hose at the grill and of the egr coolerand remove it all together.
When you say you got a new key for £5 was that a dealer part or a Allen key cut to size?
I had it remapped yesterday and noticed a huge improvement as soon as I hit the high street where I would normally use 3rd I was in 4th at much lower revs.
I've all ways had land rovers all my life and 2 years ago I bought a citroen c5 mk3 2.0 hdi to save on fuel that thing was a bag of s***e great on fuel after the remap and dpf and egr delete but a new problem would come up every week. I was ready to switch to a petrol for the are far more simple than modern diesels. When I saw the audi. Far less electronics more old school. I thought for £1100
In great condition with new tyres and good service history and you can get to everything under the bonnet tons of room.
Only problem I'm having is whether to hard wire a blue tooth stereo or buy a kit does any one know if the single din facia adapter plate one A4 b7 is the same as a A4 b7?
I have always believed in servicing a diesel as often as you can afford, i do all mine every 4000 miles even if it's just an oil and filter change. So the Audi gets its first service tomorrow.
 

jay1601

Registered User
Yes you can fully remove the EGR cooler/pipes and valve.

use a bit of metal pipe to join the 2 coolant hoses together

when you get the car remapped just get the EGR system coded out, it’s what I’ve done with mine as I’ve got the Darkside EGR delete pipe
 

David Whitemore

Registered User
Yes you can fully remove the EGR cooler/pipes and valve.

use a bit of metal pipe to join the 2 coolant hoses together

when you get the car remapped just get the EGR system coded out, it’s what I’ve done with mine as I’ve got the Darkside EGR delete pipe
A4 already egr deleted and remapped yesterday.
Will make a u bend pipe up this week end and remove the egr.
Or maybe just try removing one of the cooling hoses and see if the other will bridge without any distortion.
 

Gazwould

Registered User
People don't understand how crucial and how fragile the oil pump drive is , because they don't understand...

Plus the oil pressure warning system is flawed as it doesn't warn unless above 2000rpm , so some have replaced what they think initially is an oil pressure switch and start and idle the car for some time and all that time is 0 oil pressure.

They drive up the road with 0 oil pressure hit 2000 and up comes the dreaded .

images.jpeg
 

Bbflex

Registered User
Didn’t your dad have the oil pump issue Gaz and the car was repaired and put back on the road?

I’ve never disagreed with what you say, I just think there is no need for the scaremongering.


David, The hex key was a genuine item I bought from VW, I didn’t go to Audi because the local VW dealership is easier to deal with.

4k servicing is a little excessive if I’m honest, I reckon 8k would be on the right side, my old Passat pd130 that was running a bv43 I reduced to 8k servicing from 10k and that made it too just under 200k with ease, but this engine does only hold 3.5L iirc which isn’t a lot, no harm in it I guess and if you have an oil extractor it can be done in 15 minutes from above.
 

Gazwould

Registered User
Yes a 100mm key and remanufactured modified balancer shaft keyway kit and put back on the road .

Towards the end of ownership iirc 105 - 110K it did consume engine oil .

The next owner somewhere down the line did have to replace the turbo , understandable as this would be first to suffer from low oil pressure .

Hense the damage was already done !


One of the main engineering points is as simple as and actually is...

71ize-ZwXLL._SX425_.jpg
 

David Whitemore

Registered User
4000 maybe a little excessive but I get my oils at cost from the supplier.
Another question I have is just below the oil cartridge housing is what looks like an oil cooler with a black plastic screw cap underneath. Is this just for draining the cooler or does it have another filter in there?
 

Bbflex

Registered User
As said Gaz I don’t disagree with you, it’s among many of the mess’s VAG have managed to create whilst building cars. That’s why I always laugh when someone states something along the lines of “VAG has done it that way because of all their R&D so they must be right”


David, your going to have one sparkly engine inside at least.

In my quest to cure my oil leak I’ve had all the oil filter housing and cooler apart and that is just a cap to undo the assembly for draining or replacing the cooler, it does have O-rings that can be replaced if you find a leak there but I think they are fairly well behaved.
 

David Whitemore

Registered User
That's good to here about the cooler. I had the under tray off while I was checking it over before the remap and it was as dry and clean underneath.
Only thing I did notice was a little oil on top of the engine cover. Found out the sound proofing under the bonnet was ever so slightly moist with oil.
Noticed the oil filler cap was loose so it must have been venting out of there I adjusted the prongs on the oil filler cap to tighten it. If that doesn't cure it I'll try new oil filler cap . It wasn't a puddle just as if you'd wiped it with an oily rag about 2" square patch on top of the engine cover.
 

Bbflex

Registered User
Yea hopefully tightening it up will stop the misting.

Mine was the worst oil leak I’ve ever had on a car, turned out to be the rear main seal housing that had been cracked by someone previous who had belted the connector for the crank sensor, I think whilst trying to seal the oil filter housing leak up with gasket goo that then found its way through most the engine and ended up in the oil pick up strainer, I had the lovely job of cleaning the oil filter housing and all inside, hence me taking it apart to clear the bits of gasket, and then picking the gasket goo out the strainer when I had the sump off to replace the rear main seal.

don’t you just love a proper bodge.
 

David Whitemore

Registered User
Well I've ordered a new oil filler cap . The rubber seal in the old one was quite hard.
The PSV valve fixed to the front of the valve cover has anyone tried servicing this instead of replacing the valve cover.
If mine has failed causing the oil to vaporise through the oil filler cap. There is no smoke blue or black coming from exhaust. So I would hope everything is ok with the head.
Bought a can of Mr Muscle to clean the hot side of the turbo this week.
Regarding the egr coolant delete I will cut the existing coolant pipes of the egr cooler and tig them to make a u bend and weld a bracket to the U bend to mount to one of the original egr threaded mounts.
 

Bbflex

Registered User
I’ve used mr muscle in the past, but this time I threw a load of wd40 in there whilst the downpipe was off, I wasn’t suffering any symptoms of stuck VNT really, but it felt a little sluggish, seemed to work ok, I unbolted the actuator and got it moving nice and freely before putting the car back together.

Easy thing with the BRE turbo is you can unbolt the plug for the EGT sensor to squirt the mr muscle.
 

MrSaetervik

Registered User
Just have the tuningcompany to disable the funtion of the EGR in the ECU, much better than a blending kit or a complete removal of the unit
 

Bbflex

Registered User
Just have the tuningcompany to disable the funtion of the EGR in the ECU, much better than a blending kit or a complete removal of the unit

as long as the EGR is ok in the first place, if it’s not closed properly then no amount of coding will help.

to be fair though mine had coked itself shut when I pulled it off :tearsofjoy:
 

tr7

Registered User
Having replaced an EGR before and saw inside the plastic gears. Wouldn't it be simpler to remove the centre plastic gear and let the car think it's engaging the EGR and leaving everything else in place?
 

Bbflex

Registered User
Having replaced an EGR before and saw inside the plastic gears. Wouldn't it be simpler to remove the centre plastic gear and let the car think it's engaging the EGR and leaving everything else in place?

You should still get a MIL, as the ecu is looking for the correct maf readings with a working EGR.

This is a car that’s had the EGR mapped out.

664E86AD-1724-4A35-85C5-559488F74884.jpeg
 
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Pie-eyedpiper

Registered User
I wasn't having any trouble with my EGR but removed it before I did.
I fitted a delete pipe and completely removed the cooler also and joined the coolant pipes.
As previously mentioned the hole into the turbo (where the blanking cap fits) is perfect for injecting the Mr Muscle.
I've had a remap done and my dash EGR warning light mapped out.

Can the oil pump hex drive shaft be changed for a 100 mm one with the engine in the car and just by removing the sump?
 
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