DIY Oil change - A3 8V 2.0 TDI 150ps (vag ea228 engine)

Shortyian

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DIY Oil change - A3 8V 2.0 TDI 150ps (vag ea228 engine)

Just completed my first DIY oil change on my 2.0 TDI sportback. All for the grand sum of..... Just £44! I gave the car a full service so a few costs extra than above for more filters etc but will also make a separate thread about the fuel filter ( The air & pollen filter are really straight forward to change so no need to show these )

Very hard to find videos / pics on oil changes for this engine so far so thought i would document to help others.... attempt at your own risk obviously!

Before anyone starts with keeping full audi service history etc i'm planning to keep the car long long term & i keep all the receipts as proof / document my own service history in service book.

Soooo - first of thank you to the genius at VAG who designed the oil filter where they did! It is accessed underneath the front part of the engine upside down behind the radiator / fan covered by a cooling pipe / various electrical wires & connections! .... see the photo's - I'm sure they are making things more difficult on purpose to put you off doing it yourself!

It isn't too hard if your handy - just a bit fiddly. An extra pair of hands helps.

IMG 7808

IMG 7806

Capacity is 4.7L (confirmed by dealers)

5L Mobil1 ESP 5W30 (meets vw504/507) on offer on Amazon at present

Oil filter with new seals

19mm socket for main drain plug torque is 30nm

32mm socket oil filter cap / cover torque is 25nm

Small socket for oil filter drain plug (sorry forgot which one but just a normal size which any socket set would have) torque is 5nm

Torx set for undertray, bungee cord or string, oil pan, large bottle etc.....

Access is tight so breaker bar / torque wrench with long extension is handy. My car ramps are approx 8inch high and was enough to get access.

Removal of under tray is a mix of torx screws & bolts (torx socket is set handy)

Once tray out of the way - To access oil filter you need to disconnect an electrical sensor thats in the way. A little grey tab slides out which will the allow you to disconnect. I wrapped the end to avoid connections getting dirty or oil on them. The electrical wires are bundled together and these are clipped in two places. Disconnect clips & i used bungee cord to lift up & out way of filter. Large coolant pipe pushes away to the side & then the oil filter is now clear to get at.

IMG 7809

The oil filter has its own little drain plug - shown in photo (green bottle) is amount of oil drained out from filter housing. I found using a pop bottle with neck cut off helps to catch oil & avoid it dripping on various parts / you & the ground! Once drained i reinserted oil filter drain plug & removed main filter housing. Seals replaced on filter housing & drain plug housing, adding a little oil to new seals, new filter inserted, torqued & then refitted in reverse of above process.

IMG 7807

Main drain plug removed / oil drained into oil tray. Plug replaced & torqued. Some people replace with brand new plug & washer but i think this is overkill - if the metal nut & metal washer are in good condition there is need to replace in my opinion. Fresh oil added, just over 4 litres added in normal manner using funnel from top of engine. Double checked for any leaks, replaced underside engine cover tray, & return car to level, check dipstick (just over minimum) ran engine for a few minutes / let sit - checked oil level & slowly add remaining oil up to max on dipstick. Reset oil change date on MMI.

Dont think i forgot any steps, sorry if i did but - All sorted ! Happy days & a pretty penny saved for me!
 
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IMG 7779
Forgot to add this - from a vw golf but exactly the same ea228 engine IMG 7779
 
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So another year has been and gone and I've just carried out my full service again. Going by Audi's recommended service intervals on filters etc i didn't really need to do anything other than an oil change but for the small cost of new filters i give the car a full service once a year regardless of mileage (only do around 6-8k per year at present) Love the feeling after a fresh service - car always feels that bit more punchy :chuncky:
 
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So another year has been and gone and I've just carried out my full service again. Going by Audi's recommended service intervals on filters etc i didn't really need to do anything other than an oil change but for the small cost of new filters i give the car a full service once a year regardless of mileage (only do around 6-8k per year at present) Love the feeling after a fresh service - car always feels that bit more punchy :chuncky:

Another year has flown over and just completed full DIY service saving a fortune over dealer price & still saving a decent wedge over a normal garage. Has anyone else attempted this given that our PFL A3 8V’s are well past 3 year warranty stage now? Thought more people may have attempted but no threads that i’ve seen. Well worth doing in my opinion if your planning on keeping your car long term. I keep all the parts receipts as proof in case i ever do sell in the future but not thinking about that for years and years yet.

I made custom ramps made from load bearing graded beams which are ideal for lower s-lines as normal ramps too steep unless you get extensions but they can cost quite a bit - these cost me 20 quid to make with some long screws to pin together ( axel stands underneath just in case but these are solid ramps and weigh a hefty amount so solid as a rock)

Quick clean in and out and she’s had a little treat inside and out!

Timing belt & is MOT is due next month so all set for that. £460 quoted from Presitge German Motors in South Shields for Timing Belt & Water pump using genuine parts. Expensive but audi have quoted me anywhere from £650-750 for that depending on when i called to enquire - madness!


13D0CCE4 88C4 493A B445 8386F9309F52

8812B82D 86F6 4791 97AC E628B308E57B
 
I’ve got one of these pumps for sucking out the oil, best £12.99 I’ve spent at Lidl.

73AC1D6D 4976 440A A985 A1318A9829D2
 
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DIY Oil change - A3 8V 2.0 TDI 150ps (vag ea228 engine) i done mine today it took all 5 lt of oil to max on dipstick ??

Just completed my first DIY oil change on my 2.0 TDI sportback. All for the grand sum of..... Just £44! I gave the car a full service so a few costs extra than above for more filters etc but will also make a separate thread about the fuel filter ( The air & pollen filter are really straight forward to change so no need to show these )

Very hard to find videos / pics on oil changes for this engine so far so thought i would document to help others.... attempt at your own risk obviously!

Before anyone starts with keeping full audi service history etc i'm planning to keep the car long long term & i keep all the receipts as proof / document my own service history in service book.

Soooo - first of thank you to the genius at VAG who designed the oil filter where they did! It is accessed underneath the front part of the engine upside down behind the radiator / fan covered by a cooling pipe / various electrical wires & connections! .... see the photo's - I'm sure they are making things more difficult on purpose to put you off doing it yourself!

It isn't too hard if your handy - just a bit fiddly. An extra pair of hands helps.

View attachment 120672

View attachment 120673

Capacity is 4.7L (confirmed by dealers)

5L Mobil1 ESP 5W30 (meets vw504/507) on offer on Amazon at present

Oil filter with new seals

19mm socket for main drain plug torque is 30nm

32mm socket oil filter cap / cover torque is 25nm

Small socket for oil filter drain plug (sorry forgot which one but just a normal size which any socket set would have) torque is 5nm

Torx set for undertray, bungee cord or string, oil pan, large bottle etc.....

Access is tight so breaker bar / torque wrench with long extension is handy. My car ramps are approx 8inch high and was enough to get access.

Removal of under tray is a mix of torx screws & bolts (torx socket is set handy)

Once tray out of the way - To access oil filter you need to disconnect an electrical sensor thats in the way. A little grey tab slides out which will the allow you to disconnect. I wrapped the end to avoid connections getting dirty or oil on them. The electrical wires are bundled together and these are clipped in two places. Disconnect clips & i used bungee cord to lift up & out way of filter. Large coolant pipe pushes away to the side & then the oil filter is now clear to get at.

View attachment 120674

The oil filter has its own little drain plug - shown in photo (green bottle) is amount of oil drained out from filter housing. I found using a pop bottle with neck cut off helps to catch oil & avoid it dripping on various parts / you & the ground! Once drained i reinserted oil filter drain plug & removed main filter housing. Seals replaced on filter housing & drain plug housing, adding a little oil to new seals, new filter inserted, torqued & then refitted in reverse of above process.

View attachment 120675

Main drain plug removed / oil drained into oil tray. Plug replaced & torqued. Some people replace with brand new plug & washer but i think this is overkill - if the metal nut & metal washer are in good condition there is need to replace in my opinion. Fresh oil added, just over 4 litres added in normal manner using funnel from top of engine. Double checked for any leaks, replaced underside engine cover tray, & return car to level, check dipstick (just over minimum) ran engine for a few minutes / let sit - checked oil level & slowly add remaining oil up to max on dipstick. Reset oil change date on MMI.

Dont think i forgot any steps, sorry if i did but - All sorted ! Happy days & a pretty penny saved for me!
 
Done oil change on mine today it took 5lt of oil in total to get to max on dipstick ??
 
I really need to learn this. I know it’s simplish, I just need to buy ramps and have someone just show me or be there with me one time and then I’ll be able to do this al the time, and same with brake discs and pads
 
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I really need to learn this. I know it’s simplish, I just need to buy ramps and have someone just show me or be there with me one time and then I’ll be able to do this al the time, and same with brake discs and pads

We all need to start somewhere. When you have done it once, preferably with some guidance you will be much more confident next time and it's easier as you go on and get more experience. Watch some youtube videos and make sure you have the right tools and parts before you start. At least you know things are done right and what parts were used.
 
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We all need to start somewhere. When you have done it once, preferably with some guidance you will be much more confident next time and it's easier as you go on and get more experience. Watch some youtube videos and make sure you have the right tools and parts before you start. At least you know things are done right and what parts were used.
That’s the plan but as for finding videos of the 1.5 tfsi service/oil change is proving to be a challenge to say the least. I’ve got a few things in my amazon basket already , ramps oil extractor and oil pan. I have the rest at home just need a service kit. Nothing better than doing the job your self and saving. A few quid aswell. I’m keen to learn
 
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