Shortyian
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DIY Fuel Filter - A3 8V 2.0 TDI 150ps (vag ea228 engine)
Just changed Fuel filter on my 2.0 TDI Sportback.
It's not too hard to find videos / pics on fuel filter changes but i thought i would document to help others as only a few specific to A3 8v... attempt at your own risk obviously!
Before anyone mentions about keeping full audi service history etc i'm planning to keep the car long long term & i keep all the receipts as proof / document my own service history in service book.
My car has 18k on the clock but is a 2013 and has never had this filter changed. I think Audi state 60k but i think this is quite a long time personally & at nearly 4years old the filter so i decide to change it.
Torx driver is all you really need for this change (think it was T20 or T25 - sorry i didnt make a note)
Bungee cord / string
New filter
Fresh diesel / jerry can
Turkey baster or syringe
Small clamp
I wrapped the filter housing in an old towel to avoid any diesel spilling.
I pre soaked the new filter in fresh diesel inside a cleaned out / dry large pop bottle.
I clamped the middle fuel line to minimise diesel draining from fuel line to engine.
The torx bolts on the top are only 5nm torque so not very tight at all. Once these are removed gently pull up on top cap - it should just pull up no need to pry open. Use bungee cord or string to hold it back. The filter housing should be full to the brim with diesel (this is how it should look once new filter added & ready to close back up)
Slowly lift out old filter into a container or sealed bag ( as will leak diesel) check bottom of canister - it should be relatively clean - you can drain if you wish or remove any bits with turkey baster or syringe. As you can see from photo this is what it looks like after 18k miles.
Insert new pre soaked filter into housing. You may need to either remove a bit of diesel if too full or top up with fresh diesel. If topping up with fresh diesel only pour in the sides (not the centre hole as this will fill up itself through filter - this should only be filtered diesel in there as goes direct to engine from there)
Once topped up to the brim apply a little diesel to rubber seal & re attach cover with screw bolts & removed clamp from middle fuel line.
A lot of people claim you need VCDS / VAGCOM Etc to prime fuel system / avoid running pump dry etc but i didn't use it doing this method - if you just chuck in bran new filter bone dry / don't top up with diesel then you will need to prime / bleed air from system. The way i did it there will only be a tiny amount of air left as housing full of diesel / fuel line clamped.
Car started first turn of the key without any hesitation what so ever - allow to idle for a few minutes & thats job done.....i don't know if it's just in my head but the car definitely feels like it responds to acceleration a little quicker than it used to!
Just changed Fuel filter on my 2.0 TDI Sportback.
It's not too hard to find videos / pics on fuel filter changes but i thought i would document to help others as only a few specific to A3 8v... attempt at your own risk obviously!
Before anyone mentions about keeping full audi service history etc i'm planning to keep the car long long term & i keep all the receipts as proof / document my own service history in service book.
My car has 18k on the clock but is a 2013 and has never had this filter changed. I think Audi state 60k but i think this is quite a long time personally & at nearly 4years old the filter so i decide to change it.
Torx driver is all you really need for this change (think it was T20 or T25 - sorry i didnt make a note)
Bungee cord / string
New filter
Fresh diesel / jerry can
Turkey baster or syringe
Small clamp
I wrapped the filter housing in an old towel to avoid any diesel spilling.
I pre soaked the new filter in fresh diesel inside a cleaned out / dry large pop bottle.
I clamped the middle fuel line to minimise diesel draining from fuel line to engine.
The torx bolts on the top are only 5nm torque so not very tight at all. Once these are removed gently pull up on top cap - it should just pull up no need to pry open. Use bungee cord or string to hold it back. The filter housing should be full to the brim with diesel (this is how it should look once new filter added & ready to close back up)
Slowly lift out old filter into a container or sealed bag ( as will leak diesel) check bottom of canister - it should be relatively clean - you can drain if you wish or remove any bits with turkey baster or syringe. As you can see from photo this is what it looks like after 18k miles.
Insert new pre soaked filter into housing. You may need to either remove a bit of diesel if too full or top up with fresh diesel. If topping up with fresh diesel only pour in the sides (not the centre hole as this will fill up itself through filter - this should only be filtered diesel in there as goes direct to engine from there)
Once topped up to the brim apply a little diesel to rubber seal & re attach cover with screw bolts & removed clamp from middle fuel line.
A lot of people claim you need VCDS / VAGCOM Etc to prime fuel system / avoid running pump dry etc but i didn't use it doing this method - if you just chuck in bran new filter bone dry / don't top up with diesel then you will need to prime / bleed air from system. The way i did it there will only be a tiny amount of air left as housing full of diesel / fuel line clamped.
Car started first turn of the key without any hesitation what so ever - allow to idle for a few minutes & thats job done.....i don't know if it's just in my head but the car definitely feels like it responds to acceleration a little quicker than it used to!
