Does stuck turbo actuator require a new turbo ?

Audicfc

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EPC light came on 4-5 weeks ago every few days but hasn’t came on again in last 4 weeks, i got it scanned and it came back codes relating to the turbo actuator and garage said it will need a full new turbo as there is no guarantee just fixing the actuator will solve the problem so may aswell fit new turbo while the old turbo is out is this correct ?
And if the EPC light hasn’t came on in last few weeks and car feels normal to drive does this mean the problem has gone away ? Or does the actuator only work sometimes before it fails completely ?
 
What engine ?
In my experience on my old golf I managed to get a new actuator and it worked properly for another 70k before some clown wrote it off. Took a little bit of work to get it calibrated. Other option is get your turbo rebuilt/refurbished. Would be a lot cheaper than new turbo.
also I don’t think VAG sells the actuator, they just sell a new turbo with actuator.
 
Its an a3 1.8tsfi, really don’t want to pay the price for a new turbo but would rather get it done right the 1st time aswell so not sure what to do
 
Seen on a few different vw/audi forums that some say you can replace just the actuator and other says you need to replace the full turbo
 
I think it’s easier just replacing the whole lot as there’s a bit of adjustment on the actuator so you don’t overboost or under boost. New turbo will be calibrated/adjusted properly out the box. If it requires turbo removal to adjust then that could get costly labour wise.
I’m not too familiar with the turbos on these newer engines so can’t really comment.
quick google search says you can get the actuator separate from the turbo.
 
EPC light came on 4-5 weeks ago every few days but hasn’t came on again in last 4 weeks, i got it scanned and it came back codes relating to the turbo actuator and garage said it will need a full new turbo as there is no guarantee just fixing the actuator will solve the problem so may aswell fit new turbo while the old turbo is out is this correct ?
And if the EPC light hasn’t came on in last few weeks and car feels normal to drive does this mean the problem has gone away ? Or does the actuator only work sometimes before it fails completely ?
Hello! In fact, you can simply adjust the actuator so that it is in the 3.56V range. It makes sense to think about big turbo is20 or is38)
 
Surely if it was that simple then the garage could have done that when the car was with them ?

Was thinking about bigger turbo as could be doing with more power as the 1.8 is quite a lazy engine sometimes but then need to pay for remap then possibly a new clutch too with the extra power and don’t want to spend that much on it, not sure you can get upgraded clutch for the a3 1.8 aswell but could be wrong
 
Surely if it was that simple then the garage could have done that when the car was with them ?

Was thinking about bigger turbo as could be doing with more power as the 1.8 is quite a lazy engine sometimes but then need to pay for remap then possibly a new clutch too with the extra power and don’t want to spend that much on it, not sure you can get upgraded clutch for the a3 1.8 aswell but could be wrong
According to service documents, the norm on the actuator is 3.5-3.55V
If we diagnose a voltage above this value - for example, 3.8V, 4.2V, adjustment is needed. In this case, the turbine swells later than expected.

In 90% of cases, on used cars, the voltage is increased
To adjust we need:
— obd whistle supporting coding.
— phone with the installed program.
- a 10mm wrench for the lock nut and a 5-5.5mm wrench for the stem itself (or curved pliers). WD40
— cold engine. Adjustment must be made on a cold engine.

The main thing to remember is that we check the voltage with the ignition on, and adjust it with the ignition off.

Best choice for 1.8 MT - IS20 turbo.
 
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It is about 59,000 miles and 8 years old

Hmm tricky one. The turbo should have a lot of life left in it. But if it was me and I was planning on keeping the car for some time I'd probably go for a recon turbo. Also, If I was thinking about modding the car anyway I would probably take the opportunity to put in an uprated turbo and get it remapped too. Nothing silly but something to give it a bit more oomph. Dont forget the insurance element. (Sorry if I'm not helping and giving you bad thoughts)
 
Yeah i really don’t know what to do as the epc light came on again today but just restarted engine and it went away

does anyone know if a new is12 turbo would stop the metallic rustle noise i get at around 1500-2000 rpm that some of the s3’s has aswell ? And would a new is12 just be the exact same turbo i have or has it been updated since the 2014 one i have to stop such problems with the actuator and the metallic rustle noise low down in the revs ?