ECU Repair or Replacement?

Monzta

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My local garage has just dropped my car back to me after having had a look at my starting/stalling issue. I thought it was a break in the loom near the ECU but they're convinced the loom is good and that the problem lies with the ECU. They noticed that when the car was running and they tapped on the ECU housing the engine would stutter and/or stall. They think there's probably a dry solder in there that's causing the problem.

They're not set up for that sort of repair but said I could do any one of three things:

1. Find someone local who specialises in very fine repairs to PCBs (cheapest option)
2. Send it off to one of those companies like BBA Reman for professional repair (expensive option)
3. Buy a secondhand ECU from ebay and have it reprogrammed to my car

ECUs are cheap on ebay but I have no idea how to go about reprogramming it. I have VCDS-Lite but doubt it's man enough for the job.

Has anyone got any advice for which direction I should go with this?
 
What engine do you have? I have a spare ECU for BFB engine.

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BBA Reman i would go for. Have you spoken to them for a quote?

I'm waiting for a quote from them.

I did ask for a quote from another company a bit nearer to me and they said it would be a minimum of £130 plus VAT plus postage.

In the meantime I've dropped the ECU to a local electrical repair company who are going to look at it under a microscope and re-solder where necessary. Hopefully it'll be ready in the morning.

I don't want to commit too much money to an ECU just yet as I'm still not 100% certain that it's not the wiring that's the problem.
 
It was some dry solders in the ECU where the loom plugs in. All of them redone for the princely sum of £10 and the car now runs for the first time in six weeks.
 
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Fingers crossed for you mate! Makes me wonder how much vibration the ECU goes through. Easier than changing the loom though!
 
I really did not relish the idea of swapping out the loom at all. Plus the only compatible loom I could find was in Moscow of all places.
 
It was some dry solders in the ECU where the loom plugs in. All of them redone for the princely sum of £10 and the car now runs for the first time in six weeks.

Hi, sorry to barge in on this thread, my 2004 A4 1.9tdi is having boost issues. Unplugged the MAF sensor and boost returned temporarily, but then still having limp mode with the MAF sensor both unplugged and plugged. It's currently in with local machanic, who has tried new MAF, tested the turbo actuator, turbo itself, N75 boost pressure sensor (can't remember what else he said), he's happy they're not the cause, his last port of call is a new MAP sensor which is arriving tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed .

He said failing that he's stumped and it could possibly be the ECU, should this be the case, would you mind providing the name of the company who looked at your ECU as I'm not aware of any near me (Doncaster) that offer this kind of service. Wouldn't know where to even look tbh.

Hopefully the new MAP sensor sorts it out,

Thanks in advance.
Nath
 
Sounds like you're having a real nightmare there Nath. The place that sorted my ECU is just a little stereo repair shop on the high street, no specialism in ECUs, they just do delicate soldering, fitting new phone screens etc. You should have places that can do much the same near you.
 
Cheers for your reply, just finished nights and will hopefully be waking up to good news.

If the MAP sensor doesn't fix it I'll have to at least try having the ECU ripped out and looked at by someone similar to the guys who did yours. It's annoying me because the car's been great for the past 3 years I've owned it, only asking for new tyres and a battery. (Wishbone too after hitting a kerb but that was my heavy foot's fault )

Was the ECU a b*****d to get out? Saw a video of a guys unplugging one set of wires and using an angle grinder to get the other wires out. Maybe the way they're connected differs from model/engine type etc..... Probably a worse nightmare than the grinder knowing the luck I'm having !!
 
Fingers crossed it's good news Nath.

If it is the ECU that's the problem then getting it out is easy enough but like you say, it's angle grinding the two bolts to get it out of the box that's the hassle.

Though I got mine fixed I bought an upgraded ECU from these guys ... https://www.goingslow.co.uk/home

I've not fitted it yet as I want to make sure my CVT gearbox can take the extra power and torque. Plus no more immobiliser problems and paying out to have new transponder chips programmed. Only cost me £68 so worth giving it a go. Their feedback on ebay is excellent too.
 
Hi, sorry to barge in on this thread, my 2004 A4 1.9tdi is having boost issues. Unplugged the MAF sensor and boost returned temporarily, but then still having limp mode with the MAF sensor both unplugged and plugged. It's currently in with local machanic, who has tried new MAF, tested the turbo actuator, turbo itself, N75 boost pressure sensor (can't remember what else he said), he's happy they're not the cause, his last port of call is a new MAP sensor which is arriving tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed .

He said failing that he's stumped and it could possibly be the ECU, should this be the case, would you mind providing the name of the company who looked at your ECU as I'm not aware of any near me (Doncaster) that offer this kind of service. Wouldn't know where to even look tbh.

Hopefully the new MAP sensor sorts it out,

Thanks in advance.
Nath

To me it sounds like your chasing the problem to be honest. Have you got any data logs from your MAF sensor?
 
To me it sounds like your chasing the problem to be honest. Have you got any data logs from your MAF sensor?

Hi, my mechanic had it on the computer, can vaguely remember him saying several, (MAF, Crankshaft sensor, engine mount sensor) wouldn't know exactly without asking him for it. Maybe not a good idea over Xmas, he's got a autoelectrician mate who's hopefully able to investigate further in the new year. After researching symptoms I'm hoping there's just a bad wire or fuse gone somewhere.

A month or so back, my 'lights still on' warning buzzer when you open door with the keys out of ignition stopped working, could this have anything to do with my issues? Seems unlikely I know, but I've heard small electrical faults can cause bigger problems elsewhere.
 
The lights on buzzer is probably just the door latch sensor. Does your interior light come on when you open the door?

With boost loss its usually mechanical or a sensor. Buying a cheap copy of vagcom off ebay may help you, and you could give your mechinic a bit more info.
 
Yeah the interior light comes on, as does the on the display on dash indicating which door. Mechanic has vagcom and I guess he knows his way round it well, he's been at the game 30 odd years, he had it out on a run whilst testing for faults via vagcom, he's replaced MAP, and MAF, tested for vacuum leaks, pressure tested N75 valve, actuator is fine, turbo itself seems fine with no clogged up or sticky vanes and he's tested continuity on certain sensors. It's beginning to f**k me right off.
Maybe it's loan time for adifferent car but then I could be borrowing money for another bag of ***** which needs more spending on it.
For £40 I can take it to a reputable diagnostics firm and hopefully have my issue addressed and then take it from there to see if it's viable money-wise. They specialise in electronics and remaps etc, it could be the existing map has had a hissy fit. Or the ECU is fried. Piece of German scrap.
 

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