Diy inlet valve cleaning
- Thread starter R0cket
- Start date
TBH i wouldn't think its worth it. Access is so limited that you are only going to get a proportion of it and as someone who has cleaned up more valves than i care to remember you are really going to struggle to chip away at the burnt on coke manually, its absolutely rock hard to the extent that i have in the past removed valves and turned them in the lathe to get the crud off.
Go for a vapour type clean, its cheap, takes half an hour and will benefit the valve seats faces and exhaust ports etc as well as the tops of the pistons. I did mine that way about 20k miles ago and it put the orange engine light out that had baffled Audi themselves for 18 months and half a dozen visits before that.
Go for a vapour type clean, its cheap, takes half an hour and will benefit the valve seats faces and exhaust ports etc as well as the tops of the pistons. I did mine that way about 20k miles ago and it put the orange engine light out that had baffled Audi themselves for 18 months and half a dozen visits before that.
I plan to use CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner the next time I'm ready for an oil change. It's got pretty decent reviews and it's basically techron (PEA) formulated for the intake so should be safe.
I’m almost starting to think I should take the head off and replace the valve stem seals while I’m at it. It’s done 104k now. Must be easier to clean the valves then.
I’d already committed to a cambelt which it’s sorn and stripped down to do the inlet valves as well as a sump clean and oil pickup replacement
I’d already committed to a cambelt which it’s sorn and stripped down to do the inlet valves as well as a sump clean and oil pickup replacement
Paddy, I know a breaker that stripped a vehicle that had done a few hundred miles since being terra cleaned & when he opened it up it was still coked up. You can see from the before and after pics I've posted of a proper carbon clean
Coked up valves have associated problems like rough idle, smoking, poor fuel consumption. whatever remady you use will either fix the problem or not regardless of what the parts look like after.
I had an engine management light come on at 50k miles. (rich at idle) and it was smoking on hard acceleration,j It went in to a main dealer 3 times and an indi 4 times over the next 2 years. No one could put the light out for more than 120 miles. It had countless parts from solenoid valves to charcoal filters /canisters, plugs/MAF and so on and eventually i was talking to guy with and independent Mini dealership and he said bring it in to me and i will hydro clean it, apparently Minis are really bad for this .
Took it in, the light went out, been out for 20k miles now, rolling road showed 381bhp. tick over is such that you might think it had stalled its so smooth and it stopped smoking.
Now people can say its a waste of time and money but it worked for me.
I had an engine management light come on at 50k miles. (rich at idle) and it was smoking on hard acceleration,j It went in to a main dealer 3 times and an indi 4 times over the next 2 years. No one could put the light out for more than 120 miles. It had countless parts from solenoid valves to charcoal filters /canisters, plugs/MAF and so on and eventually i was talking to guy with and independent Mini dealership and he said bring it in to me and i will hydro clean it, apparently Minis are really bad for this .
Took it in, the light went out, been out for 20k miles now, rolling road showed 381bhp. tick over is such that you might think it had stalled its so smooth and it stopped smoking.
Now people can say its a waste of time and money but it worked for me.
I had mine carbon cleaned easily a year ago by a sponsor on here and once I picked car up what a difference I noticed especially in the smoothness off the Engine
